Tying Question

[Rusty]

I tied my first clouser fly last night. Not bad if I do say so myself. What I am concerned about is the hourglass eyes want to rotate around on the hook. They are snug just not tight. I did the crossover wraps (figure eights) and then I wrapped under the eyes but over the hook to lash down and tighten the eyes to the hook. I then applied Super Glue to the wraps. However the eyes still want to rotate. What did I do wrong? Do I need to wrap tighter? I have noticed on some clouser flies I have bought they do not move at all. Will head cement work better for this?

[Danoinark]

What I do first is make a thread base to lay the eyes on. Then I put a good amount of super glue on the thread, sit the eyes down and wait untill they are dry. Then I begin my figure eight wraps fairly tight. This solved the same problem you are having.

Dano

[Steve Smith]

Rusty; along with Dano's advice, consider using Kevlar thread. That will allow you to really cinch down your wraps without breaking threads. Also, along with the figure eight, be sure to secure the dumbbells front and back. I don't use superglue on mine at all. I use a good soaking of head cement.

[Micheal Kyle]

Everyone has great Ideas And they all work, I will add one comment that I learned from Dave Whitlock if you will rough the hook shank up it will not allow anything to rotate.

[Terry Beeson]

Yeah... but Dave uses a BIG HONKIN' FILE to do that... But it does work!! I think he roughs up the whole shank on every hook doesn't he, Michael?

[Lshack2]

I have found that it works best to tie up several hooks with the eyes and let them dry overnight and then complete the clouser the next day. I use a drop of zap-a-gap about five or six wraps before I am done and it seems to do the trick. I also like to use red thread to tie in the eyes regardless of what color I use to for the clouser.

Larry

[jdmidwest]

I try to stay away from Superglue, it tends to react with stuff and dull or cloud things or leave a white powder. Flexament or nail polish make good thread sealers or head cement. You need to put down a thread base and you may want to coat it with head cement and attach the eyes while it is still wet and then soak it good after you are finished. I don't know about the roughing of the hook, I would think it could weaken the hook and lead to early rusting. On my bigger flies for Alaska, I have used a loop eye salmon hook which has a good flat area behind the eye to attach the eyes to.

[Micheal Kyle]

Terry yes he does and for the reason of it keeps the materials in place. Dave has written many books and has several DVDs out on the market. I think he has the tying mastered.

If you think that it might weaken the temper on a hook you can always re temper the hook heat up and plunge it in the cold quickly. In the event of rusting the glue will keep the hook from rusting. Dave also explains all of this in his 4 part DVD series.

[Crippled Caddis]

If you're using a pre-waxed thread then you're not getting full penetration of the thread with whatever cement you use. Thick cements won't penetrate well. Kevlar simply doesn't LIKE to soak up anything---waxed or not. Try a size A rod-wrapping thread to put the eyes on--it's supposed to soak up the finish.

Roughening the hook shank will not cause rusting----if you have a good coat of any lacquer or head cement the roughened area will be protected.

So lay down a coat of head cement, Sally or your favorite (superglue is NOT waterproof) on the shank (whether you roughen it or not) and put on a good thread base, coat the base with cement again. Then tie in the eyes being certain to keep the thread fully wetted out. You can put a LOT of tension on size A thread! when satisfied with the tie-in put a couple of half hitches or a whip finish on it, give the thread a final soaking of cement and set it aside long enough to achieve a full cure before finishing the fly. Overnight is good---- a full day is better.

If this doesn't work then you might wanta look into a MIG welder.;o)

[Rusty]

Ok, I have the eyes taken care of. What I did was, I did a complete thread wrap to about half way along the hook then I wrapped back about a 3/16" then I built a mound. I slid the eyes up to the back side of the mound and wrapped the eyes, then glued. Snug as a bug in a rug.

Now, when using man made fibers (slinky flash), how do you get the natural look at the tail instead of the straight trimmed look. This is a serious question, no x rated answers please. Not unless you PM them.