JohnP

Fun tournament benifiting a worthy cause for our area police and fire departments. Phil, you guys do a awsome job of hosting this event for us. Lots of good raffle prizes being raffled off as well. Looking forward to it as always.

Friend sent me a pic of a dead one they pulled up that was floatin' just above Swan Creek. Guessed it to be in the 40 pound range.

congrats on a nice fish. Explains why the ramp's been busy in the evenin's at river run .

Last time we tried it was a couple years along the stump row across from Hogan. Did fairly well on the crappie but spent more time battling the gar. Good luck when you go.

Pic of the ol' watersled

Back on the water

2004 1860 G3. Just my ol' do-it-all beater boat . Been a good boat, only complaint I have with it is storage space which is why I put a truck box in it.

.......I think I may have finally got it done . Just hoping that I didn't screw something up. Seems/sounds like it shifts alil hard but hopeing that it's cause it's on the water muffs?

Thanks and also if I remember right the upper seal of the two gets seated as far up into the housing it can go and the lower one is flush with the bottom of the housing or did I misunderstand that?

Wrench, just double checking, I'm expecting the upper seals to be in this afternoon, if I remember right you said that the open (spring) ends face away from each other (up and down)? Is that correct? Thanks again for the help.

Thanks again Wrench for returning my call last night, it was good talking to you and giving me a better understanding of what I was looking at. I do believe that the hard plastic tube is from the water intake vent cover that must of broke off after looking at it, just thankful that it didn't completely block of the water flow and hopefully didn't do any damage to the motor itself.

Understand and that's what I'm affraid of.

Should be 3 pic's one of the impeller the water pump base and housing, and 2 of the same hard plastic tube that's. Pretty sure I found all the impeller chunks, but didn't locate any of the hard plastic tube pieces if there are any.

Also does the non lipped edge of the tube go up in the tube? Not finding a good diagram/schematic of which piece this is and where it goes.

Also does the non lipped edge of the tube go up in the tube? Not finding a good diagram/schematic of which piece this is and where it goes.

It appears that all the impeller pieces are but that was the only hard plastic piece there was and that concerns me some as one section of the overhang edge is busted off. Is that something that can be back flushed? I did take the pee hole tube off and blew into and it feels like there's no pressure, however when I cover the water tube and blow it still blows thru somewhere but with some pressure???

As you can see in the pics the impeller is shot, missing a couple wings, but the main question is what is the hard plastic tube that was lodged in the trough? Thinking that its the damper water seal that should be around were the water tube and water pump housing meet? When I pulled the lower unit the metal tube didn't have attached to it, should there be? Also the housing was full of oil and there was oil leaking out of the water intake ports so replacing the upper seals as well.

Got it finally. Dremel tool, cut length wise (up and down) and then tapped in on the sides and it broke free. Now to replace the upper seals, put the new gaskets and impeller on and I should be good to until the next beast rears its head.

Been doing the PB blaster and taping with a chisle and not budging it off and on for about 2 hours, will put the old impeller back on try the the tap technique. Thanks.

Replacing the water pump impeller and gaskets on a 90 hp yamaha and the woodruff key is stuck in tight, any suggestions on ttrying to get it out? Thanks.

Thanks wrench, makes me feel alil more at easy.

I've replaced them before on a older 40 hp Merc but have never done so on this 2004 2 stroke 90 hp Yamaha, is it going to be any different other than being a different size and make of motor? I've got the water pump kit on hand but before I start tearing it down wanted to see if there's any thing I should expect that might cause me fits. Thanks, John

Wrench, and everyone that put in suggestions to the fore-mentioned problem, thanks for the help/suggestions. The problem turned out to be the neutral switch assembly within the motor which I didn't realize was there till after I got to looking at the schematics. Traced the wire back from the starter relay which had no power to the neutral which did have power (when key was turned over) to it but not coming out. Checked the connections to make sure the plunger was being depressed and also manually depressed and still no power out from sitch to the relay. Bypassed the switch, turned the key and it fired right up. The cutting out problem I'm almost certain was a fuel line primer bulb problem as there was no fuel in the filter bowl and no going in when squeezing it. Order the switch yesterday and already replaced the bulb, once the switch gets here and I get it installed i'll be back on the water. Thanks again all John

so with a 12v light tester there should be no power like there is now. If that's the case then nothing wrong with the switch and the problem is in under the cowling somewhere.

Red: power (check) Black: ground (check) Yellow: key turned to power on (check) Blue: choke, power on when pushed (check) Brown: neutral switch power on when key turned to start (check) White: ignition stop circuit ( no power????) should there be power coming from the ignition switch to the kill switch, would think so. If so would it be a bad ignition switch or kill switch. kill switch is snapped in to proper position. Green wire comes in and is capped off. (no power to it?) Thanks again for the help and suggestions.