Rebuilding Carb On 2004 115Hp

[J-Doc]

Well that stinks. At least you know your carbs are rebuilt and you saved money doing it.

Post a question on the Iboats forum. I bet they can get you an answer or idea to help chase down. On older motors like mine, it sounds like a coil or power pack would go out.

Matter of fact, I bet thats a possibility. My buds Johnson Venom had a bad power pack. Bogged down, wouldn't plane out, etc. Replaced itand it ran good. He had a pinched wire later that cost him 500rpm one time. Electrical is funny like that.

Try Iboats. Don't make it a planter yet. :-)

[Stump bumper]

Try Iboats. Don't make it a planter yet. :-)

I have had it there for a while no replies, two pages back already. I am pretty sure it is a stator or triger. Ethier way it means pulling the flywheel, then there is the cost of parts over $300 and I am not into resetting timming so that means a mechanic, so until I have a full time job,I am just out a boat.

I have bad luck with mechanics, seems they charge what they want, everytime I get a quote it ends up being twice as much so I will have to have an extra thousand hanging around to get someone to look at this and that won't happen anytime soon.

[Ranger Dave]

I have had it there for a while no replies, two pages back already. I am pretty sure it is a stator or triger. Ethier way it means pulling the flywheel, then there is the cost of parts over $300 and I am not into resetting timming so that means a mechanic, so until I have a full time job,I am just out a boat.

I have bad luck with mechanics, seems they charge what they want, everytime I get a quote it ends up being twice as much so I will have to have an extra thousand hanging around to get someone to look at this and that won't happen anytime soon.

[Ranger Dave]

I would recommend taking it to a mechanic just for a diagnosis then replace what they said it bad. The diagnosis couldn't take more than an hour so the charge would be about $100. Changing the power pak is simple; just taking off some wires and putting them on a new pak. I have never changed a trigger but in my experience, the trigger doesn't fail that often.

[J-Doc]

I would recommend taking it to a mechanic just for a diagnosis then replace what they said it bad. The diagnosis couldn't take more than an hour so the charge would be about $100. Changing the power pak is simple; just taking off some wires and putting them on a new pak. I have never changed a trigger but in my experience, the trigger doesn't fail that often.

I agree its the powerpack. If it boggs under a load and did it all sudden like, it's probably the pack. Idles great, revs up good on muffs, etc. Put it in the water and try to get on plane and nothing. Seen it before.

If it were the stator, you'd have other symptoms.

A mechanic can run some quick electrical tests and should be able to determine power pack without having to take it on the water.

If you haven't gotten a response on Iboats, post another response and you'll get noticed quickly. Most guys there can tell you how to check it yourself with a volt meter and know for sure what your issue is. Your repair manual should be able to troubleshoot as well.

Wow......someone pass the popcorn. This is getting intresting....

[Stump bumper]

I am confused as to what is a "power pack"? From the stator the power then goes to the voltage regulator then to the CDM Modules. Replaced the voltage regulator about a 2 years ago and one CDM module. Those CDM modules are harder to test than you think, they have four leads that plug into together and has be tested with the engine runnind, if you unplug one to test the engine dies so ccan't be done with a simple voltage meter.

This model engine also does not use a switch box, I could probally get a CDM Module and move it from cyl to cyl until I ruled out a bad one but that is $70 for a part I might not need and at this point just don't have the funds.

Just for some background about two years ago, I had a ground come off the battery while running that burnt my wiring harness up, had to replace the wiring harness, voltage regulator and one cdm module at that point. I replace the wiring and voltage regulator(it had melted) mechanic replaced CDM module and thru away my new champlian spark plugs replaced with NGKs and charged anothe $75 for that.

Since all the wires from the stator and triger were fried from that fire, that is what makes me think the stator has finnialy gave way.

Thanks

[Ranger Dave]

Based on my experience, stators either work or they don't. The stator must be working or you wouldn't have any spark for idle. The stator generates the voltage to charge up the capacitors in the CDM module (the old models had all 4 modules combined into one box which was commonly referred to as a "power pak" or a "switch box"). The trigger then "triggers" the respective CDM modules. Since your engine only idles on the top 2 carbs, you could have a CDM problem on one of the bottom 2 carbs and you wouldn't know if until you get above 1200 rpm (point at which bottom 2 carbs start kicking in). You can make sure all 4 plugs are firing by using an inductive pickup timing light. Place the inductive pickup coil around each plug wire. If the plug is firing, then the timing light will trigger. If you find a plug that is not firing, swap the associated CDM module with a CDM that is working. If the problem follows the CDM module, the module is bad. If the problem stays with the plug then you have a trigger problem. These are quick and and cheap tests but you could also have some other problem causing the same symptom. You could spend a lot of money replacing unnecessary parts. You might be money ahead by taking it to a mechanic just for a diagnosis. You would have to pay for the diagnosis but at least then you would know what parts you needed to purchase instead of just guessing. If you end up buying parts, I recommend Performance Product Technologies (www.perfprotech.com). I saved over 20% of list. You might try posting on Bass Boat Central's Mercury Forum page. The sponsor of the forum is a Mercury Mechanic in South Carolina (or somewhere around there) and he will field almost any question you have. I can't think of his name off hand. He sent me his email address and I have been contacting him directly for over a year. He will send you copies of pages out of the Mercury repair manual and also give you detailed instructions and advice. You could also have a problem with the accelerator pump. Does it make a difference if you slowly accelerate as opposed to fast acceleration? Fast acceleration requires the accelerator pump to be working or the engine will die out because of fuel starvation. Slow acceleration will work without the accelerator pump.

[Stump bumper]

Thanks for the explantion of the power pack. It does not matter if I acclerate slowly or quickly, at first if I slamed it hard it would still go, now as soon as I shift into reverse or forward it dies, but only in the water. On the dog ears in the yard with the prop in the air, there is no problem at all.

I do agree with you about needing a mechanic to find the problem without chasing parts I probally don't need. It will just have wait until I find a job.