Fly Swap 2006

[jOrOb]

Hello all!!

Here is the list of patterns in the swap.

1 - John Jackson; squirrel zonker

2 - Duckydoty; Bunny strip leech

3 - Tim Homesley; Mohair leech

4 - Steve Smith; Golden Crackleback

5 - Don May; Brown Ant

6 - Liley; Primrose and Pearl Zebra

7 - Rolan Duffield; "Peppy"

8 - Matt Keener: Olive Soft Hackle

9 - Luke; Soft Hackle Scud

10 - jOrOb; Disco Bugger

11 - Kicknbass; Crayfish

12 - Dano; Blood Midge

13 - Michael; Brassie Emerger

14 - Matt Rohrer; #8 Prince Nymph

15 - Bear52; "Dead Chicken"

Feel free to add your recipe with or without pictures.

[Danoinark]

Blood Midge (sorry for the poor lighting)

Submitted by Danoinark

Blood Midge

Originator: Brian Chan

Hook – Mustad dry fly or TMC 200R, size 18

Thread – Red

Body - Thread

Rib – Fine silver wire

Tail – Tuft of red marabou

1. Start thread just behind hook eye, advance to just below the hook point.

2. Tie in small tuft of red marabou with no more than 2 thread wraps.

3. Tie in fine silver wire for ribbing.

4. Advance red thread in side by side turns to the starting point.

5. Palmer forward the wire ribbing in equal amounts and tie off.

6. Whip Finish.

7. Coat entire fly with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails (except the marabou of course) to give it a transparent look (optional)

How to fish

Fish dead drift as a midge or nymph. To get the fly below the surface film use a

small split shot approximately 12 to 18 inches above the fly.

[Steve Smith]

Sorry... I don't have a camera for a picture.

Golden Crackleback

Hook - Dai-Riki #305 Dry Fly Hook

Body – Danville’s Chartreuse Nylon Stretch [uNI Stretch] Size 12 or larger I like Chartreuse floss

Thread – UTC Waxed Florescent Yellow

Dorsal Rib – Peacock Herl

Hackle – Whiting Sized Golden Straw

For this pattern, the sized Whiting Golden Straw hackle is hard to find, but can be special ordered through your local fly shop. I get mine through Tim Homesley at Tim’s Fly Shop near Roaring River [barefaced commercial]. On the tying instructions, you can Google probably a hundred Crackleback patterns, so I’ll emphasize what I do a little different than Ed Story’s original pattern. First, I slightly over hackle all my Crackleback patterns so they will float very high in the film because this seems to draw the most rises. Unfortunately the full hackle also creates a short strike situation on top as the trout tend to grab hackle and no hook. Second, I lightly coat the nylon stretch body with Sally’s Hard as Nails just before securing the peacock herl and palmering the hackle forward. This keeps the herl locked to the top of the shank while palmering, and makes the hackle and herl more durable, which is the fly’s main material weakness. Here goes:

1. Lock in the thread on the back of the hook shank just before the bend starts.

2. I always double check the hackle size by bending the fibers and comparing to the hook gap. The hackle should be even or slightly longer than the hook’s gap width. Even though I use “sized” hackle, the sorting process is not always accurate.

3. This next step is important… I secure the hackle butt end first above the top of the bend, with the inside cup or dull side of the feather facing me. This alignment naturally orients the hackle’s fiber angle towards the eye of the hook as I palmer the hackle forward, thus giving the hackle more action.

4. Next, secure the peacock herl on top and aligned with the hood shank. I prefer the herl to be near or the same width as the hook shank. If it is not, I will double the herl strands to provide a prominent dark dorsal rib on top of the hook shank.

5. Finally, I secure the nylon stretch body material and wrap the thread forward leaving a gap to finish the fly’s head

6. Wrap the nylon body thread forward leveling in layers to ensure a consistent body diameter just short of the fly’s head area.

7. Apply a LIGHT coating of Sally’s to the nylon body, and secure the peacock herl across the top of the shank. Align the herl so it is perfectly centered, then wait a minute or so for the glue to become tacky.

8. Palmer the hackle forward leaving a gap between each wrap [the width of the gap is up to your preference, but I prefer mine small], secure in the head area, build a head, and whip finish.

This pattern is best with a steady current and or a slight chop on the water. I generally cast straight across to slightly upstream, and allow the fly to drift downstream until there is obvious drag. Allow the fly to drag for a few seconds as that is when many of the strikes occur. Then pop the fly under the film and strip back until you are out of the feeding lane. You will need to false cast to dry the fly if it is sinking, and recast. The only time I grease the fly is when the trout tell me too. If there is next to no current for a good drift, like the drought has caused in SW Missouri, lay the fly in the feeding lane, and twitch the rod tip just enough to make the fly jerk, pause, then jerk again.

[jOrOb]

"Disco Bugger"

I wish I could take credit for this very simple and very effective pattern, but I didn't do it. Grif1950 from www.flyfishingarkansas.com came up with the material and the very simple and very effective pattern.

Material List:

Hook: #6-#10 Eagle Claw Aberdeen(#8-#12 Streamer)

Weight: 15 turns of .20 lead wrap

Thread: Danville Flymaster + Black

Body: Bernat Disco Yarn (available at Wal Mart)

Head: Thread

The Disco Yarn is available in a number of very effective colors. I use the Olive, Black, and Purple, but there are several other colors available that might work well.

