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Posted

If you were going to start tying, would invest in only the non-barbed or the barbed hooks. I am a catch an release only, when I fish for trout. Come to think of it, I am C&R only.

Posted

Russ, barbless are a few cents more. The other issue is that you won't find barbless in all model numbers.

I never even look. If I buy those with bards, a quick fix with a small needle nose pliers takes care of it.

Dan

Glass Has Class

"from the laid back lane in the Arkansas Ozarks"

Posted

After fishing in all the wind we had on New Years weekend, and removing hooks from my back, :( my hat, :( my shirt :huh: and my waders, :blink: I have become a barbless fan. :unsure:

Yes, I'm That Guy

Posted
Russ, barbless are a few cents more. The other issue is that you won't find barbless in all model numbers.

I never even look. If I buy those with bards, a quick fix with a small needle nose pliers takes care of it.

Dan

The "pliers quick fix" I have done. I am concerned about the new laws going into affect in Arkansas. I am not fully convinced that crimping the barbs will keep me from getting a citation.

Posted

I have had absolutely no problems with Arkansas, I have always just crushed the barb down. I'm not sure what new law you are talking about because there has always been the areas that require no barbs.

The agent that was causing all the fisherman to get citations for barbs on the hook that were even mashed down. The way the story got told to me was he give the wrong man a citation and he was removed form the area.

So I would say keep on just mashing them down.

Michael

To Know People Is To Know Thier Ways!

Posted

What Michael said....

The "urban legand" about the game warden writing tickets on "mashed barbs" has not been "proven" true to me. Maybe I should check snopes.com... :lol:

However, if I got a citation for that, I'd take it to court anyway. Any warden worth a hoot will honor the fact that you can't get them all "perfect" all the time.

I mash the barb on all my hooks just before I put them in the vise. Dano is right... you can't find barbless hooks in every style. But you can make them barbless. I've had a few that seemed to "snag" a bit after I got the fly tied. I simply take a bodkin, whip finisher, or anything that will work and burnish the "hang nail" smooth. That or a hook sharpener run along the side to knock it off...

What "new" reg are you talking about in Arkansas? Are the '07 books out yet, Dano? The website still has the '06 Trout guide.

TIGHT LINES, YA'LL

 

"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman, trying to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, and getting licked in the process." - Paul O’Neil

Posted

Ok, let me restate. Not new laws for Beaver Tailwater. But the laws regarding barbless. Sorry for the confussion. Settle down Terry, It's ok.

Posted

I was told by the warden working out of Norfork that as long as it appeared that you had made an effort to make the hook barbless, it was OK. She said that the story about the warden using cotton balls to test hooks (where only factory barbless hooks passed the test) was not true. Also, the barb smasher pliers do a better job than regular needle nose pliers IMO.

Posted

Sounds like a job for the "Myth Busters".

I guess it depends on what I will be tying then. Thanks for the input.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

Trout Flies, Barbless. Period. Way better hook sets, the Tiemco 206BL is perhaps my favorite and one of the most versatile hooks there is for scuds, soft-hackle, glo-bugs, san juans, etc. These hooks are sharp, very sharp, and very strong. Plus with barbless you don't even have to touch the fish when you get good at sliding your hand down the tippet to release the fly.

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