Danoinark

Some of you may have seen this. I always enjoy the trip. Dano http://www.youtube.com/slmaggard

Sounds like a good plan. You should be ok.

Oh sure it happens alot but typically to exposed pipe. I would drain that main in the crawl space, leave a couple of taps in the house open. Do you leave any heat on in the house? A thermostat set to 55 or 60 would help if you keep a furnace on.

got it on my watch list thanks.

I'd be surprised if it did...but a blanket of pipe insulation would almost insure it wouldn't. I'd make sure all of my crawl space vents were closed too. Dano

Thanks is that your listing? I suppose (3) on that rod designates the line weight. Dano

In the market for an Orvis Spring Creek 9ft 3", 5wt. Its a vintage 80's first generation graphite. Matching tube is a plus. Also consider other Orvis vintage. Dano

Everyone seen this? http://www.midcurrent.com/news/2010/10/missouri-may-ban-felt-soled-wa.html Sign on the White: http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq277/Splasheswithfishes/Guiding%2009/April/HPIM3384.jpg Dano

I've used Sally Hansen Hard as Nails for years.

Yep, this one's about run its course.

:lol:

It's well worth going just for Beeson's chips. Seriously. Dano

Nothing. I'll just use some of yours.

The frugal fisherman here again. Walmart sells a metal hiking pole that collapses into itself. I have one and it works great. Around 10 bucks. I just clip it to my wading belt with a carribeaner attached to a stretch cord. Dano

A bit more on Simms sizing. http://www.simmsfishing.com/site/custom_shop.html

Another option which I use is drill 3/4 inch sheet metal screws into felt boots. Works great.

You read me like a book pal....

Waders are another source for transfer. I think Terry B's thoughts are on target. Find a friendly agent to get rid of the stuff.

In all seriousness its not just waders that cause spread of this crud, your boat, canoe, pontoons and other fishing and recreation equipment also cause the problems. I found this info in my files. Just a little time spent cleaning helps. CLEAN -- There are several ways to kill didymo. Choose the most practical treatment for your situation which will not adversely affect your gear. * Detergent -- soak or spray all surfaces for at least one minute in 5% dishwashing detergent or (2 cups (16 oz.) or 500mls with water added to make 2.5 gal. or 10 litres); OR * Bleach -- soak or spray all surfaces for at least one minute in 2% household bleach (1 cup (8 oz.) or 200mls with water added to make 3 gal. or 10 litres); OR * Hot water -- soak for at least one minute in very hot water kept above 140° F (60° C) (hotter than most tap water) or for at least 20 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) (uncomfortable to touch). Absorbent items -- require longer soaking times to allow thorough saturation. For example, felt-soled waders require: * Hot water -- soak for at least 40 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) ; OR * Hot water plus detergent -- soak for 30 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) containing 5% dishwashing detergent; OR * Freezing any item until solid will also kill didymo. DRY -- Drying will kill didymo, but slightly moist didymo can survive for months. To ensure didymo cells are dead by drying, the item must be completely dry to the touch, inside and out, then left dry for at least another 48 hours before use. If cleaning or drying is not practical, restrict equipment to a single waterway. NOTE: The thicker and denser the material, the better it will be at holding moisture (and live cells), the slower it will be to dry out and the more difficult it will be to soak completely with cleaning solutions. When cleaning equipment, we recommend that you * soak porous materials for longer than the specified times to ensure saturation with cleaning solution * choose a decontamination solution that will not adversely affect your equipment * follow manufacturer’s safety instructions when using products * dispose of cleaning waste well away from waterways For Boats * Inspect every inch of your boat, trailer, and equipment – the hull, drive unit, trim plates, props, anchor, centerboards, paddles, wheels, hitch, chassis, etc. – and remove aquatic plants, animals, and mud from the boat, trailer and equipment before leaving any body of water; * Drain any and all water from your boat and equipment on land before leaving the area; * Do the following when away from direct drainage areas to lakes or rivers: -- Dump any leftover bait on land, especially if the live aquatic bait has been in contact with potentially infested waters; -- Disinfect live wells and bait wells, bilges, cooling systems, hulls, and decks with a 1:9 solution of household bleach and water allowing at least 10 minutes contact time. Rinse well to remove all residual chlorine. An easy recipe is a half gallon of bleach into a 5 gallon bucket then fill with water (or a quart of bleach to a half bucket). * Rinse your boat after use, preferably with hot water. If hot water is not available use tap water and then allow at least five days to become completely dry before entering a new water body. * Do not transport any LIVE FISH, BAIT, OTHER CRITTERS, PLANTS, OR WATER from one body of water to another.

I like Mustad....prices seem the best for me and they have been around for eons. This is the one I use 80250BR Dano

I'll not give up my felt soles until they pry my cold dead feet from them boots! Dano

Rolan, I still have some Peppy you gave me at the tying night at Phil's. I took some pictures but don't think I took a closeup of the bug. Dano

Best time for me is late Autumn to early Spring. Dano

...and bring some of that Hendrix Outdoors stuff to show off.

Ordered one of the trout maps myself, and also their smallmouth map.