Crippled Caddis

Ducky, Look in on Ol' Sparkey's Forum on Southern Paddler at: <http://www.neilbank.com/phpBB2/> Tell 'em Tom @ Buzzard Bluff sent you. Then duck.;o) They're an irreverent bunch of misfits and it's hard to get a straight answer outta them sometime unless you ask it on the 'Serious Boatbuilding Question' section. There is a LOT of freely shared expertise on there from experienced builders and a few designers. Chuck, the owner, is pretty much THE expert on building plywood pirogues. Just don't go paddling with him----he's also the 'Rainmaker'. And whatever you do don't take Bearridge seriously---after all he's a recently retired attorney.(

deerman wrote: <Starts on the first pull, but it cuts out from time to time. When it dies, it will start back on the first pull.> Something just occurred to me that might be applicable. In the early 50s OMC finally figured out how to make magneto coils that would disintegrate over time. On ANY OMC built motor from the smallest up to @ 35hp from @ 1952 until the CDI era motors with running issues with the original coils should be suspect! Whenever I look at one in that category I automatically figure that it's going to need plugs, carb kit, waterpump impellor and new coils up front with other issues to be addressed afterward. And it's a pretty &^%$ safe bet! But people are insulted when I tell them what their motor is worth to me! Early signs of deteriating coils can be almost any aberrant behavior including the symptoms you described. It's normally much worse as the motor warms up and it will get much worse over time. It's a very safe bet that if your '68 Sporttwin motor hasn't had the coils replaced that it needs to! But it's a *&^%$# good motor, better in some respects than current models, so it's worth the investment in time and expense if the compression is still good. New coils are @ $20-$25 each depending on source. Carb kits run @ $17 average for OMC products and waterpump impellors are in the same ballpark. So for less than $100 most old Johnnyrudes can be given a new lease on life unless they're simply worn out. Some models have a 'window' in the flywheel that will allow inspection of the magneto plate and point adjustment. Most don't, but a 'harmonic balancer' or steering wheel puller works fine as a flywheel puller on OMC products. If your coils betray signs of cracking, powdering, disintgrating or anything beyond perfect then you can safely bet they need replacement. Even if they look perfect they are still suspect if they are the brown plastic original equipment. The newer repacements are green and should tell you that they are replacements. And if you can't recall the last time the waterpump impellor was replaced then it's overdue.;o) So don't chuck that old 9 1/2 in the trash yet----------or if you do let me know in advance and I'll be waiting at the trash dump.;o) CC

The 'Head opener of Worm Cans' wrote: <And does this introduction by migration not make them "native" anyway? I am of the opinion that every species of fish (excluding trout of course) was made a part of the White system by this method either as the watershed was formed, or some time thereafter.> IIRC, (and as you well know that's always questionable!() I've read reports that indicate that in past ages trout were indeed native to the region in ice-aqe eras. So where's the cutoff point for 'native'? IMO it's all relative. If my memory in the case above is correct then trout were indeed 'native' at one point during and following climactic extremes. Our streams are indeed almost classic trout habitat, lacking only the temperature specifics neccessary to the char species for survival. Everything I've read and experienced indicates that Smallmouth, a specie that can prosper in waters only a few degrees above those required by trout, are native to the region within historical parameters. My question concerns the other members of the Black Bass family-----were they native or introduced?

kenjenmo wrote: <Here is mine that I inherited with my property. Takes on a little water but thats OK. Pretty beat up but my family and I have caught a lot of fish out of it.> Idyllic scene Ken! And you're getting that boy off on the right foot too! Oddly enough teenagers who have fishing licences in their pocket and tackle in their vehicle don't see judges and juvenile officers as often as those who don't.;o) If your boat has rivets and is getting 'elderly' then the chances are pretty good that your leaks are the result of loosened rivets. Fortunately that is an easy fix if you have a good assortment of ear protection. Just tighten up the rivets by standing the boat on one edge. Give your 'assistant' a big hammer (a 3# sledge works great) to use to back up the rivet and while he holds it against one side of each rivet give the other end of the rivet a couple or 3 good whacks with a lighter hammer. Or you could actually use the proper tools of a bucking bar and a pnuematic rivetting hammer but that's hardly the Ozark country way.;o) (sure wish it worked for 'elderly' old pharts!) CC

