flytyer57

Stream Etiquette Rule #1 In order to maintain good relations with the landowners and as a common courtesy please remember the following: most land adjacent to the water, unless it is state land, is privately owned whether it is posted or not. Crossing private land to reach a Public Fishing Area is neither legal nor ethical; especially when simply asking permission usually produces a favorable response. Please be aware that other fishermen would like to fish there too so don’t spoil it for the rest of us. Rule #2 The first person in a pool or run has the fishing rights to it. If the stream is not crowded, give the whole pool to the other guy. If it is mobbed with people, make sure that you are at least a long cast (80-90 ft,) away from anyone else; more if the water is crystal clear. Rule #3 While working the stream and you see another angler casting to rising fish or not moving at all, get out of the water and move well past him before entering again. This also applies when another person is fishing from the bank. In both situations stay far away from the edge so you don’t spook any of the fish. Rule #4 Whoever is working UPSTREAM has the right-of-way. If you are going downstream, get out of the water. If you are going up, hope the other guy has read this. Rule #5 If you meet another fisherman who is just sitting on the bank, ask from a distance if he is resting the pool or his body. Some people wait for a hatch at a particular place. If that’s the case, then get out of the water and go around him. Rule #6 The most important rule is naturally the one that we always forget whether fishing or doing something else: “Do unto others as you would want them to do unto you”. When encountering someone else on the stream, put yourself in their waders and think. Remember that the streams belong to all of us, and the other guy has just as much right to be there as you. The above rules of etiquette are simple. The more people that follow them, the more enjoyable the experience will be for everyone.

count me out too.

Do you still use silk lines too?

I try to match the leader/tippet to the line/rod I'm using. I don't want to use 0X on my 4wt and I certainly ain't gonna use 6X on my 9wt. Right now on my 9wt, I have a 12# leader/tippet. On my 7wt, I have 0X. On my 6wt, I have 4X. On my 5wt (if I ever get it back from repair) I have 5X. On my 4wt, I have on a 6X leader/tippet. Of course I may go up or down one or two -X sizes for these, except the 4wt. That will always stay a light presentation setup for smaller flies like the size 14 woolybugger I have tied on now.

The only Orvis product I have is an Orvis Reel storage. Then a couiple years later, Fishpond came out with one exactly the same. Kinda with I could have waited or known about the future. Other than that, I tend to stay away from Orvis. Too expensive.

If you can find a 7½ footer...

My least favorite hatch has got to be the everybody's fishing my hole hatch. Next would be those darn size 24 midges that have been coming off the Norfork every morning and evening. I can't see a hook that small to tie on an imitation. I tried some size 20 Griffith's Gnats to no avail. As long as the bigger fish keep hitting my size 8-14 woolybugger though, I'll be ok.

I paid $30 for that Cortland. If I was closer to Springfield, I'd had paid an extra $9 and got another Hobbs Creek at BassPro. It's not that bad except for the line slips between the reel frame and the spool. If can figure out a way to keep the line from getting in between the reel frame and the spool, I'll be ok with the Cortland. Thing is, it's made of plastic. Might just see if I can put some epoxy in the groove that runs around the rim to tighten it up some. Lost a few fish now because I was trying to get the line on the reel right and not paying attention to fishing. Years ago I picked up a cheap Martin reel at K-Mart for a few bucks. It was my first fly rod (Eagle Claw) and reel purchase. If you're looking for a starter for the kid, I would check out the cheap rod and reels from K-mart or Walmart.

I usually buy SA leaders and tippets. I have found that mixing leader and tippet material doesn't always work out too well. The diameter of the material, even though they could both be 4X, 5X, 6X or whaterver, will not always be the same between companies. Last trip to the fly shop, they don't carry SA leaders, so I opted for Daiichi leaders. I did not buy new tippet since I have plenty of SA left over. Well, there is as much as a .002" difference between the two. The Daiichi leader is actually .002" smaller than the SA for the same size (4X)designation. I've used SA, Daiichi and Umpqua leaders. My preference is still SA, but since I may not be able to find it in Mountain Home, I may be switching to Daiichi leader and tippet material in the future.

Great idea.

