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About 1farmer

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    Bigmouth Quillback

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  1. Bill were you using the long rod?
  2. Are you trying to say that you don't think those fish don't know that winter is not over?
  3. Ham, congratulations on possibly a smallmouth of a lifetime. 22 inches or not due to the thickness at the top of the fishes back it had to be pushing 6lb. In 2011 I caught one of three that we caught that day that were between 21 1/4 and 22 inches. The weights were 4.92, 5.76 and 6.05 and basically the only difference in them was how far up on the back the thickness started.I'm proud to say mine was the smallest, so therefore I can still hunt for a 5lb. smallmouth the other two can't. Another thing to be proud of, you caught a 5lb. plus stream smallmouth, which doesn't happen very often.
  4. 1farmer

    Our Little Town

    Prayers from down this way.
  5. With today's hooks, lines, rods, and reels this is all you need to do in most instances. I try to do this fishing a jig and at times have excellent results. My problem is I started fishing over 50 years ago. Back then we had broomsticks for worm rods made of fiberglass, we rigged our worms to be weedless by putting the hook inside the worm, not skin hooking it. When we felt a bite it went like this: drop the rod, watch the line to see if he still had it, when line moved rare back on that broomstick like you were trying to move a mountain and hoist the fish into boat. Old habits are hard to break and I sometimes forget to do it like it should be done.
  6. Don't say you probably never will we all have fate look our way at times. In February 1976 I caught a 4lb. 9oz. white bass which would have been an Arkansas state record. Didn't realize this till later so was no official verification, even though it was weighed on certified scales. If I'm not mistaken a 4lb. 15oz. was caught out of bull shoals in either May or June that same year.
  7. I have used braid ,fluorocarbon, and mono. The last eight to 10 years it has been mostly fluorocarbon on my spinning reels. I did use nanofil for crappie fishing 4 year ago and fell in love with it for that application. Tried it later that year throwing a shaky head and subsequently went back to the fluorocarbon, my reason for going to fluorocarbon was where I was fishing. This was around jetty rock or rip rap, which fluorocarbon seems to hold up better. The other drawback to braid for me is I don't like it in strong wind. Fluorocarbon has to be managed. Fish with it 3 or 4 times a month, keep it stretched with an occasional drag behind the boat and it will be fine for up to 6 months for me. If I spool it up and leave in rod locker without using much I will usually change the next time I try to use it. I do not use mono on spinning anymore but do know that it will outlast fluorocarbon when only used occasionally. With this being said, Bo has talked me, with his results, into going back to braid. Age has taken my sense of feel from me and the eyes aren't as sharp as they used to be making the fluorocarbon hard to see, so now I'm going to try to train myself to become a line watcher again.
  8. Talked to the winners of a couple of tournaments at that northeast Oklahoma lake with all the smallmouths. They reported catching there fish, which were all largemouths , on a-rigs fished in water 8 ft. or less with the two biggest coming from 3 to 4 foot water. They won saturday by just over 6 lbs. and sunday by over 7 lbs. Said water temp was 43 degree. This is something you folks up there might want to check into. They were touching bottom with the a-rig.
  9. I need to correct myself, 4 hard pulls over the same distance will drive the bait just as deep. Reeling and jerking over the same amount of time will get the bait deeper but at a greater distance traveled.
  10. I was not questioning, as I do this very same thing myself. I also know that 4 hard pulls will drive the bait just as deep as reeling and jerking as I have seen in cement pond. What I was trying to explain was the way jerking and reeling fast will get them interested more often than just getting the bait to depth.
  11. Why does he jerk with violence and malice? Here's my answer to that. The jerks probably don't increase depth but the one thing they do is create interest. No one can jerk fast enough to keep a little amount of slack from occuring at the end of each jerk therefore the bait turns some after each jerk. If you reel the bait down it basically goes to it's maximum depth at a fairly constant rate and very little action and most bass aren't going to swim 20 feet or more to try to catch it. The turns created by the jerks get there attention, they are watching the bait and it suddenly stops, curiosity then gets the better of them they swim over to investigate it, it suddenly moves a little and now they remember how fast it was moving earlier so they eat it before it gets away.
  12. Could you not put a static plate on for a higher transom?
  13. To quote and old saying, This tread (has gone to he-l in a hand basket) now.
  14. There have been many different opinions mentioned here, each has there on way of doing things. Non of them should be considered wrong. That is the magic of the jerk bait, and what leads it to become an obsession for some of us. So now to further add to the confusion of which way to turn, I'm going to list for me the five jerk bait seasons and the size line I use for each. 1) mid december thru febuary 8# or 10# carbon 8# mono 2)march thru april 10# carbon 10# mono 15# mono (used for floating jerk bait around beds ) 3) may thru june 10# carbon 12# to 15# mono 4) july thru mid september 10# 0r 12# carbon 10# mono 5) mid september thru mid december 10# carbon 8# or 10# mono When it comes to weighting the bait, there are many ways to do this. I'm going to explain how I do it, maybe this will help someone. First thing most people throw a jerk bait in water 55 degree or less, so therefore I want my bait to suspend somewhere in this range of water temp. The first step is to put the bait in a deep sink with cold water, remember were looking for a close proximity to the temperature range, Her we want the bait to suspend as close to neutral buoyancy as we can get it without sinking. Start by changing to heavier or lighter hooks, most usually staying in the same size range, occasionally you may have to use the next size smaller which I don"t like to do. These hooks can be weighted as Bill Babler said earlier and in my opinion is the best route to go. Now it's time to go to the cement pond, here we want to see what action the bait has as we jerk, twitch, and pull on it, and by this we can tell the different characteristics of each bait. Almost forgot this needs to be done with different types and sizes of line, as they can make from minimal to massive differences on certain lures.Now we get to go fishing, be sure to take some weighted hooks, hooks of different sizes, suspend strips or dots(which I don't really care for and rarely use), and different sizes of split rings. Here's where you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor. You should already have the bait tied to your favorite jerkin rod(let's change this I'm going to do it my way.) I'm at my starting spot , I take my favorite jerkin rod and drop the bait in the water and push it down, then I observe how it sits(here if I've weighted it at about the same temperature and used the proper line, it should sit there in one spot or slowly rise) if it rises I then take one of the splits rings mentioned before and hang it on the middle hook push back into water. When I get the proper weight where it sits like I want then I put the split ring on the existing hook hanger. With this method most baits can achieve neutral buoyancy in a very minimal amount of time. If your unfortunate and have a bait that sinks to fast and smaller hooks aren't available my suggestion is to find another bait and start over at step one. This is something you can do to keep yourself occupied on those cabin fever days that you don't have housework to do. I may voice my opinions on different baits at a later date, so get your guns ready.
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