Jeremy Hunt

The Usual (Snowshoe Rabbit) Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 101, size 12-16 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, red Tail: Snowshoe rabbit (natural) Body: Snowshoe rabbit (natural) Tying Instructions: Step 1. Start the thread at the front. Leave enough room because dubbing will be applied in front, but under the snowshoe rabbit that will be hanging off the front. Step 2. Cut some hair off the rabbit and measure to hang off the front about half the length of the hook shank. The rabbit is kind of like deer hair in the sense that you need to pull out the guard hair before tying it down. If you don’t you will have excess hair at the ends that won’t secure really well to the hook shank. When tying the hair in you’ll have some pointing towards the bend. What you’ll want to do is make a cut with your scissors at an angle. Then tie it all down with thread wraps. This will build a center body. Step 3. Your thread should be at the bend. Repeat the same step as step two. After your done the center should be even from making the cut at an angle. Advance the thread back to the bend and your ready to add dubbing. Step 4. With a fur rake you’ll comb some dubbing out from the rabbit foot. You don’t need to cut any hair. Just put the fur rake close to the hide and rake some out. Showing you how the hair comes right out from using a fur rake. Step 5. Dub some around the thread and wind it up until you get to the front. Step 6. Now lift the front of the hair and make a few turns in front. The will force the tail to lift up. Step 7. Whip finish the fly and add some glue. Very simple tie and it catches fish everywhere you go. This pattern is one that get’s lost, but one you should never forget to fish.

The Chromie (Brian Chan) Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 12-18 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, black Gills: Whit antron yarn Bead: Black tungsten bead Body: Flat tinsel (silver side) Rib: Red copper wire (BR) Abdomen: Peacock herl Tying Instructions: Step1. Start the thread at the eye and tie in some antron yarn, but pay attention to how much you tie on so the bead will slide over it. Make minimal wraps of thread as well. Add some glue to secure it. Step 2. Slide the bead on opposite than you normally would. The bigger end needs to be facing towards the front. Step 3. Restart the thread right behind the bead. Tie in some wire with only a few turns of thread. Step 4. Next tie in your flat tinsel and grab both of them and wrap to the bend of the hook. Make sure when you wrap that you add tension and keep the wraps side by side making a smooth thread base. And make sure that the tinsel doesn’t twist. Step 5. Advance the thread back up behind the bead. Step 6. Now your going to wrap your tinsel up overlapping each wrap as you go forward. And you will need to add tension making sure it lays flat and not create ridges. Tie it down and the cut excess off. Step 7. Wrap the wire about six turns the opposite direction you wrapped the tinsel. Tie down the wire and move it back and forth until it breaks clean. You can use scissors to cut it, but it will always leave a little tag end showing. Step 8. Wrap back a little with your thread. Now tie in some peacock herl behind the bead and make about three turns. Cut the excess off. Step 9. Make a few turns securing the herl and whip finish the fly. Also with hard as nails you’re going to coat the whole thorax of the fly. This will keep the tinsel from coming apart from the fishes teeth.

Green Chironomid ( Brian Chan ) Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 12-18 Thread: UTC 70, olive Gills: White antron yarn Bead: Tungsten Rib: Copper wire (BR) Thorax: Peacock herl Step 1. Start the thread right behind the eye. Cut the tag end off. Step 2. Tie in the antron in the center with a few turns of thread. Don’t go crazy with thread wraps or the bead won’t slide over the thread wraps. Cut the excess off the back and make a few more turns to secure everything. Tie off the thread and add a drop of glue as well. Step 3. Slide the bead with the small hole face towards the back. Start the thread behind the bead and you’re ready to tie in some wire. Note: the thread will be the body of the fly so make sure you pay attention to the thread wraps when tying this fly. The key is to have a smooth foundation for the body. Cut the antron in the front to form the gills. You don't want this to be long so cut it close. Step 4. Butt the wire up to the bead and tie it in. I like to push mine up in the bead a little. Step 5. Tie back making each wrap side by side until you get to the bend. Repeat the same wraps going back up to the bead. The reason why it’s important to use a floss thread is so the thread wraps lay flat around the hook shank. If you use a wax thread you will see segmentations from the thread. Step 6. Wrap the wire up keeping the segmentations evenly spaced as you wind up. I like to have a count system when wrapping the wire so every fly comes out looking the same. I usually do six to seven wraps when I tie midges. Step 7. Wrap back a little and tie in a strand of peacock herl. Advance the thread back up to the bead and make three wraps with the herl going in front of each wrap. Tie it off right behind the bead and cut the excess off. Step 8. Whip finish the thread and add some glue right behind the bead.

Scotch Tape Tent Wing Caddis Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 101, size 12-18 Thread: Uni-thread 8/0, color to match body usually Body: Superfine dry fly dubbing Hair: Deer hair (superrfine) Wing: Natural hen saddle (scotch taped) Step 1. Start the thread at the front and wind until you get to the bend of the hook. Step 2. Add some dubbing to the thread. Make sure it’s sparse because you don’t want a big body. Wrap up until you get almost to the eye of the hook. Everything else will be tied in right there. So pay attention to your thread wraps. See how fine the hair is. That’s the key when tying small flies that require deer hair. Step 3. Cut a small clump of deer hair. Pick out any guard hair at the ends. I don’t stack mine because I don’t want the hair to be even. Tie it in at the top with a few turns and then push down to force it to go around the whole hook shank. These will act as the legs instead of using hackle. Note: I like my hair to be a little past the bend of the hook. I like using natural hen because of the mottled look it gives off. One thing you need to make sure when using scotch tape that it’s transparent and not cloudy. Step 4. Apply the scotch tape on the underside of the feather. Make sure when selecting the feather that it doesn’t have a curved stem in the middle. It needs to be straight because you’re going to fold it in the middle. Step 5. After you make the fold. Make a cut in the center of the feather in the shape of a heart. When you make the cut you can’t stop in the middle of the cut and recut it or you will see where you stopped and restarted. It has to be in one motion so get on the back of the scissors and start the cut. The scotch tape should be on the outside. Now fold it the other way where the scotch tape is on the bottom side when you tie it in. This will give off the sheen when the trout looks up at it. Also make sure you cut the wing to proportion the size of the hook. Step 6. Tie it in where the point is butted up right behind the eye of the hook. Tie back on it a little bit. And the goal is to tie a big part off the wing so the wing doesn’t lift up when you cast it. This will create it to helicopter in the false cast and could spin the tippet and fray it. Or it could also pull the wing right out if you don’t tie it in enough. Step 7. Now dub the front portion of the thread base you created when tying back on the wing. Make sure it matches the dubbed body in the back Step 8. Whip finish the thread off and add some glue to the head.

