Phil Lilley

Take my word for it... it wouldn't last long. I've had some experience with unapproved signs. But you might ask MDC - Chris Vitello - about a design that they would approve... it might fly.

Feature is on Michael Kyle of Backcountry Outfitters. Outdoor Section

The one big thing that's changed this week... it's warmer! That about all. Fishing has been consistant for a couple of weeks now. So has generation- very little to none at all. I don't look for any generation either, even with the snow we've had. It might have equated to 1.5 inches of rain but most soaked into the ground and not in the lakes. Table Rock is still 12 ft below power pool so the Corp will conserve all they can. We had a busy weekend and fishing was good for those who braved the cold, snow and wind. The forecast - again very little if any generation. Weather is supposed to be mild with slight winds. If you're fishing above Fall Creek from a boat, bring your fly rod and use #14 grey or brown scuds under an indicator 3-5 feet deep on the channel drop or on the bluff bank. If trout are midging the surface, tie on a zebra and fish it 12 inches under an indicator and target feeding fish. Spin - throw a jig or throw a jig-n-float. Jig colors- sculpin, olive, brown, black, gray or ginger. I like a black/brown combo right now. Below the dam, drop in size scuds to #16 or #18 and take some different colors. San Juan worm with the slight runoff we are having. And midge hatches have been fairly thick so several midge patterns are working. Run a crackleback across the surface and see what happens. Use a stimulator as an indicator and catch 1 in 7 on a dry fly- fun! Below Fall Creek, air injected night crawlers #1. Salmon eggs did well this weekend- sugar cured. And then your power baits... white, yellow and pink. Spin-0-lures are working real well- white with the red dots. And silver or gold cleos - very good on freshly stocked rainbows.

There's already a program in place and active- volunteers that talk to people about MDC code and rules on the water. I'll have to dig for the details. But I haven't much from the program or people actually doing the duty. Not down here anyway.

Right now about 45-47. It will drop till we get into July-August.

None that I know of. We have one 3/4 Team Lazy Valley has one 3/11 but you have to be a guest to fish it... I'm told.

Rolan Duffield, photo-bug, has graciously volunteered to lead the rod building forum. Thanks Rolan!

White- my guess is the decals haven't been put on- they are "new".

I thought someone would catch on... Actually they were on a test run. These are new ducks to the fleet I believe but they rarely come up here and for good reason. I sent Jerry, our dock hand, out to inspect why 2 ducks went by and then a tug boat. My suspicions were correct- one had run aground at Short Creek. Jerry talked to one of them. They said they draft 5-6 feet of water so the chances of getting past Fall Creek's gravel bar were nominal. They said their goal was to get to the dam but again... they didn't know the lake's characteristics. As for trying to do business on Taney-- they have tried in the past but couldn't get a permit from the Corp- I think. There's been uproar about it in years past and now with the influx of boats from the Landing, I doubt it will happen, at least not up here. I'd like to see it- the first time they would make a run up past the bridge- approaching monkey island- there's a flotilla of boats parked all over the lake. They weave in and out and get past the first hot fishing spot. Then they come to the Cooper Creek area- docks and boats oh my! They manage to get past them, only to swamp a small jon boat with a couple of 2 kids. Then the challenge - Short Creek. Everyone knows boats clog up the channel there all summer long. Turn around- not enough room. Backup- that's along way to back up! Might as well start fishing and pray for generation!

I got these skins from a guy from the UK and posted some questions on his forum along with the url of OAF. That might be where the link is overseas.

Someone didn't make it to the dam...

Are they coming?? If they knew what was good for them they won't. If they knew what was good for them, they wouldn't have gone out today.

We had 80 users on the forum at one time... did someone mention OAF on a radio program or something? SportCenter?

Scouting out a new route? Better now be!

There ya go!

For me - jigs and soft plastic swimming baits (swimming minnows), lead heads, floats. Jigs - varied colors and sizes. Bright colored heads seem to be good at times. I do well using pink, chartruese, gray, purple marabous with bright red, chartruese heads. I throw 1/8th to 1/16th oz depending on wind and depth of water. I use 1/32 to 1/80th if using a float. Soft Plastic - swimming minnows, 2.5 inch are my favorite. Colors in order - smoke, chartruese, purple, lt blue, motor oil, white. Head color- same as above but I usually use a plain lead head. Size - 1/8 to 1/16th oz. I use 4 lb line exclusively. Prefer a fly rod over spin. If you're looking to buy swimming minnows (the original ones), I carry them on my online store at http://lilleystacklestore.com They are very hard to find, especially in all the sizes and colors.

Your report was warrented for sure. If nothing else it made some of us aware of the possibility. Chris did say they would keep checking the area for evidence of didymo.

I love the first one... great pose.

3 units at 707 ft... not bad! The rainbows in the trout cam are sure loving the action. Lots of "stuff" floating around. You must know, there's a pile of trout remains dumped in from the cleaning sinks just upstream from the camera. Anyhow- I cleaned the camera lense yesterday. I had to get my hands in the water and I mean it was COLD- ice cold. So actually this should warm the lake up a bit- that's a switch! Don't think this means anythings (running water this morning) I'm sure they aren't starting a trend or anything. I seriously doubt if they run it long or for the rest of the week... but they're proven me wrong before too.

