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RSBreth

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  1. RSBreth
    A jig is simply a hook with some weight added and hair, feathers, or some synthetic material tied to it. It's one of the oldest lures in the world, for all species of fish, freshwater or salt. As far as modern bass fishing goes, the "jig and pig" was just some rubber stranded skirt material on a weedless leadhead jig, and preserved pork skin trailer. Flipped into heavy cover, crawled along drop offs or even retrieved steadily to "swim" it, it remains a staple of every bass fisherman to this day. When I was a wee bass caster in my early teens, the jig'n'pig craze was in full swing, and I vividly remember one of my brothers catching some nice bass on it back in the day. When I was old enough to buy my own tackle, I was caught up in one tackle fad or another, and was either throwing a finesse worm or tube to cover where others were throwing jigs. Or maybe fishing a Slug-O, floating worm, or even using a fly rod. I was really into finesse fishing, and except for spinnerbaits, rarely picked up a baitcaster. At any rate, I never really got into regular old bass jigs. I tied and fished hair jigs a bit, but that's about it.

    This changed when I moved to the Ozarks. It wasn't a short time after I was here that I was fishing with someone on the James River. I was really into fly gear at the time, and was using my 8 weight and a Clouser minnow. The water was still warmish, a little off color from some much needed rain, and I think it was early October. I couldn't get a bite to save my life. My host was creaming me by casting a funny looking little jig into pockets just off the current and letting that lure just sit. The bass would come over and pick it up. I asked to see it after a bit, it had cut collar skirt, small craw trailer, on a small ball head. It really did look like a crawfish. "Eakins Jig", he said. I had seen the Strike King "Bitsy Bug" and some other compact or small jigs, but this one really had it all tied together. The Eakins clan is still a force on regional tournaments, largely propelled by the use of their namesake jig. Because of that day and many other experiences over the years, I've come to realize that when bass are foraging on crawfish in the Ozarks, you better have a finesse jig.

    Two Eakins 3/16 ounce jigs, one with Berkley PowerBait Craw(top) and Smallie Beaver(bottom).

    The finesse jig is a result of clear water conditions in our Ozark lakes, combined with the almost constant fishing pressure from weekend guys to guides to national pro tours. When fish get pressured, sometimes you have to out fish the other fishermen. Something a little more compact, a little more natural looking, has it all over a traditional sized bass jig. What makes the finesse of a finesse jig? I think it's the combination of compact size (not necessarily weight), and a small matching trailer. There are different head shapes for different uses, as we will see. Pitched under docks, drug across pea gravel, or swam along rip-rap, if you don't use them, you are missing fish.
    So let's at the makeup of finesse jigs, and see what qualities it needs for different uses.
    First, the skirt. The cut collar popular on pitching jigs does three things: It thins the skirt by half, making the trailer more visible, helps slow the fall rate of the jig, like a small parachute, and lastly, it just looks "right".
    There are several jigs on the market that I like to cut the skirt, "converting" them. Both the Strike King Bitsy Bug and Booyah Baby Boo jig have standard skirts, but "make the cut" well. The 1/8 ounce Bitsy Bug is really great paired up with a small craw for stream smallmouth (and has scored my biggest Goggle-Eye), but does have only a small 8 fiber weed guard not suitable for heavy cover. The 3/16 Baby Boo is my favorite finesse jig, used for stream smallmouth and dock skipping, but I think the hook could be one size smaller. That's just me, on the 5/16 version it's just right.

    Strike King Bitsy Bug and Booyah Baby Boo, after trimming the skirts.

    Finesse jigs now come in many weights and sizes.

    Not every jig has the cut collar, and not all of them should. The Tom Monsoor swim jig available at Bas Pro comes in some good colors, has an awesome Owner hook, and is compact with a thin but nice skirt in many colors. Just because it says "Swim jig" doesn't mean you can't pitch it. I haven't used this one yet, but will this summer.

    Another famous father - son duo from the Ozarks, Guido and Dion Hibdon, have racked up numerous tournament wins, one of the most recent was the elder Hibdons' win on Lake Champlain event of the FLW series. After doing well for the first days of the event on a bigger football jig, he cinched the win by skipping his namesake Luck "E" Strike finesse jig backed with a Guido Bug trailer under docks.

    The light single wire weed guard on the Eakins Spider Jig and the double wire on the Terminator Finesse jig help keep light cover at bay, like when pitched to a specific spot, then retrieved. They aren't for heavy timber, or skipping where a forceful skip could knock the wires off center, making it easy to snag around dock hardware. I have twice skipped a Terminator Finesse into a dock float and had it stick like a dart! I've never had that happen with either the Eakins or Baby Boo.
    The Booyah Baby Boo comes in 3/16 and 5/16 of an ounce, has a weed guard that can be trimmed down, and a slightly upturned pointed head that come though cover well.
    You can probably tell I like these a lot. The Bitsy Bug has a similar head, but a much thinner weed guard. I only use it around thin cover, or it hangs up easily. The wildly popular Eakins has a ball head with 60 degree cross eye. According to the Eakins, the design is made mostly to pitch in a spot, jiggle it a little and reel it back. I have found this to be true, it comes over pea gravel and small rock well, but falls over and gets hung a little more than other designs in timber. A few more compact jigs have a Football head, which is great for dragging on a rocky bottom, but not so good in timber.

    Last but not least, the trailer is not just a part of the jig, but probably the most important part. I think the skirt is really just dressing for the trailer. A small plastic craw is traditional, and there are a lot of them out there. Yamamoto, Eakins, Berkley, on and on. Usually it's recommended to pinch off enough of the tail of the trailer so that the hook comes out just between or behind the eyes on your craw. I sometime let it dangle just a touch more, but either way find what looks right to you.

    You have to pinch off a little of your trailer sometimes, don't be afraid to experiment.

    Some other trailers are also good. I like the small beaver baits for a trailer in cases where you just need a little more bulk. One case is if current or wind cause you to not be in touch with the lure at all times. Fish tend to hold on longer to these bulked up jigs. Another is if you want more of a spiraling glide, instead of a straight fall.

    Some good trailers, from the traditional craws to chunks and beaver baits. Don't forget a simple grub, either.

    The 3" PowerBait Beast from Berkley is the widest of the smaller sized beavers, and matched with a 3/16 Baby Boo is a real killer when that spiraling fall is the trigger fish want. Conversely, if fish have been hitting the jigs right on the bottom, a heavier head and small bodied trailer will get you back down to the strike zone in a hurry. Sometimes a different silhouette from the normal craw trailers is the ticket, so other small creature baits, like the popular Brush Hogs from Zoom, or even just a tiny chunk can be better if everyone is using the same type trailer where you fish. For swimming a jig, a double tail grub can be the most snag proof since it tends to keep the jig upright, but even a plain single tail grub can be a great trailer. The Baby Boo 5/16 in white with a pearl 5" Kalins grub has been my favorite swim jig for the past three years, but the whole topic of swimming jigs will be another story. Just experiment with size and keep colors mostly natural, adding contrasting highlights for off color water. I like orange or purple, but even chartreuse tips work.

    O.K., tackle comes down to mostly older tech versus new tech. Most tournament guys use baitcasters in the 6' 6" to 7' range in medium to med/heavy power range, fast action. Usually spooled with fluorocarbon from 10 to 14 pounds. Most stream smallmouth fanatics use spinning rods of similar power and action, but spool 6 to 10 pound line, flouro or mono. I kind of split the difference with two favorite setups of mine, for small 1/8 or 3/16 ounce jigs I have a new Team Diawa 6' 6" medium heavy, fast action spinning rod spooled with 6/14 Fireline. I use 10 or 12 lb. fluorocarbon leaders about 7 or 8 foot long, tied together with back to back uni knots. This rod has a softer more "medium" tip, and is a new favorite for dock skipping. My heavier rod is a BPS Extreme 7 foot medium heavy spinning stick spooled with the same 6/14 Fireline, but almost always use 14 pound or heavier Flouro leaders. This is a fast action rod with lots of backbone, just like a 7' baitcaster pitching stick. I mostly use it for around heavy cover, or for the more weighty compact jigs in deep water. Why the spinning rods? Because of hand injuries and tendonitis I can only palm a baitcaster for so long, and I can only carry so many rods, and they are a little more versatile for me than a baitcaster, especially when it comes to casting light lures in the wind. The Diawa combo also works to pitch a Texas rigged plastic with a 1/16 ounce bullet weight, or skip a 1/8 ounce shaky head rig. I know there are guys who can really skip with casting gear, but I'm not one of them! The heavier 7' combo is also great for light Carolina rigs with 1/4 to 1/2 ounce weights, which is a killer for pre spawn smallies on the flat pea gravel banks on Table Rock or Beaver.

    If you haven't tried finesse jigs yet, get a couple this year. If you fish stream smallmouth, try the 1/8 or 3/16 ounce versions around boulders and root balls, and you Table Rock guys will love the slightly bigger 5/16 ounce size for fishing around bluff banks and pitching to docks or brush piles. Like any lure, they aren't magic, but some times they can seem like it! Just try them, pick colors you like, experiment, and fish with confidence.
  2. RSBreth
    Modern minnow shaped lures are called stickbaits, slashbaits, jerkbaits, or often by the name of a popular brand or model such as Rapala or Rogue. I'll call them all jerkbaits whether they're floating, suspending, or sinking just to make it simple. The first popular lure of this kind was the original Rapala Minnow. It was such a success it made Rapala a world wide brand. Now available in many different sizes and colors and even jointed models, it remains a popular and effective lure. Success like that is bound to be copied, so today there are many different brands that make a similar lure, but it took the ingenuity of an Ozarks fisherman to take it to the next level. Somewhere in the late 60's or early 70's, someone doctored up a Rapala with added lead weight where it would suspend in the water, neutrally buoyant, where it wouldn't sink or float back up. Looking like a stunned, dying, or just not paying attention baitfish, these lures are dynamite on cold weather Bass in our clear Ozark reservoirs. There are now dozens of these suspending lures by different manufacturers, no tinkering required. Well, a tiny bit of tinkering, but we'll get to that in a minute, let's move on to some tips and tactics for using these lures for all three Bass species in our Ozark Reservoirs.