deerman wrote: <Good story. I'm running a 1968 9.5 hp Evinrude Sport Twin on my 16 ft. right now. It has some carb issues too I think. Starts on the first pull, but it cuts out from time to time. When it dies, it will start back on the first pull. I'm going to start with fresh plugs and go from there.> You can never go wrong on a 2 stroke with fresh plugs! But the trouble description doesn't suggest plugs as the problem. Check fuel supply first. Might have a restriction that prevents it getting enough gas. If you aren't aware of it you can get parts for older outboards from Sierra Supply on the net. A lot of the better auto parts stores have the Sierra catalog and can get parts overnight, all NAPA stores, for one, should have the Sierra catalog, others may also if you have one of the old-fashioned auto supply stores nearby that has more than big speakers and odor fresheners to sell.;o) Carb kits are cheap and a good starting point if fresh plugs don't do the trick. Just be sure you have your model and serial #s on hand when you order parts! On Johnnyrudes they are generally located somewhere on the transom bracket. If you need help Dano can get in touch with me. CC

deerman wrote: <I like those paddle jons too. I've seen some photos of some old Arkansas Traveler River jons that look like they would be pretty nice, for what I want.> I have a 50s era 14' x 32" Ark Trav. that a friend salvaged from the river last year. It had been underwater a long time and the wood on the transom was almost all gone. Has some serious dents and battered gunnels but it's still watertight. My intent (if I can get my 'round-to-it' to crank) is to restore it after I get the 5 horse 1948 Johnson TD-20 I'm rehabbing running good. I'll also be picking up a 5 horse 1953 Montgomery Ward Sea King built by the Gale division of OMC this weekend from a friend in Little Rock which he got from the original purchaser @ 12 years ago complete with factory motor stand and owners manual. He sez it needs a little attention to the carb.;o) With that rig I'll feel properly equipped to use my vintage tackle. CC

SM wrote: <That's what we get for electing people we "like" and whom we think are "nice" ---We need to restore some decency to politics if we want any decent politicians. Decent people currently will not run for office and cannot get elected if they dare.> Or alternatively this is what we get for returning the same morally bankrupt crooks to office rather than giving them a single term to demonstrate that they are responsive to the needs of their constituency. We have the option to "throw the Ba$tards out". If we don't exercise it then we have no bit**ing rights. It really IS as simple as that! <Our society is very psycho-spiritually ILL. And whether it is gas prices, food prices, the war, illegal immigration, or whatever; these are all just SYMPTOMS of the collective dysfunctional mindset and whacked out priorities of a culture that is spoiled rotten.> Nolo Contendre Your Honor! The problem is that every hog wants a spot at the trough. Proving that politicians aren't the only ones for sale to the highest bidder. The American electorate is equally guilty of prostituting themselves to the Federal trough by returning the same crooks to Capitol Hill who deliver a portion of the porkbarrel to their district. How else could one possibly explain the perennial re-election of such individuals as Ted Kennedy, Pelosi and Schumer? <We actually prefer delusions and illusions to reality these days, and often insist that we are told and shown what we WANT it to be rather than how it actually IS...in spite of overwhelming evidence to the contrary that is intuitively obvious to the casual observer.> Discouraging ain't it? ;o(

<Clinton J9---once I get to it---ill probably have a model number at least.> Sorry----I just now stumbled across your post. Model #s are required for accurate identification, but most were in the 3 to 5 1/2 hp range. Best source of info is from the 'Ask a Member' board of the Antique Outboard Motor Club. <http://www.aomci.org/askamember/index.html> Do a search on that site and you'll find info on where to source parts since I know I've seen it posted several times. <haven't a clue about value, actual age.> Value? About the lowest to tell the truth. They were very inexpensive motors that used lawnmower engines and their value is reflected on the used market. They are not considered collectable. They can still be a usefull fishing motor if you just need something that beats paddling. Age? Don't take this to the bank but IIRC from @ the mid 60s to early 80s. If you decide to put it in service be aware that although the engine itself is air-cooled that they still needed watercooling to the exhaust leg to prevent the hot gases from cooking the lower crank seal. On some of the smaller models they used a tube that faced forward toward the propeller flow, prop flow and forward speed forced water up the tube to provide cooling where required. On other models they used a true water pump similar to 'normal' outboard motors. Either way you need to be sure that water is getting to the area needed. On the forced water tube models the tubes often became blocked by mud or 'dirt-dobbers'. Anytime a motor has been sitting for a year or two I automatically replace the rubber waterpump impellor because they become stiff with time and heat. If they disintegrate in use the pieces often go direct to the water jacket unless they block the piping first. A new impellor is a lot cheaper than a new motor! 'Dirtdobbers' and other insects can block all sorts of passages in outboards that sit a lot so check EVERYTHING! HTH, CC