Oh I definitely wanted to , but since I had been out there freezing my butt off since 3 AM, and they were about to start generating in a half hour, I just decided to call it quits instead of causing a scene. What really pisses me off though, is as I was packing up, this dickwad caught a big fish right in the area where I was originally fishing. I hope he ignored the horns and got caught up in the high flows.

That would be it. And only $10.

Why is it that when you are fishing a stream and for some ungodly reason it gets packed on a Sunday morning when the temp outside is 48°, that some clown always manages to wade into the area you are fishing. Casting a woolly-bugger and letting it swing down stream on a short cast of about 30 feet this morning on the Norfork River, some ignoramus just walked right in where I was fishing. I ended up having to cut my cast to about 20 feet so I wouldn't snag his dumb butt. Then on top of that, he started making his way up closer to me. So close did this fool get to me, that I was tempted to place a cast into the back of his head, and then say; "Oh sorry, did I make that 15' cast a bit too long?" Now I'm hoping this fool was not a member of OAF. One never knows. I do hope that he does read this post as a guest or anonymous user though. I want him to know that next time, I might not be so polite as to not say anything and just give up and go home. He just may end up with a size 8 bead head woolly-bugger in his neck. Sorry for the rant, just had to air this out.

Don't know about the warranty part, never needed it. They are well made. I wish I had some money now. I was forced into buying a Hobbs Creek reel from Bass Pro and then a Cortland piece of plastic crap from Walmart. I'd have much rather wished I could have afforded a decent Ross. When I get some cash, the Cortland is going where it belongs. In the trash.

Fer the stove. can't cook meth without it.

If so, I hope the quality of Ross Reels doesn't suffer. The few SA reels I have seen tell me they are pretty much low quality. I own 3 Ross Cimmaron reels and would definitely buy more Ross, but only if the quality is as good as, or better than the reels I own.

Sounds fishy to me.

Dude, haven't you heard? Golf is for those who don't know how to fish.

If you are stopped on top of the hump, your screen won't show a hump but level bottom. The right side of your screen always shows what is directly under your transducer. What appears on the right side of the screen is present time. What you see on the left, or scrolling to the left is what was there before. If the hump tops out at 10' in 20' of water, when you are on that hump, your screen will show 10 feet. If you are not moving, your screen will constantly show 10 feet. Once you start moving off that hump, your screen will start to show deeper water.

You should have been down here yesterday at 6:30 AM when I hooked that HUGE brown trout below the dam @ Norfork!!! I didn't have a net big enough for him so I tried to get him up on shore and he got off not 3 feet from me. And yes, I was using a 9' leader with about 2 feet of tippet. I changed to a 4X leader that is about 7½' and added about 2 ' of tippet.

Does your display scroll form left to right or right to left. Most scroll right to left. When you stop on top of the structure, your locator will still scroll from right to left and it will give you an update as to what is below the boat. You can hold on a piece of structure by checking the depth shown on the display. What you see on the left of the screen is old news and what you see on the right side of the screen is what is being updated (what is below the transducer). What you see on the right side of the screen is what you will be concerned about at all times, running or stopped. That is the newest information your locator is providing you. I know this sounds a bit confusing, but you will always be concerned about what the right side of the screen is showing. Some units will allow you to adjust the rate at which the screen updates (how fast it scrolls across from right to left.) Some units will also allow for you to display a bar like the old flasher units. This is more accurate than the little fish pictures. I hope this helps. Without being there to show you, it's kind of hard to tell you here.

I was at Blue Ribbon Fly Shop in Mountain Home the other day and saw a package of rod straps that you can use to strap your rods to the seat twarts. They were made by Chota. I tried accessing their web site for this product but it's not working. Check your local fly shop for them or visit Blue Bibbon Fly Shop in Mountain Home. They keep them next to the Simms boot cleats. If you want to see them, go to Chota's websiteand watch the little box with changing pics. They show them in there.

I try to keep the hackles no longer than the gap of the hook.

Better bring both Jimmy Walker Red and Black. It's gonna be a cold overnighter and a lot of dragging.

This usually only happens when the wind messes up my back cast, which was almost every cast yesterday with winds gusting to 18 mph. I will check my fly after a lousy cast from now on and see if this might be the problem.