    My favorite time to fish for Bass at Table Rock is from right after the Holidays (early January) through prespawn (mid April), and the main reason is the suspending jerkbait bite. I love the fishing style, and the solitude- the fact that you may catch the biggest bass of the year while everyone else hasn't even thought of getting their boat out of winter storage. One more thing, bass may or may not "school up" in winter, but groups of them are often attracted to the same type of structure or cover in winter, giving you the chance of scoring multiple fish when you locate them. There are experienced fishermen who don't believe how good it can be, or they're just put off by the cold. Either way, you often have the lake to yourself.

    The very beginning of this period typically has the coldest water temperatures of the year. There may even be ice in some of the coves protected from the wind. Bass may only feed sporadically during this time, if at all. What you are waiting for is a warming trend. It doesn't have to be more than several days of warm and sunny weather to warm the water by a few degrees. It may not seem like much, but a rise in the water temperature of only a couple of degrees is enough to spur some feeding activity. It doesn't have to be sunny, I've had great success when a low pressure system has stalled out and made it cloudy for several days in a row, keeping the night time temperatures mild, rather than the crisp clear nights with temperatures below freezing. A warm rain can get the fish going if it doesn't muddy the water up too much, but that's usually more of a factor close to the spawn, any precipitation we receive in January or February tends to be the frozen kind! When the water is in the low 40's feeding activity can be hard to predict, but as it increases toward 50-degrees you can bet after 2 or 3 days of a warming trend fish will suspend near cover, and hit a properly presented jerkbait. By properly presented, I mean it has to suspend perfectly. It can't float up or sink even slightly, it has to suspend like it has it's own perfectly tuned swim bladder. Thankfully lure manufacturers have many different models that suspend pretty well right out of the box. Rapala XRaps tend to float up in the very coldest water, which is fine, because you can add weight to most lures to get them to work perfectly. The more "Boutique" lures like Lucky Craft Pointers suspend almost perfectly, but even older mainstays like the Rapala Husky Jerk and Smithwick Suspending Rogue can easily be "tuned" by adding weight.. The two easiest methods of adding weight are Storm stick-on Suspen-Dots and Suspen-Strips, and lead flytying wire or rolled 50/50 solder. Some fisherman swap hooks out with bigger, heavier sizes. Screwing around with split ring pliers and spare hooks in the cold isn't much fun, you can adjust weight with lead much easier and get it exactly right in far less time.



    You'll have to try the lure at boat side to see how it suspends. Cast it out 15 feet or so and reel it in just close enough where you can clearly see it, then watch as long as you can stand it. A lure that floats up very slightly isn't too hard to see, but ones that barely sink are subtle and hard to spot without staring at them for what seems like an eternity out there in the gray winter cold. Luckily, this time of year there aren't to many folks around to see you blankly casting a lure a few feet from the boat and peering at it for a long time. If a lure sinks pretty quickly in 40-degree water, I take it back. You can always add weight to lures that float up, but I haven't had much success with ones that sink quickly in cold water. In very warm water most suspenders sink slightly which is fine because you tend to work them faster in warm water, but that's a subject we'll get to later.

    Now, how to add the right amount of weight? Using either stick on weights or lead wire winds up being a trail and error affair. Lead wire is the easiest, I usually try a piece about 2-inches long stuck through the front hook hanger and twisted once, cast it out, and remove lead as needed until it suspends perfectly. After you're satisfied it's right, wrap the lead around the hook shank. You can use a dap of superglue to help hold it in place. Stick on lead is a little more tricky, dry the part of the lure right behind the bill before you stick the weight on, and either stick more on, or use a knife to cut small pieces off as needed to get it right. Again, after you get it right, a dab of superglue will hold it in place a little better.

    With all three Black Bass species in most of our lakes, there are many different places to try these lures in late Winter. Rockslides on bluffs, bluff ends, deeper rip-rap banks, floating docks over deep water, basically more vertical structure with some kind of cover. Deep banks that "stair step" with ledges in smaller creeks just off the main lake can be good, especially if they face South and are protected from North winds, have floating docks, or both. Large isolated cedar trees, especially on steeper banks are another good place. These lures don't run very deep, but properly presented have the ability to draw Bass up from the depths. One day last March three Spotted Bass came straight up from deeper water and attack my lure vertically, drawn out of their cedar tree in 40-foot of water. Just don't get locked into thinking all Bass are deep during Winter. I've caught fish in less than 15-feet of water in January and February on chunk rock and pea gravel flats near main lake points. To fish a specific piece of cover (tree, boat dock, large boulder) cast beyond it and work the lure with downward jerks of the rod tip until it gets close, then stop it. Let it sit. Keep your line almost tight, but try not to move it. Maybe add a small twitch after 30 seconds. Experiment with how long you wait between twitches, the rule of thumb being colder water equals longer time between twitches. Sometimes fish will move long distances to hit a lure, and others you have to almost snag in in a tree. I experiment with how far away from cover I let it sit, trying to get a pattern nailed down. After I've let it sit in a spot and twitched it a few times, I work it along for another 20- or 30- feet and before stopping it again. You'll read of people casting a lure out, then lighting up a cigarette and smoking it before moving the lure again. That's a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea. For covering water, experiment with how far between pauses you stop. You can cover an area faster than you'd think with a jerkbait, even with long pauses.

    Sometimes strikes are the " rip the rod out your hand" types, and others are subtle. Sometimes a fish will mouth a bait and swim at you, your only clue the line going totally slack. If the wind is calm, the water is usually so clear that you can watch your bait as it get's closer to the boat. Polarized sunglasses are a must for fishing these lures. There's been days where I never feel them hit, but I do see the lure disappear, or a small flash of a fish turning as it takes a swipe at it. I've tried attractant sprays, thinking maybe the fish will hang on longer, but I'm not sure if it makes a difference. You do need sensitivity to feel what's going on down there when you can't see your lure, so you need low stretch line. I've used fluorocarbon, but nothing beats superlines like FireLine or PowerPro for sensitivity. For most of my jerkbaits I use a 7-foot medium power/fast action spinning rod paired with a spinning reel spooled with 4/10 FireLine. I use a 10-pound test fluorocarbon leader about 8- to 10 foot long tied to the superline with a blood knot. I remove the split rings on my lures and use a snap tied to the end of the fluorocarbon leader to attach the lures both for easy lure changes and better action. Some guys use shorter rods, or baitcasting gear. To be honest, whatever you are comfortable with will probably work. I like the ease of fishing spinning gear when I have gloves on, and a with my long arms a 7' rod works great for me from the deck of even a low profile boat. A spinning combo puts the weight of the reel under the rod, just hanging there, the tendonitis in my rod arm more manageable with that instead of palming a baitcaster all day. A longer rod also helps rocket casts far from the boat, which can help get more strikes in the crystal clear waters of the White River chain of lakes.



    It's said the original suspending bait was either A Rebel Spoonbill, a Rapala, or a Smithwick Rogue, depending on who you talk to. I've tried to pin that down for a couple of years and got really nothing to show for it. Does it really matter? There are so many great suspending lures these days, it's almost hard to choose. Starting with the more expensive models, Lucky Craft Pointers are considered top of the heap by many, I just can't justify the price to buy very many of them.

    Lucky Craft Jerkbaits

    There are other exotic lures that are available, but the only one I've used was the Diawa TD Minnow. It runs a little more shallow than most of the others listed here.

    Diawa TD Minnow

    One I have used quite a bit the past couple of years is the XCaliber XS4. It looks kind of like a Smithwick Rogue, but has a weight transfer system that helps casting in the wind, fantastic hooks, and great colors. In fact, for the coldest water, I'd have to call it my number 1 choice.

    XS4 Stickbait

    Rapala has two great suspending lures. One of the first factory made suspenders, the Husky Jerk, is a classic. It comes in tiny Trout/Panfish sizes, and all the way up to models for Pike/Musky. The #10 size is still a favorite jerkbait for Smallmouths and Spotted Bass when they're little finicky. The other Rapala model, the XRap, has become a huge success for the company. Meant to compete against the higher dollar Japanese baits, it's really well made, but affordable. Last time I bought one it was less than 7.00$. Now available in 3 sizes, shallow and deep diving, and lots of good colors, you can't go wrong.

    Rapala XRap
    Rapala Husky Jerk

    The Smithwick Rogue Suspending Rattlin' Rogue is one of my most used jerkbaits. It's inexpensive, it comes in some good colors, and it just works. Any time I want to stick a lure right in submerged tree, it gets the call. That might also be why I catch so many good fish on it, I'm not afraid to lose one. Maybe because of the price point these lures sometimes require more tinkering to get them right, but for less than 5 bucks a pop, who do you want?

    Smithwick Suspending Rogues.

