Mono Vs Floro

[Steve Smith]

I go both ways, but lean more towards Froghair Floro even on dry flys. But,I rarely use a dry smaller than a 14. Mostly because I can't get over the "bass set" that floro allows some forgiveness for. When the water gets real clear, I go with a green mono if I think the fish are spooky. I am just learning to rebuild leaders and that been a challenge too with floro. Found a surgeons knot holds floro the best when spicing tippets so that has eased some of my pain. The bottom line is whatever a guy believes in is the way to go.

[Danoinark]

I go both ways, but lean more towards Froghair Floro even on dry flys. But,I rarely use a dry smaller than a 14. Mostly because I can't get over the "bass set" that floro allows some forgiveness for. When the water gets real clear, I go with a green mono if I think the fish are spooky. I am just learning to rebuild leaders and that been a challenge too with floro. Found a surgeons knot holds floro the best when spicing tippets so that has eased some of my pain. The bottom line is whatever a guy believes in is the way to go.

Well that is sage advice from Steveo. Well said.

Dano

[Project Healing Waters]

Yes, fluorocarbon tippet has a higher density than water while monofilament generally does not. Fluorocarbon's refractive index is almost identical to clear water's. Thus, it doesn't "shine" in the water like mono does. These are facts. Beyond that, here are my OBSERVATIONS:

1. I can use a bit of floatant gel on the tippet after treating a fly to keep it afloat better. This doesn't work for hours, but it will work until you catch a few fish. Re-applying is no big deal.

2. One must be more careful to lube knots before cinching down with fluoro. It will cut through itself easier than good mono...all other things being equal.

3. Fluoro gets stress "kinks" easier than mono, which causes me to cut off and re-tie more often than when fishing with mono.

4. Split shot slides on fluoro moreso than mono. Have to use a single overhand knot to keep it in place.

5. The old wive's tale about not being able to tie fluoro-mono joiner knots is BS. Lube them and tie carefully and there is no difference.

6. I believe that fluoro generally lets me use one size larger tippet than if I were using mono to achieve the same detectability results. So, if I had to go down to 7X mono, I could get by with 6X fluoro.

7. If sink rate is important (faster water, etc.) when nymphing or fishing streamers, I use fluoro. It sinks faster...MUCH faster on an upstream wet fly presentation. This allows me to use less weight.

8. Fluorocarbon tippet is about the same price to produce as mono. So why the hell does it cost 3-4 times more at retail? That's BS.

9. If it hurts my dry fly fishing, I haven't noticed. Then again...refer to #1. I used to believe this and only used mono for dries. I catch more fish on dries now than I did back then. But that's not very scientific. Maybe I'm just better at it now? Maybe I do more of it now because I'm better at it now? Maybe I'm fishing better quality water now? All sorts of variables.

[Paola Cat]

PHW ... nicely put and right on. In a related issue, I do see performance differences between different brands of fluorocarbon. Maybe that's just a personal preference? For example .... using 6X fluoro tippet .... some seem to have a larger diameter. Also, some seem to break much easier than others. I don't think that they are all created equal. Anybody else experience this? PC

[vanven]

Line diameter is one of the first things i look at when comparing lines to purchase.

-Jerod

[Project Healing Waters]

Yes, the diameter is actually more important than the strength rating (which is HIGHLY subjective anyway when expressed as an X-factor). I look for the best possible combination of 3 factors: lower price per foot, smaller diameter, and higher test rating.

I also see some differences in performance across the board, but they not only vary BY brand, but WITHIN the brand. Some batches are better than others...some have not been transported or stored properly. Personally, I think the best combination of the above factors for ME is Orvis Mirage. But if I could buy Rio Fluoroflex for the same price per foot as I can Orvis Mirage, I would buy Rio. They can keep Froghair. I won't buy Cortland. I won't buy "off-brands." And I just can't even think about affording Seagar/Maxima products...nor do I like the way they are packaged/grouped.