I'd check out the offerings at dorber.com. in beautiful downtown Flippin, Ark. High quality American made products at great prices IMO.

Neat! My aquarium is now hosting a 'school' of Ozark Shiners. I like to keep native fish and the Shiners are VERY hardy. Took them @ 3 days to figure out what the fishfood I sprinkled on top was but they now go into a feeding frenzy like a school of Piranha when I lift the lid. They have been fun to watch and having models for streamers isn't a bad idea either.;o)

As Dano pointed out they are traditional in some of the very earliest soft-hackle patterns. They are a very invasive import that has had a serious effect on several native songbird species and harvesting some is a very 'good thing'. If you are a bird hunter or have a friend who hunts upland game try Quail, Woodcock and Snipe. They all have great soft-hackles and in smaller sizes as well. While you have the pellet rifle out of the closet you might as well harvest a few English Sparrows too. They are another invasive and unprotected import in need of eradication and should have some useful soft-hackle.

<Probably most are not Trolling any faster than anybody else but getting to the first spot to fish their probably in the 80's, 90's, and tripple diggit speeds. One of our members holds the national record for top end speed for the "Bassboat" class at 123 mph..> As both a lifelong fisherman and 'Motorhead First Class' I STILL cannot equate the two endeavors within the same thought process.) In my own highly individual perspective fishing is a quiet, peaceful, somewhat introspective pursuit closely allied to meditation and sharing, in some indefinable aspect, aspects of worship and awe of the Infinite. The raw adrenalin rush of speed in all of it's multitudional aspects stands in stark contrast in my thought processes. Perhaps relating it to a coin with two completely contrasting sides would be an appropriate metaphor. Nor can I mentally equate "123 mph" with "Bassboat" class. The concept is as contradictory to my psyche as using 'competitive' and 'fishing' in the same sentence. Believe it or not I'm truly not trying to stir up a stink even though my first response was completely tongue-in-cheek. I THINK (might be overstating the case:0)) that I'm mostly just marvelling at the vast expanse of the perspectives covered by the concept of 'fishing'. I'd be more than fascinated by a glimpse of the contrasting perspective from one who CAN mentally marry the divergent endeavors. Strictly as an observation I would posit that speed is relative to context. In that regard then 123 mph bears little relationship to fishing which is a pursuit generally acknowledged to be performed at a pace less than walking. Similar to the difference between the legal highway speed limit of 70 mph in most jurisdictions compared to escape velocity required of a vehicle leaving the Earth's atmosphere which is circa 17,000 mph. In that context then 123 mph is very fast indeed! I readily admit to being very impressed! And I now have a better understanding of the high speed retrieve gearing of the reels used in tournament fishing.) CC

Randall wrote: <i made it sound like i knew both of them... not so much i never met sharon, but i've heard that was my loss.> Nor was I close friends with them Randall. Just BSed with them a few times at early FFF Conclaves in Mt. HOME IIRC.

taxidermist wrote: <So what has happened to the original Min. flow standards etablished in 1951?> You've hit me square in an area of ignorance---what can you tell us about those 1951 regs or can you direct us to a website concerning same? Being actively involved with those fisheries I need all the ammo I can get. CC

Yellowbee wrote: <I am one of the Administrators of FastBass.com that specializes in High Performance Boats and Bass fishing.> Just as a point of interest how fast are your board members trolling?