Maroon Chironomid (Brian Chan) Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 12-18 Thread: Maroon thread, 6/0 Body: Wine stretch tubbing, medium Rib: Silver wire, (BR) Thorax: Peacock herl & white or cream ostrich herl Wing Case: Pheasant tail (four strands) Step 1. Tie in the thread at the front of the hook. Tie in the wire first then the stretch tubing. Wind both together to the bend of the hook and wind the thread back up to the front almost till you get to the eye. Leave a little room for the wing case and herls to be tied in for the thorax. Step 2. Wind the tubing keeping each wrap butted up to the next wrap as you're going forward. Also wrap the tubing counterclockwise then the wire for the ribbing. Add a little tension as you wind it up as well. Step 3. Tie the wire off and move it back and forth until it breaks off. Using scissors will always leave a tag and for that matter dull your scissors after a period of time. Step 4. Wind back a little bit and tie in the pheasant tail fibers. Step 5. Tie in the peacock herl and one strand of ostrich herl. Step 6. Wrap the peacock herl and the ostrich herl and cut the excess off. These will be blended in together. Step 7. Fold over the pheasant tail fibers to form the wing case. Cut the excess off and whip finish the fly off. Glue the head and the fly is complete.

Ok, have a safe trip down. What do you drive?

If it's heavy rain make sure you stay up top where it will stay clear. I've had great luck fishing midge patterns on the bottom. And if you fish egg patterns, they're working extremely well right now. I was out almost every day last week and we caught a ton of fish on peach and yellow. Hey bobtu , I’ll be out tomorrow in the morning on a trip. If you’re still fishing after 2pm look me up and I’ll wet a line with you. Sculpin’s should also be great tomorrow in gray.

Thanx and happy B-day to you!!!

WD40 Recipe Hook: Tiemco 2487 size 16-24 Thread:UTC 70 Brown Tail: Mallard flank or partridge Wingcase: Mallard flank or partridge Thorax: Prism dubbing Tying Instructions: Step 1. Tie the thread up at the eye and cut the tag end off. Step 2. I wanted to show how to tie in the mallard and guage the tail the length you want it. This should be fairly long because your going to use it for the wing case and bypass a step. When you tie this in make sure the tips are fairly even. Now make a few turns to lock it in. Now pull back by the tips and measure the length Then wrap back until you get just past the bend keeping each wrap side-by-side. Step 3. Now advance the thread back up still keeping the wraps side by side. Notice where I stopped with my thread. Step 4. Attach some dubbing to the thread. You only need enough to make three turns around. Keep the ball of dubbing fairly small. Step 5. The only thing you need to pay attention to when doing this step is to make sure when you go to pull the mallard over for the wing case that you don’t twist the mallard. You’ll notice when you go to pull it over you’ll kind of bunch it up like its been grouped together. What you’ll want to do is flatten the mallard out and then fold it over and tie it down. Step 6. Trim off the excess off and make a nice thread head. Just don't over do it. Whip finish the fly and glue the eye. Completed fly.

Mickey Finn Recipe Hook: Streamer 4xl (down eye) size 2-6 Thread: Uni- thread 6/0 Body: Flat Tensil (large) Wing: Yellow & red bucktail Eyes: Flat stick ons (yellow) or paint Tying Instructions: Step 1. It doesn't matter where you start the thread. The only thing you need to do in this step is make a thread base in the back. You'll need to wrap in the same spot to build it up. Once you're done doing that advance the thread back up to the eye. Step 2. Tie your black thread in the front and cut the tag end off. You don't need to make alot of turns, just enough to get it started. Step 3. Tie in the tinsel the whole length of the shank. I'm tying large flat tinsel that comes on a spool. One side is gold and the other side is silver. There's also a step you can do with this that is optional. If you're wanting a rib also you'll need to tie in the oval as well as the tinsel and wrap back to the bend. Pay attention to the stopping point which is where you built the thread dam with red. So leave a little bit of red showing in the back. Step 4. When winding the flat tinsel (first) you'll need to make sure they overlap each other just a little. This will prevent ridges or bumps in the body along the shank. The best way to do this step is with a rotary vise because you have more tension as your holding it. If you tied in the oval tinsel you need to wrap that up next and tie it down. When wrapping the oval tinsel up make sure you make big spaces in between. I would count five turns and you should be up at the eye. Cut the excess off and you're ready to tie the wing in. You don't need much bucktail. One thing to remember when selecting hair from a bucktail is where to find the right hair. The hair that is closest to the bottom will be more hollow like deer hair. When tying bucktail as a wing you don't want hair that will flare when you go to tie it down. If you apply to much tension with poor hair you will see the hair rise and that's not good. The wing needs to lay right next to the hook. Another way to keep it tied down is to make loose wraps and then gradually build it up with thread wraps from tying in the other colors of backtail. Step 5. As you can see in the picture just above this one this will be how much hair you tie for all three wings. This step is very important and the reason why is so you don't build the head wrong or add to many thread wraps. You'll need to cut the hair at an angle (like a ramp) at the ends your tying in. This will keep the head biulding in a taper from large in the back to small up at the eye. Notice how far and how much I tied down. You want to make enough thread wraps to secure the hair. Step 6. Repeat the same step as you did tyng in the yellow. You'll also cut this at an angle before tying it in. And it will slightly be tied in front of the yellow, like building stairs. Example: The orange will be on the yellow and the yellow will be on the red. But make sure you don't tie them directly on top of each other. Step 7. This is the last set of hair you tie in. Once you've tied in the last wing you'll need to clean up the head and maybe build a little bit more to have the proper amount of room to put the eyes on. If your not using stick-ons then you don't have to build up so much head, but I'm taking the easy route and using flat stick-ons in the smallest size. Once you've built your head whip finish the fly and your ready to epoxy the head. I like the old school ones the best. If you can find them, buy them. They don't make them like this anymore. Step 8. Attach the eyes to the sides and your ready for the epoxy. Don't worry about gluing the thread because the epoxy will take care of that. Note: One thing you need to keep in mind is if the eyes don't match up with the diameter of the head you need to add more thread and build if up some more. The epoxy will not make a round ball if the eyes stick out pass the thread head. You'll find yourself adding more epoxy to fill up the mistake. Completed fly. Let it dry over night before fishing it.

