jOrOb

Hello all!! Here is the list of patterns in the swap. 1 - John Jackson; squirrel zonker 2 - Duckydoty; Bunny strip leech 3 - Tim Homesley; Mohair leech 4 - Steve Smith; Golden Crackleback 5 - Don May; Brown Ant 6 - Liley; Primrose and Pearl Zebra 7 - Rolan Duffield; "Peppy" 8 - Matt Keener: Olive Soft Hackle 9 - Luke; Soft Hackle Scud 10 - jOrOb; Disco Bugger 11 - Kicknbass; Crayfish 12 - Dano; Blood Midge 13 - Michael; Brassie Emerger 14 - Matt Rohrer; #8 Prince Nymph 15 - Bear52; "Dead Chicken" Feel free to add your recipe with or without pictures.

Good one Phil! I love the Mackey bug for deeper slower presentations. I like the black and chartreuse and the tan and pink. Have you had success on any other colors? I met a woman at BPS last year that was tying one out of hares mask, and said she caught a lot of trout in smaller lakes using it.

I am sure red would be the ticket for trout. However, I have found that red is my least favorite color bead for Bream. I have better success with blue than red. Yellow, white, and orange are my favorites.

There have been a number of requests for a warmwater pattern lately, so I thought I would post my favorite one. It is a really simple streamer pattern given to me by Bruce Whittle at Sowbug when I first started tying. I love it because it is very simple to tie, and will catch bream, bass, crappie, trout, and even one really large Gar which I didn't get to land. unfortunately, Bruce never told me what he called the pattern, so I just call it that ostrich herl streamer. Materials list: Hook: #10 Aberdeen (#12 Streamer) Bead: Seed Bead (color your choice) Weight: 10 turns of .20 lead wrap Thread: Black 6/0 Uni Thread Tail: Grizzly Chickabou Rib: Copper Wire Body: 3 strands of Ostrich Herl I like the aberdeen hook because it is cheap and easily acquired at your local Wal Mart. Aberdeens generally run one size smaller than typical streamer hooks. The Seed Bead I used was from Wal Mart as well. I use several different colors, but this time I used Yellow because "perch like yaller." Debarb the hook and install the bead. Wrap 10 turns of lead onto hook and push it up against the bead to hold it in place. Start your thread and make securing wraps around the lead. Now advance thread back to the tie in point just above the barb. Tie in the Grizzly Chickabou tail. Make the tail about the same length as the hook shank. Snip out the excess and cover the butts with thread. Now tie in a length of copper wire and move it back and out of the way. Next tie in three strands of ostrich herl. Advance thread to just behind the eye. Now palmer the herl to form a nice fat body. The real trouble here is keeping the herl strands together. Tie off at the bead and snip out the excess. Counter wrap the copper wire around the herl to rib and strenghten it. Tie off at the bead and snip out the excess. Form a collar behind the bead and whip finish. The finished product! I have tied these with marabou tails, chickabou, even yarn. They catch fish.

I like that. It's a plan. Make sure you put it down in the big book of everything for Phil. Hehehe

Where are we going to post our recipes? I hate to add them as a reply to this thread, since it is already 3 pages. I figured we have three good options. 1: Start another thread here 2: Start a thread on the fly recipes section for each pattern 3: Start a thread on the Recipes section and have everyone add a reply with their recipe on it. It really doesn't matter to me, I just thought we should put them in the most friendly area, so I was looking for input.

I like the idea of posting the tying instructions online instead of trying to add them to the card. I have mine tied, and should have them in the mail tomorrow.

I read an article one time that talked about loading the rod during hookset. The author felt that a lot of "bass guys" had a tendency to actually create load when they took up the slack just before hookset. This load caused a quick snap which caused breakoff. With this in mind, I have always tried to take up my slack smoothly, then apply pressure after I feel the fish. I was having a lot of breakoff issues at the time, and this seems to have helped.

Tan on Taney!!! I have never found any one type any more effective than the next. Trout Crack is an excellent pattern, and uses a sand colored antron dubbing. It is an easy and effective pattern, but if you just want to wrap dubbing, the sand color is a good choice and antron works well. There is also a UV Tan that is a favorite of mine on high water. I would wholeheartedly agree with Jeremy that Tan on Taney is always a good choice. I also agree that simple is good. Get the shape right and you are fine. As for weight, I prefer little or no weight on the scud. I like to put a split shot about 6 inches up the tippet. That gets the scud on the bottom, but makes it free drifting as well. If you are not having success on tan scuds, then I would say your problem is weight. It is essential that you get your scud on the bottom and get a good drift. There are tons of opinions about how deep to fish, and how much weight to use. I like to use just enough weight and just enough depth that I see hesitations during my drift as the weight bounces off the bottom. Any deeper or heavier and the weight will snag constantly. Any shallower and you will not get a good presentation on the bottom. This works for me. I count a tan scud as the "go to" pattern on Taney. Although I think the Ostrich herl scud is easier to tie than the dubbed one.

