Mastering the Drift: Tailwaters

[Phil Lilley]

One of the most popular, if not the most popular, relaxing ways to fish is drift fishing.

Just set the boat mid-stream, shut the motor off and relish only the sounds of the birds, the wind and the splash of jumping fish -- and yes, the occasional neighboring boat buzzing by. Cast, relax and let the drift do all the work.

The idea is simple: To present your bait as naturally looking as possible to the fish.

Trout tend to stay close to the bottom when the water is running for two reasons -- to stay out of the current and to stay close to the food. So that’s where you want your bait.

Now, what’s the best technique to sink the bait down -- and keep it there -- and still feel the strike -- and not get snagged up and lose the whole rig?

First, use the right amount of weight. Whatever you use, whether its split shot, bell weight, sock weight or lead core weight, you want the right weight to take you to the bottom and keep you there while still allowing your bait to skip over snags and not hang up.

Split shot is okay, but it probably is the worst of all choices. Comparably it has the flattest sides and tends to catch more than its counterparts. Bell weights are a close second. Walleye walking weights are designed to tick the bottom and hop over rocks, so I’d give them the next spot. But the weights that win, in my book, are the long, skinny weights. The can be made either of parachute cord loaded with split shot with the ends sealed by melting the fabric, or of lead core with either a hole punched in one end or surgical tubing with lead core stuck in one end. This makes a weight that has little surface to catch, and I’ve found to be the best.

But how do you rig this rig? Some use a three-way swivel, attaching the line from the reel to one loop, a tag line for the weights and a line for the hook. The weight line is usually a third of the hook line in length and can be much heavier in strength. So can the line off the reel. The line that the fish see is the hook line and this line should be four pounds in the winter and spring and two pounds in the summer and fall seasons. Hint: If the hook snags, you only lose that portion of your rig.

With the same idea of length and line strength, other rig conformations can be used. A store-bought drift rig consists of a straight line, about 40 inches long, with a hook tied on one end and a bell sinker tied on the other; a loop knot is tied 12 inches from the weight. It’s pretty simple and easy to use -- just tie a swivel on your line, clip it to the loop and you’re ready to fish.

Another method uses only the line on your reel. Tie a hook on the end, come up about 40 inches and make a loop knot creating a 6- to10-inch, non-slip loop knot. Then tie a small, simple cross knot at the end of the loop to keep the split from slipping out the end and attach your split shot to the loop.

One of my favorite ways to rig uses a technique I learned in Michigan, fishing for king salmon in the Pere Marquette River. Take the line from the reel and run a snap swivel onto the line through the loop, not the snap. Then tie a barrel swivel onto the line from the reel. The snap is free to slide up and down that line but not over the barrel swivel. Next tie your “tippet” to the barrel at about 30-48 inches. Tie your fly or bait to the tippet. On the snap swivel you hook your weight. I personally use lead core. It comes in two sizes, 1/8-inch and ¼-inch and can be cut to the length you need. I use a tool called a LeadMaster which is a pair of pliers designed to cut, flatten and punch a hole in the lead core. This technique is quick and easy to use and cuts down on losing rigs. Plus I get the bait to the bottom and it stays there. I don’t feel the bottom as much, which allows me to concentrate on feeling the tug of the fish. Because of the way the rig is set up, it allows the bait to move close to the bottom in a natural way, not appearing to be drug through the water.

Distance from the boat is pretty important. The bait should be about 50-70 feet away from the boat when fishing directly upstream. If you’re fishing off to the side, 30-50 feet is plenty of space. I tend to use less weight if I’m fishing off to the side because I feel I have more control and know exactly where the bait is to follow it better.

Wind plays a big part in drifting. The trick is to keep track of the bait by sight and feel. A trout won’t hold on to the bait for very long, and you have to be quick and hard on the hook set. Too much slack will cause you not to hook the fish, as well as sometimes to miss the bite altogether. With your trolling motor, try to keep the boat moving at the same speed as the current. If you can’t keep up, fish out to the side and keep your rod low to the water to prevent slack. You’ll have to cast, drift and reel in more, but that’s the only way to fish effectively.