Big Ugly Recipe: Hook: Mustad Signature R50, size 6-8 Thread: Uni-thread 6/0 (black) Body: Foam with adhesive sticky side (2mm) Hackle: Whiting hackle (only) Grizzly Tying Instructions: Step 1. Cut a piece of the foam to measure just shy of the straight part of the hook shank on both ends. This way you can build a taper on both ends for the hackle to be tied in and the eye not to be crowded. Step 2. Start the thread at the front and tie down the foam winding to the bend. Make close wraps to keep a smooth foundation. If you don’t have a smooth base your hackle will find its own grooves to slide into instead of even segmentations as you wind the hackle up. Step 3. You should have a nice tapered slope at the back before you tie in the hackle. Step 4. Grab two of the same hackles and splay them out. The reason for this is one will wrap one direction and the other one the opposite direction. Make sure you select the right size hackle for the hook you’re tying it on. The rule of thumb on this patterns is for the hackle to be longer, twice as long as the hook gap. Step 5. Separate the hackle at the tips. These hackles get larger fairly quick so make sure you think about that as you’re gagging the right size hackle. Step 6. Tie the hackle in right where you separated them. Tie them together and make sure the hackles are splayed out (think about legs kicking out). Tie down the tips instead of cutting them off. That way they won’t slip out when you wind them forward. This is also when you’ll want to tie the foam down as you advance the thread back up to the eye. Step 7. The first feather should be wrapped up opposite of counter clock wise. This will help the barbs stick out instead of getting smashed down. I have found that if you tie the first feather going counter clock wise you’ll tie down more of the barbs when you tie the second feather and it won’t look right. I made about seven turns with the hackle and trim the excess off. I always trim off up top. A little trick I do is before I cut the feather off is I tie in front of it a few turns to shift it back so I don't have any barbs going in front of the eye or crowding the eye. Step 8. Wrap the next feather going counter clock wise. If you find yourself smashing down the barbs down then tweak it as you wind it forward (trying to keep as many barbs sticking up). Go slow and it will work better. Step 9. Trim off the excess and whip finish the fly. Now grab some type of bodkin (I use the end of the whip finisher, the pointed side you grab the thread with) and pull out any barbs you see that you can get to stick back out. The matarelli whips have a nice point that can be used as a bodkin to pick out dubbing etc. Glue the eye and it’s a finish fly.

Copper John Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 5262 sz. 10-18 Bead: Gold Bead (Cyclops or Tungsten) Weight: Lead Wire .015 Thread: 70-Denier Ultra Thread (Black) Tail: Brown goose biots Abdomen: Copper Ultra Wire Wing Case: Thin Skin (Olive and pearl flashabou covered with epoxy) Thorax: Peacock Herl Legs: Mottled brown hen neck Tying Instructions: Step 1. Note: The reason why you want to use a floss thread is it will lay flatter on the shank which will leave a smoother body for the wire to be wrapped up. If you use a uni-thread you will see gaps in between the wire when you start to wrap it up. I’ve already slid the bead on and wrapped about ten wraps of .15 lead wire. You can either use a cyclopes or tungsten bead. Just make sure you slide it on where the smaller hole is pointing towards the eye. Once you’ve done that push the lead up into the bead. Secure your thread right behind the lead and build a small thread dam and wind back to the bend. You should be past the hook point when you tie in the biots. Step 2. Select two biots that are next to each other. I’m using turkey biots because they are longer then the goose and seem to be the pick of choice for most tiers these days. Now match up the two together and make sure they’re facing outwards. Also even the tips before tying them in. Measure the tail about half the length of the hook shank. You’ll want to hold them by the tip with your left hand while tying them in. If you have difficulty tying these in you can try placing the biots on each side of the hook and tie them in one by one. I wouldn’t recommend it, but until you get it down I would do it this way. If you do tie the biots in together make sure you slightly off center them to be on your side. When you wind the thread the turn from the thread will lay them right on top. Make a few tighter turns without letting go of the tips and it should be secure. Step 3. Now wrap the wire up keeping each wrap side by side until you get to the middle of the lead wire. Step 4. Tie in the wire and wrap to the bend. Make sure you butt the last wrap even in the back so you don’t see any thread wraps underneath when you wrap the wire up. Remember to keep the wraps side by side when tying to the back and then back up to the center of the lead wire again. The thread body has to be smooth for the best results. Note: One thing to keep in mind is right behind the lead wire you might see a dip from not enough thread wraps being behind it to create the taper slope you’ll need to keep the wire going smooth all the way up the body. Step 5. Wrap the wire up and take your time making sure you get each wrap side by side. Move the wire back and forth and it'll break clean. Step 6. Now in a row you'll tie in the thin skin, flashabou and peacock herl. You only need a few turns for each material you tie in. Don't over crowd the eye or you will have no room to tie in the hen feather for the legs. Step 7. I tie in two strands of peacock herl and I twist them before wrapping them up. Cut the excess off. What ever you do make sure you don’t tie these down right behind the bead. Step 8. Fold the flashabou over and trim off the excess. Step 9. Select a feather and pull off a clump of fibers and measure them to the point of the hook or a little closer. When you tie these down you should have a little room between the bead and the herl. Tie the tips in between the little grove you have. You only need to make a few turns and do the other side the same way. To hold the tips in place mash them with your finger against the shank and tie them down. Trim the excess off and make a few more turns locking them in and shoving the excess in if you have any from making the cut. Step 10. Fold the thin skin over and cut the excess off. When cutting the excess off you will notice a little tag end of the thin skin hanging a little over the bead. That’s fine because it will help keep the fly together from the epoxy you will apply. Step 11. Now when tying this fly off you should be tying on top of the bead just a little bit. Whip finish the fly and you’re ready to add a small drop of epoxy on top of the thin skin.