Lately, I have been using a foam hopper pattern as an indicator for my midge patterns. It is working pretty well. With some chop, fish will take the hopper.

15 would be 1 extra wouldn't it? I mean I tied it, so I don't need one back, but it makes it easier on the swapmiester to have a full compliment and just make piles that are identical and ship them to everyone. I did read somewhere that it is a good idea to tie more, just in case one gets crushed or lost. Then if there are extras, they become a bonus for the swapmiester.

Ok, time to put up I guess. I will have them to you by Aug 1. Also, I would like to ask if everyone would mind to include a recipe which we could post. We wouldn't have to send it with every fly, but I thougt maybe Phil could create a section for recipes from the swap, and then everyone could post them online. The last swap I did, I got a couple of flies that worked well. Unfortunately, I lost them before I could reproduce them.

I used to have a duty station within walking distance to a small stream that held smallmouths. I love my job!!

Maybe 25 is too much. It looks like the swap has stalled at 10. I know that there are a few (like myself) that would get involved if the swap was close to filling but needed a couple more to filled up. So here is my proposal... Close the swap at 15 instead of 25. You can count me in either way with a Disco Bugger, and I would say there are more that will get in if it closes at 15. Dano, where ya at!!! What do you guys think??

I like the Davy knot on small flourocarbon tippets. I like the low profile of the knot, and it seems to hold better in Flouro than the cinch. I think that is because there is more friction when tying a cinch. Friction kills flouro. I stick with the cinch on mono. I even use the cinch on Flouro if I am using a large hook, but I am really careful to wet it. I don't mess with the Improved Cinch because there is little difference in knot strength, and I can tie a cinch using my forceps with little trouble. It is a convenience factor. But like Gavin pointed out, if you didn't have a pigtail, then it was a failure above the knot. That means your knot held so stick with it cause it is working.

Wind definitely helps to place baitfish in one location, as well as to limit their mobility. Wind also helps to impart action to your drifts. But I think the light penetration is the biggest factor. The trout just don't see as well with chop. With good chop, you can entice trout to take about anything with a good silouette.

My son has a pair of Finley Rivers. They are not breatheable, which makes them pretty hot. Also, he has had a leak already and he has only had them since Christmas. I say definitely go with a breatheable. I own a pair of BPS breatheables (the cheapest model breatheable at BPS) and they leak a bit. They are about 4 years old I think. There are a couple of previous discussion about good quality waders on here, do a search and you will find a treasure trove of info.

I have the big middle little feet thing going on as well. I am told that some of the better companies will custom make you a set of boot foots to your specifications. I talked to the guys at River Run and they suggested Orvis. The way I understood it was you had to get guide weight, and the manufacturer charged about $100 for the custom fitting, so in the $400 neighborhood. I went with stockingfoots.

Over on John Wilson's board they are discussing color and pattern for the trout crack right now. John varies the color of the v-rib more than anything, using both light and dark colors. Check it out at: www.flyfishingarkansas.com

Lately, I have been using the light in bright and dark in low light. However Red has fallen in there some. I don't guess I really know how I choose.

I have never had the pleasure. I have seen him on the water a number of times, and I like you keep saying I am going to go by and visit his shop, but I usually end up fishing instead.

Tan Scud Low Water, Size 18 High water, Size 12 There are a million different patterns that work, but if they are tan, they are fine.

I have never used copper wire to rib my g-bugs, but it makes sense. I guess you do well on it tied that way? I say if it works for you then do it. I personally dub a body and palmer the herl like a hackle. I can see how the wire rib would make it much stronger. Thanks for the idea Seth.

Yep, the P & P does have a copper bead. Or at least the way I understand it it does.

The Ugly is tied with black bead, green body, black wire, brown throat. Primrose and Pearl has a yellow (primrose?) body with pearlescent flashabou and copper wire. The Rusty is rusty brown thread, black bead, black wire. You guys should add the Green Meanie to that list too. Black bead, cream body, Light green wire, and brown throat. I like it better than the Ugly. Props to Leonard for that one!!