Vintage Boat Motor Problem

[jdmidwest]

Took the motor into the shop to make it run. Bought it last spring and could never get it to run long. I had replaced plugs, fuel pump, carb kit, hoses, and fuel tank. Every time I would do something it would start and run, just not well and had probs idling. Last time it run was duck season in Nov. Took it into marine shop for them to figure out. Called today and said it had overheated and had water in one cylinder. Water pump was working while I was using it, must have happened with last owner.

Anyhow, is an old motor like that worth anything for parts. Would it be worth a repair or should I just forget about it and move along. I know there are some on here that like working with the vintage stuff. Any thoughts? My only motors in the past were wooden paddles, never had a use for a motor boat where I go. Just been trying something different.

[Crippled Caddis]

Took the motor into the shop to make it run. Bought it last spring and could never get it to run long. I had replaced plugs, fuel pump, carb kit, hoses, and fuel tank. Every time I would do something it would start and run, just not well and had probs idling. Last time it run was duck season in Nov. Took it into marine shop for them to figure out. Called today and said it had overheated and had water in one cylinder. Water pump was working while I was using it, must have happened with last owner.>

Not to be a PIA but only to point out that outboard waterpumps rotors are made of rubber. Since they are subjected to heat, lubricants and other enemies of rubbers, both natural and artificial, they should be the very FIRST thing replaced on old outboards---as a matter of course, despite any assurances from the seller that he recently replaced it. Your story is so common that it is almost apochcryphal. "It was working fine when I left the dock"! Or "It was pumping like a firetruck in the testank". Old rubber waterpump rotors lose their flexibility. They 'take a set'. They may still pump a bit at low RPMs but simply disintegrate at speed. You're far from the first to be bit---it's all too common in fact. Many who fiddle with outboards suggest replacing water pump rotors every other year just as insurance. Since they are readily available, (any NAPA auto parts store can order them) seldom over $20 and normally a simple task replacement is a virtual 'no-brainer'. (NO insult intended or implied!!!)

<Anyhow, is an old motor like that worth anything for parts. Would it be worth a repair or should I just forget about it and move along. I know there are some on here that like working with the vintage stuff. Any thoughts? My only motors in the past were wooden paddles, never had a use for a motor boat where I go. Just been trying something different.

They do have some value depending on what parts are still in good fettle AND if you can find anyone who needs THAT motor. For illustrative purposes only I recently bought one exactly like yours with a good powerhead on it for $10 to use as a parts donor for one I have. HTH, CC

[Trav]

Reminds me of my 61 Fastwin Evinrude. I keep taking care of her and she is still putting along.

[WebFreeman]

I had a 62 Johnson and I loved it. Had to replace the lower unit and that was about it before I sold it w/ the boat. It's like your first car--always have fond memories.

W/ the price of new motors, I would look into repairing. I have NO idea what it would cost.

[jdmidwest]

Looks like it will be about $700 or more for repair. Found another one Evinrude 9.5 about same vintage, runs and alot less. CC, I pm'd last nite, did you get it? I did not know you could buy parts at NAPA, been stuck with local marine dealer. Charged me $9 for a spark plug last summer and I thought they must be something special. Found same plug at Wally for 2 something. I will take advice and change out impellor on this one before running just in case.

[Chief Grey Bear]

Looks like it will be about $700 or more for repair.

Looks like someone is trying to put the meat to you. Check out Ebay for parts or even parts motors for less than half that. Parts motors usually go for about $100, give or take. There are also a number of forums you can go to for tech help with this motor.

Motors of this size and vintage are as easy to work on as a lawn mower motor.

[jdmidwest]

It has a cracked cylinder and water in one piston, no compression. I think the thing had only been running on one cylinder all along, it never came up to full power or idled. There was water coming out of the outlet the few times I had it running, but not much. This style of motor never shoots out a stream, but the water impellor was probably shot. The head was discolored and pink instead of white like the rest of the guts. I sold it to him for parts for $ 75. I have been watching on Ebay for other motors for parts, picked up a service manual on there.

Would like to find a better source for parts.

I would like to see some links to the tech sites on motor repairs, I am normally a do it yourself kind of guy. Took me a year to give up and take it to a professional.

[Chief Grey Bear]

Ask and yee shall receive. Mind you, these are saved to the page as I found the site. A little navigation will get you to your destination.

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/topics/013697.html

http://www.everythingboats.com/asksurveyor...bs.pl?read=8128

Good luck.

[jdmidwest]

New problem, bought the 9.5 Evinrude and went thru it today. Removed the lower screw and water run out of it for a while before oil came out. Water in lower unit... Flushed and refilled. Checked prop and made sure no mono behind it. Popped the hood and started working. Kill switch wires all lacking insulation, added shrink tube to insulate. Spark plugs were black with oil, replaced. Cleaned carb and choke with carb cleaner. Replaced rinky dink pull cord with OEM pull cord. Greased all grease fittings to free up. Placed on boat and ready to go?

Why was there water in the lower unit?

[Crippled Caddis]

New problem, bought the 9.5 Evinrude and went thru it today. Removed the lower screw and water run out of it for a while before oil came out. Water in lower unit... Flushed and refilled. Checked prop and made sure no mono behind it. Popped the hood and started working. Kill switch wires all lacking insulation, added shrink tube to insulate. Spark plugs were black with oil, replaced. Cleaned carb and choke with carb cleaner. Replaced rinky dink pull cord with OEM pull cord. Greased all grease fittings to free up. Placed on boat and ready to go?

Why was there water in the lower unit?

Check your PMs.