Sac Fry Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 12 Thread: White Monocord 3/0 (or UTC 140) Body Tubing: Ultra lace or stretch tubing (tan or clear) Egg Sack: Glo yarn ( your choice of color) Eyes: 3D Stick ons (silver prismatic) Epoxy: 5-minute or Devcon Tying Instructions: Step 1. I’m using stretch tubing from Wapsi in a size small. Medium is ok, but a little oversized. Cut about an inch and a half of tubing. Grab some small mono. I’m using tying mono in .006, but 6x tippet will do the trick as well. It needs to be long enough to fold over and put the two tag ends through the hole in the stretch tubing. If you notice in the picture I’ve created a hole with the mono to put some angel hair in. Make sure you make it large enough to slip it through. Step 2. Once you slide the hair through pull with the tag ends until the angel hair is through the ends on both sides. Grab the mono and remove away. You’re going to cut the ends, but wait until your ready to tie it on the hook. This is the end that was pulled through. The other end will have a bunch of uneven ends and that’s the end that will be tied down. Step 3. Attach the thread at the front of the hook. Just make a few turns and cut the tag end off. Step 4. Tie the end that has the loose ends. Make sure you tie both down, the loose ends and the tubing. You’ll need to give a little tension while tying the tube down or it will still be loose enough to shift to either side of the hook shank. Notice where the stopping point is and don’t tie too much of the tubing down. Step 5. Cut about an inch of glo yarn and split it evenly into two separate pieces. You’ll only need one of the pieces that you split in half to do this step. Step 6. Fold the piece in half and measure it to go a little past the hook point. Trim the excess off and don’t let go of the ends that you’ll be tying in or this step will get frustrating to you. You’ll also need to turn the hook upside down to get it to tie down right. Notice I measure the ends to NOT go past the eye of the hook. You really don’t want to trim any after you tie it in. Measure it to butt up to the eye and tie all of it in. This will also create some build up for you to have a foundation for the eyes to stick to. Step 7. Make a nice head that will be round and big enough for the eyes to lay flush with the head. What I mean by this is if you notice the eyes sitting higher than the thread base then you’ll have problems with the epoxy settling right and it will sink down into the yarn. Whip finish and you're ready for the epoxy. Go light on the first coat and apply the second coat once the first coat dries. Step 8. Attach the eyes on each side and you’re ready to add the epoxy. If the eyes don’t stick you can add a small drop of zap-a-gap. When I apply epoxy I put it in the center in between the eyes where it needs it the most and do the underside the same. Then do the sides and rotate it till you cover it all the way around with epoxy. Another trick I do is point the hook down a little so it doesn’t settle in the yarn as I rotate it. Here’s another one I did in yellow, they seem to like this color better at Taneycomo.

Rag Sculpin (Mike Mercer's) Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 700, size 2-6 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0 (for tail only) Tying Thread: Wax monocord 3/0 Tail: EZE Bug yarn (tan or color you desire) Body: EZE Bug yarn (tan or color you desire) Pectoral Fins: Medallion sheeting Eyes: I-Balz or any eye that is weighted Marking Pens: Prismacolor markers Tying Instructions: Step 1. Cut a piece of the EZE bug yarn about six inches. This next step is really up to you. Measure the tail about half the length of the hook shank. That will be the reference where you will peel back the fibers until you can see the inner core. Now with each hand keeping the fibers peeled back you’ll need to make about ten turns of thread around in the same spot. This will make a little base for you to tie the material in. How I do this step is once I get the thread started I then swing it around with centrifugal force still holding the material with both hands. This might take a little practice, but you’ll eventually get it. Step 2. Next thing you’ll want to do is attach the eyes. Leave enough space to have room for the yarn to be tied off in the front of the eyes. Notice where I tied mine in. When tying the eyes in make figure eights and every time you make a turn keep as much tension as you can without breaking the thread. Also before making a bunch of turns you’ll want to add some Sally Hansen hard as nails to the top and then rotate the hook over and do the same thing to the bottom. To learn more about how to secure the eye go check out the Taneycomo sculpin. After you complete this step go ahead and put another coat of hard as nails. Let it dry a little and then you’re ready to finish the fly. What I do is prep about six hooks and then by the time you’re done with the last you can start working with the first one. Step 3. Advance the thread back to the bend of the hook and tie down the tail right on top of the thread wraps you did in the first step. Once you make about two or three turns getting the tail secure go ahead and add more tension. I usually do about ten wraps and then lift the tail up and tie right in front a few times. This will help keep the tail from shifting or coming loose. On the underside add a few drops of glue on the base of thread. If you add it on the top you’ll more then likely get some on the material. Step 4. Advance the thread back up just behind the eyes. Now palmer the EZE bug yarn up to make the body. As you make each turn pull the fibers back so you don’t tie any down. Example: Take a wrap and stroke the fibers back before making the next turn. Don’t go all the way up behind the eye because you still need to tie in the pectoral fins with the medallion sheeting. I wanted to show you how to tie down the material so you can get ready to tie in the pectoral fins. I make a few to secure it down to keep the yarn on the underside of the hook (out of the way). It also helps if you have a material clip so you can trap it so it will definitely stay out of the way. Step 5. Cut about an inch of medallion sheeting off. Now cut that in half (long ways) and you are ready to prep one of those you cut in half. Round the edges off like you see in the picture. Step 6. You can buy this sheeting in several colors, but the one I have is clear so I colored it with a brown prisma color marker. Now you're ready to cut the sheeting directly in half. Step 7. Now something I have found that won’t work is cutting the ends your tying in to a point. Keep them a square when tying them in. You can make your fins long or short depending on the way you want them to look. I measure mine to the hook point. When tying these in your first turn will be loose (kind of how you would tie in deer hair) and then cinch down. Make a few more turns and you’re ready to do the other side. Step 8. You should have enough room to make one full turn in front of the fins and just behind the eye. This can be tricky because when you go to make the turn it might shift the fins and make them uneven. So what I do is press with my finger and keep the fin against the hook shank when I make the turn so they don’t shift. After you make the turn then do a full figure eight around the eyes and then tie it off right in front of the eye. Cut the excess off and whip finish it. Step 9. Now cut the top and bottom to make it look flat like a sculpin. I also trim around the fins so you can see them more. The only other cut you need to make is to the tail which it needs to have a rounded look. Now you’re ready to color it to your desired look. Step 10. I’m using three colors and the yarn I tied this particular pattern is tan in color. The three colors are olive, brown and sepia. The first color I use is the olive and I want to put a line going down the whole length of the fly. Then I use the brown and color on the top to whatever you want it to look like. The key is blend the two colors together. I also dab small dots all around as well. I don’t do anything to the bottom. Then with the sepia I blend it all in. Also color the fins to.

