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Option 1, or Option 2?

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Getting back to working on our tin boat. Overall very fishable, but the boy wants a removable floor (easy). Also looking at putting a bow plate up front, maybe putting a TM up there.

Looking at two options for the plate. Roughed out a couple templates last night. 

Option 1: full plate of 3/4" plywood (resin coated, painted, carpeted) mounted on top the gunnels and bow handle. Planning to rivet angle aluminum to the gunnels or hull, bolt the plate to those. 0517201926b_copy_1746x2328.jpg0517201926a_HDR_copy_1746x2328.jpg

Option 2: a smaller plate, flush fit. 0517201912_copy_1396x1861.jpg0517201912c_copy_1396x1861.jpg

First option provides a lot more space for cleats, light, perhaps a bow mount TM. Does have a gap because of the height of the bow handle (welded on).

Second looks a lot cleaner. Still provides mounting space. 

Putting a bow mount on will require drilling and bolting through the bow handle either way. We have two transom mount TMs. Looking at putting the longer one up front on a fabricated mount for now. That would also be easier with the first version. Overall length of the plate is negotiable. Both have space for a 25" TM mount, which would hang my 36v on it 😂🤣😂🤣.

Input welcomed. 

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First you need to capture a level line from the gunnel further back (center of boat).   If you go with the angle you have shown with your template then your trolling motor is going to be fighting against the weight of the hull (trying to lift it upwards, instead of just easily towing the boat) and that makes for a noisy TM that hums loudly and resonates through the aluminum hull.  It's a geometry thing.

Make sense?  😊

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50 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

First you need to capture a level line from the gunnel further back (center of boat).   If you go with the angle you have shown with your template then your trolling motor is going to be fighting against the weight of the hull (trying to lift it upwards, instead of just easily towing the boat) and that makes for a noisy TM that hums loudly and resonates through the aluminum hull.  It's a geometry thing.

Make sense?  😊

It does, especially if we're talking about a full on bow mount. Thought perhaps we could work around it between the flexibility of the transom mount clamp bracket, and the fabricated mount. 

Plus a ton of shims 😉.

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You can turn the head around on a transom mount....and hang it off the side closer to the sitting area.  

Works pretty good 

we used to do it that way on rental boats in Canada...I brought the minn Kota with me

had one with the telescopic handle

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12 minutes ago, wily said:

You can turn the head around on a transom mount....and hang it off the side closer to the sitting area.  

Works pretty good 

we used to do it that way on rental boats in Canada...I brought the minn Kota with me

had one with the telescopic handle

I did the same thing with my first jon boat.  The telescopic handle wasn't long enough so I engineered an extension with pvc and a hose clamp.

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The only issue with mounting a transom mount up front, is that they will stick up at an odd angle when stowed. I had one rigged that way on a 14' Alumacraft a couple years ago. 

I lean toward option 1. Makes a nice even platform for mounting the troller, and you can fasten it down to the gunnels instead of fooling with angle brackets. You'll want to add a rib that runs lengthwise along the back like a floor joist, unsupported plywood is pretty flimsy. You might want to stand up there to take a whiz or grab a lure out of a tree sometime, plus all of the stress a trolling motor puts on it. 

To elaborate on Wrench's comment, the trolling motor shaft needs to be perpendicular to the water. You will likely have to shim it some to get it sitting right.

If you do get a bow mount, you'll want either a hand control or something like a Powerdrive with the portable foot pedal or remote control. I was never able to get a cable steer motor to work well on the floor in mine, had to build a front deck.

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