Here is a comparison of the Aberdeen hook next to a standard Streamer hook. Aberdeens run about one size smaller, so you need to adjust. Also, the Aberdeen hook does not have a downturned eye. I like the Aberdeen because I can get a ton of them for $3, and they are available at Wal Mart.

Place the hook in your vise and add 15 turns of lead wrap. I like to position the lead on the forward portion of the shank, but not all the way to the head. I like to finish just ahead of the lead. Start your thread forward and wrap back over the lead to just above the barb.

Select a piece of material from the Skein. The pattern requires about 2 inches of material so if you take 3 inches you will have plenty to hold on to. The Disco Yarn has a distinct direction. You want the material swept back. It is much easier to palmer that way.

Tie in the Disco yarn at the tie in point. I like to lay the butt up to the lead to make a more even body. Once your material is tied in and your butts are covered, move the tying thread forward to the finish point.

Start to palmer the material forward in touching wraps, covering the entire hook shank. As you palmer this material forward, it gets pretty unruly.

By stroking the material back after each wrap, you should be able to avoid most tangling.

Continue to palmer forward until you reach a point about one hook eye width behind the hook eye. Tie off and snip out the excess material. Form a thread head and whip finish. You might need to "comb" the material some to clean it up. Coat the head with Sally Hansons Hard as Nails and you are done.

One of my favorite features of this fly is that it actually gets more bushy after the first use.

[Kansas Fly Fisher]

SQUIRREL ZONKER

Submitted by John Jackson

Originated by: unknown

Material List

Hook: #6 Aberdeen or a 2XL Streamer

Head: Small Brass Cone

Thread: Black or Red

Body: Pine Squirrel Zonker strip

1. Place the cone on the hook and start your tread and advance it to the bend in the hook.

2. Tie in your squirrel zonker at the bend. The tail should be approximately the length of the hook. I dampen my fingers and separate the hairs to tie it on the hook. This keeps the hair apart and makes the tying in easier.

3. Wrap your thread back to the head of the hook. Wrap your squirrel zonker strip forward to just behind the cone. Make two or three extra wraps at the cone to build up a color. It helps to use your free hand and brush the hair fibers back toward the bend after making each wrap. This keeps the hair in place and makes a neater wrap.

4. Tie off the remainder of the zonker strip. Cut it close the cone and make a couple of tight turns, whip finish and cut the thread.

Fishing Tips:

I like to fish this a couple of ways. You can fish it like any other streamer in just about any part of the water column. My prefered method is site fishing. I'll cast it out and let it sink to the bottom. Work it slowly back towards you twitching it across the bottom. If you see that you've caught the eye of a trout stop moving it for a couple of seconds then gently twitch it. This usually works and the fish will take it.

I hope you have as much fun with this fly as I do. Good luck and tight lines.

John

[Luke]

Soft Hackle Scud

Material List

Hook: Size 14-20 Dry, Wet or Scud hook (I used a size 16 dry fly hook)

Body: 2-3 Ostrich Herls

Thread: Color to match body

Ribbing: Fine Copper Wire

Shell Back: White River Fly Shop Scud Back Material or any Scud Back material

Hackle: Soft Hackle (hen chicken or partridge)

Tying Instructions

1. Start thread and wrap to 1/3 to 1/2 the way down the hook bend
   
2. Tie in Ribbing
   
3. Tie in ShellBack
   
4. Tie in Ostrich Herl
   
5. Wrap Thread forward leaving enough room for the fly head and Hackle
   
6. Twist Ostrich Herl into a rope and wrap forward and tie off and trim
   
7. Bring ShellBack forward and tie off and trim
   
8. Wrap Ribbing Forward and tie off and trim
   
9. Tie in Hackle with shiny side facing the hook eye
   
10. Wrap Hackle 2-3 close wraps toward hook eye and tie off and trim
    
11. Sweep hackle back and wrap some thread over the hackle to form a swept hackle
    
12. Make a head and whip finish
    

Presentation Tips

I dead drift this fly and let it swing at the end.

[Kicknbass]

I can't get my pictures to load. attachment notes 0 bytes of free space.

Any idea's?

[Kansas Fly Fisher]

I emailed mine to Phil and he uploaded them for me.

John

[Kicknbass]

I'll try to remember to do this mid August. I will be out of commision until 8-14

[timsfly]

Mohair Leech

#2-#14 3X or 4X long hook

.025 or .030 lead wire

Purple thread(black will work I like purple)3/0 or heaiver

Thick Black Marabou for the tail

Black leech yarn for the body.

I tie the the thread on run it back on the hook

just above the barb,

I then wrap about 10 wraps of lead in the

middle of the hook and then run the thread back to about 1/8"

behind the eye of the hook.

I add head cement at this point over the entire length of

lead. I then tie in the thick hunk of

marabou in just behind the eye, lifting a little as you

wind back towards the bend of the hook, keeps the marabou

right on top of the hook. I like the tail of the leech

to be the same length as the hook.

Tie in the leech yarn(about a 6" section) and then run the

tying thread back to the eye of the hook, then wrap the leech

yarn back up to the eye of the hook, whip finish and glue the head.

If the leech is not hairy enough for you, then rough it up with a

brush or a dubbing pick, I use a plastic tooth brush with the bristles cut down so they are good and stiff to rough my leeches.