Wildcat Streamer Recipe: Hook: Any bass hook with a sproat bend or streamer hook with a down eye. Thread: UTC 140 (color to match body) Eyes: Weighted lead eyes (any style you want is fine as long as they're weighted. Body: Rabbit strips (I'm using yellow with an orange at the tip of the tail). Tying Instructions: Step 1. Secure the eyes with a few wraps in a figure eight. Once you tie them on you can adjust the eyes according to the way you want them. Next you’ll need to add some hard as nails in between the eyes (post). Now wrap in a figure eight motion to secure the eyes firmly. Make sure you keep tension on each wrap or the eyes will shift. Once you’ve built it up then rotate the hook upside down and repeat the same step as you did the top. I also add another coat of hard as nails on the bottom side. Once you’ve built the bottom rotate the hook back in the normal position and post the eyes to get the wraps really tight. What I mean by posting is go under the eyes, but above the hook shank with about ten turns. This will really lock these eyes in and won’t spin around the hook shank after a few cast. Step 2. Cut about a four inch strip of rabbit. I’m not using cross cut just regular strips that come on the whole hide that are stapled to the cardboard. The ones that come prepackaged are not as good just for that reason. Being smashed down in a bag will create memory in the hide itself. So if your tying flies that have a long tail hanging off the back you will see the folds in the rabbit which will not look as good. Of course after you get it wet it will look fine in the water, but who wants a new fly that looks like it’s been in a bend for awhile. LOL Now the tail will hang off about two and a half lengths of the hook shank. Poke the hide in the center and slide it up to be tied in on the bend. You can wet your fingers and separate the hair and tie in between where you split it. Look at the picture to see the step. Make about three turns keeping the thread on top of each wrap in the same area. Lift the hide up and tie right in front of it. This will lock it in and prevent it from shifting when you go to wind it forward. Look how it's tied in. Step 3. Advance the thread back up to the eye. Step 4. Wrap the rabbit strip forward keeping the wraps side by side. Make sure you palmer the hair back every time you make a full turn around the hook shank. This will help keep the hair laying back instead of straight up or maybe even forward a little bit. Once you get behind the eye you’re going to do a figure eight between the eyes. You can also tie it down behind the eye and do something different for the head. Just an option for you. You could dub it with some kind of flashy dubbing to enhance the fly. You can also add flash down the fly. Tie it in right behind the eyes and measure to the length of the whole tail. Step 5. I went ahead and did the figure eight between the eye. Once you do a full figure eight around the eyes tie it down and cut the excess off. I like this look because it blends so nice and keeps the fly looking the same in the water. Step 6. After you cut the excess off you’ll need to clean the head up with thread. You’ll build the thread head into a cone shape. If you noticed you crowded the eye it’s probably due to the eyes being tied to close to the eye of the hook. After the fly is complete you can add a different color of rabbit to the end of the tail. This is easy to do if you have the right glue. Make sure the strips are the same width also. You can cut it to the desired length you want. I only cut about half an inch in length and glue it at the end. Just butt the end of the hides together when gluing it. I use this stuff that is highly recommended when attaching soft hides together. Gloss coat the thread head and your good to go!!! This fly works really good for bass.

Zonker Recipe: Hook: TMC 5262 size 2-6 (or any streamer hook will work) Thread: UTC 140 (white) or color to match the body Body: Flexi-cord (silver) these come in several sizes, match the right size to the hook size Wing: Rabbit strips (white) Collar : Rabbit Eyes: Prisma stick-ons (black) or whatever color you like. Tying Instructions: Step 1. First thing you need to do is make the body. I like to have premade stencils already cut out so I don’t have any guess work. So if this is your first time tying this fly I would keep the stencil for a reference after you’ve made it for this size hook. Notice on the picture how I’m measuring this to be cut to shape. Step 2. Fold this just the way you see it on the picture. And what you really need to pay attention to is the hook shank being in the middle of the fold. Not right up against the fold on the underside. That’s where I see a lot of people have trouble with this step. Step 3. Cut it to this shape. Make sure you have room to tie material in at the bend and the front of the hook. So make sure you leave a space or you’ll crowd the eye. Step 4. Now cut a length of flexi-cord a little longer then the hook. If you don’t have these materials then you can also use the standard mylar cord. I like this because it’s more durable then the mylar and won’t fray as much. Another thing to remember is making sure it’s the right size. If you can slide it over the body and it’s really loose then I would say it’s too big and you’ll need to go down a size. If it’s too small you will notice it start to split as you slide it on. Once you slide it on then take the thread and make a few turns around and snug it tight. Leave a little excess in the back. You shouldn't have to cut any off in the back. This should be measured before tying it down. Step 5. Measure the strip about half the hook shank hanging off in the back. Split the hair and tie it down where you made the split. If you wet your fingers when separating the two it will keep the hair out of the way so you can see where to tie it. Make the wraps on top of each other. I would do about three or four and then whip finish the thread off. I also put a little zap-a-gap on the underside of the thread so it holds together longer. Step 6. This step can be a little frustrating until you tie this fly a few times. You have to cut the front of the cord flush with the eye of the hook. Maybe a little past it, but that's it or you’ll have excess hanging off the front. What we're trying to do is prevent you from making any cuts to the flexi-cord. Now repeat the same step you did in the back. Make a few turns, but don’t worry about cleaning up the head yet. You still need to tie a little collar of rabbit on the underside. Step 7. Fold over the rabbit strip and tie it down. Cut off any excess hanging off the front. Step 8. Cut a little rabbit from the hide and tie it down as a collar on the bottom side. You can go all the way around if you want. Just make sure you measure the hair to not go past the bend of the hook before tying it in. This is another step that you don’t want to cut any rabbit off in the front. Make your cut before tying it in. Step 9. Whip finish the thread off and stick your eyes on at the front (on the thread head you made). Next you’ll want to make a small coat of epoxy around the head. This will make the fly look good and stay together for the long haul.