    For colors on these lures I've experimented with lot's of different things, but I like a general rule of bright day (sunny) I use bright lures. One pattern that works for me is blue back/silver sides/orange belly. The XS4, Rogue, and Husky Jerk are all available in this color. The XRap isn't, but you can color the belly of the blue pattern model with an orange Sharpie like I do. One color that Rapala should make the XRap in is "Purpledescent". They offer it in other lures, but not the XRap. I email them all the time about it. They probably have my email blocked by now.
    One color that's popular is purple back/chartreuse sides/white belly. I've colored some Rogues like this, and some days they really worked, others not so much."Clown" is another bright pattern lot's of folks like, and I like it too. On cloudy days, I like a more natural, translucent color. Of course, this isn't written in stone. I know someone who uses bright chartreuse almost exclusively and really nails them, but I can't seem to get them to hit that color except when the water is cloudy, so go figure. Don't be afraid to use some Sharpies or highlighter pens, you never know if you'll find the right custom color that really works.

    As the water gets into the 50-degree range and rising, fish start responding to a little more "jerk" in the jerkbait. I like to start out working the lure just a little faster than I think will work, just to see if the fish are "turned on". You can always slow it down of deadstick it beside cover if you aren't getting any reaction from a faster retrieve. A lure that sinks slightly here is not a bad thing if you are working the lure faster, it can even help you get a little deeper retrieve, sinking on the pause between jerks. All through the pre-spawn different retrieves and pauses should be experimented with, you just never know how the fish will react on any given day, and don't think that the fish will always hit a jerkbait during early prespawn, I've had several slow days that I turned around by using a shaky head or grub near or on the bottom. If you're fishing with a buddy, I can't think of a better way to locate active fish early in the year than have one person throw a jerkbait and the other follow up with a grub swam near bottom, covering most of the water column.

    As it gets closer to the spawn, just because the water is above a certain temperature or it's after a certain date, don't think it about putting the jerkbait down until you try it. I fished a tournament on April 1st a couple of years ago, and I got a funny look from my partner when I started throwing a Rogue. After I started catching fish on it, he commented that "I didn't think those worked unless it was winter." It was the only thing I could get them to hit in practice, and it was the only thing that worked that day. Even though the water temp was near 60-degrees, the fish wanted that bait to sit there motionless for 30-seconds or more, move it faster and they wouldn't touch it.

    I don't pester spawning fish, so I can't tell you if jerkbaits will catch bedding fish, but I do know that when they are done and move out from their spawning areas and scatter, one of the best lures to fish is still a jerkbait. Through summer and into fall anytime you can't get a topwater bit going try the jerkbait. There are good floating models that have a little more action, but suspenders work great for our deeper lakes. I have several spots on Beaver Lake I hit early in the morning for a topwater bite, and some days that bite can be stretched out a little further into the morning by trying a jerkbait in the same places. Some days the fish just won't come up to hit topwaters, and the jerkbait is the answer there, too. Just experiment with the cadence of the jerk-jerk-pause. I find myself turning to a suspending bait in the middle of summer to fish a key spot I just know has a fish on it. I use the same method as the one for cold water fishing, deadsticking it beside the cover for as long as I can stand it. There are prominent spots that get hit hard that I still manage to pluck a fish from doing this. (think Kimberling City Bridge) Sometimes wave action from all the summer boat traffic makes keeping contact with your lure impossible, and a slip-float rig with a realistic PowerBait or Gulp lure is the answer for suspended fish, but that's different topic.

    You can see jerkbaits don't get left at home, they're always on my boat. Maybe during Summer and Fall I use them less at Table Rock or Beaver, but that will bring us to part 2 of this series: Jerkbaits for river Bass. My favorite time for river Smallmouth is Summer/Fall, and the fish like an aggressive, power fishing technique like ripping a jerkbait.




  3. RSBreth
    I finally posted the Smallmouth Flyfishing article at my site:
    http://ozarkoutdoorjournal.blogspot.com/20...-for-ozark.html
    I still don't know what to do with this blog, and to be honest, the amount of traffic showing up at my blogspot blog has me thinking about an actual .com domain, but I barely have time to fish these days, let alone write much about it.
    Who knew working and taking care of a 2-year old would take up so much time? Oh yeah, everyone. I really need to buy a cheap digital video camera, and start making my own outdoor show, you don't even need public access or any of that anymore, just post on YouTube or using a host like Photobucket. If the day had 30 hours in it...
  4. RSBreth
    Rock Bass A. K. A. "Goggle-Eyes"

    I grew up in central Kansas, so just like countless other youngsters the first fish I caught entirely by myself was a Bluegill. There are few things in life that remain pure, simple fun, but I think catching some panfish on light spinning or fly tackle may be one of the last. As I grew up I read about Rock Bass, but never caught one when I had visited the Ozarks due to the fact I was usually Trout fishing on the White or at Taneycomo during those trips. It wasn't until I moved to Springfield that I caught my first Rocky. I was fishing a small Clouser Deep Minnow at the tailwaters access for Lake Springfield, which is the James River. I was just killing some time, wet wading, and catching a few pint-sized Smallmouth and assorted Sunfish, when the line pulled tight, I set the hook, then when I pulled it in I realized it was a Rock Bass. I caught several more that day and had a great time, and I still really like catching these little guys, so let's take a closer look at these often overlooked fish.

    I did a long (and sometimes fruitless) Internet search, referred to my copy of "Fishes of Missouri" and as it turns out, found an older post on OzarkAnglers.com where Al Agnew summed it up better than anything else I found, but as I understand it, there are several different species in the Ozarks we commonly refer to as "Rock Bass". The northern Rock Bass, native to the Meremac River system, the Ozark Bass, native to the White River system, and the Shadow Bass, which was native to the rest of the Ozark drainages. A similar fish, the Warmouth, was native but rare in Ozark rivers, but are now more common in the large reservoirs. Many locals still call of them "Goggle Eyes", but just to simplify things here, I'll call them Rock Bass, or "Rockies". They all have similar habits, diet, and you catch them all the same way.

    One thing I ran across on my research was the entry on Wikipedia : "All species of rock bass are considered garbage fish and are unpopular with sustenance and sport fishermen." Huh? This is only one of the entries on the popular site that clashes with reality, because most folks in the Ozarks consider a platter of breaded and fried Rock Bass traditional after a float trip. They are good eating , too. The firm, flaky flesh is somewhere between the milder Crappie on one side, and the more nutty flavor of Bluegills on the other. In general, Rock Bass from our streams are safe to eat, it's the longer lived Black Bass that are problematic as far as the biggest widespread problem we face-mercury. See the news release from the Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services for the full report HERE: http://www.dhss.mo.gov/fishadvisory/

    So… fun to catch, good to eat, wide spread across the Ozarks, and accessible to nearly every one. Now, how do you go out and catch a bunch of them?
    Most Rock Bass are caught as a happy accident while fishing for Smallmouth, but to target them specifically calls for a little lighter tackle. Some folks like to use the same little 4'6" or 5' rods paired with a tiny spinning reels they use at Bennet Springs or Roaring River for trout. I call these little combos "Pea Shooters". Fly anglers could be tempted to use that special little 6- or 7- foot 3 weight rod they bought for Crane Creek. I take a slightly different direction, and like longer rods for both spinning and fly. All else being equal, longer rods help cushion light line better than short ones, this usually isn't important until you hook a 3-pound Smallmouth under a log where you expected a 12-ounce Rocky, but still, longer sticks also help with line control in current, with fly gear you'll notice the difference between a 7-foot rod and a 8 footer immediately.

    For spinning tackle, my current favorite is the 7' Medium/Light Microlight rod from Bass Pro paired with an older Quantum reel spooled with 3/8 Fireline, and I usually use a 6-pound test fluorocarbon leader about 8-foot long, but I step it up to 8-pound when I'm fishing where it's likely to hook a bigger Smallmouth. What I like best about this rod is that it has just enough backbone to set the hook through small Texas-rigged plastics and fight good sized Smallmouths, but isn't so stiff that it won't let the little guys show off. It's also a great small creek trout rod, and doesn't cost more than 40.00 dollars. I have more expensive rods, but this one gets used more. For fly tackle, if you have a nice 8- to 9- foot rod in 4- or 5-weight you're set. Since the most effective flies for Rock Bass are sinking models (we'll get to fly selection in a minute) a longer rod helps with line control, and just like spinning tackle it helps cushion the strain on lighter line you'll use for your tippets, which should be 4 or 5x. My pick is an old IM6 Fenwick 9' medium action that casts a 5-weight line much better than the 6-weight it's rated for. This rod is a sentimental favorite usually reserved for fishing small dry flies like size 20 midges at Taney, but it's great for panfish, too. For kids, simple spin casting outfits will work great when using live bait or one of the prepared, scented baits like Berkley Gulp. Keep it simple for beginners.

    It's probably easier to list what lures don't work for Rock Bass than narrow down all the choices in lures and bait that do, but to put things perspective, I found this bit of information in a story by Bob Distefano in the in the February 2006 Missouri Department of Conservation News, online edition: "During the 1990s, Conservation Department biologists examined the stomach contents of more than 25,000 smallmouth bass and goggle-eyes on portions of the Jacks Fork and Big Piney rivers that were managed especially for those species. They found that crayfish make up more than 60 percent of smallmouth bass food and 78 percent of goggle-eye food. The great majority of the crayfish consumed were medium-sized, not large or small. In short, crayfish are the fuel on which Ozarks smallmouth and goggle-eye fisheries run." So if a fish loves crawfish, and crawfish tend to live on the bottom, keeping your lures on or near the bottom will be the key to success. I've caught Rockies on topwaters, but only in very shallow water, and I've caught them on hard and soft jerkbaits, but bottom bouncing crankbaits, small jigs, and smaller soft plastics worked close to the bottom are going to get you bit more often, and by bigger fish.


    Upper left: Three unnamed flies. Rabbit strip tail, some marabou, heavy lead eyes.
    Bottom Row: Bomber Fat A, Smallie Beaver, Bitsy Bug-1/8-ounce with Salty Craw trailer.
    Right: Zoom C-tail, Renegade 4" curly tails in Motor Oil and Electric Blue.
    Center: Gulp Mini Earthworms.

