pinecone

I started flyfishing Taneycomo around 2005. We would usually make a spring and a fall trip, and it seems like every time I was there I ran into Duffy in the parking lot. He was always a great source of info for a beginner like me, as well as just a nice guy to talk with. It's funny, but the other day I was thinking about him and a few other folks I used to run into at Taney. Seems like every time during the last 5 years or so that I've been in the Branson area the water was too high to wade. I miss fishing there and I will definitely miss seeing Duffy.

I have really wrestled with the question of tippet material vs. fishing line. I use both the Feather-Craft 6X FC tippet and Seaguar InvizX 4 lb fishing line. I just can't tell a lot of diffence in the .001 difference. I visualize both of them coming off the same machine and put on tippet spools or fishing line spools. Of course if you ask the question in a fly shop I promise the more expensive tippet is always recommended. I don't know if there really is an accurate way to measure a diameter that is that close.

I agree. You can take two brands of line, both 6 lb test, and one is going to break eaiser than the other. I've seen it all my life. And no doubt the smaller packaging is going to mean higher costs. But I just keep visualizing the line coming off a machine somewhere, and the same line goes onto both fishing line spools and then on tippet spools. Only difference is the tippet is 10 times higher in price. I've got some great brand name FC line that comes in 200 yd spools that is .001" larger than my 6X tippet. Much, much less expensive per foot. I can't believe the fish can see this one thousandth of an inch unless it's under very unusual circumstances. I won't beat this to death, just wondering and would be interested in other opinions. Jerry

Phil, This brings up a good question. What's the difference between tippet material and regular mono or FC fishing line? I've found 2lb. line to have very close dimensions to 6X tippet at a lower cost. I've always had success using 4-6lb. mono or FC when fishing for browns on Taney. Just wondering?? Do you just use the triple surg knot on 7X and the double on 6X and larger?

I'm looking for an inexpensive back-up pair of waders. I've been happy with my G3's and I've found these Drift waders on sale at a good price. Anyone ever heard of them? They are about the same price as the cheapest breathable stockingfoot waders from Cabelas or Bass Pro and I'm thinking if you had trouble you probably would get better results from Simms. Any info??

Phil, Same for me. Under the sticky thread "generation" where I use to get the 4 charts/graphs I now get 4 "posted images" phrases. When I click on the phrase "posted image" it looks as if it is loading something, however it just continues to try to load and no image ever occurs. Sure miss the data. Jerry

Phil, What is the level of Taney with no units running? Jerry

Regarding the first picture from the hatchery, is that erosion on the back side of the dam from water running under hwy 265? Not sure I can tell what's going on and why 265 is closed. Jerry

For those using the 8lb Vanish, do you find it turns over reasonably well? Seems it would be fine in shorter lengths but not so good at 7' and longer. Also, anyone tried using good quality fluorocarbon fishing line such as Seaguar instead on regular tippet? 2lb is just .001 larger than 6X.

Is it possible to change out the felt soles to synthetic soles on boots or bootfoot waders?

Thanks guys. Good info. One more question. If you don't thread wrap the hook shank will the epoxy still hold it on the body. I tried a couple with 6/0 thread but I really had to open up the cut channel in the styrofoam body. It's going to take a lot of filling in to cover up the mess. The bare hook slips in real easy but don't know if the epoxy will bind to the shank.

I've got 2 Orvis Battenkill Barstock reels and for the money i don't think they can be beat! As with anything else, you may be able to spend a little more and get a better reel but I sure couldn't find any.

I don't collect autographs and try to mind my own business. I'll let him bring himself out of the closet. His personalized license plate substantiated who I thought he was. I'm just disturbed about not being able to enjoy Tanney fishing without wondering who will be hanging out in the parking lot when we get ready to leave.

