Jeremy Hunt

Hello Flytyer, I'm not a fan of Mustad hooks, but the one I would recommend is the 3366 for substitution. The shape of the hook is key for crawdad patterns. If you want to tie bigger crayfish patterns I would say use the TMC 8089. These two hooks have the same shape and the bend is what is important when it comes to patterns you fish on the bottom.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

I usually don't tie weed guards on any of my patterns. The only time I do is if I'm fishing on top in the thick Lilly pads. I have found over the years they are more trouble than they’re worth.

Your welcome, anytime.

Really cool, thanks for sharing. That was the highlight of my day!

Hello everybody, This is Jeremy Hunt of Taneycomotrout.com, and I just wanted to drop in and say ‘hello’. If you are at all interested, please click the link below to sign up for my comprehensive newsletter. The subscription edition offers exclusive content written by White River guides, along with special discounts on flies and guided trips. Also, be sure to check out the TaneycomoTrout.com Web site for updated reports and professionally-written fly fishing articles. Building this site has become a passion, and I am working diligently to create a resource that will help anglers get the most out of their White River Basin fly fishing experience. Subscribe to the newsletter

I would have to agree. Hey Leonard, what's up with your site? Also, I notice that some of your photos on photobucket that are on Ozark Anglers.com aren't not uploading on the tying recipes. Just thought you would like to know, maybe you do....

We had a good fly tying class tonight at Lilley's Landing. I just wanted to say thank you to those who came out to be a part of it. Hopefully, we will continue to see some new faces with each upcoming class. Beginners are welcome, and if you don’t have a vise, we can furnish one. Those who don’t want to tie are encouraged to just come and watch.

Class will start at 7pm.

Yep, I’ll be back tying at Lilley’s Landing starting this next Tuesday. I will also be furnishing materials for class and have a few extra vises for those who want to get started but don’t want to spend the money. I will be covering shad patterns as well. We all know this year will be a great year for the Shad Kill. You don’t want to miss out! We will also discuss how to fish these patterns after we tie them. I’m looking forward to seeing some old faces along with some new ones. See you there!!

Great point! Now that you mentioned different colored waters, that makes since now that I think about my fishing experiences.

Another topic that I can add some “hype” to is UV tying materials and how trout relate to it. I’m sure there are a few of us here that have started tying with the UV dubbing that Hareline came out with about seven years ago. It started a "frenzy", and everybody was using flies tied with this material at Taneycomo. The only thing that I don't like about that UV dubbing is how purple the fly looked when it was finished. I always thought that the heavy shade of purple was just a bit too much, but I cannot say it didn't work - the fish would tear up UV scuds. I stopped fishing The Hareline UV two years ago because it became the status quo. I thought the UV bite was not the “hot” thing anymore and the trout were getting wise to the purple. What I’m trying to get at here is that there are recent studies out that try and determine whether or not trout really key in on UV colors - the results confirm that trout are drawn to certain colors, including UV. Loon came out with the UV "Knotsense" product to help with solidifying knots. The accompanying UV light used to dry the nail knot when using Knotsense can also be utilized to let you know if materials or thread have UV in them - just shine the light on the stuff you are curious about, and it is easy to tell by the reflections. This last year, I’ve really been experimenting with UV dubbing blends and threads just to see if it increases my hook-ups. And it did. We all know trout are attracted to bright colors, and when you add sunlight and UV dubbing to the mix, the fly stands out even more. I was wondering if anybody else has been playing around with UV, and what are your thoughts on this topic?

I like Shannon. He's also the one who came up with the p&p. I'll have to tie a few of those up you mentioned. If it came from Shaonnon I'm sure it works. Yeah Trout_bum, I feel the same way about copper, low light conditions is when it works the best for me. And that color (rusty dun) thread is a staple color for alot of my bugs.

Thanks for posting Zach. I would have to agree on presentation, but having "that" perfect pattern plays a big role on consistent hook ups.

Hey Zack, lets see those patterns

Thanks DaddyO!!!

Again, I appreciate everybody giving their thoughts about midge patterns, but let’s get off the zebra midges. I would still like to see patterns that are tied with copper beads. Keep them coming….

So do you find one works better than the other depending on the year? I still think gold will beat copper 100% of the time hands down.

Zack, what patterns do you use with copper beads. Pictures would be nice, but anything would be helpful to us fly tyers.

It really is Zack. I really don’t know what color midges would be once they die off. In all my fishing I’ve only notice that once they die they are on top of the surface, but not much changes as far as the color like lets say scuds. We all know they turn orange. So being that the copper bead is dull makes since why it wouldn’t work in the sunlight like gold. The best luck I have with copper is on low light conditions. BUT WHERE ARE THE PATTERNS? There as to be patterns that are “hot” patterns tied with copper beads, or is there? I’m beginning to wonder if I should leave copper out of the tying equation all together. Things that make you go hmmm…….

I would have to agree 100% on this one!

I treat all my dries with watershed as I finished them in the vise. But none of it matters once you get the slime coat from the fish. I find myself retying another fly on once this happens. I wish there was something out there for that. Most smaller flies that are hackled to death don’t have the same problem, but anything tied sparsely like the big ugly or crackleback have issues staying dry after you catch a few fish on them, unless you false cast enough, but sometimes that can get tiredsome because you have to cast aggressively to whip the water off. I would rather tie a fresh one on and not spook the fish casting as much. I think the key is to make sure you have enough of that one pattern that works well. If you only have two in the box, you’re asking for it.

Zack, I also agree with the under water theory. And some of my favorite patterns are the ones you mentioned. But the topic is about copper beads and what patterns are out there that people think are go-to patterns tied with a copper bead. That’s what I’m interested in.

I’ve fished all those patterns, they work, but surprisingly not too well on tailwaters. I think they're too fancy is some sort of way. I still think the easier (midge patterns) the pattern, the better if you know what I mean.

Gavin, It really depends on the pattern. I would say gold, then nickel and then black, but black is only used for rusty midges for the most part, unless I’m fishing at night. The black has to have the “mirror” look to really work well. They also have a dull finish, but the fish don’t like it as much. I like nickel the best with red variations, but you just can’t beat gold. I’ve had more luck not even ribbing the fly with wire, just thread and beads. Keep the thoughts coming. But I told you, nobody has much to say about copper.