    My favorite lure day in and day out is small natural colored 4-inch action tailed worms, either Texas rigged with small wide gap hook and 1/16- or 1/8-ounce bullet weight, or a similar sized jig head for more open areas. Zoom makes two great ones, the C- Tail worm, and the brand new one called the "Shaky Tail". Under the store brand Renegade, Walmart carries good, cheap 4- and 6-inch curl tail worms that come in assorted colors. Another great lure any Smallmouth fisherman knows is the tube. Bass sized tubes can be a little big, but several smaller 3-inch tubes are out there, from Zoom to Yamamoto to Bass Pros' store brand. Strike King had two tubes slimmer than their current Bitsy Tube that were perfect, but sadly aren't made anymore. A similar but different bait is the Yamamoto "Ika" which has a tenticle like tail similar to a tube, but the body is solid, allowing less weight to reach bottom. The smaller beaver baits are also excellent. All of these work so good for Rock Bass you'd be crazy not to use them. Small grubs are another favorite, as are small crawfish colored crankbaits. One overlooked lure is a small finesse jig, like the smallest Eakins or Bitsy Bug from Strike King. Back these with a tiny craw trailer, or the smallest pork chunk for targeting bigger fish. I've tried the small plastic craws by themselves, but usually just get the pinchers ripped off by tiny fish for some reason.

    For flies, there are a few crawfish imitations out here, but I have had better luck with more impressionistic flies versus realistic patterns. Darker weighted Wooley Buggers, Clouser Minnows, and any of the more heavily weighted grub type flies on the market will work. One good example of this type of fly is Whitlocks' Scorpion. One thing that should work that I haven't tried yet is the same type of dark colored micro-jig and strike indicator rig popular at Taneycomo. Maybe tip it with a tiny piece of Powerbait. If someone tries this, let me now how it works.

    Just like Bluegills, Crappies, and (gasp!) Trout, Rock Bass are a great fish for beginners because you can easily catch them with bait under a float. In faster water it requires more precision with weighting and float placement than most of the anglers that look down on bait fishing would admit, but in calmer water, yes, it can be pretty easy fishing. A small clip-on float, a couple of split-shot, and a small baitholder hook is all you need. What kind of bait works best? Nightcrawlers are still probably the most popular and small live crawfish come to mind but usually require catching your own, minnows work, but also require some way to care for them, so for when I take someone fishing and use bait, it's one of the new, scented prepared baits. Both Foodsource and Berkley have products that don't require refrigeration, work fantastic, and come in many different shapes. Both have small earthworms that work excellent, I may be a little more partial to the Gulp product, but I have used the Foodsource 3" worms and liked them, too. Don't let fish run with any of these lures, they are appealing enough to fish that they will swallow them just like live bait, so set the hook as soon as the float starts going under or moving off. A youngster or new fisherman should have no problem catching a few without all the mess of regular live bait.

    O. K., where do you find Rock Bass in our streams? Almost anywhere a piece of cover breaks current, Rock Bass could be there. But if you look at their body shape, they aren't as streamlined as Smallmouth, so they don't sit in water as fast as Mr. Brown Bass does. So instead of looking at the top of a pool, prime Rock Bass cover is more towards the middle, calmer section. Boulder slides, rootballs and submerged timber, and anything else that is cover probably has everything they want. I have found a few "Rock Bass holes" as I call them on the upper Finley near my place in Ozark. These are pools that are simply full of Rock Bass, but rarely have any big Smallmouth in them. All tend to be a little smaller, shallower, and less complex than the best Smallmouth spots. Is that because the Rock Bass like slightly different cover, or is it a reaction to bigger Smallmouth preying on them or driving them away while foraging so they seek out pools absent of the bigger predator? I'm not sure, but it's something to keep in mind while scouting.

    Do you want to catch big Rock Bass? Go Smallmouth fishing. Seriously, my biggest Rockies have all come to my canoe while I was trying to catch Smallmouth. I do know if I was going to try to break the current record of 2-pounds 12-ounces, I would probably go with my favorite little 3/16-ounce Baby Boo Bug finesse jig. While Smallmouth fishing, I usually catch one or two 10-inch plus Rock Bass while using that jig. I use shaky head worms a lot these days, and really catch them on that, too. Third choice would be those small crawfish colored cranks. Rock Bass just love to whack 'em.

    But for me, catching Rock Bass isn't something I'm going to make too complicated or serious. One of these long summer days, I'm thinking my not-quite 2-year old son will reel in his first fish, and I'm pretty sure it's going to be a Rock Bass. It will probably bite on a chunk of Gulp Mini Earthworm, under a simple clip-on float, and I'll help him set the hook and reel it in. Pictures will be taken, the fish will be let go, and I think that'll be almost perfect, just like my Bluegill was way back then in Kansas. There'll be plenty of time to get all serious about Bass and Trout later.
  5. RSBreth
    Yep, from Lake Springfield yesterday. I couldn't get the picture to attach to a post in forum topics, and you got to show one like this off, so here it goes. Several good fish were just off the points leading to spawning flats, but mostly I caught fish up on the shallow areas around brush on a little custom spinnerbait in firetiger, silver willow blade.
    Best day I've had on Lake Springfield, and I probably fished for a total of 4 hours.

    My next regular post will be about superlines-(Fireline, Spiderwire, etc.) so stay tuned.
  6. RSBreth
    I was going to post an article about crankbaits for river Smallmouth, but I think it's a little small (about 1800 words) for Ozarkanglers so I posted it at my personal blog. I'm working on an article about Rock Bass (Goggle-Eyes, to you old river rats) that'll really be up to par, but it won't be done for about a week. Turns out I don't have a really good header picture. So I have to take a trip, sucks to be me, huh.
    My other article I want to do is a starter course in fly gear for river Smallmouth: Rods, line, flies, leaders, waders, the whole deal. You wouldn't know from recent posts, but the thing I love most of all the fishing around here is throwing a popping bug for Smallies. And I haven't done a flyfishing article for my blog yet, so it's just a natural topic.
  7. RSBreth
    I finally started my own blog " Ozark Outdoor Journal ", not that anything is wrong with Phil's site here, but there are some topics and themes that may be a little more in-depth than I want to do for free. Anyway, I'll still post here, but I might save the longer articles for my site. I want to do how-to articles that span beginner to novice to expert in flyfishing, spin, cast, and cover river Smallmouth, lakes for Crappie, Bass, and everything else, and of course I'll cover trout, from Taney to the White and even Crane. I'll even be doing video segments, basically episodes like a television show.
  8. RSBreth
    More fishermen are using superlines every day, but there are still myths and rumors floating around, so anglers wonder what are the real advantages of spooling up with one of these "super" lines. There are more than a just a couple of lines to choose from, and many tackle considerations when switching from standard nylon monofilament, so let's get started with the definition of superline, then different types and material of these lines, knots and tackle, and end with a few tips.

    Most anglers call modern fishing lines made from the high strength microfilaments Spectra or Dyneema "Braid", which isn't technically correct since several lines that have been on the market are thermally fused, not braided. I use the term "Superline" which describes all of them, fused or braided, so now when I use that term you'll know what I'm talking about. Anyway, in the early 90's the original Spiderwire hit the market, it was an offshoot of work with Spectra fiber for bullet resistant vests. Very high tech, and very different from standard nylon monofilament. Both Spectra and Dyneema are trademarked names of the two different materials, both are chemically identical, but are manufactured a little different. Does it matter which one your superline is made of? Probably not. Spectra is made here, and Dyneema is European, Belgian to be exact. When the first lines made it to fishermen there were rumors of pulling up stumps, rods shattering on hooksets (how hard were they setting the hook?), rod guides sawed though, and various other weird things, good or bad depending on which axe the teller of these tall tales had to grind. I remember Bassmaster legend Roland Martin hawking the stuff, and opinion of him may have colored the way someone felt about it, too. But there were, and are, real advantages to superlines. It's much thinner than monofilament in equal strengths, so it's often referred to in a first number diameter/second number pound-test term like 4/15 ( same diameter as 4-pound test mono, actual strength 15-pound test) or say 15/65 (15-pound diameter, actual break strengths 65-pounds). Often it's simply referred to as 20- or 30- or whatever-pound test. A little unwieldy, but it's not too hard to understand once you're familiar with the terms.

    As far as I know there is only one fused line on the American market, Berkley Fireline. Spiderwire Fusion was another fused line, it had a thin waxy coating that wore off quickly and then the line became "fuzzy" in a short time after that. It never really caught on. It's selling point was it's price, which was much less than FireLine. Fireline seems to be a love it or hate it superline. I know one reason I like it might be because I'm such an In-Fisherman fan, and several staff writers there at the magazine are really keen on it, most notably Matt Straw. So I have years of tips and tricks on using it from them to build on, that and I can tie a reliable blood knot for a superline/fluorocarbon leader connection easier with Fireline than any other superline, braid or fused, that I've ever tried. Fireline recently introduced Fireline Crystal, which is a much more translucent line. When I use superline with a fluorocarbon leader, I prefer my main line brightly colored for easier strike detection. But if you like to tie directly, it may be your line of choice. The fused lines tend to be a little thicker than braids in similar strengths. Fireline in 10-pound test is about the same size as 4-pound test mono, but braided Spiderwire Stealth in 10-pound is only the diameter of 2-pound mono. I find Fireline most useful for local bass fishing in 4/10, 6/14, and the 8/20 versions. Color choices’ are Crystal, Smoke, and Flame Green. It has more "body" than the braids, and can be a little stiff for the first trip or two. As soon as it gets "broken in" a little, it works really good for me.