Phil, My wife and I fish Taney at least a couple of times a year and often fish down by the MDC ramp. It is seldom that we don't encounter the classic "car backed in with a nervous looking guy inside". At first I suspected a drug deal and was very uneasy. After a few times it dawned on me what was going on. One of the guys we observed was a well known figure in Branson entertainment. This is all pathetic! Many times we fish until dark and we will be the only other ones in the parking lot. I assume if you mind your own business there has never been any problems, however I stay observant and armed. Perfect place to be robbed. These are not fun times we live in, but I'm thankful most of the folks we have met on the river are decent and nice.

Tastes just like Cormorant.

http://www.theflyfactory.co.uk/images/prod...nnow-albino.jpg Can anyone direct me to a link that might give me some help in tying an epoxy shad? It looks simple enough but I can't figure out how to finish the front and back of the mylar to make it look smooth. thanks

Thanks for the ideas guys. See my original post, WF so reversing on spool won't work. I had forgot about Whitlock's knotless system. I have a book by him but dismissed the idea that the knot would really hold. Guess I should trust Dave. I don't have anymore ZapAGap so I wonder if regular super glue (or the generic stuff at Home Depot) would work? I've also got some of the Cortland loops as I've got away from using them in favor of a short loop made out of 25lb Amnesia on end of flyline. This brings up another possibility. Just bridging between the two pieces of flyline with a short piece of Amnesia with a nail know at each end. A little more bulkier but with some Knotsense might work. I could try it and only waste about an inch of flyline if it didn't work. Jerry

Phil, For a perspective, what's the water look like at the old KOA lower campground? Is the pancake house now downtown? Jerry

I've got an old SA GPX 5wf line that I managed to cut right where the tip meets the belly. I repaired it with ZapAGap and it looked good. last year I put it on my wife's reel and she cast it very well. She caught some big browns at Taney in Nov up to 27". At the end of that trip on inspection, I noticed the line was barely holding together and I'm amazed she landed those fish. I removed the damaged tip. Now to my question: is there a way I could rebuild the tip section. Not for trout presentations but just to use in my pond for bream and bass? I'm thinking a section of mono might make it "castable" If so, what size mono? Maybe Amnesia about the length of the original tip. Any ideas? Jerry

Thanks for the quick replys. I had originally planned on going with the Silver Labels for both myself and my wife. I then noticed the Simms L2 and they seemed like my best bet. Like the Goretex! Since there are few waders for women will stay with the Orvis for my wife.

Orvis has a good sale going on the Pro Guide Waders. Anyone ever used these? Idon't know about the large pocket on the front, may or may not be of use. I know Simms seems to be the brand of choice but the Orvis warranty policy ain't that bad either.

Jeremy is a great guy and will always go out of his way to offer help. Flyfishing is way too addictive and should be controlled by the D.E.A. or some other large government agency. Jerry Longview, TX

I probably should have posted this in the fly tying section but I know a lot more of you that fish Taney keep up with this area more frequently! I tie scuds and wooleys for Taney weighted and unweighted. On the weighted I use various sizes/amounts of lead wire depending on how deep I want to fish. My problem is how to keep track of these in a flybox. How do you know which is which in your flybox. I can't seem to "feel" the lead wraps. I guess you could label a section, but then you get 2 or 3 on your vest and who knows what they are? My only solution so far is to wrap a red thread tie around the head of the fly if weighted. Got to be a better system? Jerry

I've been using a BBS II on a 4wt rod for a couple of years now and have been very pleased. A nice light reel that is a good value. I need a new reel for a 5wt Sage and would like the BBS III but have concerns about the fact that the BBS's are now being made in China as opposed to the ones made in England such as I now have. Can anyone tell me if the quality is still as good? I really don't need a large/mid arbor so my next choice would probably be a Ross Cimmaron at about $50 more.

Thanks Dano, Another advantage I can see to the DT is using both ends of the line to make it last twice as long! Funny you mention your tip sinking. I'm using GPX and I really like it but the stuff just doesn't float that great. I keep it clean and don't put anything on it like SA suggest. Unlike SA, Rio says it's OK to use a conditioner/floatant. I've got a couple of spools of Rio Grande coming but think I'll return them for the Selective DT. Any other input would be appreciated. Jerry