Boat Mechanic

[Stump bumper]

As far as the power pack it is a newer motor and they no longer have power packs they have those cdi modules, one for each cyl and to check it or the stator with muti meter I would have to shave wires, then it might not show up that way since it is after the triger engages the high end of the stator it dies.As you can probably tell I have all through the repair manuel but with all those parts having chips it is really hard to get a reading where you need it at the time you need it.

I really think the problem is in the stator and I would not be able to pay a shop to replace one I would have to do that myself due to the cost of the part. It would be worth $75 to me just to find out for sure what is wrong.

As far as fuel yes I have drained the fuel tank twice and it has been setting up with an empty fuel tank and empty carbs for months almost a year now.

Thanks for the suggestion on the mechanic in Carl's Junction but it is further than I am willing to pull the boat right now.

J-Doc I hear you about needing more money but it has been a year without the boat and it is time to find out what I am saving up for, modules, stator, triger, all three? Guess I will just drive around, talk to all the mechanics and toss a coin and hope.

Bird Watcher I believe you had a pre 2000 motor and right now I wish I did too. They had wires leading to screws and you could test them a whole lot easier.If I am wrong about that maybe you can share how you tested yours?

[Bird Watcher]

Bird Watcher I believe you had a pre 2000 motor and right now I wish I did too. They had wires leading to screws and you could test them a whole lot easier.If I am wrong about that maybe you can share how you tested yours?

Yes. a 1998, but it didn't have screws. The solenoid on mine is a solid state piece with leads coming out that are spiced into the wiring harness. I just took my multimeter probe and stuck it up into the splices to read the output voltages while the motor was running. If I rember right, I was supposed to get 13.5v on the lead that went back to my battery, 12v on the lead that went to the coils, and something real light, like .5V on the lead that went to my tachometer. Don't quote me on those, I got the information out of a table in my repair manual. I was getting voltage swings from 11.9 to 12.8 on the lead that went to the coils, I believe. I called the mechanic and he told me the poles on my stator were getting worn if that was happening. I pulled the flywheel and replace and stator and sure enough, 3 or 4 of the poles had cracked epoxy and were starting to seperate. If you can get your hands on a flywheel puller, you can pull the flywheel fairly easy and see the stator to verify if it's getting worn or not before you order a new one if that's what you suspect.

[J-Doc]

J-Doc I hear you about needing more money but it has been a year without the boat and it is time to find out what I am saving up for, modules, stator, triger, all three? Guess I will just drive around, talk to all the mechanics and toss a coin and hope.

Oh I hear ya buddy. I've been without mine about that long now. Its torture. I miss my little boat. I really enjoyed it and can't wait to get it rebuilt. I hope with some luck that I can get it done this summer.

I'm just glad my buddy has a 21ft Alpha 211 Legend that I occassionaly get to fish from to keep the withdrawals at bay.

[wormer]

Have you tried running it with the cowl off so you can see what the chokes/fuel enrichment system is doing?

[Stump bumper]

Have you tried running it with the cowl off so you can see what the chokes/fuel enrichment system is doing?

Yes I have and on the hose everything works great, that pretty much rules out fuel problems, In the lake in neutral everything works fine, but cannot tell anything once it goes into gear because it won't run even for 1 second in gear in the water. Will run in gear on the hose though. I am 99%sure on the fuel system since I have cleaned, rebuilt carbs, replace fuel pump and hoses.

[J-Doc]

So as soon as you engage the gear, it dies? Is that with a load or in gear at idle? If its as soon as in gear without load other than minor turning of the prop, that is strange. Almowt sounds like lower unit but if unning in gear on hose, probably not.

I bet Daniel can tell you what is it. He is an authorized Mercury mechanic and has probably seen this before. Give him a call. He's usually busy early spring so he may have time now.

[Stump bumper]

So as soon as you engage the gear, it dies? Is that with a load or in gear at idle? If its as soon as in gear without load other than minor turning of the prop, that is strange. Almowt sounds like lower unit but if unning in gear on hose, probably not.

I bet Daniel can tell you what is it. He is an authorized Mercury mechanic and has probably seen this before. Give him a call. He's usually busy early spring so he may have time now.

I don't know how to describe at idle or other, just as soon as I shift to reverse or forward in the water it is dead. Runs great in gear on hose.

[J-Doc]

I know what you are saying.

I was doing a little searching and found this post on a forum. Granted, your motor was doing this before you rebuilt the carbs, it's still a possible solution and I agree that when you rebuild a carb, it should be adjusted on the water or in a proper test tank. Adjusting idle speeds, etc Sometimes the timing has to be adjusted slightly also depending on age of motor, etc.

Like I said, I don't know if this will solve your problem or help but it could provide some further information as to a possible problem or an additional problem that is compounding the original issue. I know your motor was doing this before the rebuild but this information is still usefull. I still recommend stopping in at Daniel's and seeing what he thinks he can do.

"Very often after cleaning carbs, motors are started and carbs adjusted while on the GARDEN HOSE.

Idle mixture MUST BE reset once ON THE WATER, as the addition of water in the lower leg, and exhaust passage, causes the motor to need additional idle mixture fuel.

Take your scredriver with you, turn each carb idle mixture screw out (CCW) 1/8 turn, launch the boat and try again.

Once running on the water, idle the motor in Forward gear and readjust each mixture screw in/out til the motor runs at the best possible speed. Take your time as it can take up to a minute to burn off any excess fuel after each adjustment.

Once running/idling at 'Best Speed' in Forward gear, further open each screw another 1/8 turn to provide the additional fuel needed for crisp acceleration. Test by rapidly opening the throttle WOT. Any hesitation of bogging indicates a need for even more idle fuel, open each again just the width of the screwdriver blade slot and retest acceleration. Repeat to perfection."

[J-Doc]

My gut tells me it's electrical but you say it runs on the hose in gear so thaty kind of negates that hunch. I still think it may be fuel related due to exhaust loading/etc. Replacing your water pump was good. What about the impeller? I'm betting you replaced it as well right? It could be a powerpack also.

Whatever you do.........DO NOT ENGAGE THE MOTOR AND REV IT UP OUT OF THE WATER ON A HOSE!!

I know, only an idiot would do such a thing.

Hello...

My name is Idiot. I need a rebuilt motor. I didn't know any better but I learned a very expensive lesson by trying to resolve a minor issue.

[J-Doc]

I don't know the newer Merc motors but this link makes me re-think electrical vs. fuel. Hope this helps. Granted this is for a Yamaha but the principle of having a faulty electronic part seems to make sense for your situation since it was doing this before you rebuilt the carbs.

If it is electronic, you're still doing the right thing rebuilding the carbs. I would have a mechanic test the fuel system if they can get it running just to make sure you rebuilt the carbs correctly. Carbs are finiky and improper tunning can toast the motor. I was going to rebuild mine until I found out how risky it could be. Even with a repair manual for my motor. I just don't have proper experiece for it.

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/2i04w-yamaha-fl115-engine-idles-reasonably-not-increase.html