    When it comes to braid, an overwhelming amount of lines are out there. Some have a coating on the individual fibers, on smaller bundles of fibers, or the entire surface is coated. A couple are braided, then are fused for a slicker surface and are touted as handling easier, like new Stren Microfuse. Even within brands there are different choices. Spiderwire alone has Original, Stealth, Supercast, and InvisiBraid (another more translucent line). There are store brands from Bass Pro Shops, Cabelas, and others. If you hang out with the guys at RiverSmallies.com, you may think the only braid in the world is PowerPro, and lots of touring BassMaster and FLW pro's like Spidewire Stealth in 50- or 65-pound test (which is roughly the same diameter as 12- or 15-pound test mono) for Froggin' or fishing heavy vegetation. Cuts right though lily pad stalks and such. I've had great luck with Stren Superbraid for my favorite spinnerbait combo in 40-pound test, which is about the same size as 10-pound mono. I can fish all day (sometimes several) and never have to re-tie. There are people who love P-Line's Spectrex, but I haven't tried it. Trophy bass hunter "Fish Chris" Wolfgram uses Tuf-Line braid and it must work out well for him because I know he uses everything from live bait to huge swimbaits and uses only spinning tackle. I've never tried it, but he has lots of experience with it, and will probably respond to a kind Email if you want to know more. Check out the photograph section of his website. Absolute monster Bass!
    http://trophybassonly.com/index.htm
    Sufix is a newer force on the market, but their "Performance Braid" has really become popular. A funny story about the Sufix Braid. I was walking the around the "Spring Fishing Classic" at the main Bass Pro a couple of years ago, and the representative from the Sufix booth basically shoved a spool of their monofilament into my hand while almost yelling, "Hey, look at the way our line comes spooled! Less memory than whatever you're using right now!" I was taken by surprise but managed to notice it was 8-pound test. "Sorry, I use Fireline for that." He looked grim, but fired back smugly "I bet getting a backlash out of it is tough!" I answered "How do you backlash a spinning reel?" He looked pretty steamed, so I left while he lined up another victim. Here's a marketing tip for you tackle representatives out there: No matter how good your product is, if you don't make something a customer wants, they will go elsewhere. You can't tell someone "Hey, what you like and catch fish on sucks, so stop it and use our stuff!" They will simply go elsewhere. I guess I wasn't the only one who balked, because it was a year later I started seeing the glossy full page advertisements for a new braided superline, yes indeed, by Sufix. I wonder if getting a backlash out of it is tough? I don't know, I still haven't managed to backlash a spinning reel, and I haven't tried it on a baitcaster yet. All joking aside, I do have to admit Sufix Performance Braid in 20-pound test is pretty good on spinning reels. I'd rate it and Spiderwire Stealth about equal in my book.

    Speaking of tangled line, a backlash is still a backlash no matter what line you are using, so for me baitcasting reels aren't really better on that issue with monofilament or superline. The only difference is if you get a backlash picked out, the superline will usually be less damaged. Usually. A square or "Granny" knot is bad on any fishing line, but it's Kryptonite to superlines, and if you get several of these (like you can in a severe backlash) you may have your line part ways later, usually on a hookset or the launch of a long cast. Not fun. Braids seem a little more susceptible than fused lines in this regard. Spinning reels are a different matter when it comes to manageability. Think of all the issues with line twist, spooling, and having to do it often because the twist wears mono out quickly, and the inevitable mess of old twisted mono jumping off the reel like a slinky when you open the bail. Now make it all go away. That's right, none of that again. Spool up with the right superline and you may not have to re-spool for years. Put a rod/reel combo away, and when you get it out just go fish, even months later, no line memory. I have a combo I use for light cranks and it's on it's third season of pretty heavy use, it's spooled with 4/10 Fireline and usually has a 10-pound fluorocarbon leader. I just get it out, use it, put it away. The only maintenance I have to do now is reel cleaning/lube and cleaning the grit off my rods guides. But hey, this is America, if you are just in love with re-spooling spinning reels, stick with mono. For baitcasters, unless you are using one of the few high end models designed for light line (Diawa Pixie, Shimano Scorpion, etc.) stick with superlines that are the diameter of 8- or 10-pound test. Anything smaller can cause problems by getting between the spool and side plates.

    That brings us to knots. With the exception of fly fishermen, freshwater anglers balk at any rigging where you have to tie more than one knot. Yeah, I know some Carolina rig, or tie a small swivel ahead of jerk shads or their drop shot to keep line twist down, but most people jump on the line/leader knot as the reason the don't like superlines, and they also won't try to tie direct to their lure in clear water. As Goldmember says, "Well, then there is no pleasing you". Learn to tie good knots, and there is no problem. I think you can tell the level of a fisherman’s experience by how well versed they are in knot tying. I don't have a merit badge, but years of Flyfishing and making my own knotted leaders definitely makes me a mean bloodknot tying machine. That's a great knot for superline/leader connections. Put a dab of superglue on the knot and let dry a second for extra strength.
    http://www.netknots.com/html/blood_knot.html
    I also use the back-to-back or double uni, which is easier to tie in braided lines than the blood knot.
    http://www.netknots.com/html/dbl_uni.html
    There are some more exotic knots, like the Slim Beauty or J-knot, but I rely on the former two knots for my superline/leader knot needs.
    For small diameter lines like 10-pound test Stealth, you might double the end of the line with a spider hitch (sometimes called a Surgeon's end loop) before using the new doubled end to make a blood knot to your 8- or 10-pound mono or fluoro. Doubling the line helps prevent it from cutting into the larger mono or fluoro.
    http://www.netknots.com/html/surgeons_end_loop.html
    A big advantage to the superline/fluorocarbon leader system is you can use leader material that is much stronger than the ones that are made to be manageable for spinning reels. One of the problems of fluorocarbon lines is that the same properties that make it abrasion resistant and have less stretch also make it stiff. It really doesn't matter how stiff your leader is, so I often use Seaguar or Orvis leader material, both of which are just tough stuff. These are expensive, but they last because I only use 7- or 8-foot of the expensive fluoro leader material at a time. "See Honey, it saves me money in the end." That sometimes works.

    For tying directly to a lure, there are several good knots. Be mindful that some lures and hook eyes have gaps big enough for small diameter superline to wiggle out from. The only time I tie directly to a lure and not use a leader is for spinnerbaits, swimming jigs in vegetation, or for toothy critters. I like the Uni-knot with the line passed through the eye twice before making the knot.
    Some prefer the Palomar for directly tying on lures, and it's a good knot, too.
    http://www.netknots.com/html/palomar.html
    Coated braids are slick, so a dab of superglue on your knot is always a good idea when using them. Just make sure whichever knot you try, be ready to try a different one if your favorite doesn't work out. All the strength and sensitivity of superline means nothing if your knots fail.

    Netknots.com is a great place to study these knots.
    http://www.netknots.com/html/fishing_knots.html

    If you want to start using superlines, forget about those old nail clippers or using your teeth (your teeth!), you will need a pair of sharp scissors. Another thing- I've cut my hand twice trying to free a snag. Instead of going bare-handed, use a glove, or wrap the line around the butt of the rod or a small dowel to pull a snag loose. If all fails, my motto is: "Just cut your line, don't let your line cut you." The small 2/10 braids are the worst culprit, but even the larger lines can draw blood. Another good thing about the superline/leader system is you can usually make it fail on a heavy constant pull right at the line/leader knot and get all of your expensive superline back, losing only the leader. Oh, and the lure of course, which you were gonna probably lose anyway at that point.

    One problem some fisherman have switching is putting superline on a rod already setup for a certain technique with mono or fluoro. You no longer have to fight the rubber band like stretch that some monofilament lines have to get a good hookset. Superlines have almost no stretch, which make them extremely sensitive, but knots, hooks, even rods and reels can reach a critical point quick in the heavier tests because there is no "give". Where before you may have had a heavy action rod and heavy hooks with some give to the line, you now have knot popping ability if you set the hook hard with the drag clamped down. You may have to drop down one notch in rod power, so from medium/heavy, go to medium, and you will have to learn to set your drag correctly where it gives a little on the hookset. You'll learn you don't have to give a "cross their eyes" hookset with superline, usually just a medium power sweep. I used to use a medium heavy spinnerbait rod with 15- or 17-pound test mono, and you had to really give it a good yank to get the stretch out of the line at any distance, but now I use a medium power rod with a softer tip for braid. When I fish hits I just keep reeling until I feel weight, then sweep the rod to the side, and always get a good hookset. I haven't had to replace the line in three seasons, either. If you look at my fishing reports, I'm usually holding up a spinnerbait fish about every other one, usually caught on that combo. Still going, like the Energizer Bunny. The color has faded in the last 20 feet of line, but it seems the fish don't care. Maybe I'll break out the Sharpie someday and touch it up, maybe not. For crankbaits, something medium or medium light with the tiny amount of stretch a fluorocarbon leader gives will prevent trebles from tearing out, but still allow hook-setting ability with a flick of the wrist, even at the end of a long cast.

