Nitroman

1) Remove all cables / wires from NEGATIVE BATTERY POST. 2) Connect alligator clip from 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT / CIRCUIT TESTER ( SHOULD BE ABLE TO PURCHASE @ ANY AUTO PARTS STORE ) to all cables / wires that you removed from NEGATIVE BATTERY POST, touch the probe-end ( POINTED END ) to the NEGATIVE BATTERY POST. If the test light bulb lights you have a " CONSTANT 12 VOLT DRAW " on your battery & that will draw down & kill the battery. If the test light bulb does not light you have some other type of problem. 3) To find the " CONSTANT 12 VOLT DRAW " begin by pulling fuses ( ANY & ALL FUSES ) 1 @ a time checking the test light bulb after you remove each fuse, if the test light bulb shuts off you have found the circuit that is causing your problem. The procedure is: pull the fuse, check the light bulb, bulb still on, go to the next fuse. Anything in the circuit could be the problem, switch, wiring, relay, device ( electric motor ) etc. Disconnect circuit components 1 @ a time till the test light bulb shuts off, when it does you have isolated the problem component. 4) If you pull all the fuses & the test light bulb fails to shut off your next step is to: remove 1 wire @ a time from the alligator clip of the 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT & check the test light bulb after you remove each wire. If & / or when the test light bulb shuts off you have found the problem, trace the wire to it's source, your faulty component. If the test light bulb is still on after all the fuses have been pulled & all the wires @ the 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT alligator clip have been removed ( ALL THAT REMAINS CONNECTED TO THE 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT ALLIGATOR CLIP IS THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE ) you have a component with a direct connection to the battery that is @ fault ie. IGNITION SWITCH, ALTERNATOR, STARTER, ENGINE ECU, RELAY, etc. How do you find the problem, start disconnecting things 1 @ a time till the test light bulb shuts off. HOPE THIS HELPS & GOOD LUCK !!!!!!! PS: DO NOT USE A CONTINUITY TESTER TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE. They look like a 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT but are not designed to perform this type of test. A DVOM with a LOW SCALE 12 / 20 VOLT DC VOLTAGE setting could be used in place of the 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT by connecting the DVOM negative ( BLACK ) lead to the wires / cables removed from the battery negative post & connecting the DVOM positive ( RED ) lead to the battery negative post. Using a DVOM can get confusing due to varying voltage readings from circuit to circuit so I will stop here.

SORRY ABOUT THE 2 BLANK POSTS GOT CONFUSED !!!!!!! Have had several insurance carriers, Old Republic thru BASS back in the days, State Farm, & others. The last few years it's been BOAT U.S. no complaints & they seem very flexible in the type of coverage & limits that they will let you set up. There are a whole bunch out there including PROGRESSIVE. Get quotes from several, make sure you can compare " APPLES TO APPLES " & " ORANGES TO ORANGES " coverage & benefits versus premiums deductibles etc. & go from there.

The key words: FLOOD CONTROL. I am impressed, they did so well & controlled it so well that they allowed it to rise 2&1/4 feet higher than the record set in 2008 & be even more devastating than 2008. No one was predicting rain well prior to it's arrival were they, only every TV sation, RADIO station, & internet weather web-site. Whoever said they are now reacting & attempting to control a situation is correct. Rather than learning from 2008 & being pro-active & " CONTROLLING THE CONTROLLABLES " as any one with common sense would of done. I forgot, those highly educated, degree carrying folks don't need any of that there common sense.

In answer to whats wrong with high water. Nothing if it is controlled & not allowed to do what just happened. If the water is allowed to rise above & into sewer systems as it did in Taney County the following occurs. Grinder pump wells become covered with ( lake / flood ) water, the grinder pump wells fill with water, the pumps turn on & run constantly which they are not designed to do. Most pumps eventually Fail & or short out due to the level of the water in the well & stop running which allows all waste water to flow into the lake. But, before that happens if enough of them are under water & running constantly they overload the pumping station & the pumping station can't keep up. But we were lucky enough that they let the water go high enough that both took place ( not to mention that they let the level go high enough to flood out some of the pumping stations ) which means, flush the toilet & raw sewage runs into the lake, wash clothes & waste water runs into the lake, wash dishes & waste water runs into the lake, take a shower & waste water runs into the lake. Any water used that would normally go into & run through the sewer system is dumped into the lake. This does not take into consideration the septic system fields that then dump directly into the lake & septic tanks that flood out & back up into the lake. Oh yeah I almost forgot the little known & or talked about septic ponds that flood out into the lake. So, whats wrong with high water ??????? As I said nothing if you control it, they did not, & the end result is the mess that we are left to deal with. Oh I almost forgot, that's a government run organization that failed to control the situation & created the mess, I guess they will be coming around to help us clean it up, they just have been to busy to let us know.