Bait fishing, using worms, minnows or Power Baits are easy ways to catch trout on most tailwaters when the water is running. With night crawlers, pinch the worm in half and hook the worm anywhere from the middle or out to either end. When you feel a bite, let the fish take the worm by counting to three; then set the hook. For minnows, hook the minnow through the eyes and follow the same technique as night crawlers. Power Baits, either Gulp variety or regular eggs, are the easiest and most effective bait. Don’t load the hook too much. Use a #8 short shank hook and slide on two eggs. Hook them in a straight line, so they won’t spin in the current. Using two colors of eggs, generally white and some other color, works most of the time.

Drifting flies is a great way to catch trout in restricted areas. Egg flies are probably the favorites on Lake Taneycomo. San Juan worms, scuds, woolies and others are also extremely good. Rig them the same way. You can even use tandem flies. Tie one fly on, and then using a 12-inch tippet tied to the eye of the first fly, add a second fly. Our guides like using a San Juan and an egg … “Breakfast is served!”

Where to drift is a problem for many anglers. They make the same mistake repeatedly and then lose a bunch of rigs. Now that’s great for selling rigs, but it’s not necessary. Stay in the middle of the stream and away from the sides, especially off the bluff banks where there’s a lot of trees and brush. If you drift a certain section and consistently catch one or two fish each time, keep up the pattern because you’ve found a place where a large school is holding, maybe a hole or a rock, something that the fish like.

I know the bottom of the lake pretty well on Taneycomo in certain areas. When I’m drifting and come across a drop-off or hole, I hit the trolling motor and slow the boat down just a bit, letting the bait hesitate and drop down in the hole. Sometimes I’m rewarded for doing it just right – with a big trout!

Hope this helps next time you’re out fishing in high water. Keep the rod high, locked and loaded. Watch the rod tip for that tap and pull. That’s the key when a trout has picked your offering out of the current and is holding it, saying, “Set the hook!”

[alletec]

Great info Phil. I would like to add one thing to your presentation. Circle hooks, #6 or #8 size is perfect. I was using them on Friday 16th and I will never use a strait shank again for two reasons. One, they have a larger gap so when you put the power bait on there is more hook to hook the fish. Two, the fish can not swallow the hook. It is designed to hook the fish in the corner of the mouth every time. Now, I know what your thinking, "every time? No way" Try it and prove me wrong. I hooked 10 fish on Friday afternoon and every fish was hooked in the corner of the mouth. This is less stress on the fish and it helps avoid the temtation to preform surgury when a fish does swallow the hook.

I have used these hooks for cat fish over the years and did not know they made them in these small sizes untill I saw them in Phill's shop on Friday.

Keep stocking them Phill, I only have 8 left so I will need to restock next time I am down!

Jeff Alley

[Leonard]

I agree with Jeff 100%

when I discovered circle hooks.. I loved it... corner of the mouth everytime..

I could go bait fishing and release the one I didnt want..

these hook are great!!

[WebFreeman]

I've read on another post that you don't set the hook, just start reeling. Does that really work?

[bubbaray]

Jeff, I was going to switch to straight hooks this year because of killing so many with treble hooks. These circle hooks. Is this what they are called on the package. I'm thinking maybe I want to try this.

Thanks Kerry

[loo10]

Who is the manufacturer of these small circle hooks?

[WebFreeman]

I've searched today and found eagle claw makes them to size 12. I've never seen them at wally world, though alletec (Jeff) said Phil carries them. I've seen them in the BP catalog from about every manufacturer.

[Phil Lilley]

Do I carry circle hooks?

That sounds bad... I know I ordered some to check out... must have made it to the shop and on a shelf. What am I chargin' for them?

I got them from Hagens. I'm looking at the catalog now.

They have Eagle Claw 15/0... is that big enough for ya!?

Vanadium makes a #6, sport and sure set

That's the smallest in Hagens.

[WebFreeman]

15/0!! I bet that would be good for the squid....

[alletec]

Jeff, I was going to switch to straight hooks this year because of killing so many with treble hooks. These circle hooks. Is this what they are called on the package. I'm thinking maybe I want to try this.

Thanks Kerry

Kerry,

That is what they are called. Phill has put them in 10 packs in zip lock baggies.