New Kayak With Modifications (Updated With Pics)

[TroutRinger]

I am picking up my kayak today and have some customization to do. One item will be an anchor trolley. It's a SOT without any hatches so I will not be able to use bolts to attach any of the deck rigging. What is your preference for attaching such items? Do you use any sealer? Advantages and disadvantages of your choice?

SEE PICS AND DETAILS BELOW

[yaknar]

Here's a link that might help you, but remember if you use rivets,use kayak rivets not rivets from Lowes. I have use both rivets and well nut with no problems.

http://www.sit-on-topkayaking.com/Articles/Instruction/BasicMaintenance.html#nuts

[yaknar]

I forgot to ask, what brand, how long, what color, and where did you get it from?

Is this your first?

An anchor?

What else are you plan on adding?

Will there be pictures?

[TroutRinger]

I forgot to ask, what brand, how long, what color, and where did you get it from?

Is this your first?

An anchor?

What else are you plan on adding?

Will there be pictures?

Just got finished (well kinda finished) working on it. Mostly done but will be doing some fine tuning and minor additions in time. I was EXTREMELY pleased at how perfectly everything was laid out. Didn't have to drill a single hole into the boat. This is my second yak. I will have more details and a lot of pics tomorrow.

[TroutRinger]

8ft Lifetime Calypso (fits inside my Explorer)

Has square back. Designed to be stored inside standing up which was key for me and my space limitations.

$200 from Walmart (yes Walmart)

Came with padded back rest and paddle. I was very pleased with the quality of both...not to mention they were free. Bought a $60 paddle for my old kayak and don't really notice a difference in quality or weight.

First three are of how it came.

Materials: 14x16 Sterilite crate from Walmart, multi-purpose wire, 2 zip ties, 11" pvc pipe, 1 bungee cord, 1 bungee loop thingy?, 3/16 braided anchor rope, 2 caribiners, and drill.

Front of the crate is connected very securely by the wire on both sides

Back is held down by bungee cord

The set-up is very stable and sturdy. Doesn't move at all. I am going to make one minor change to the rigging on the back to make it even tougher. I wasn't originally going to rig it up like this at all (front or back). However, I realized there would be some times when I would have to transport it on a roof rack. In which case, the basket could, but probably shouldn't stay on. With this set-up, I can take it on or off in a minute or two simply by twisting the wire and removing the bungee cord.

Mostly finished product. I am going to add one more rod holder. Used zip ties to hold this one in place. The yellow bucket is really just there for perspective. It is an empty cat litter bucket I use to store fishing stuff. There is a bungee running through the crate that holds the tackle boxes in place whether or not the bucket is there.

I still need to do some touching up on the anchor system. I need another caribiner, and once I find an anchor, I need to work out a storage system for it. I opted not to run the anchor trolley to the back although I could have. With a square back, I think it would swamp too easy if held down. By the way, what weight and type of anchor would you recommend. I was planning on getting a mushroom shaped one but don't know about weight?

I think I mentioned earlier how easy this set up was because of the great placement and numbers of deck loops and other fixtures. It also has the built in cup holder, 2 small trays, a paddle holder, and carry handle on the side. Overall I would give the layout a 10 out of 10. I spent $300 on my last 10.5' Sit-in yak. It had nowhere near the functionality of this one, with or without modifications, and it was awkward to carry and store. Can't wait to test this one out!

[Wayne SW/MO]

I've used an anchor system for years that consists of a rope loop that I fasten to the front handle. I use a caribiner for a pulley and run my 3/16 rope through it to a 3# dumbell, available cheap at Walmart. If you tie a loose loop around the dumbell it will drag with the broad front digging into the gravel. I run my anchor from the front so I know where it is at all times and I can also move forward if necessary to cut it loose with a minimum of loss. I generally turn my yak or my canoe around and into shallow water to anchor so I can drop a minimum of rope.

If you decide to put anything else on your yak that requires a firmer support than pop rivets, get some well nuts.

[TroutRinger]

Took a while to get it right, but I got the anchor system ready.

First off, the anchor is a 5# dumbell from Walmart. The line runs from the anchor through the loop for bow carry handle. It then comes in along the side and under the solid, side carry handle. It then runs through a carabiner (I might remove this step) and goes to a deck loop back, and left of the seat. From there it heads back up towards the solid handle where it ends at that clamp thing I found at Ace Hardware.

That final piece actually turned out quite well. In case of an emergency, it can be released very quickly simply by pulling the loose end. The end of the slack rope will also be attached using a quick release knot. Both releases will be close to each other on my none rod holding hand so they can be pulled easily.

I think I can simplify it a bit. If it doesn't work smoothly, I'll eventually install a clam or cam cleat.

[Wayne SW/MO]

If you tie a loose loop around the hand hold of the dumbell you'll get more resistance from it. Basically you want the blunt end of it to drag.

The problem I see with having the rigging behind you is that you'll be late in knowing something has gone wrong, such as dropping un-noticed. It's also virtually impossible to reach it behind all the gear.

[TroutRinger]

If you tie a loose loop around the hand hold of the dumbell you'll get more resistance from it. Basically you want the blunt end of it to drag.

The problem I see with having the rigging behind you is that you'll be late in knowing something has gone wrong, such as dropping un-noticed. It's also virtually impossible to reach it behind all the gear.

I am still playing with ways of making the rigging stop at the handle while still having everything removable so I can take it off for transportation. I may cave in and buy a cam or clam cleat, but I'll probably play with it a little more first.

[Wayne SW/MO]

I am still playing with ways of making the rigging stop at the handle while still having everything removable so I can take it off for transportation. I may cave in and buy a cam or clam cleat, but I'll probably play with it a little more first.

I fooled around with different ways of securing the line, but I think a small cleat is probably the best bet. I generally maneuver some to set up for anchoring so I never need anything fast. My favorite use is to swing around opposite a tailout hole and drop the anchor on the shallow gravel that seems to always be present on the opposite side.