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Posted

Ya, I put them on a 4 weight that I built for my buddy... but he never fishes so I dont really know how they held up. Im more worried about them breaking/bending when i fish out of boats and stuff... oh well theyre cheap and if they dont work I can always replace them.

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Posted

Update- Prices!

It looks like the blank is actually the lowest cost of this entire project. But the most expensive part (reel+line) would be transferable to a better rod if that opportunity ever arose. Or maybe I should just look for a good blank right now and be done with it forever. Back to the blank hunt, I guess...

I hate to break the good news to you but you will look long and hard to beat an MHX for finished stick performance. MHX, Rainshadow, and a few others are all giant killers.

Posted

Then it looks like my decision has been made.

This rod is for bass, white bass, carp, and if I ever make it out of the lower midwest- pike, salmon, steelhead, redfish, bonefish, and other saltwaters (maybe even roosterfish!). With a fast action and different lines, I think it should be able to throw flies for all of those equally well. I'm hoping that it lasts long enough for me to see all of those locations. Now to just get the money put together.

Rob

P.S- at $5 for a cheapo guide kit, they're kinda the cheapest part of the build. It's around $30 for the setup I really want, though.

WARNING!! Comments to be interpreted at own risk.

Time spent fishing is never wasted.

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P.S- at $5 for a cheapo guide kit, they're kinda the cheapest part of the build. It's around $30 for the setup I really want, though.

Conventional thought on this is that the rod is "till death do you part". Spend the extra $25 if that's what you really want. It's only a buck a year for the life of the rod. If money were tight take it out of your $75 line allowance. Line is to a rod like spark plugs are to an engine, constantly deteriating and then replaced. On the other hand, as we speak, I'm building on a blemished Pac Bay IM7 4 piece that I got real cheap. It will only be a portable backup and not a primary stick so I went low cost on the guide set (American Tackle chrome snakes). For a total cost of $82 complete it should be a really nice performer. If I can just fix up the scuff marks on the blank...

Posted

Conventional thought on this is that the rod is "till death do you part". Spend the extra $25 if that's what you really want. It's only a buck a year for the life of the rod. If money were tight take it out of your $75 line allowance. Line is to a rod like spark plugs are to an engine, constantly deteriating and then replaced. On the other hand, as we speak, I'm building on a blemished Pac Bay IM7 4 piece that I got real cheap. It will only be a portable backup and not a primary stick so I went low cost on the guide set (American Tackle chrome snakes). For a total cost of $82 complete it should be a really nice performer. If I can just fix up the scuff marks on the blank...

But on the other hand, casting a rod with a cheap line is like driving a car with a transmission that won't get out of first gear that lacks air conditioning and a radio. It won't cover much distance very fast and isn't that enjoyable to drive. But if you invest some money upfront and and maintain it well you can go long distances and enjoy it for quite a while. :)

I have spent most of my money on fly fishing and beer. The rest I just wasted.

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The latest Trout Commander blog post: Niangua River Six Pack

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Posted

A quick scan of clearnces brought up one site selling

Cortland 444 Classic and Precision WF8-F $20 was $62/66

SA Mastery Streamer Express WF8-F/S $30 was $70

Sage Performance Bass Taper WF8-F $40 was $80

Sharkskin Streamer Express was $30 as well but sold out in 8 wt. I haven’t had to pay MSRP for line since the early 90s and that was just because I was in a bind (one of the benefits of FF popularity). These cheap lines might be good enough for catfish. Not that we shouldn’t support our local shops but just saying.

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