Terry wrote: <You'll want to take at least one trip down the road about half hour to Mammoth Spring, AR and check out the Spring River.> Most people concentrate on the trout fishing in the Spring river but Terry is on the mark. There are some HUGE Smallies ( and Spots & Largemouth!) in the Spring. The lower river below the trout water is almost completely ignored except by locals who are 'in the know'. I had a report of a Tiger-Muskie today that the guide telling me about it thought might be a world record. Looks like I may yet get to exercise that telephone pole I built for big fish! CC

Armyflyfisher wrote: <my latest quest is an American made Medalist. Solid, dependable, American made click pawl reel> The Medalist is far more than just a 'click-pawl' reel! <Check out this article on "balance."> Joe does make a great point with: <Your fly rod, reel and strung line, for best feel and performance, should achieve fulcrum balance at about the point where the index finger of your casting hand grips the cork. If you set the outfit up like this it will feel almost weightless in use, regardless of the actual weight of the gear.> But he missed the boat with: <remove the line and backing and wind on 30 feet of 28 pound test lead core trolling line around the spool> The Medalists were designed so that you could add lead shot to the hollow center of the spool to achieve balance.

Randall is right----Sharon left us far too soon. AFAIK Chuck was still around at last report. A class act---both of them! CC

I think Mrs. Ducky nailed it: <that fish did not look like a healthy trout to me...it did look chubby> It should be obvious to sophisticated fisherpeople such as present company that the fish died of ODing on McStocker 'Rainbow Delight'. A clear case of 'suicide by fork'----or something of that nature. For a less tongue-in-cheek opinion see my post on the thread following the article. I suppose I'm 'outing' myself here, but it is the post by 'Tom @ Buzzard Bluff'. <http://forums.baxterbulletin.com/viewtopic.php?p=25562#25562>

Rusty wrote: <Now, when using man made fibers (slinky flash), how do you get the natural look at the tail> OK----I admit it; you stumped me with that one! After much soul-searching and no little head-scratching I can recall no aquatic nor terrestrial organisms that have chrome rear ends.

If I recall the script correctly the next announcement will be "You missed it"!

If you're using a pre-waxed thread then you're not getting full penetration of the thread with whatever cement you use. Thick cements won't penetrate well. Kevlar simply doesn't LIKE to soak up anything---waxed or not. Try a size A rod-wrapping thread to put the eyes on--it's supposed to soak up the finish. Roughening the hook shank will not cause rusting----if you have a good coat of any lacquer or head cement the roughened area will be protected. So lay down a coat of head cement, Sally or your favorite (superglue is NOT waterproof) on the shank (whether you roughen it or not) and put on a good thread base, coat the base with cement again. Then tie in the eyes being certain to keep the thread fully wetted out. You can put a LOT of tension on size A thread! when satisfied with the tie-in put a couple of half hitches or a whip finish on it, give the thread a final soaking of cement and set it aside long enough to achieve a full cure before finishing the fly. Overnight is good---- a full day is better. If this doesn't work then you might wanta look into a MIG welder.;o)

If you use a loop to loop system between leader and line you can utilize a 'po'boy' sink-tip system that is extremely portable and effective tho a bit of a PIA to cast. Buy a leadcore trolling line or an inexpensive 4 or 5 wt. full sinking line and make up 5', 10', 15' or 20' lengths, or whatever length you think you'll need, whip a loop at each end and package them in length labelled clear zip-lock bags. They will all fit into a single pocket on your vest with room left for other items. To use simply loop on the length you calculate you need to the loop on the end of your line and take it from there. All things considered it takes little if any longer than exchanging spools and rethreading line thru the guides. As previously noted the cast isn't quite as pleasant as it was originally but then how many of you truly enjoy casting and retrieving a sinking line? I used the method successfully for years but gave it up since I have came to detest the loop to loop system. CC

I'd say Steve pretty well nailed it on all points! Good post Steve. CC

Dano wrote: <While walking the shore I fished a small yellow popping bug and caught the biggest bucketmouth I have ever caught by any means.> If the IRS ever finds out how much fun you can have in a cove at twilight with a handfull of poppers they'll tax it out of the range of the average fisherman. And we'd better pray that they don't find out about a big bed of spawning Redear and a box of rubber spiders! <I also love to fish farm ponds with a fly rod. You never know what you might pull out of one of them.> I've never quite figured out exactly what is just so inherently RIGHT about the combination of flyrods and farm ponds but by comparison ham and eggs clash! Same thing for small creeks. If there's a more innocent and enjoyable pasttime than wetwading a small creek for panfish and small bass I haven't yet discovered it.