But wait, I am so confused, the USACOE Table Rock Lake Manager told the media & it was published that the USACOE was going to maintain the current ( approx 20,000 CFS ) discharge rate till Table Rock reached a level of 920. Now a rumor surfaces that they are going to cut back & possibly even hold the level steady @ above 920. I find it hard to believe that they would tell us one thing & then go & do something else. No they would not do that, so it comes down to either they as usual are not even close to accurate with their projections, or they need to find someone who knows what they are talking about & put them in that position. But worry not we have a 44.2 million dollar ( it's ours our taxes & fees paid for it ) auxillary spill-way just sitting there waiting for a catastrophic flood to occur so we can use it. Oh wait, once again, told one thing ( we must have this so we can use it ) do another as in don't use it. I do have to admit, maybe they forgot it was there or they just can't see it through all the weeds that have grown up around it. Let me say this about that, " To HELL WITH BRANSON LANDING " show me the button, I'LL PUSH IT !!!!!!!

OK, I got to vent some so I feel better. Here are the facts, for the last several days the lake has been dropping @ a rate of 5 inches in a 24 hour period. Currently we are @ 929.61 & dropping. So if we do some basic math ( which it seems the USACOE can't figue out how to do ) by Saturday 5/13 we will be between 927 / 928. I read a projection put out by the USACOE TRL MANAGER that said by maintaing the current discharge rate ( till a level of 920 is reached ) by the middle of July we will be @ 925 & 920 by the 1st. week of August. All I can say to that is, they must be doing some type of " NEW MATH " that I am not familiar with, I bet it's algebra, I failed that class. I guess they don't use any of our taxes & or fees to buy their USACOE staff any calculators. I forgot, they spend it on those pretty uniforms & name tags they wear.

And may I say, " AS USUAL NOT EVEN CLOSE TO ACCUTATE " !!!!!!! But what would you expect from a government organization that has to call a meeting to figure out: IF WE HAVE 19,000 CFS COMING IN FROM BEAVER HOW MANY CFS SHOULD WE DUMP INTO TANEYCOMO SO TABLE ROCKS LEVEL WILL DROP ??????? I can see them sitting around a table asking each other, what do you think, then OK lets vote, OK we all agree between 13,000 CFS & 14,000 CFS should do the trick.

Check out the RAPALA line of DIGITAL SCALES. I have used them since they were 1st. introduced. Very accurate & reliable. You should be able to find one that will fit your needs.

Call L&H Dock Service @ 1-417-779-4080 & ask to talk to Jim Best. He can be hard to get ahold of @ times, if so his CELL# is 1-417-339-6618. Call him @ his office 1st. If you have to call him on his cell tell him I gave you his #. Jim will treat you right & he will do the job right the 1st. time. He does not believe in nor will he get involved in " HILLBILLY ENGINEERING " which is very common around here.

glennL: With what you have described you should be fine, this is what I suggest to our guests when asked about winterizing & all have seemed ( it has not failed me over the last 35 years ) happy with the results. STEP#1: add MARINE FORMULA STA-BIL ( regular STA-BIL will also work ) & SEAFOAM into your fuel tank / tanks. STEP#2: drive to the gas station. STEP3#: fill up your tank / tanks. STEP#4: drive home ( mixes it all up for you ) & put it to bed. When I use to winterize ( don't any longer as I fish all winter ) for a little extra insurance I would also add HEAT to the mixture. NOT THE " YELLOW " bottle, use the RED 2 CYCLE HEAT for your application. Make sure you add at least the minimum prescribed amounts per the bottle instructions, more than prescribed won't hurt ( it will just smoke a while till you burn it off ) as long as you don't go crazy. If you are keeping your rig in a heated garage the odds are you won't get any condensation forming in the fuel tank / tanks as you will not have the temparture swings that cause it. But, " BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY " !!!!!!! As far as your lower unit, just pull the plugs ( both of them ) & nothing can go wrong in that area, as long as you remember to fill it up & put the plugs back in before your next trip. If you feel the need grab the garden hose hook up the muffs & run the engine for 5 minutes to get your mixture into your carbs but if you have been running treated gas during your trips this step is not necessary. Coating the cylinder walls & piston rings by pulling the plugs & spraying fogging oil into the cylinders ( the turning the engine over by hand a few revolutions ) is a good idea.

Gary: Thanks for all the info. & locations I have added them to my " TO DO LIST " !!!!!!!

Gary: Thanks for the info. will check them out. Couple of things we do miss about Chiucago & the real " CHICAGO FOOD " is one of them. Nothing like true Chicago DOGS-BEEF-SAUSAGE-POLISH-PIZZA & lets not forget GYROS. DAMM now I am really hungry. The only other thing we miss about Chicago is the BLACKHAWKS !!!!!!! I don't think they know what hockey is once you get west of Saint Louis on HWY 44.

No Sir. My wife & I purchased the resort in July of 2002. We were born & raised in Chicago. In 1976 I bought my 1st. BASS BOAT ( TERRY ABF 17 ) & came down to Table Rock & fell in love with it. Since then I have fished all over the USA & CANADA but every year either spring or fall I came back to Table Rock as it was always my favorite. So, when the time came ( 2002 ) & all the pieces fell in place we made the move & when my time comes as I did with my fathers ashes mine will also be spread around Table Rock.