    Braid can loop around your rod guides easier, and uncoated braids pulls more water up towards the reel, which usually doesn't matter except when it's below freezing. For me PowerPro get less tangles around the rod tip than any other braid I've tried, but I don't have that problem at all with Fireline. All superlines get a little faded from use, no matter the color. If this bothers you, an appropriately colored Sharpie will bring that line back in a few seconds, or camo it with a different color if you want.
    Some reels just don't like braid, and some just aren't great with fused lines. You'll get tangles around the front of the spool on front drag spinning reels, or it'll loop around the line roller in weird ways unless you close the bail by hand. In my experience, the reels that don't like Fireline are usually the same ones that don't like mono. So if your spinning reel is giving you fits with good mono like Maxima, P-Line or Ande, you might try PowerPro instead of Fireline. But I have two reels (one Shimano, the other Bass Pro brand) that just don't like Spiderwire or Sufix, but are fine with PowerPro or Fireline, so go figure. When you want to spool up, the easiest way to do it is go outside somewhere, take your reel spooled with whatever it is now . Tie the end around a tree, have your dog hold it, or whatever, and walk back about 50-60 yards. As far as a real long cast plus some more. This is where you cut the mono or fluoro off, and tie your superline to it with a blood or uni knot. Fill the reel back up to the brim and now you've used only half or so of your spool of superline. I've seen reels spooled with nothing but an entire 150 yard spool of 4/15 superline, which does not halfway fill the spool of a baitcaster that holds 160 yards of 10-pound test mono, then the person complains that the stuff doesn't cast very good. Well, no kidding? Think people, common sense doesn't end at the waters edge. Use cheap mono for backing so your spool is completely full, and also get twice the use for your money.

    To sum up: The main advantage is of superlines is sensitivity, and it's hassle free- no re-spooling all the time. Actually cheaper than straight fluorocarbon with superline/leader system with flouro leader spools lasting a long time. Versatility. Change leaders according to conditions. Able to make long casts, and to get good hooksets at long range. For throwing crankbaits, you'll get a deeper dive with skinny superline verses thicker mono, and it's so sensitive you can tell if a leaf or weed gets stuck on your lure during the retrieve, even a small one. You won't believe that until you try it, but it's true. Oh, how about environmentally sensitive, due to less waste monofilament you have to recycle. You do recycle all that old mono, don't you?

    O.K., now the bad news. Cost. None of these lines are given away. These prices are from checking BassPro Online just moments ago, all in the smaller 100- to 150-yard spools:

    Sufix Performance Braid: 15.99

    PowerPro: 11.99

    Berkley Fireline: 13.99

    SpiderWire Stealth: 11.49

    SpiderWire Invisibraid: 18.99

    New Stren MicroFuse: 16.99

    Tuf-line: 10.99

    P-Line Spectrex: 9.49

    If I can give just one recommendation on trying superlines for Bass fishing here in the Ozarks, it's get a good 6' 6" or 7' medium power fast action spinning rod, not necessarily expensive, but good. Then get an equally good spinning reel that holds about 160-180 yards of 8-pound mono. That’s about a 30 size reel, every reel manufacturer makes one. Spool this with mono backing as described before, top it off with one of the high visibility braids like Yellow 4/15 Spiderwire Stealth, the new Red 4/15 PowerPro, or the Flame Green fused 4/10 Fireline. Then get yourself spools of 8-, 10-, and 12-pound test fluorocarbon. Throw in some good 10- or 12-pound test mono, too. You'll only need 8-foot for a leader at a time, so these spools don't have to be big, and 100 yard "filler" spools aren't too expensive. You're set, and with one combo. Shaky head worms on Table Rocks' pea gravel banks? 8-pound fluoro leader. Want to throw a small crankbait into a breeze or swim a grub on those same banks? 8-pound is fine, but step up to the 10 around chunk rock or timber, and ditto for stream cranking Smallmouths and wacky rigging soft stick baits. Works perfect for suspending jerkbaits and soft plastic jerk shads, too. Dock skipping, or fishing heavier cover, lake or stream? Tie on the 12-pound. Want to use a topwater? Tie on 10- or 12-pound mono, since the fluorocarbon lines sink easier, throwing off the action of surface baits. "Walking the dog" is easy with the no-stretch main line. There's more than I can list here, you'll probably think of some I haven't if you try it, but the point is: This is the one rig I never leave behind no matter where I'm fishing for bass, year round.

    In the end, the key element in choosing a line is figuring out the method of fishing you intend to do (Spinnerbaits in timber, small cranks for stream Smallmouth, maybe shaky head worms on Table Rock) and then find out what the guys who are experts at it are using. Then experiment. Everyone is different, and personal preferences can outweigh everything else. Is one of your friends a superline nut? Go fish his rigs a day or two, see what you think, and buy the boat gas for thanks. Hey, for what boat gas costs today, I'll take you if you're buying!
  9. RSBreth
    Not from Lake Springfield, but close by. I was going to post last week but didn't have time.
    I'm going to have to make more of these spinnerbaits.
    Big Bass 1
    The second one is real nice.
    Bigger bass.

    Yeah, I know in the second video I was calling maple pods "willow pods". Give me a break, I was a little happy, it's easily my biggest Largemouth this year. I was only scouting how bad the flood debris was, not really expecting to get into any good fish.
    I forgot to get a good high resolution picture of it, too.
  10. RSBreth
    There have been many "hot baits" throughout bass fishing history. Some blow up, then fizzle out, like the Chatterbait, some are "only available for a limited time and not in stores" (think Banjo Minnow or Flying Lure), while others actually fill a niche and continue to be effective year after year. The soft stick bait, first introduced by the Yamamoto Custom Baits Senko, will be here for a long time. The story as I understand it is that tournament fisherman and lure designer Gary Yamamoto was trying to make a soft jerkbait, something to rival the Slug-O or Fluke, but without the little fins or other things that can cause it to spin if not rigged right. His first mold was made from the shape of a magic marker. Straight, fat but tapering towards the tail, and as it turns out, totally different. You can work a Senko like a jerkbait but the real magic is when you let it drop on a slack line the whole bait wiggles slightly as it falls. A slightly restrained version of a friendly Lab wagging it's whole body when it greets you type of wiggle. When Texas rigged weightless on a wide gap hook, it's as simple as casting it by some cover, letting it shimmy down, and then waiting for the line to start moving off when a bass takes it. People now use 3-inch versions for big panfish or drop-shotting, the 4-and 5-inch versions are a bassin' mainstay, and the bigger 6- and 7-inch models are crammed into every available space when traveling to the trophy bass lakes in Mexico.

    I don't know when I first read about wacky rigging a Senko, but I didn't try one for years, wacky rigged or otherwise. I hate to admit it, but I just didn't like the way these lures looked. "It looks like a plastic hot dog" was my comment when someone asked me what a Senko was. I have used Zoom Trick worms, Flukes, and Slug-Go's since, well, forever, both Texas and wacky rigged, so I thought I had my bases covered, why change? Well, I always preach trying things other folks have raved about, give something a good fair shake to see if it'll make it to the tackle bag, so I finally took my own advice and tried something different. The first trip I used a Wave Worm Tiki-Stik, a good cheap knock off if there ever was one, and well, I had to admit I was wrong. I still can't believe how well these lures work. They work twitched and drifted in current, dropped down bluff walls and beside brush piles, and really work skipped under docks or over hanging limbs, their salty weight making them some of the best skipping baits ever. Even though these lures are a sure-fire option for bass when Texas rigged, wacky rigging one of these fat sticks isn't popular around here. That's a shame, and I'll explain the hooks and tackle, different makers, sizes and colors, and finally how and where I like to use it "wacky style".

    Available in every color of the rainbow and from tiny to massive, the soft stick is here to stay.


    When any lure becomes as popular as the Senko, there are going to be imitators, but one thing that is common to these types of baits is the heavy salt content, which helps them sink and enhances their action, but also makes them fragile. Although wacky rigging plastic worms has been around for years, some enterprising angler probably ripped his Senko on a fish, turned it around, did it again, then before throwing it away had a crazy idea, hooked it right in the middle so both ends flap on the drop, and caught another. Brilliant. Hooking a plastic worm this way has been called a "wacky worm" for some time, but the fish don't object to the "wackiness" at all, rigging a soft stick bait like this can be deadly.
    Wacky rigging has one problem, and that's the hook point is exposed. So, you can deal with snags, or try a weed guard design. I like to throw in, around, and sometimes through cover, so it's weed guard all the way with me. I have used Matzuos' bait holder sickle in #4 for a couple of years and it's O.K. The hook uses a wire just a little too heavy for my tastes, so I looked at some others, used a Mustad model a little, and then realized I had the hook I was imagining already, and I had been tying a weed guard version of it already, it's just been under deer hair or foam. The Tiemco 8089 is a bass bug hook, and in my opinion, the best one out there. It comes in either standard or nickel plated, and I have used it for years. It's point is slightly turned in, has a small but good barb, and is wicked sharp without dulling easy. I have taken a razor blade to several of the mauled bass bugs I tied on these hooks, got down to bare steel, and tied another, and used that one until it was lost, or I did it over again. So yeah, they're pretty tough. Priced at about $7.00 per 25, they come in # 2, # 6, and # 10, I use the # 6 size the most now for wacky hooks, but have made up several dozen of the #10 size for drop shotting, and also wacky rigging of smaller worms, like the new Berkley PowerBait Shaky Worm or Zoom Finesse. You can bet if I ever get to sling 7" Dingers at Lake Amistad, Falcon, Toho, or a trophy bass lake in Mexico, a couple dozen of the # 2 size will be making the trip with me. You can pick these hooks up at Backcountry Outfitters if you feel like making some, it's next to Fin and Feather in Springfield on South Campbell Avenue in Springfield. They are easy to find at online fly tying retailers, too. I recycle guitar strings for the wire, but you can get stainless steel wire leader of about 40-pound test at Cabela's, and that works great too.

    Matzuo Baitholder Sickle(Left)and Tiemco 8089 with homemade weed guard(Right).


    I like to add weight to the hook shank when fishing deeper, in current or wind. Sometimes the fish want a faster drop speed. It's easy to use lead fly tying wire, or 50/50 rolled solder works too.

    Regular and weighted wacky rigs.