Welcome... appreciate your willingness to share. Look forward to your input.

There'd be alot of unhappy campers....

Not at all... You'll do alot of dead drifting nymphs and stripping streamers and midge flies. In the moving water below the dam, dead drift #18 gray scuds, #16 red San Juans or #20 thread midges. In the outlets you can get away with using larger scuds- #16, #14. Drift them under an indicator alittle deeper than what the water depth is so that are on the bottom basically. Same in the rebar shoot. Between the outlets and below rebar, you can strip woolies (olive #14), cracklebacks or softhackles #16 across current or casting downstream. Retreive at differing speeds and styles- mix it up till you find the right one. That's a start. I'm sure we can point you in the right direction when you get here.

Chernobyl Ant Recipe: Hook: 2xl dry fly hook Sz 4-8 Thread: UTC 140 / color to match body Underbody: Krystal chenille or just a thread body. Thread needs to match the foam that will be the first underbody. Overbody: Two pieces cut to length /2mm foam Legs: Round rubber legs Indicator: red 2mm foam cut to length,. Tying Instructions Start your thread and advance the thread to the bend. At this point you should have already cut your strips of foam to length. When measuring the foam strips, you only need to make them hang off the hook on both sides just a little bit. Go ahead and tie your first piece on, but don’t make a lot of wraps because you will be tying a lot more on top of that first piece. If you notice that I have pulled back the first piece to wrap in front of that. I do that to keep the foam from sliding or spinning around to the underside. This will prevent that. The next piece of foam should be the same cut as the first one. Tie that on top of the first one and make sure that you are tying the thread wraps on top of eachother and not going side by side. The key is not to see a lot of thread wraps through the foam. And don’t do to many wraps. I do about three turns and then pull back and do one turn. The next step is to tie the little piece they call the “indicator”. This is cut to be small and only enough to see. Once you have tied all the foam on, pull back and do a few turns to lock them in to prevent them from shifting. This is a cool trick if you don’t know how to do it. Here we go. With one of the rubber legs. Put it in the jaw of your vise and what you will want to do is stretch it out and with a marker, slide the marker down in a smooth straight line. Only slide the marker down once. If you slip with the marker you will more than likely goof it up and have to start over with a new piece. Next thing you will do after you slide the marker down the rubber leg is let go of it and it should put the lines in the rubber. Just remember that you can’t let go of the rubber until you have marked it. You need to have it stretched until you mark it. Once you have marked all four, you are ready to tie them in. Wrap them around the thread and slide them up to the side of the shank. Then do a turn to secure them. Once you have the two legs tied in at the back. Advance the thread up to the eye and you are ready to do the same thing to the front. Fold over the foam and tie it down. If you notice to much hanging over the front, go ahead and cut to the length you desire. Fold the next piece over and tie that in. Tie in the other piece of the indicator and now you are ready for the next set of legs. After you have tied in the legs you are ready to whip finish the fly.

Rainbow “Trout” Pattern Recipe: Hook: TMC 777 SP Sz 4,6 Thread: UTC 140 White Tail: Marabou / white Body: SLF Dubbing w/ flashabou dubbing mixed. Marker pens: Prismacolor pink,olive,and black Eyes: 3/32 hologram dome eyes Cone: Tungsten / Medium Tying Instructions: Slide the cone before tying. Tie the thread on and wrap to the bend. Get one piece of marabou and tie it in at the bend. Go ahead and tie in the marabou shaft all the way up to the eye of the eye. Then cut off the excess. Advance the thread to the middle and make a dubbing loop to make the body with dubbing. Put the dubbing in the loop and then you will want to spend the dubbing loop until the dubbing looks tight in the loop. Before you start the spinning of the loop, you will want the thread up at the front of the eye. Once you have wrapped the loop froward, you will want to tie it off and start the cut of the dubbing. You don’t want any of the dubbing to be flared out because you will not be able to use the marker’s correctly when you start marking the fly. The first thing I do is get the pink stripe down the side. I also follow through the marabou a little. Not all the way down the marabou. Then do the olive on the top and the underside of the dubbing. At this point you should not see any white dubbing showing through. The last step is to start putting little dots all over the body and the tail. Don’t hold the marker down to longor you will create the marker to bleed and you really won’t see the distinguish dots. Note: If you want to put eyes on the fly. You can use the marine goop and use the dome style eyes.

Bead Head Egg Sucking Leech Recipe: Hook: TMC 5263 Sz 6-10 Thread: Uni thread / color to match body Tail: Marabou / color to match body Body: Mo-Hair yarn Bead: Lead bead 4mm / Fl. Orange , Fl Chartreuse Tying instruction Go ahead and slide the bead on first. Start the thread just behind the bead and wrap to the bend. Tie in your marabou at the back. What I do that is probably different then what most people do is I go ahead and leave the excess and tie it in until I get right behind the bead and then cut it off. That will create a body if you want the body to be bigger. Note: If you look at picture 5,and 6 you will see what I am talking about. You can’t see this step either, but what I do in this step is when you get the strand of mo-hair yarn cut to length. Wrap it around the thread and then you have doubled up the strand to become two strands and that will make it become a bigger strand to wind forward. It just makes the body bigger and meatier. Wrap the mo-hair yarn up to the bead and tie it off. Cut the excess off and whip finish the head.