Spinnaker: You retired lawyers just don't pay attention to the details. No need to waste your gas & time to drive into town for free WIFI. We hooked it up ( FREE WIFI ) back in the spring of 2008, it's available in all of our units for all our guests ( that includes you also ) to use. So when you pack up for your next visit bring along that lap-top. " GLAD IT WASN'T A SNAKE " !!!!!!!

BJ Boat Rebuilders in Nixa, MO. www.bjboatrebuilders.msn.com @ 1-417-725-1792 talk to Jim Taylor & / OR Superior Fiberglass & Marine Repair in Springfield, MO. @ 1-417-224-5108 ( CELL # ) talk to Rick Lisek JR. 1-417-831-1253 ( OFFICE # ) I have never found anyone who can & or would quote prices without seeing the work required 1ST.

Caught several yesterday on 4 inch single tail grubs. YUM OZARK SMOKE ( SMOKE WITH PURPLE FLAKE ) & BPS SMOKE WITH COPPER & RED FLAKE were the colors on a 3/16th.oz. or 1/4oz. head either MUSHROOM or SLIDER type. Other than that you got it covered, " GOOD LUCK " !!!!!!!

Fished it several times, spring trips were good with a large number of good quality fish up to 7 lbs. Saw several 9-10-11-12 lbs. but I wasn't lucky enough to have one on my line. Best bait was a 6 in. LUNKER CITY SLUG-O fished on either a 4/0 or 5/0 wide gap hook with a nail burried in the body for weight. Concentrated on the deep edge of standing timber along channels ( with weeds is best ) average depth about 10 feet. Technique was simple, throw past the timber let it sink on a snug line & retrieve like a jerk-bait, twitch - pause - twich. Most bites were a simple they would swim away with it. Also caught fish on buzz baits ( many around boat docks ) jig with trailer & off beds with lizards. Best color on the LUNKER CITY SLUG-O " NOW DON'T YOU LAUGH AT ME " was PINK !!!!!!! Mr. Babler told you the truth, they don't like cold water & strong cold fronts. During a fall trip we hit terrible weather & in a weeks time caught 2 BASS on rattle baits. Everyone else got smart after 2 or 3 days & went home. One of the biggest problems with the wind is that huge waves build & it's easy to ( as you are riding them ) be dropped smack down on top of a stump or standing timber. I have seen boats have holes punched in their bottoms or flipped over. I came way to close, I came down off a wave hit a stump on my right side & came close to flipping over. " BE VERY CAREFUL OUT THERE " !!!!!!!

Tried several, settled on & suggest the following: #1 VMC BARBARIAN in sizes 4 & 6 both BLACK NICKLE & RED, available from CABELA'S. #2 BILL LEWIS SET LOCK ( MADE BY EAGLE CLAW ) in sizes 4 - 5 - 6 both standard & RED, available from TACKLE WAREHOUSE. MATZUO'S SICKLE TREBEL looks interesting, appears very similar to the VMC BARBARIAN, worth trying a pack or 2. At times to give them something a little different to look at I will use a MUSTAD ULTRA POINT DRESSED ( FEATHERED ) TREBEL in size 4 on the rear, ( JERK BAIT ONLY ) RED or WHITE depending on lure color. Most times either a size 2 or 3 split ring is used. Good advice from " MOTOMAN " I put BASS PRO XPS RICK CLUNN SIGNATURE SERIES PERFORMANCE RINGS ( OVAL SHAPED SPLIT RINGS ) on any crankbait or jerk bait that does not come with one @ the line tie.

Have been using an on-board ( 3 BANK 10 AMPS PER BANK ) chargers for years now with no problems. I got real tired of carrying around & screwing around with 3 battery chargers so years ago when they 1st. came out I purchased one & installed it on my RANGER, never had a problem. When I purchased my NITRO I lhad them install one @ the factory again, no problem. I strongly suggest that you purchase a " GOOD OUALITY " automatic 3 BANK 10 AMPS PER BANK unit that will either automatically shut off or drop to a maintenance ( TRICKLE CHARGE ) when your batteries are charged & like wise increase the charge rate when needed. If you do, you simply plug it in & forget it. Next time you get to go whether it be a day later or a week later your batteries " ALL OF THEM " will be one thing you won't have to worry about. They are well worth the money & simple to install.

" APRIL" Either the week of the 11TH. &/or The week of the 25TH. MARCH: Better chance for bigger fish, not as many fish & weather could get YA but best chance for a " BIG UN " April: Overall weather is more stable ( warming ) = more fish moving shallow, the smaller ones make a decision much quicker to attack & eat & normally beat the bigger ones to your offering. May: Can be outstanding, weather has really settled in, if so good numbers of fish ( all sizes ) are up & active but certain areas of lake can be heavy with spawning fish which can make it tough & limit your options on how to catch them. Whatever you pick " GOOD LUCK " !!!!!!!

CAN WE ALL BE HERE @ THE SAME TIME ???????

Try DYNA PROP, INC. @ 1-800-874-8280 talk to Matt. OR CENTRAL BOAT & RV REPAIR @ 1-417-263-1299 talk to Jack.

LONG CREEK MARINA - CRICKET CREEK MARINA - HITCHIN POST on HWY 165 ( ACROSS FROM STATE PARK )