Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Have been thinking that a downrigger would be an asset in getting lures down to the fish, has anyone had any experience and what type of lure selection should be considered? Thanks for the help.

Posted
Have been thinking that a downrigger would be an asset in getting lures down to the fish, has anyone had any experience and what type of lure selection should be considered? Thanks for the help.

It can definitely be helpful. It's mostly a precision technique for Lake Michigan trout and salmon, but it transfers well to walleye fishing on the big reservoirs around here. Most of the typical crankbaits and spinners you usually use will work fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

I only use mine for Stripers sometimes when fish are 30 ft or deeper and not live baiting. But for the the Walleye and smallmouth here on Table Rock & Beaver, not worth the trouble. I usally troll 4 rods with line counters. Back 2 about 120 ft, front 2 about 100 ft, make wide turns with deeper crankbaits closer to boat or all 4 lures about the same. I Do well in cooler water with cranks that run about 11 ft. When fish are deeper the 3 1/2" walleye runners and walleye divers will usally get you down to the 18 ft range. I like all my trolling lures colered like shad or chartruce.

If you want to try downriggers stickbaits work well because they only go 2-4 ft below ball and run more in a straight running mode instead of its nose pointing down that a really deep crank with a big lip to get you down to 25 plus on its own will do.

Maybe its just me but it dosnt seem natural for a bait to swim with its butt up so high.

If you try downrigers, hope you have a kicker moter. Can really be a problem when your at stearing wheel and their in back of boat. Hope I was of some help. Good luck and take a kid fishing.

  • Members
Posted
I only use mine for Stripers sometimes when fish are 30 ft or deeper and not live baiting. But for the the Walleye and smallmouth here on Table Rock & Beaver, not worth the trouble. I usally troll 4 rods with line counters. Back 2 about 120 ft, front 2 about 100 ft, make wide turns with deeper crankbaits closer to boat or all 4 lures about the same. I Do well in cooler water with cranks that run about 11 ft. When fish are deeper the 3 1/2" walleye runners and walleye divers will usally get you down to the 18 ft range. I like all my trolling lures colered like shad or chartruce.

If you want to try downriggers stickbaits work well because they only go 2-4 ft below ball and run more in a straight running mode instead of its nose pointing down that a really deep crank with a big lip to get you down to 25 plus on its own will do.

Maybe its just me but it dosnt seem natural for a bait to swim with its butt up so high.

If you try downrigers, hope you have a kicker moter. Can really be a problem when your at stearing wheel and their in back of boat. Hope I was of some help. Good luck and take a kid fishing.

Posted

Definitely not worth the trouble around here, I use downriggers in South Dakota salmon fishing over open water, thats about it.

Around here it is easier to fish long lines and leadcore.

  • Members
Posted

Well I think you guys are correct, after my first outting I was pretty disappointed. First of all I have never even been on a boat with a downrigger much less used one but after researching the topic I had visions of big fish coming to the boat out of the deep water. I lost a bunch of lures, kinked up the cable wire, and ruined the release clip all in about 2 hours. Of course a lot of that was probably due to operator error.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted
Well I think you guys are correct, after my first outting I was pretty disappointed. First of all I have never even been on a boat with a downrigger much less used one but after researching the topic I had visions of big fish coming to the boat out of the deep water. I lost a bunch of lures, kinked up the cable wire, and ruined the release clip all in about 2 hours. Of course a lot of that was probably due to operator error.

My first time I learned real fast the difference between fish trees & bait . Had the same problem . GPS helps with map of contour lines to show whats ahead of you, and how flats come out Mark your trees with a waypoint to stear away from.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.