The Superline Advantage
Entry posted by RSBreth
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More fishermen are using superlines every day, but there are still myths and rumors floating around, so anglers wonder what are the real advantages of spooling up with one of these "super" lines. There are more than a just a couple of lines to choose from, and many tackle considerations when switching from standard nylon monofilament, so let's get started with the definition of superline, then different types and material of these lines, knots and tackle, and end with a few tips.
Most anglers call modern fishing lines made from the high strength microfilaments Spectra or Dyneema "Braid", which isn't technically correct since several lines that have been on the market are thermally fused, not braided. I use the term "Superline" which describes all of them, fused or braided, so now when I use that term you'll know what I'm talking about. Anyway, in the early 90's the original Spiderwire hit the market, it was an offshoot of work with Spectra fiber for bullet resistant vests. Very high tech, and very different from standard nylon monofilament. Both Spectra and Dyneema are trademarked names of the two different materials, both are chemically identical, but are manufactured a little different. Does it matter which one your superline is made of? Probably not. Spectra is made here, and Dyneema is European, Belgian to be exact. When the first lines made it to fishermen there were rumors of pulling up stumps, rods shattering on hooksets (how hard were they setting the hook?), rod guides sawed though, and various other weird things, good or bad depending on which axe the teller of these tall tales had to grind. I remember Bassmaster legend Roland Martin hawking the stuff, and opinion of him may have colored the way someone felt about it, too. But there were, and are, real advantages to superlines. It's much thinner than monofilament in equal strengths, so it's often referred to in a first number diameter/second number pound-test term like 4/15 ( same diameter as 4-pound test mono, actual strength 15-pound test) or say 15/65 (15-pound diameter, actual break strengths 65-pounds). Often it's simply referred to as 20- or 30- or whatever-pound test. A little unwieldy, but it's not too hard to understand once you're familiar with the terms.
As far as I know there is only one fused line on the American market, Berkley Fireline. Spiderwire Fusion was another fused line, it had a thin waxy coating that wore off quickly and then the line became "fuzzy" in a short time after that. It never really caught on. It's selling point was it's price, which was much less than FireLine. Fireline seems to be a love it or hate it superline. I know one reason I like it might be because I'm such an In-Fisherman fan, and several staff writers there at the magazine are really keen on it, most notably Matt Straw. So I have years of tips and tricks on using it from them to build on, that and I can tie a reliable blood knot for a superline/fluorocarbon leader connection easier with Fireline than any other superline, braid or fused, that I've ever tried. Fireline recently introduced Fireline Crystal, which is a much more translucent line. When I use superline with a fluorocarbon leader, I prefer my main line brightly colored for easier strike detection. But if you like to tie directly, it may be your line of choice. The fused lines tend to be a little thicker than braids in similar strengths. Fireline in 10-pound test is about the same size as 4-pound test mono, but braided Spiderwire Stealth in 10-pound is only the diameter of 2-pound mono. I find Fireline most useful for local bass fishing in 4/10, 6/14, and the 8/20 versions. Color choices’ are Crystal, Smoke, and Flame Green. It has more "body" than the braids, and can be a little stiff for the first trip or two. As soon as it gets "broken in" a little, it works really good for me.
When it comes to braid, an overwhelming amount of lines are out there. Some have a coating on the individual fibers, on smaller bundles of fibers, or the entire surface is coated. A couple are braided, then are fused for a slicker surface and are touted as handling easier, like new Stren Microfuse. Even within brands there are different choices. Spiderwire alone has Original, Stealth, Supercast, and InvisiBraid (another more translucent line). There are store brands from Bass Pro Shops, Cabelas, and others. If you hang out with the guys at RiverSmallies.com, you may think the only braid in the world is PowerPro, and lots of touring BassMaster and FLW pro's like Spidewire Stealth in 50- or 65-pound test (which is roughly the same diameter as 12- or 15-pound test mono) for Froggin' or fishing heavy vegetation. Cuts right though lily pad stalks and such. I've had great luck with Stren Superbraid for my favorite spinnerbait combo in 40-pound test, which is about the same size as 10-pound mono. I can fish all day (sometimes several) and never have to re-tie. There are people who love P-Line's Spectrex, but I haven't tried it. Trophy bass hunter "Fish Chris" Wolfgram uses Tuf-Line braid and it must work out well for him because I know he uses everything from live bait to huge swimbaits and uses only spinning tackle. I've never tried it, but he has lots of experience with it, and will probably respond to a kind Email if you want to know more. Check out the photograph section of his website. Absolute monster Bass!
