The Buffalo

[Al Agnew]

We all owe a huge debt to the Ozark Society and other conservation organizations that were instrumental in saving the Buffalo River from the dams that were planned for it. This is truly a river worthy of the status of "National River". No other river in the Ozarks has such spectacular bluffs, beautiful water, wilderness-like areas, terrific hiking and backpacking along it, and just plain wonderful country. I try to spend a few days on it every year, both floating and hiking. The only thing the Buffalo lacks sometimes is enough water to float! And the nice thing about that is, if you're willing to work at it, you can just about have this incredible river to yourself during low water periods.

But it is work. My wife and I did a float with another couple, good friends, a few years ago in late August. We put in at Gilbert and floated 6 days to the White River. And we probably walked more riffles than we floated, especially BELOW Buffalo Point. The river flows almost as much water at Gilbert (or actually just below Gilbert, where a good sized creek comes in) as it does below Buffalo Point, but the riffles tend to be narrower above Buffalo Point, so they also tend to be a little deeper in dead low water. The fishing was great fun. The water was very clear, and very warm, felt almost like bath water, and the fish were whacking buzzbaits with wild abandon. I watched a lot of fish actually see the lure in the air and position themselves under it before it hit the water. Others would charge it from 20 feet away as soon as it landed. None were huge, though I caught a couple in the 17 inch class.

I remember the first time I ever floated that stretch it wasn't as low nore quite as clear, and I found the fishing to be tough. That lower end is all rock and gravel, with only one or two places that looked like the water I was used to fishing on Big River--clay banks and logs. But, in one of those places I caught a 20 inch smallie!

I've floated all of the river at various times from Ponca to the White River. I've never done well fishing the upper river, from Ponca to Pruitt, maybe because I've always floated it in early spring except the very first time, which happened to be in late June but after some heavy rains that had put quite a bit of muddy water in the river. But who cares? No other river in the Ozarks, and maybe in the country, is as scenic as the Buffalo below Ponca. And where else can you stop and hike a place like the Goat Trail, which follows a ledge across the face of Big Bluff, the highest bluff in the Ozarks. You're 350 feet above the river with almost 200 more feet of cliff above you, and the ledge is no more than 5 feet wide in a couple of places. Or stop and hike up Hemmed In Hollow to see the highest waterfall in the Ozarks. Or just stop at ANY hollow coming down to the river and hike up it a ways and see geologic wonders that would make state park status in most states.

The middle river is, to many people, not as spectacular as the upper and lower ends. It's a little more of a typical Ozark stream, with wide bottoms and somewhat lower bluffs. But it's still got some beautiful multi-colored cliffs, fast water, and it's got the Narrows, a knife edged ridge dropping straight off into the Buffalo on one side and Richland Creek on the other, less than 3 feet wide on top. And the middle river CAN be excellent fishing as well. While snorkeling in it one time, I came face to face with the biggest flathead catfish I've ever seen while snorkeling. That thing's head looked to be a foot wide!

[DarthVMAX]

Wow! I must go. I have driven over it once, last summer on my way back to the Smoky Mountains in Tennessee. I really wanted to get out and explore but we were pressed for time.

Mr. Agnew I don't know if you saw my post in "introduce yourself" but I must say I love your artwork. My favorite (a signed #'d) is the "bust" of a Timber Wolf that has its paws crossed in front of him. It is proudly displayed in my "wolf" den at home.

[Al Agnew]

Thanks, darthV...that's an OLD one! One of the first prints I ever published.

[Brian K. Shaffer]

" I've never done well fishing the upper river, from Ponca to Pruitt.. "

I wonder .. cause I have floated / fished this stretch too.. does it fish less than stellar because it is one of the areas where a lot of people put in and take out on float trips most often ?

The Buffalo is a gem..

Brian

[Danoinark]

Al, et al

I tend to have pretty good luck from Erbie to Ozark. There are a few deep pools, and a few shoals that produce some nice smallies. Brian is right, anywhere there are put in and take outs for the float concessions don't expect good fishing. Below Hasty there are excellent fishing opportunities. I only live 7 miles from Pruitt and have been so fortunate to be able to enjoy this magnificent river...Dano

[Kicknbass]

How is the water level on the Buffalo this spring? If a guy wanted to take his family floating this weekend, what would be suggested for a short 1 day float?

[Al Agnew]

Kickinbass, according to the USGS gages, the Buffalo was flowing 45 cfs at Boxley today, so the upper river from Ponca down is too low. You need about 75 cfs at Boxley, minimum, to float the upper river without having to do a whole lot of dragging.

However, the river was flowing 605 cfs at St. Joe, which is plenty of water for the middle sections. So I'd guess you have enough water to float about anywhere below Mt. Hershey.

[Arkamo Traveler]

The Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca posts daily river level updates, along with a good description of what the river levels mean for your paddleing experience. Google the BOC and click on thier trail and river report link.

I was fortunate enough to enjoy the ephemeral upper Buffalo over the weekend, from Ponca to Pruitt. Remarkably, there were very few other people on the river. The water was 20-24 inches below the Ponca bridge, and running beautiful "Buffalo River Blue." It is, as we all agree, a treasure.

Two weeks before, my wife and I went, and had a somewhat disturbing experience in an otherwise safe and fun trip. We were chased by a horse....

A group of +- 20 horsepeople crossed in front of us on the old river trail (ort) at Jim Bluff. One horse (named Captian coincidentially) decided to charge our canoe, and his drunk rider and the crowd cheered the spectical on. I back-paddled furiously into the deepest water as the horse persued us. When horse was about 5 yards away, it stepped off a ledge and its large rider caused the horsed head to go nearly underwater. The rider had enough sense to hold his flask above his head while his horse made a beeline for dry land. When he got back to the bank he exclaimed to the crowd that he may be cold (wet up to his chest now) if he wasn't so drunk.

I know that all the users need to get along and share, but it seems that the horse/riding use have such a tremendous impact on erosion, nutrient addition, streambed disturbance, and exotic plant seeds, and general obnoxiousnous.

If you are still reading, what do you think?

[Danoinark]

Traveler I have to agree....another area that has gotten out of hand is the Ozark campground...seems the locals take it over on the summer weekends for loud music and beer. I will say that the Park Service Rangers do what they can to handle the complaints...just not enough of them.

Dano

[Wayne SW/MO]

I've owned horses and they aren't kind to the environment, especialy one that should remain natural.