Bass Pro Xps Fluro

[zipstick]

Cabela's flourocarbon in the blue box has performed wonderfully for me this winter. Still on the same spool of 8 lb, caught over 300 bass, and had one break off which I think was my fault. By the way, it comes in 400 yard spools and does go on sale. Don't know who makes it but it has the same dull coloring as Seaguar.

[edyer]

I have use Triple Fish Flourocarbon in the 12 and 15 lb tests. WOrked well and only costs $9.99 for a 300 yard spool.

[OzarkKid07]

I have fished Vicious 12 lb. fluoro exclusively for a year and have had no problems at all with it. Actually, I think it's been one of the better lines I've used in my life. I have started using P-line copolymer in 8 pound for some applications just in the last couple months, but will definitely be using the Vicious this year again. It is tough enough for fishin' in the stuff, it reels smoothly for long casts and crankin', and is one of the most sensitive lines I know of for worm and jig fishing.

[Fat Boy]

Segar = feel more bites = a whole lot more fish in the boat

[getfished]

I've had good luck with BPS fluoro in 14#. I rarely use braid. Trilene 100% for everything else works for me.

GETFISHED!!!

[CaptainJoe]

I guess I am the odd man out on this one.

I do not use any fluorocarbon line. It just does not hold up for me. Get it tangled and that part of the line is history. It is brittle and breaks too easy in Winter. The knot strength is not good. It is overpriced.

I use a hybrid line that is nylon on the inside and coated with fluorocarbon. I use P-Line Floroclear and YoZuri's copolymer line. The copolymer construction makes the line very castable and amazingly durable with high knot-strength and low-memory. And, it is affordable. The fluorocarbon coating gives it the same near invisibility under water.

The P-Line is just a little thinner than the YoZuri, so I use that in extreme finesse situations. All other situations, I use the YoZuri on: braid leaders, crankbaits, spinnerbaits, ratl-traps, etc.

[steveearle]

Joe--

To each their own but I think you may be missing out some things, such as the super sensitivity of fluoro. Many of the formulation have changed and you should give some different brands a try. I think you can overcome the cold issue, but there are some things to watch for. For example, most people think fluoro has virtually no stretch, this is not true-it simply stretches differently. It does not stretch like rubber band (mono) it stretches under heavier pressure, elongates, and then stays that length. This is why the line will break easier after you've pulled on a snag.

Try some Trilene in the cold and let us know what you think.

What Wayne started to elude to is that alot of these lines are different. There are 2 forces (or 2 mind sets) working with fluoro. One is making a very pure, super sensitive fluoro with very high abrasion resistance (this is what initally killed the market until Seaguar came out with its product--they were simply too pure, too stiff, and too expensive). Lines like SunLine Shooter and Toray Super Hard fall into this category. This makes them great for flipping but a nighmare on spinning equipment. Other manufacturers have gone the route of mixing/coating their lines for castability and handling on spinning equipmet. Seaguar has examples of this within their own line and you can actually feel the difference. The Carbon Pro is more pure, feels rough, and is more pure. InvisX feels caoted and is made for smoother handling and better knot strength. Trilene and some others have done a good job with mixing the 2 trying to get the best properties out of the line for all applications. Like many other things, you get what you pay for, although there are some exceptions.

The fact is there is not one single line is cure all, just like the other things we fish with. Everything has it own application/s. For example, I have in my arsenal: 6, 10, 12, 15, & 17 lb. Trilene 100% for finesse & bottom applications, 25 lb. InvisX for flipping, 10, 14, and 17 lb Stren Origial green for crankbaits and spinnberbaits, 20 lb. Stren flourescent for night fishing (LOZ), 14, 30, and 50 lb Stren Sonic Braid for drop shot main-line, topwater, and flipping....and thrown in some 6lb. BPS Excel for crappie....

[powerdive]

I'm with CaptainJoe--I've given up on fluoro. After trying 5 different brands, the toughest I've found has been Stren Fluoro--but for me, they've all had knot breakage problems. As a walleye guy, I fish a little differently than most of you do. For trolling leaders (behind leadcore) or tying harnesses, it's usually Yo-Zuri hybrid (great stuff) or a good monofilament for me. For jigging, spooning or casting stickbaits, I use braid right down to the business end.

Fluorocarbon is a great idea (assuming we can really understand how a fish sees underwater), but why does this issue keep coming up? Only one possible answer: because there's definitely a problem with the stuff.

Bottom line, it's caused way too many heartbreaks in my boat. You can have it!

[Champ188]

I've found Trilene 100% to be tougher and more sensitive than other flurocarbons. I do use Vicious some, especially when practicing for a tournament, but when the money is on the line I prefer the Trilene 100%. Vicious just doesn't seem as sensitive to me.

[Gary Lange]

I have been using the Seaguar InvizX for about a year now on both Baitcasting and Spinning and have no problems. I have been using a new knot called the Fish n fool and it is very strong and once you learn it is easy to tie.

http://blog.lunkerlinks.com/fishing-techniques/fish-n-fool-knot-pt-2/