http://trophybassonly.com/index.htm
Sufix is a newer force on the market, but their "Performance Braid" has really become popular. A funny story about the Sufix Braid. I was walking the around the "Spring Fishing Classic" at the main Bass Pro a couple of years ago, and the representative from the Sufix booth basically shoved a spool of their monofilament into my hand while almost yelling, "Hey, look at the way our line comes spooled! Less memory than whatever you're using right now!" I was taken by surprise but managed to notice it was 8-pound test. "Sorry, I use Fireline for that." He looked grim, but fired back smugly "I bet getting a backlash out of it is tough!" I answered "How do you backlash a spinning reel?" He looked pretty steamed, so I left while he lined up another victim. Here's a marketing tip for you tackle representatives out there: No matter how good your product is, if you don't make something a customer wants, they will go elsewhere. You can't tell someone "Hey, what you like and catch fish on sucks, so stop it and use our stuff!" They will simply go elsewhere. I guess I wasn't the only one who balked, because it was a year later I started seeing the glossy full page advertisements for a new braided superline, yes indeed, by Sufix. I wonder if getting a backlash out of it is tough? I don't know, I still haven't managed to backlash a spinning reel, and I haven't tried it on a baitcaster yet. All joking aside, I do have to admit Sufix Performance Braid in 20-pound test is pretty good on spinning reels. I'd rate it and Spiderwire Stealth about equal in my book.
Speaking of tangled line, a backlash is still a backlash no matter what line you are using, so for me baitcasting reels aren't really better on that issue with monofilament or superline. The only difference is if you get a backlash picked out, the superline will usually be less damaged. Usually. A square or "Granny" knot is bad on any fishing line, but it's Kryptonite to superlines, and if you get several of these (like you can in a severe backlash) you may have your line part ways later, usually on a hookset or the launch of a long cast. Not fun. Braids seem a little more susceptible than fused lines in this regard. Spinning reels are a different matter when it comes to manageability. Think of all the issues with line twist, spooling, and having to do it often because the twist wears mono out quickly, and the inevitable mess of old twisted mono jumping off the reel like a slinky when you open the bail. Now make it all go away. That's right, none of that again. Spool up with the right superline and you may not have to re-spool for years. Put a rod/reel combo away, and when you get it out just go fish, even months later, no line memory. I have a combo I use for light cranks and it's on it's third season of pretty heavy use, it's spooled with 4/10 Fireline and usually has a 10-pound fluorocarbon leader. I just get it out, use it, put it away. The only maintenance I have to do now is reel cleaning/lube and cleaning the grit off my rods guides. But hey, this is America, if you are just in love with re-spooling spinning reels, stick with mono. For baitcasters, unless you are using one of the few high end models designed for light line (Diawa Pixie, Shimano Scorpion, etc.) stick with superlines that are the diameter of 8- or 10-pound test. Anything smaller can cause problems by getting between the spool and side plates.
That brings us to knots. With the exception of fly fishermen, freshwater anglers balk at any rigging where you have to tie more than one knot. Yeah, I know some Carolina rig, or tie a small swivel ahead of jerk shads or their drop shot to keep line twist down, but most people jump on the line/leader knot as the reason the don't like superlines, and they also won't try to tie direct to their lure in clear water. As Goldmember says, "Well, then there is no pleasing you". Learn to tie good knots, and there is no problem. I think you can tell the level of a fisherman’s experience by how well versed they are in knot tying. I don't have a merit badge, but years of Flyfishing and making my own knotted leaders definitely makes me a mean bloodknot tying machine. That's a great knot for superline/leader connections. Put a dab of superglue on the knot and let dry a second for extra strength.
http://www.netknots.com/html/blood_knot.html
I also use the back-to-back or double uni, which is easier to tie in braided lines than the blood knot.
http://www.netknots.com/html/dbl_uni.html
There are some more exotic knots, like the Slim Beauty or J-knot, but I rely on the former two knots for my superline/leader knot needs.
