How-to-steps ( Mike Mercer's Rag Sculpin )

[Jeremy Hunt]

Rag Sculpin (Mike Mercer's)

Recipe:

Hook: Tiemco 700, size 2-6

Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0 (for tail only)

Tying Thread: Wax monocord 3/0

Tail: EZE Bug yarn (tan or color you desire)

Body: EZE Bug yarn (tan or color you desire)

Pectoral Fins: Medallion sheeting

Eyes: I-Balz or any eye that is weighted

Marking Pens: Prismacolor markers

Tying Instructions:

Step 1.

Cut a piece of the EZE bug yarn about six inches. This next step is really up to you. Measure the tail about half the length of the hook shank. That will be the reference where you will peel back the fibers until you can see the inner core. Now with each hand keeping the fibers peeled back you’ll need to make about ten turns of thread around in the same spot. This will make a little base for you to tie the material in. How I do this step is once I get the thread started I then swing it around with centrifugal force still holding the material with both hands. This might take a little practice, but you’ll eventually get it.

Step 2.

Next thing you’ll want to do is attach the eyes. Leave enough space to have room for the yarn to be tied off in the front of the eyes. Notice where I tied mine in. When tying the eyes in make figure eights and every time you make a turn keep as much tension as you can without breaking the thread. Also before making a bunch of turns you’ll want to add some Sally Hansen hard as nails to the top and then rotate the hook over and do the same thing to the bottom. To learn more about how to secure the eye go check out the Taneycomo sculpin. After you complete this step go ahead and put another coat of hard as nails. Let it dry a little and then you’re ready to finish the fly. What I do is prep about six hooks and then by the time you’re done with the last you can start working with the first one.

Step 3.

Advance the thread back to the bend of the hook and tie down the tail right on top of the thread wraps you did in the first step. Once you make about two or three turns getting the tail secure go ahead and add more tension. I usually do about ten wraps and then lift the tail up and tie right in front a few times. This will help keep the tail from shifting or coming loose. On the underside add a few drops of glue on the base of thread. If you add it on the top you’ll more then likely get some on the material.

Step 4.

Advance the thread back up just behind the eyes. Now palmer the EZE bug yarn up to make the body. As you make each turn pull the fibers back so you don’t tie any down. Example: Take a wrap and stroke the fibers back before making the next turn. Don’t go all the way up behind the eye because you still need to tie in the pectoral fins with the medallion sheeting.

I wanted to show you how to tie down the material so you can get ready to tie in the pectoral fins. I make a few to secure it down to keep the yarn on the underside of the hook (out of the way). It also helps if you have a material clip so you can trap it so it will definitely stay out of the way.

Step 5.

Cut about an inch of medallion sheeting off. Now cut that in half (long ways) and you are ready to prep one of those you cut in half. Round the edges off like you see in the picture.

Step 6.

You can buy this sheeting in several colors, but the one I have is clear so I colored it with a brown prisma color marker. Now you're ready to cut the sheeting directly in half.

Step 7.

Now something I have found that won’t work is cutting the ends your tying in to a point. Keep them a square when tying them in. You can make your fins long or short depending on the way you want them to look. I measure mine to the hook point. When tying these in your first turn will be loose (kind of how you would tie in deer hair) and then cinch down. Make a few more turns and you’re ready to do the other side.

Step 8.

You should have enough room to make one full turn in front of the fins and just behind the eye. This can be tricky because when you go to make the turn it might shift the fins and make them uneven. So what I do is press with my finger and keep the fin against the hook shank when I make the turn so they don’t shift. After you make the turn then do a full figure eight around the eyes and then tie it off right in front of the eye. Cut the excess off and whip finish it.

Step 9.

Now cut the top and bottom to make it look flat like a sculpin. I also trim around the fins so you can see them more. The only other cut you need to make is to the tail which it needs to have a rounded look. Now you’re ready to color it to your desired look.

Step 10.

I’m using three colors and the yarn I tied this particular pattern is tan in color. The three colors are olive, brown and sepia. The first color I use is the olive and I want to put a line going down the whole length of the fly. Then I use the brown and color on the top to whatever you want it to look like. The key is blend the two colors together. I also dab small dots all around as well. I don’t do anything to the bottom. Then with the sepia I blend it all in. Also color the fins to.