Looking For A Certain Strike Indicator

[Adam B]

Does anyone know where I could find a strike indicator that is clear and designed kind of like the Thingamabobber? Or anything that is similar? Thanks alot. Adam

[Zack Hoyt]

I have seen guys use mini-ballons for indicators and heard stories of guys using rubbers......who knows....lol. Just out of curiosity, what are you looking to achieve with such a deal? I assume for when fish are indicator shy and such?

[flyfishmaster]

Adam,

Many years ago I heard of guy using a thing called a "Casting Bubble". This was for spin fishermen that wanted to throw out very light flies. I did a search for it and found that Cabelas has them and they do come in a clear color.

Clink Here for the LinK

Later,

FFM

[Adam B]

Zach I just thought that maybe my problem with not catching any fish was maybe because of the strike indicator I use? I just use those little pinch on sticker floats in white usually and I thought maybe they were scaring the fishys. Oh and Zach you think some time next month there would be any good low water for a guided wading trip on Beaver or if you even had a guide available around then? I might hopefully be able to get out of some work. Thanks Adam

[jdmidwest]

I use the pinch on foam floats in Chartreuse. It does not spook them, actually have several strike the float. In spring streams I think they better resemble duckweed that floats down the stream. It contrasts better with Amber Polarized glasses than orange or white.

I bought some of the 1/2" flour orange Thingamabobbers at Reed's Cabins last fall outside of Montauk. I have not tried them, still laying here on my bench. They come in white, pale yellow and red I think.

Westwater Products

[Zack Hoyt]

I agree with JD on the indicator colors. I stick with mainly white, chartreuse, and orange. I use the Big Kahuna indicators from Rio, but most of the time will rip them in half. I do the same with the palsa indicators. This makes them a tad tougher to see, but does wonders for spooky fish and also makes them very sensitive. The fish, for the most part, will see the top of the water easily, and see the disturbance. When dead drifting, alot of guys assume the fly goes directly under the indicator......wrong. When fishing with an idicator, you want your cast to land with the fly downstream of the indicator. This give the fly a drag free presentation(ie the current at the top of the water is flowing at a different rate than that below the surface.....so an indicator will "drag" the fly after it). In slower moving water and deeper pools, it is alot harder to get this drag free drift....obviously the fly will hinge straight down from the indicator. This is especially true with beadhead flies.

Back on topic.....lol.

I will tear a Big Kahuna or palsa in half and fold it over the line. Also there are a few compnaies that make indicators out of fly lines. The old timers will use worn out fly lines this way. Cut a slit down the center and you can adjust how long you want them. I havent used one, but there are a enough companies carrying them that some people do.

(There should be some good wadable water coming up. Lakes are near power pool, so barring a substacial rainfall, we should be in good shape. There have been alot of mid-day sections of low water recently. I am trying to look at the SWPA site every morning early and will try to post predictions. Next month should be great for a trip. Just let me know what day works well for you.)

[jdmidwest]

Back on topic.....lol.

I will tear a Big Kahuna or palsa in half and fold it over the line. Also there are a few compnaies that make indicators out of fly lines. The old timers will use worn out fly lines this way. Cut a slit down the center and you can adjust how long you want them. I havent used one, but there are a enough companies carrying them that some people do.

Hey, I resemble that remark.

Us "oldtimers" buy a cheap level 8 wt Orange fly line of the cheap variety in the bargain bin, use our nippers, and strip the plastic part off the fiber core, thread the plastic floating part on the leader, and use it when we need to "Finesse" a trout with a size 18 or smaller nymph. You don't even have to split it, just thread it on a braided leader or tapered leader and it is pretty well adjustable the entire length. Old worn out lines do not usually float that good.

[Zack Hoyt]

I knew that would get a respnse from someone......lol.

I haven't tried this yet, but have a few questions regarding. Do you have much issue with the knots if it isn't a tapered knotless leader? Also do you have any issue with the indicator moving during the cast?

I assume as an "old timer".........you use a pretty relaxed cast. I lean toward a med action rod myself, but am wondering about someone who throws a fast action rod and tight loops. I run into the "walking indicator" when using the rubber band ones.....especially with a newer fisherman who has not got the smoothness down. Appreciate the input.

[jdmidwest]

While nymphing, I usually use Orvis braided leaders or a leader I make myself out of braided material. The extra thickness holds it in place. When I use tapered mono leaders, the indicator is above the tippet/leader knot and it usually stays there. I only use the setup in shallow runs and clear water where a larger indicator will take attention away from the small fly I am fishing. It does not carry much weight without sinking since I only use a section about 1 1/2". Unless I streamer fish or dead drift, the only portion below the water surface is tippet on all my nymphing setups.

I typically lean to a medium 4 or 5 wt rod like the Orvis HLS, Superfine (Old and New Series), or Zero Gravity. I only used the rubber band ones in Alaska when I was using bigger flies and rods, and they tended to walk around. Locally, I never use more than a palsa float, or a small foam bobber with a toothpick.