For small diameter lines like 10-pound test Stealth, you might double the end of the line with a spider hitch (sometimes called a Surgeon's end loop) before using the new doubled end to make a blood knot to your 8- or 10-pound mono or fluoro. Doubling the line helps prevent it from cutting into the larger mono or fluoro.
http://www.netknots.com/html/surgeons_end_loop.html
A big advantage to the superline/fluorocarbon leader system is you can use leader material that is much stronger than the ones that are made to be manageable for spinning reels. One of the problems of fluorocarbon lines is that the same properties that make it abrasion resistant and have less stretch also make it stiff. It really doesn't matter how stiff your leader is, so I often use Seaguar or Orvis leader material, both of which are just tough stuff. These are expensive, but they last because I only use 7- or 8-foot of the expensive fluoro leader material at a time. "See Honey, it saves me money in the end." That sometimes works.
For tying directly to a lure, there are several good knots. Be mindful that some lures and hook eyes have gaps big enough for small diameter superline to wiggle out from. The only time I tie directly to a lure and not use a leader is for spinnerbaits, swimming jigs in vegetation, or for toothy critters. I like the Uni-knot with the line passed through the eye twice before making the knot.
Some prefer the Palomar for directly tying on lures, and it's a good knot, too.
http://www.netknots.com/html/palomar.html
Coated braids are slick, so a dab of superglue on your knot is always a good idea when using them. Just make sure whichever knot you try, be ready to try a different one if your favorite doesn't work out. All the strength and sensitivity of superline means nothing if your knots fail.
Netknots.com is a great place to study these knots.
http://www.netknots.com/html/fishing_knots.html
If you want to start using superlines, forget about those old nail clippers or using your teeth (your teeth!), you will need a pair of sharp scissors. Another thing- I've cut my hand twice trying to free a snag. Instead of going bare-handed, use a glove, or wrap the line around the butt of the rod or a small dowel to pull a snag loose. If all fails, my motto is: "Just cut your line, don't let your line cut you." The small 2/10 braids are the worst culprit, but even the larger lines can draw blood. Another good thing about the superline/leader system is you can usually make it fail on a heavy constant pull right at the line/leader knot and get all of your expensive superline back, losing only the leader. Oh, and the lure of course, which you were gonna probably lose anyway at that point.
One problem some fisherman have switching is putting superline on a rod already setup for a certain technique with mono or fluoro. You no longer have to fight the rubber band like stretch that some monofilament lines have to get a good hookset. Superlines have almost no stretch, which make them extremely sensitive, but knots, hooks, even rods and reels can reach a critical point quick in the heavier tests because there is no "give". Where before you may have had a heavy action rod and heavy hooks with some give to the line, you now have knot popping ability if you set the hook hard with the drag clamped down. You may have to drop down one notch in rod power, so from medium/heavy, go to medium, and you will have to learn to set your drag correctly where it gives a little on the hookset. You'll learn you don't have to give a "cross their eyes" hookset with superline, usually just a medium power sweep. I used to use a medium heavy spinnerbait rod with 15- or 17-pound test mono, and you had to really give it a good yank to get the stretch out of the line at any distance, but now I use a medium power rod with a softer tip for braid. When I fish hits I just keep reeling until I feel weight, then sweep the rod to the side, and always get a good hookset. I haven't had to replace the line in three seasons, either. If you look at my fishing reports, I'm usually holding up a spinnerbait fish about every other one, usually caught on that combo. Still going, like the Energizer Bunny. The color has faded in the last 20 feet of line, but it seems the fish don't care. Maybe I'll break out the Sharpie someday and touch it up, maybe not. For crankbaits, something medium or medium light with the tiny amount of stretch a fluorocarbon leader gives will prevent trebles from tearing out, but still allow hook-setting ability with a flick of the wrist, even at the end of a long cast.
Braid can loop around your rod guides easier, and uncoated braids pulls more water up towards the reel, which usually doesn't matter except when it's below freezing. For me PowerPro get less tangles around the rod tip than any other braid I've tried, but I don't have that problem at all with Fireline. All superlines get a little faded from use, no matter the color. If this bothers you, an appropriately colored Sharpie will bring that line back in a few seconds, or camo it with a different color if you want.