    A jig head is also an easy way to get it down quicker without having to buy or make weighted hooks, there are a couple I like, but have had the best luck with one available from Bass Pro: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...010000_100-10-6

    E. C. jigs with Dinger, Kalin Grub, and Zoom Shaky Tail.


    The 1/16 ounce size works awesome in rivers or shallow water. Use the 1/8 ounce for deeper water, or for faster current. These have a wicked sharp Matzuo Sickle hook and a pretty good weed guard. One great thing about using a jig head like this is you can change what presentation you want to go with so easily: Swim a grub to cover water, thread a finesse worm on to make it a shaky head, or wacky rig a stick bait without having to re-tie. Very versatile, making one rod able to cover a lot of water, river or lake. I was just reading about "weighted wacky" and "flick shakin" as hot new techniques in a couple of magazines. Both use wacky style rigging combined with worms or soft stick baits on jig heads. Wow, I didn't know the past couple years I was innovatin', I was just fishin'!

    For most of your wacky rigging, spinning is the way to go. With the hook exposed, you don't need a broomstick to get a solid hook set, so a 6' 6" or 7' medium power, fast action rod with a good capacity reel is about right. Skipping is easier with spinning tackle, too. I like Fireline on my spinning reels with a fluorocarbon leader both for abrasion resistance against rock or wood, and it's near invisibility in clear water. I like 4/10 Fireline and 8- or 10-pound fluorocarbon leader about 8-to 10-foot long for finesse fishing or streams, and 6/14 Fireline and 12- or 14-pound fluorocarbon leader just a bit shorter for dock skipping or dropping a stick into a cedar tangle. One of the castable fluoros' like Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft or P-Lines Flouroclear in 8- or 10-pound test is a good compromise for those who don't like superlines. You could get away with 6-pound away from cover, but I have used a 14-pound Berkley Vanish leader while dock skipping on Beaver Lake and got plenty of bites where you can see the bottom in 25 feet of water. A bright colored Fireline/Fluorocarbon leader setup really helps with strike detection, too. You don't have to get real complicated with all this line/leader stuff unless you want, back in the day I used 8-pound Maxima monofilament for wacky rigging Mann's Jelly Worms, and did pretty good. It's just another refinement of your tackle you can try.

    Yamamoto designed the original, but there are almost too many to choose from now. Yum has the Dinger, Bass Pro Shops has the Stick-O, Wave Worms has the Tiki-Stik, on and on. The most popular sizes are 4- and 5-inch. Some, like the Mann's Hardnose Freefall, are specifically made for wacky rigging with a more durable midsection, while the Strike King Zero is made of a unique elastic material you have to play with to fully understand. You can stretch it maybe 3 times its length, and it will snap back to almost its original size. But this unique stretchiness also make it hard to get a good hook set Texas rigged. But that doesn't matter once wacky rigged, you can catch many, many, fish without tearing it. It's available only in a 5-inch model but worth checking out. The Senko has plenty of action, but is delicate, the Dinger a little stiffer, but also more durable. The Stik-O is somewhere between the other two. The Tiki-Stik is a little slimmer than the other ones, and has lots of action. It also comes in a wide range of cool colors, laminates and swirls, and it's one of my favorites.

    Most folks use the 4-inch model for Smallmouths and Spots, and the 5-inchers for Largemouth's. I can't argue with that much. I like the 5-inch Tiki-Stik for stream smallies, but it's kind of slim verses other 5-inch models. The 4-inch Yum Dinger is a great skipping bait, but for some reason I don't do as well with it as I do the 5-inch model. Once you get to 6-inch models there aren't as many choices, and really for around the Ozarks they're a little on the big side. On the other hand, you might do good right before the spawn dropping a big stick around staging areas. I have used the 6-inch Stik O some, but I don't know if it works any better than it's slightly smaller brother, or even the 4-inch model. I do know that I seem to get bigger bites from Largemouth's on the fatter 5-inch models. On Smallies and Spots it doesn't seem to work that way. Going bigger than a slimmer 5-inch just seems to decrease the number of bites. There are also the "Slim Senko" and "Stik O Slim" models, both are as thin as finesse worms, but I don't think any of the super skinny versions have much more to offer than a lot of finesse worms. I use them mostly for kids fishing or small stream wading, when any 10-inch bass is good. So for Smallmouths or Spotted Bass, a slim 5-incher or regular 4-inch model is perfect, and for "green bass" 5- and 6-inch models are going to work well for you. I could live with only two models as far as wacky rigging goes: A slimmer 5-inch like the Tiki-Stik, and fatter 5-inch model like the original Senko or maybe the super durable Zero, and be done worrying about size.

    I try to keep it simple and stick with three basic color schemes: Baitfish, earthy, and wild. Baitfish can be light belly/dark back laminate, or maybe all pearl white or smoke glitter. I like these colors when using a soft stick as backup or "throwback" for fish that miss your jerkbait or spinnerbait or follow and won't commit, and anytime I'm thinking the fish are keying on shad or other baitfish. I've even caught a few Stripers on Beaver Lake throwing baitfish colored sticks at schooling fish. Earthy is watermelon/red flake, maybe green pumpkin or just earthworm brown. Near shoreline structure, dropped into brush, or dock skipping are all good times to use these colors. Anytime I'm catching fish shallower than 10 feet with a jig, tube, or finesse worm I'll throw a earthy colored stick and see if I can get a bigger bite. Wild is, well, wild. Tiki-Sticks in "Bruised Orange" or "Sweet Potato Pie" are good examples. Best for stained water, or when smallmouth get hyper, and hot colors produce best on stream Smallies for me, clear water or stained, year round.

    When and where do you cast these sticks? Anywhere, anytime. Besides a throwback bait as just mentioned, vertical structure is probably the best place to use one, but I even use them as search baits when wacky rigged. In clear water like Table Rock, a bass can see a long ways, so I make a cast to about 10 feet of water, let it sink on a slack line, reel in and then repeat every 50 feet or so down a bank. Makes a great change up if your partner is fishing something with a more horizontal presentation, like a grub or crank. Dock skipping and pitching to shoreline cover are just perfect. In our local streams Smallmouth love them so much you'll just have to see it for yourself. Do yourself a favor and try that "Bruised Orange" Tiki-Stik or one of the similar Senko swirl colors. Cast to current seams, and behind current breaks.
    Try a wacky rigged soft stick this year, you might make this technique a favorite in your arsenal, too.

    http://www.yum3x.com/details.aspx?category=YUMDinger

    http://www.baits.com/cgi-bin/order/9-10

    http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/descpageSFTSTRIKE-SKXZ.html

    http://www.landbigfish.com/tacklestore/showcase.cfm?PID=579

    http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...0007000_100-7-1
  11. RSBreth

    X-rap Shad

    By RSBreth,

    It won’t be a shock to anyone who reads my articles that I'm a big fan of Rapala lures, I've used the plain minnow for bass and trout for as long as I've fished. I remember reading an In-Fisherman article in the early 90's about people in the Ozarks doctoring up their Rapala minnows with weight to get them to suspend, and catching winter bass like dynamite on these customized lures. I doctored a few, and it worked just as they said. When Rapala came out with the Husky Jerk, I was a happy camper. They usually suspend right out of the box, and bass eat them right up. Trout, especially big browns, do too. The Shad Rap and I go back almost as far, and I have used the smallest shallow Shap Rap as a go-to bait for trout for years.

    Here you see the whole Rapala family that lead to the X-Rap Shad, at bottom. It starts with the Husky Jerk and Long Cast minnow, which gets you the X-Rap. Cross with the Shad Rap RS, and there it is.

    The only problem with these lures is that they are light, the Husky Jerk is plastic, the original Minnow and Shad Rap are balsa. The bigger Husky Jerks cast O.K., but the balsa lures are frustrating in the wind, even with fairly light spinning tackle. Rapala answered the problem with the Long Cast Minnow. A patented weight transfer system inside the lure consisting of a metal ball that rolls inside a track allows long casts, but normal action when the lures is retrieved as the ball locks in place until it is cast again.


    These lures must be a pain to construct out of balsa, and they don't seem to be selling well for freshwater anglers, which is a shame. The smaller size is my favorite Brown Trout lure when fish are aggressive, and has scored my two biggest at TaneyComo. The larger size is a great warm water bass jerkbait. I guess most bass anglers don't use floating jerkbaits enough, or maybe don't know about this one. Whichever, it is available only in the saltwater line as I write this.

    Here you see the Long Cast Minnow in two sizes. A great overlooked bait.

    The weight transfer system was a great idea, and too good to stay only in one lure. Rapalas answer to high priced suspending jerkbaits, the X-Rap, was an instant success. It is plastic, but borrows the diving bill placement (further forward) and long cast weight system from the balsa Long Cast Minnow. The first one I tried caught a bass on one of the first few casts. A good omen indeed. Now the X-Rap is available in different sizes, deep water long billed versions, saltwater, etc. But the Shad Rap kind of stayed where it was at. The plastic Shap Rap RS (Rattling, Suspending) was a mild success, but even made out of plastic still was hard to cast.

    The Husky Jerk(Left) and Long Cast Minnow(Right), which combined make the X-Rap(Bottom).

    Now the Rapala family tree brings the long casting, suspending nature of the X-Rap to the shad family with the X-Rap Shad. It even has the same color-coordinated "dressed" rear treble hook like the X-Rap.


    X-Rap Shads in Silver/Black and Purpledescent.


    I had tried to doctor some lures up to be more of a suspending shad imitation, but nothing worked quite right.

    The "Swimmin' Image" Shad weighted to suspend.