Conehead Bunny Leech Recipe: Hook: TMC 5363 size 2-6 (or any streamer hook) Thread: UTC 140 Black (or color to match body) Cone: Tungsten (color you desire according to the right color rabbit) Body: Rabbit palmered up. (not cross cut) Purple Collar: Wapsi new palmered chenille Purple Tying Instructions: Step 1. Tie in the thread and wind to the bend. Cut the tag end off and your ready to tie in the rabbit. Step 2. I don't really show this step, but measure the tail the length of the hook shank. Split the hairs and tie it in on the top of the hook shank. I would wet my fingers when splitting the hair. This will help keep the hair out of the way when tying it in. I make three or four turns right on top of each other then lift the strip up and tie right behind it locking it in. This will also prevent the hair from shifting to one side of the hook shank when you start to wind it up. Step 3. Palmer the rabbit strip up and tie it down. I don’t tie all the way up because I need some room to tie in the palmered chenille. As you tie down the rabbit you will want a base for the chenille to be palmered up. Look at the picture to see the step. Step 4. I made about five full turns around. I also snug it right behind the cone. Really snug it tight on the last wrap and it will help snug it into the cone. You will usually notice it will turn a little more around the hook shank when doing this step. Which is a good thing. Whip finish the thread off and glue it.

Double Bunny (Scott Sanchez) Recipe: Hook: TMC 5263 size 2-8 Thread: 140 UTC (white) Weight: .30 lead Wings: White Zonker Strips & Chinchilla Accent Flash: 4-5 strands of silver Flashabou Eyes: Plastic Stick-Ons Head: 2 coats 5-minute epoxy Tying Instructions: Step 1. Wrap the lead almost the whole length of the hook shank. See where I positioned mine. I leave a little room in the front and in the back. Step 2. Measure about a two inch white rabbit strip. You can see how I positioned mine. Poke the rabbit strip through the hook point and slide it up and position it to where the rabbit hide is against the hook (on the underside). You should have a little rabbit going past the eye of the hook. Make a cut even with the eye and tie down the rabbit. You can either make a straight cut or make two cut’s an angle to point and tie it in that way. It’s really up to you. I personally like the hide coming to point. Especially if the hide is to wide (overlapping) on the hook shank. The strips are about a 1/4 inch wide. I also tie these using strips up to 1/8 wide. Note: Make sure you measure the strip wide enough that it folds over on each side of the shank. It should connect on each side when you go to mash them together. If it’s not you will know when you go to glue it and still see the side of the hook shank. And also the wire will be real visible. That means the hide is to skinny. Make sure you make a nice clean thread head when tying the strip in for the next piece that will be tied in on the top. This will also build a nice cone shape head that you want for the epoxy that will be added at the end. Step 3. The gray strip should be measured the same length as the white. This is when you want to cut the white strip in the back if you think it’s to long for the size hook. Next measure the gray strip the same length as the white and tie it in at the eye. When you tie this one in you shouldn’t need to make any cut off in front of the eye. After you tie it in run your fingers down it and make sure it’s the same length in the back. Don’t measure by the hair. Measure by the hide. Also make sure you are hiding the hook shank by the hide being wide enough. This is about how long you want it. One thing to keep in mind when tying wings for streamers is, use your vise for reference points so each fly comes out looking the same. Step 4. This is when you’ll glue the hides together using this stuff called tear mender. Your local fly shop can get it. This glue doesn’t glue hard which will keep the hides staying loose when you connect them together. If you try to use other glues I can almost bet you the fly will turn out wrong. It will look good, but will not fish good. You want it to breathe in the water. Step 5. Your thread should still be hanging off the front. Before making a nice thread head you’ll need to tie in 4-6 strands of silver flashabou accent on each side. Don’t worry about how they look. When you add the eyes you’ll fix that. Make a nice cone shape thread head and whip finish the fly. Step 6. I’m using solid plastic eyes in the largest size they come which is the 7 ½ mm. These come in several colors and they look great on the patterns along with deer hair poppers. They have a stem that you need to cut off flush. I like to use large toenail clippers. When gluing these on you need to position the flash to be directly in the middle of the two hides. I like the marine goop or Zap A-Dap-A Goo #2 for attaching the eyes on. What ever you do DON”T use zap-a-gap or you will regret it. Step 7. After the fly is complete you'll want to make a coat of epoxy around the thread at the head. You don't need much so watch how much you apply or it can get away from you. This will help the fly last longer. Showing you another way to tie these with the weight being in the eyes instead of the body. This will give the fly more action as your stripping it in. I would fish this in lakes where the water is calmer. The fly will do all the work all you have to do is hold on tight. I like to use hard as nails when I tie any type of fly that requires weighted eyes. Repeat the same steps as you did with the first one.

