Often, older patterns are as or very effective than some of the more realistic patterns. I very much appreciate this pattern. It has caught trout from Wyoming and Colorado to Wisconsin and Michigan and down to the midwest streams of Missouri and Arkansas. I used it for steelhead on Lake Michigan as well. I have used 4 color variations, one for the large Golden stone, this one for the large black, and varied off to brown and more olive
mixes of dubbing. It was the latter that caught steelead in Wisconsin, especially Door County Penninsula.
The think I like about the pattern is simplicity to tie, it's durability. Brooks believed that trout "can't count" and the image of the fly vs. realism was more important, especially for an insect tumbled in current. I am not knocking any other pattern but this particular one has been very effective in my flyfishing. I wouldn't be without it, tied say, sizes 4-10, weighted heavily or slighly depending on water being fished, etc. The smaller pattern does the same thing as the Prince Nymph or the brown.
This is the variation of the Brooks stonefly that I tied...you can find this in the book, "Larger Trout for the Western Flyfisherman" by Charlie Brooks, or in Jack Dennis' :Western Trout Flytying Manual".
I altered the pattern to fit materials at hand and one of the two styles of aptterns that Brian carries. Due to high water, a heavy fly was absolutely necessary.
Size 4 or 6 hook - I used common Mustad streamer hook, 9672, but Tiemco 200R
would also be good. For this pattern though, I prefer the
former.
Weight: cone or bead head or lead weight appropriate to the size of hook.
tails: I used a dark green forked quills
abdomen: Peacock Herl with gold wire ribbing(I used pretty heavy wire to
show through the herl)
Abdomen: either black or very dark greenish black dubbing.
Gills: Ostrich herl, white or gray
legs: Gray and grizzly mixed or just gray hackle. (pull one side of hackle
from stem).
tie in the tail, attach wire and then peacock herl, wrapping it forward to the bead-head...over wrap with wire for segmentation.
tie in the ostrich herl and feather(s).
dub the thorax. I think the best combo was very dark black fur. I mixed in some extremely dark green as well but not sure that it made any difference...the color of this was darker than the peacock herl anyway. two tones to the body work in most cases.
Wrap the feather for legs, for the length of the thorax and tie off behind the bead.
Over-wrap that reverse to the feather with the ostrich herl...this helps trap air bubbles and adds life to the pattern as well as making the thorax section of the life more durable--wiggle the herl as you pass it around the thorax to keep from pinning down the feather fibers...the ostrich herl providing strength to the pattern.
Charlie Brooks believed in strong patterns and used a lot of glue during each step of his fly construction.
Here is his pattern list:
hook 4010, 9672 Mustad
thread: Black Mono
weight: Underbody, lead wire (or substitute beadhead)
tails: Goos Quill-Black or gray...
Body: Black Fuzzy yarn
ribbing: Brown dyed flat nylon Monofilament
Gills: white or light gray ostrich herl
legs 1 grizzly and 1 brown dyed grizzly
Generally construct as I highlighted above.
Best regards, David Bell