    I had tried the Shad Rap RS, but again it didn't cast well in wind, so it was out, except for a trolling bait. I think the new version of the Shad Rap will prove to be a great success both as a standard crankbait, and as a stop and suspending bait for coldwater bass.
    The new X-Rap Shad has the same deadly nose down then slowly right itself on the pause action that the original X-Rap does, and can be twitched like it's jerkbait kin to good effect. It retains the tight action of its Shad Rap forefather on a straight retrieve, although it's bill is slightly different than either the Shad Rap or Shad Rap RS.


    Diving bill shapes are slightly different for all three shads: Shap Rap RS (Left) X-Rap Shad (Center) Shap Rap (Right)

    Rapala has demonstrations on their webpage showing the swimming action of all their lures.
    http://www.rapala.com/products/luresdetail...eshorsalt=Fresh

    The new bait comes in 5/16 and 1/2 ounce sizes, the smaller version running 8 to 10 feet (depending on line diameter), perfect for cold water or finesse type situations, and the larger size is going to go deeper, sure to compete with some of the much more expensive deep diving lures for summer structure cranking.
    I really like the colors on the new lures, one of the colors that I like is the "Purpledescent." Sort of a purple back that fades into faint chartreuse sides, with a pearl white belly. I need a regular X-Rap in this color, and now am on a campaign to email Rapala every time I think about it until they get one out there. It really looks good in the water, and I decided to use this color of X-Rap Shad in the smaller 5/16 size to try out. I don't think it will ever replace the standard jerkbait, but in a few situations, I think this lure will stand out. Anytime you want to get down quickly to 8-10 feet, then let the lure sit, like around isolated tree, this lure gets the call. Most of the time I just cast a standard jerkbait past the cover and retrieve it back, but when fishing this past weekend I found a perfect spot for the lure. A large tree down on a bluff, the only cover on this stretch of bluff for 50 yards, and no way to cast beyond it to work a regular jerkbait down very deep. I cast the lure tight to the bluff, just slightly past the tree, reeled down a few cranks and twitched the bait, followed by a long pause. Twitch a couple of more times, followed by a faint "tick" on the line, which was this nice red-eyed Spotted Bass.


    I think anytime you want a more subtle crank (which is almost every time you fish Table Rock) the new lure will work great as well. Oh, and for colors, Rapala really needs to get a crawfish color going on with the new lure, too. Are you hearing me, Rapala guys? Oh, it retails under 7 bucks, too.
    My only dig at this lure is the way the line attachment fits in the bill. The Shad Rap RS had the same problem, and that I like to take the split rings off my lures and use a snap. A standard small snap is really hard to get onto the lure, although you could just leave the split ring on and clip to that. The Norman Speed clip that is popular around the Ozarks isn't a problem at all to get on there, so really it's just my pet peeve.

    Really only the lack of a crawfish color and the snap thing stop me from giving it a 10.
    So solid 9 out of 10 for the new X-Rap Shad.
  12. RSBreth
    One of the first lures I learned to catch bass on was a spinnerbait. I don't know the make or model, but it was a small one, easy to throw on what was my only rod at the time, I think it was a 6'6" medium action Fenwick, with a Cardinal reel. Pretty nice set up for the era. Both were given to me by one my brothers, and I don't remember exactly how old I was, but that little 1/8th ounce bait caught a lot of bass. These days I use a spinnerbait for river Smallmouth a lot, I can't think of a better barometer to see if the fish are really active and chasing. I usually use a two pronged approach when first on the water, spinnerbaits over and around timber, and crankbaits bouncing off rocks or the bottom in deeper water.
    The crankbaits are a story for another day, but when it comes to spinnerbaits for river or stream Smallmouth, I prefer a compact model. The only problem was until recently, compact spinnerbaits were either too small, not balanced well, too light, or not available except from custom tackle makers. I think the ultimate compact spinnerbait these days is the Terminator Custom Tungsten. With it's compact "snap back" titanium wire frame, tungsten 7/16 ounce weighted head, it casts far, runs true, and stands up to abuse like no other I've used. The tandem willow is my favorite for river Smallmouth, and loaded up with lead until it weighs 3/4 ounce (outlined below) is my go-to Table Rock spinner. I have heard that the blades on the Terminator baits tend to vibrate so much they can work the split ring on the swivel apart resulting in the blade coming off in mid retrieve. I had never had this happen until this past year, but according to those in the know, it has only happened on the "Oklahoma" blade, not the willow that I normally use.

    Top: Strike King "Little Mr. Money". Bottom: Terminator, Custom Tungsten.

    Change out the regular round split rings for the oblong shaped ones,, and no more lost blades.
    http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...010000_100-10-5
    So, any other downsides to the Terminator? It usually retails just under $10.00 a piece. Yeah, ouch.
    S.O.B Lures http://soblures.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=73_23
    has some awesome models, almost too many choices in colors, truly a custom bait, but you have to pay shipping, and there is something to be said about actually looking at something before you buy. So are there some good, more reasonably priced (say $5.00), compact models out there you can pick up at Bass Pro or "Wally World"? Yes, and that brings me to the current pair I'll talk about today.
    As soon as I saw the online advertising for the War Eagle "Finesse" Spinnerbait, I was, well, hooked. It's supposedly designed by Pro Mike McClelland. Is it? Who knows. I liked the looks, it comes in both 3/16 and 5/16 of an ounce, and the standard War Eagles are really popular around the Ozarks with a good fish catching reputation. It has the "Tux and Tails" type skirt as a different company calls it, with long strands flowing back beyond the hook shank. It has some good basic color choices, so I ordered the first one I could get hold of, which was the 3/16th ounce version. When it arrived I was amazed at exactly how compact it really was. It has a tandem blade setup, with the front being a small Colorado, and the main blade kind of a modified Oklahoma, like on Terminators. These are now available at my (Ozark) Wal-Mart as I write this, and to tell the truth, they are just a little smaller than I like for general use. We'll see how it fishes, as I will give them a real field testing as the water warms over the next month or so.
    The other model I'll talk about here is the Strike King "Little Mr. Money" which I actually kind of laughed at when I saw it on the "Strike King Pro Team Journal" Television program. The story was that Pro George Cochran wanted a finesse bait for tournaments, etc., and we are to believe that this is his "baby" and everything. They really talked it up, kind of infomercial style, and I am always skeptical of marketing anyhow, but then I saw it at Wal-Mart, and well, now I have 6 of them in my river tackle bag, and a couple in my big boat to throw around docks and shallow stuff at Table Rock and Beaver when the bigger baits aren't working. It weighs 3/16 of an ounce, has a Tandem Colorado/Indiana blade setup, and the main blade probably looks a little small to most people, but it allows you to really use it well in current without to much drag. It has a similar type skirt to the War Eagle, I think that some folks would skip a trailer on both of these baits, but I use a matching Kalin grub for almost 100% of my spinnerbaits, and they work well even under these skirts.

    Left: War Eagle. Right: Strike King

    Both baits are light, and for someone using spin cast or spinning gear they would work fine, but I like to use flytying lead or solder to add weight to the shank of the hook, and use superglue to hold it in place. You can really load up the Strike King model, and it'll cast a mile, but run true when you "burn" it back at high speed, which can trigger both Smallmouths or Spots, river or lake. The Strike King is said to be available only at Wal-Mart, but the exact same thing is available at Bass Pro with all the other Strike King spinnerbaits, just not labeled as the same bait.

    Lead wire wrapped on hook shank of War Eagle to add weight.

    So, 1-10 scale, I will have to give the War Eagle a tentative 6. Looks good, good hook, great blade, just a tad small.
    The Strike King? 8. It could have a longer arm, I have noticed it's not as snag resistant as the Terminator or S.O.B., and that's a function of how long the arm come back over the top of the bait. They look the same, but when retrieved the titanium flexes more. But it does has a wicked good hook, nice paint and detail on the head, cheap, catches fish. I've been changing the small Indiana blade out with a #4 Terminator willow, and having a lot of success with that version.
    It will have a place in my tackle box until I find another, cheaper, better bait. If that ever happens.


    Two more Views of the Strike King baits.

    Oh, if I overlooked some other lure, please tell me, and I'll check it out. I can't be everywhere, all the time. I take more stock in a personal tip than all the marketing hype in the world anyway.
  13. RSBreth

    Bargin Bin Find.

    By RSBreth,

    I cruise the bargain bins often, but rarely buy anything, but recently made what may be a great find. I went by the local WalMart and found a Diawa "Team Diawa" 6'6" MH spinning rod marked down to $19.00. I thought, well, I can let the in-laws use it when they come down, etc., etc., but it turned out to be really good for the money. Then, I also happened to frequent the Bass Pro outlet store, where I found one of the newer "Extreme" reels, with the wide spool for the sum of $30.00.

    Spooled it up with 6/14Fireline, and a 12 lb. Fluoro leader.

    It will work for skipping small baits up under docks, and if you break it, well, so what. Total cost, 49 bucks. Caught a couple of fish on it already.
    Anyway, lets have a look. I think the gold color of the reel matches the rod really well.
  14. RSBreth
    I'm commited to adding a new entry every week, it will be hard, but the first one will be a double post, my comments on bargain rods and reels, and a tackle test review of two easy to find compact spinnerbaits.
    I will try to post them tomorrow, with pictures and everything.
  15. RSBreth
    Went to Beaver Lake and saw my in-laws. No fishing, but did see my wifes step-dads 1975 Cobalt he just bought, or bought back. See, it seems he bought this boat back in his 20's, sold it to his brother who stored it well but rarely used it, now three decades later he got it back. Really clean old boat, not a fishing boat, but still neat to see something someone has cared for. Powered by a OMC 175, which happens to be a Ford 302 w/2 barrel Holley. Cool.
    I may go down to Taney in the A.M. but I'll see what the temps are in the morning. No go if it's below 30 degrees or so.
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