Jumbo John Recipe: Hook: 2499 SP-BL Thread: Black 70 and 140 Bead: Hot orange Weight: .015 Lead wire Tail: Goose Biots Wing case: Black Thinskin and Pearl Saltwater Flashabou covered with epoxy Abdomen: UTC Medium (black) Thorax: Superbright (black) Legs: Rubber legs Collar: (optional) Tying Instructions: Step 1. Slip the bead on and wrap about half the length of the hook shank. Start the thread behind the lead wire and wrap till you get almost to the bend. Leave enough room to tie in the biots and wraps to the bend. Step 2. Tie in a pair of turkey biots. The tag ends should still be attached. As you wind the thread back up you’ll tie this down until you get half way up to the lead wire. Step 3. Trim the excess off. This is where you’ll want to make a nice smooth base before you tie in the wire. You’ll notice a step off where the lead stops at the back. Make a thread dam and even that out smooth. This has to be smooth or the wire will not stay side by side. Step 4. Tie the wire in the middle of the lead wire. Wrap tight back to the bend keeping the wraps side by side to make a smooth base. Wrap the thread back up to where you tied in the UTC wire. Step 5. Wrap the wire forward forming the abdomen. Take your time when doing this step so the wire stays side by side so you don’t have spaces in between. Cut the excess or move the wire back and forth until it breaks. Step 6. Tie in a single strand of saltwater flashabou on top of the lead wire. Step 7. Tie in the thinkskin and wrap both back until you tie on top of the black wire. Use the hook point for a reference point. The thread should hang just in front of the hook point. I’m using these new metallic sili legs, but any rubber leg will work. I just wanted to show you these so you can go out an pick you some up. Step 8. Tie in the legs on the sides of the hook shank. I leave mine long until I complete the fly and then cut them to the desired length. Step 9. Add a small amount of dubbing to the thread. Wrap behind the legs and then on top of the legs. Then pull the two legs that are forward and tie in front of those. Step 10. Fold the thinskin over and tie it down right behind the bead. Do the same step with the flashabou. Cut the excess off and whip finish the fly. You should have a little tag hanging over the bead which is fine because you’ll epoxy it in. Step 11. Put a small coat of epoxy over the wing case. You don’t need much, just enough to cover it. Also get a little on the wire to make the fly more durable. Step 12. Cut the legs to be the length of hook.

Thunder Creek Minnow Recipe: Hook: Straight eye streamer hook, size 2-6 Thread: UTC 140 White Body: Pearl Tinsel or Saltwater Flashabou Wing: Bucktail (chartruese and white) Eyes: Flat stick ons Tying Instructions: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q298/js...dercreek033.jpg Step 1. As you can see I've already started the thread and tied the tinsel up to the eye. If you want to learn how to do this step go to my Mickey Finn pattern and it will show you how to do this step. Step 2. You'll want to tie the bottom (belly) first. The key to measuring the length is to make it just passed the bend of the hook. You can do this two ways, but I like to cut my ends before tying it in. If you're not comfortable with that then tie in the bucktail and cut the excess off after you tie it in real good. Also, if you notice I leave enough room behind the eye so you can have the head form after you fold the bucktail over. Note: It may take you a few times to get the measurement to the desired length that you want. One way I do this is make a few turns to secure the bucktail then fold the front back and see where the bucktail aligns with the bend of the hook. If it's too long you can pull it forward or back to gage the desired length you want. Once you have done that you can secure the bucktail. Step 3. So now you're ready to tie in the top part of the bucktail, but before you do tie in about eight strands of krystal flash. I fold mine around the thread and then tie them in. Measure them to be a little past the white bucktail you tied for the belly. Step 4. Tie in the chartreuse the same way you did the white. Now advance your thread back to the stopping point (where the ends you cut off facing towards the bend of the hook) to get ready to fold over the chartreuse. Don't try to fold both over at the same time. Step 5. Turn the hook upside down and tie down the white bucktail. The thread should still be in the same place from tying down the chartreuse. If you notice any small pieces sticking out from the eye then you didn't get them out when you were prepping the bucktail. It's pretty crucial that all are long and the same length. Step 6. Make a little thread base and whip finish the thread off. It's really up to you, but sometimes I'll color the thread with a red prismacolor marker to form a gill. Step 7. The eyes should stick right to the side if you're using stick-ons. Go ahead and stick the eyes on and now you're ready to add the epoxy. Step 8. Make a nice even coat of epoxy. I also run it over the red thread to make it stand out more.

Hook: Tiemco 5263/5262, size 2-8 Thread: Uni-thread 6/0 (color to match body) Cone: Tungsten (size to match hook) Body: Pine Squirrel (barred) Let’s get the story straight on who was the originator of this pattern. Joe Schmuecker who is one of the son’s at Wapsi is the one who promoted this pattern about five years ago when he was at the conclave. He’s the guy who dies everything. And they’re the ones that first thought about bringing pine squirrel into the tying world. I’m glad they did because these are very effective patterns anywhere you go. I’ve caught several different types of fish on these as well. I’ve had better luck at night catching rainbows, but the best luck I’ve had on this pattern is catching smallmouth on Kings River. If you’ve never floated this river I suggest you try it out. You won’t be disappointed that’s for sure. Tying Instructions: Step 1. Slide the bead on and get the thread started behind the cone and wind to the bend. Step 2. Measure the tail a little shorter then the hook shank and split it to be tied in. You can also wet your fingers to keep the hair separated so it doesn’t get in the way when tying it in. I’m using a barred strip, but use whatever color you like. Step 3. Make about five wraps of thread in the same spot and then lift the tail and tie right in front of it. This will also help keep it locked in tighter and prevent it from shifting around the hook. Advance the thread back up right behind the cone. Step 4. Now palmer the strip up until you get to the bead. Make sure every time you make a turn around the hook shank with the strip you’re pulling back the hair so it’s laying back and not being tied down. And don’t overlap the hide, keep it side by side. When you get up to the cone you might want to do one more turn to get the hair to push up into the cone. Step 5. Now cut the excess off and make a few more turns securing it. Whip finish the fly. I also add some glue and try to get it up into the cone.