Some reels just don't like braid, and some just aren't great with fused lines. You'll get tangles around the front of the spool on front drag spinning reels, or it'll loop around the line roller in weird ways unless you close the bail by hand. In my experience, the reels that don't like Fireline are usually the same ones that don't like mono. So if your spinning reel is giving you fits with good mono like Maxima, P-Line or Ande, you might try PowerPro instead of Fireline. But I have two reels (one Shimano, the other Bass Pro brand) that just don't like Spiderwire or Sufix, but are fine with PowerPro or Fireline, so go figure. When you want to spool up, the easiest way to do it is go outside somewhere, take your reel spooled with whatever it is now . Tie the end around a tree, have your dog hold it, or whatever, and walk back about 50-60 yards. As far as a real long cast plus some more. This is where you cut the mono or fluoro off, and tie your superline to it with a blood or uni knot. Fill the reel back up to the brim and now you've used only half or so of your spool of superline. I've seen reels spooled with nothing but an entire 150 yard spool of 4/15 superline, which does not halfway fill the spool of a baitcaster that holds 160 yards of 10-pound test mono, then the person complains that the stuff doesn't cast very good. Well, no kidding? Think people, common sense doesn't end at the waters edge. Use cheap mono for backing so your spool is completely full, and also get twice the use for your money.
To sum up: The main advantage is of superlines is sensitivity, and it's hassle free- no re-spooling all the time. Actually cheaper than straight fluorocarbon with superline/leader system with flouro leader spools lasting a long time. Versatility. Change leaders according to conditions. Able to make long casts, and to get good hooksets at long range. For throwing crankbaits, you'll get a deeper dive with skinny superline verses thicker mono, and it's so sensitive you can tell if a leaf or weed gets stuck on your lure during the retrieve, even a small one. You won't believe that until you try it, but it's true. Oh, how about environmentally sensitive, due to less waste monofilament you have to recycle. You do recycle all that old mono, don't you?
O.K., now the bad news. Cost. None of these lines are given away. These prices are from checking BassPro Online just moments ago, all in the smaller 100- to 150-yard spools:
Sufix Performance Braid: 15.99
PowerPro: 11.99
Berkley Fireline: 13.99
SpiderWire Stealth: 11.49
SpiderWire Invisibraid: 18.99
New Stren MicroFuse: 16.99
Tuf-line: 10.99
P-Line Spectrex: 9.49
If I can give just one recommendation on trying superlines for Bass fishing here in the Ozarks, it's get a good 6' 6" or 7' medium power fast action spinning rod, not necessarily expensive, but good. Then get an equally good spinning reel that holds about 160-180 yards of 8-pound mono. That’s about a 30 size reel, every reel manufacturer makes one. Spool this with mono backing as described before, top it off with one of the high visibility braids like Yellow 4/15 Spiderwire Stealth, the new Red 4/15 PowerPro, or the Flame Green fused 4/10 Fireline. Then get yourself spools of 8-, 10-, and 12-pound test fluorocarbon. Throw in some good 10- or 12-pound test mono, too. You'll only need 8-foot for a leader at a time, so these spools don't have to be big, and 100 yard "filler" spools aren't too expensive. You're set, and with one combo. Shaky head worms on Table Rocks' pea gravel banks? 8-pound fluoro leader. Want to throw a small crankbait into a breeze or swim a grub on those same banks? 8-pound is fine, but step up to the 10 around chunk rock or timber, and ditto for stream cranking Smallmouths and wacky rigging soft stick baits. Works perfect for suspending jerkbaits and soft plastic jerk shads, too. Dock skipping, or fishing heavier cover, lake or stream? Tie on the 12-pound. Want to use a topwater? Tie on 10- or 12-pound mono, since the fluorocarbon lines sink easier, throwing off the action of surface baits. "Walking the dog" is easy with the no-stretch main line. There's more than I can list here, you'll probably think of some I haven't if you try it, but the point is: This is the one rig I never leave behind no matter where I'm fishing for bass, year round.
In the end, the key element in choosing a line is figuring out the method of fishing you intend to do (Spinnerbaits in timber, small cranks for stream Smallmouth, maybe shaky head worms on Table Rock) and then find out what the guys who are experts at it are using. Then experiment. Everyone is different, and personal preferences can outweigh everything else. Is one of your friends a superline nut? Go fish his rigs a day or two, see what you think, and buy the boat gas for thanks. Hey, for what boat gas costs today, I'll take you if you're buying!
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