Brian Wise

The Squidro is first and foremost a Steelhead tube fly....an Intruder Variant if you will. Now, I am speaking out of turn here (because I haven't actually tried it) but I would venture to say that a Smallmouth would DEMOLISH this fly. Check out the Squidro Tying Video that I made exclusively for Field and Stream: http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/fishing/bass-fishing/2013/11/money-bugs-squidro

First thing I would look for is a few buddies that want to learn how to row. If you have never fished out of one, one thing to consider is hiring a guide for a day or a half-day....see what they do in the boat because that is what you will be doing--you won't fish unless you have buddies that learn how to row with you. I have told a few guys this before. If you are going to fish by yourself more than with other people I would put the $ you would spend on a drift boat toward a couple of trips to the Keys chasing Tarpon, or Alaska.

I TOTALLY deserve catching crap for not seeing this.....thanks for the heads up Mic. I'm surprised after the last streamer swap (and my flies being a year and a half late) that I would have been thought of for this swap.

Good Work!

25lb was exactly what I used and, to be honest, I think they are pretty durable if you glue part of your finger to them. They can be clipped off for sure.

This is definitely a Musky fly if tied in the size in the video. But either way, it would HAVE to either be fished on VERY heavy tippet or with a swivel because the "Whiskers" make it spin like a top when it is being casted. Other than that it is pretty cool and on the surface the whiskers do move more water, add flash, and generally make for a cool looking fly. If fished below the surface, the sink-tip would have to be a mean one. T6+ and that is when you would have to really pay attention to exactly how long each whisker is so it doesn't spin in the water. I have used the flash-tied-to-heavy-mono-and-extended-on-the-tail technique before and actually really like it. It gives a completely different look to the fly and really swims cool.

Thanks a lot guys. You know, it really all started here with you guys. I threw a couple of videos on here and asked for your input so I need to thank you too.

That's the thing......Nick sent me some. I don't want to claim I know the mixture by any means because it is the best of both worlds when it comes to Wool AND Laser Dub....but, if one HAD to replace it I would go with Wool with some Ice Dub mixed in. It is WAY more complex than that, and I really hope Hareline or someone picks it up.

Thanks, feeling the pressure.....I have deadlines and everything. Also, just shot 4 videos with Steve Dally and Chad Johnson that will be coming out over the winter......looks like it will be a good winter of tying videos!

Hey guys, Recently I was contacted by Field and Stream Magazine to make some exclusive tying videos for their blog. They wanted some different stuff along with the streamers so over the winter you will see a tube fly, a topwater bass fly, and a topwater striper fly.....but the first in the series is this Musky fly (sized right it would catch trout, bass, peacock bass, etc though). Check it out! http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/fishing/bass-fishing/2013/11/money-bugs-panty-dropper

Mother's Winter Grind.....best coffee stout I have ever had.

It depends on the dubbing. If it is a long fibered dubbing that you are going to lash down in the middle and not "dub" like usual then you want the fibers to be as equal as possible so you don't lose as much when you brush it out. So what I do is take a bunch of dubbing that I plan on lashing down and pull it apart and stack it back, pull it apart and stack it back, over and over so the fibers are about the same length (or close anyway).

THANKS! The jig hooks are for sure the way to go if you are inverting the hook. It all depends on the action you are looking for, most flies tied on jig hooks are pretty heavily weighted so the action will be an up and down "jigging" action with the ability to fish DEEP and bounce off the bottom. If you super-weighting a straight-shank hook without inverting it would hang up on bottom constantly. With the jig hooks you can fish super deep and be pretty snagless. There is really no other movement besides that normal jigging action with one of these super heavy flies, but depending on what the body and head are tied with you can control how fast or slow they fall. I personally can't stand a straight up and down jigging action for brown trout (the species I will be chasing the vast majority of the time) but a slow fall with a straight up movement from the strip is pretty solid.

Hey guys, Here is the new tying video. This one took a while to get out because I have been shooting a series of videos for Field and Stream to release on their site over the winter. But I think the wait was probably worth it..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYp6HaJIbUo Recipe: Rear Hook Hook - Gamakatsu SP11 #1 Flash - Shimmer Fringe Tail 1 - Saddle Hackle Tail 2/Wing - Rabbit Strip Body - Polar Chenille Body Hotspot - Chubby Dub Front Hook Hook - Owner Sproat #1/0 Eyes - Aluminum Sea Eyes Body Hotspot - Chubby Dub Body - Polar Chenille Body 2 - Schlappen Head - Laser Dub

I had a threader at one time......no idea where it ended up. They are ok, but another tool for me to keep up with, pick up, drop, lose, etc.

That I do.

I have kind of wondered the same thing. I got a bunch of the heads as samples a couple of months ago. I honestly think the very small to medium sized ones you are just as good with CCG, but when you get to the large and very large ones they are definitely lighter than the same amount of CCG stacked on to the head of a hook. I agree Leonard. But for actually building almost weightless heads on medium - large flies.....CCG is unbeatable. I do find myself using Hydro more and more for quick-coating a whip finish too.

LIGHTNING!!

An articulated version of Nick Granato's Chubby Muffin. A GREAT Sculpin pattern! Recipe: Rear Hook - TMC 9394 #4 Flash - Flashabou (Multi-Colored) Body - Ice Wing Fiber Wing - Rabbit Strip Front Hook: Hook - Gamakatsu B10s Eye - Real Eyes Body - Ice Wing Fiber Gills - Red Schlappen Pectoral Fins - Partridge Wing - Rabbit Strip Head - Craft Fur Brush (marked with PrismaColor Markers)

FLIES in the mail today!! I threw in some stickers from Green Fish that have discount codes for Green Fish gear on them....SO SORRY for being so late guys.

Always possible. Like I said, I have pulled my boat across the river with hooks stuck to rocks and logs.

That is absolutely crazy. I totally see a #4 B10s getting banged up by stripers/hybrids, especially if it hits bone on the eat like you said. I have probably never had these issues because I only use #2 or larger B10s's. I have seen those #4's and I think I have #14 nymph hooks that are heavier wire.

I was pretty sure it was Blue Label, but it is for sure longer than 25 yards.

Marabou has taken a turn for the worse in the last couple of years, but there is still some pretty solid material out there. Break the tip off and tie in at the broken point, that way you don't lose the shorter material as you wrap up the hook.

Crazy. In what instances are you breaking them, Wrench? I have pulled my boat across the river with a B10s attached to a rock more than once. I REALLY like that 34007 for a trailer hook on a smaller articulated streamer (Dungeon, Circus Peanut, etc) and it's great for Clousers.... it just doesn't have the gap that I want for those bigger headed streamers. Mind the gap.