Barr's Slumpbuster Recipe Hook: Tiemco 5263/5252, size 2-8 Thread: UTC 140 (black) Cone: Tungsten Wire: Medium UTC (black) Body: Sparkle Braid (rainbow) Wing: Pine Squirrel (black) Tying Instructions: Step 1. Slide the bead on. Step 2. Tie the thread in at the front and wind to the bend. Advance the thread back up. Step 3. Tie in the wire and sparkle braid with the wire being first and the braid. As you wind to the bend I like to keep the wraps close together to form a nice thread base. Step 4. Make a few turns in the back to really lock in the material. Advance the thread back up, but not all the way up to the cone because you will make a collar with the strip as well. Notice where I stopped. Step 5. Measure the tail a little shorter then the hook shank and split it to be tied in. You can also wet your fingers to keep the hair separated so it doesn't get in the way when tying it in. Once you've tied it down lift the strip up and tie right in front of it with a few wraps and then advance the thread back up. Step 6. Wrap the sparkle braid all the way up to the cone. Tie it off and cut the excess. Then add a small amount of Zap-a-gap inside the cone. I tilt the hook down just a bit to make sure the glue stays going in that direction instead of getting on the braid. Don't leave it tilted to long or it will run out the front towards the eye. And go light on how much glue you add. Step 7. Fold the strip over and tie it down with a few turns of thread. Step 8. Now wrap the wire in between the hair, but when doing this step take your time and wiggle the wire as your wrapping up. This will help keep the hair from being tied down. If you find yourself having difficulty with this step then practice it a few times. Make the spaces the same as you wind up. Step 9. Make one full turn around with the strip to form the collar and tie it off and cut the excess. Make some wraps securing it all down and whip finish the fly. Glue the head that's inside of the cone. Finish Product!!

Pure Midge Larvea Recipe: Hook: Tiemco 2457,2488,2499 Thread: UTC 70 (olive) or color you desire Body: Clear Micro Tubbing (stretch) Head: Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Tying Instructions: Step 1. Start the thread right behind the eye. Step 2. Cut about six inches of micro tubing and tie it in at the front. Step 3. Now tie the tubing to the bend. Stretch the tubing as you wind to the back. Advance the thread back up to the eye. Step 4. Go ahead and cut the tubing off the front. I add a little tension on the tubing as I make the cut so I don't have a little tag end after I make the cut. Step 5. Wrap the tubing forward over the thread base with each wrap touching the next. Tie the tubing off just behind the eye. Step 6. Coat the thread head with a layer of hard as nails.

Adult Dragon Fly Recipe: Hook: Mustad signature R50, size 10 Thread: Monofilament .006 Tail: Hareline Damsel Body Body: SLF Standard (color to match body) Wing: Hareline Medallion Sheeting (Clear) Eyes: Mono eyes Tying Instructions: Step 1. Start the thread in the back. You might have to make more turns then you would with regular thread because it’s not a waxed thread and won’t adhere the hook shank. What I do is wind back over the mono with enough turns to be able to let go of the bobbin and it hangs there. Then cut the tag end off. The bodies are sold by Hareline and come in three colors which are maroon, blue, and olive. Step 2. Tie in the tail and measure it about three times the length of the hook shank. Tie in the eye making figure eights to really secure it. Just remember to judge the size of the eye according to the proportion of the fly. Wrap the mono back to the bend of the hook. Now you’re ready to add some dubbing. Step 3. Dub the body about 2/3 of the hook shank. The key is to not have the wings be tied in directly in the middle of the hook shank. You want them to be a little past the middle of the hook shank. Step 4. Cut a strip to be two inches in length and 1/4 of an inch wide. Step 5. Tie it in directly in the center and do about three figure eights around it. You can adjust the wings once you make a full figure eight if they don’t look exactly right from tying them in. Step 6. Pull up on the wings and make a cut in a angle like you see in the picture. This is what I’ve found to be an easy step when rounding of the ends of the wings. Step 7. Now trim the other side it an angle and then round it off. You’ll have to do these individually to be more accurate when making the cut. Step 8. Dub the rest of the fly. Do figure eights between the wings and the eyes as well. You shouldn’t have to make any wraps of dubbing in front of the eyes. Just the one that will finish the figure eight between the eyes. Step 9. Whip finish the fly and glue the head.

Gulley Worm Recipe: Hook: Gamakatsu Style # 65113, size 1/0,2/0,3/0 Thread: .006 Monofilament Body: Three strands of ice Chenille (Large) Tail: 2mm Foam (color to match body) Tying Instructions: Step 1. They’re will be a total of three strands. The two that are the main color and then one strand adding some color. I’m doing an easy one just to get you use to tying these. They also make these where at the end of the tail it’s just one color. This is done by adding two strands and cutting off the main strands as you add a strand of the color you want to be the (fire) tail. Step 2. Now depending on how long you want your worm to be is going to determine on how long the strands will be. I cut mine to about five inches long. This step is real simple. Your going to braid these like you would a pony tail. So if you don’t know how I guess these step will be difficult. I would ask someone who knows how, that’s what I did. I won’t get into the fire tail with just the tail being one color instead of it being two all the way down. I’ll have to do that one with a video which will be later on. Step 3. After you’ve braided it to the desired length cut the excess off. Now at the end of the tail tie in some mono and secure the material from coming apart. I also add a drop of Zap-A-Gap just to make sure. Don’t go crazy on the glue because the epoxy will fix that. Step 4. Tie on the mono and wind to the bend. Cut the tag off. Step 5. Now the ends that you took out of the vise are loose. That’s fine because you’re going to tie them on the hook shank. When tying this down make sure the braid is what is hanging off the hook and not the loose ends. You want it to be as durable as it can so the braid needs to be strong in the back. Step 6. Grab one strand of each color and measure them to be about three inches in length. Tie them in on the hook shank. I tie mine a little past where I tied in the tail. Tie them to the bend. It’s ok to wrap over the other stands you tied in to be the tail. Step 7. This step is simple. All you have to do is start twisting them together until it looks like the tail. Step 8. Advance the thread back up to the eye. If the weed guard is in the way then push it forward to keep it out of the way. Step 9. Wrap the chenille up to the eye. Step 10. Cut the excess off. Step 11. With some curved shank scissors cut a tail to look like what you see in the picture. Step 12. How I attach my tail is putting a drop of zap-a-gap right at the end of the tail and but the foam tail right up to it. This will hold it until you apply the epoxy. Step 13. This is entirely up to you, but I like to add some glitter in the epoxy to give a little more flash to the tail. Step 14. Add a smooth coat over the whole tail and even on the thread where you tied off the chenille. This should dry fairly quick if your using 5-minute epoxy. Step 15. Attach the weed guard back and you're ready to get on those bass beds during the spawn.