Nymphing For Rainbows

[flyrodman]

I want to know your different setups for nymphing to stocked and wild trout. Preferably indicator rigs

[mic]

I fish mainly small water, but I like a 7ft, 3x tapered leader cut down to about six feet. I tie a small ring (made for furled leaders) on the end. I cut down a foam indicator to the size of two small peas, fold them over just above the ring and super glue them together. Tie on a 4x tippet equal to the depth of the water plus a foot and a half. I tie on a foot and half of 5x, 6x, or 7x with a double surgeons knot leaving a six inch tags. Cut off the small tippet tag. Tie a size 14 brassie, weighted pheasant tail, or weighted hair's ear on the 4x tag. Then tie a size 18, 20, or 22 nymph or midge that is different from the anchor nymph. I fish this rig changing out flies until I get an idea on what the fish want and then go to a single nymph. If the fish are going after small flies, use the tag for split shot.

If I'm headed downstream, I'll fish the same rig with a wet fly, but tie the smaller fly directly to the wet. I'll dead drift the wet on indicator and then swing them at the end of a run. This is a great way to fist a short riffle. I swing the flies a couple of times at the head of the run, and then extend the drift a foot at a time until you have run the full length.

[Outside Bend]

Cerise works best for stockers.

Dark roe works best for streambreds.

[flyrodman]

  On 3/18/2011 at 2:54 AM, mic said:

I fish mainly small water, but I like a 7ft, 3x tapered leader cut down to about six feet. I tie a small ring (made for furled leaders) on the end. I cut down a foam indicator to the size of two small peas, fold them over just above the ring and super glue them together. Tie on a 4x tippet equal to the depth of the water plus a foot and a half. I tie on a foot and half of 5x, 6x, or 7x with a double surgeons knot leaving a six inch tags. Cut off the small tippet tag. Tie a size 14 brassie, weighted pheasant tail, or weighted hair's ear on the 4x tag. Then tie a size 18, 20, or 22 nymph or midge that is different from the anchor nymph. I fish this rig changing out flies until I get an idea on what the fish want and then go to a single nymph. If the fish are going after small flies, use the tag for split shot.

If I'm headed downstream, I'll fish the same rig with a wet fly, but tie the smaller fly directly to the wet. I'll dead drift the wet on indicator and then swing them at the end of a run. This is a great way to fist a short riffle. I swing the flies a couple of times at the head of the run, and then extend the drift a foot at a time until you have run the full length.

Very interesting Mic, never heard of that rig before

[duckydoty]

When fishing with an indicator, I have heard, the rule of thumb for how far your indicator is from the fly, is 1 1/2 times the depth of the water. Problem with smaller streams and creeks is the depth of water can change quite abit in a small run. I also dont like to indicator fish on smaller creeks because you will miss many of the bites due to the time it takes for the slack get out of the line and move the indicator when a fish strikes. This is very evident when site fishing with an indicator. Many, many times I have seen the fish take the fly and attempt to spit it (what I call chewing it)and the indicator never even moved. With polish nymphing techniques, you keep your line fairly , let's say, "tight" with the fly while leading it down stream with the rod. You will feel every take instantly. I rarely nymph fish in slower moving water, and this polish nymphing style really works well in faster moving water.

[flyrodman]

  On 3/18/2011 at 12:45 PM, duckydoty said:

When fishing with an indicator, I have heard, the rule of thumb for how far your indicator is from the fly, is 1 1/2 times the depth of the water. Problem with smaller streams and creeks is the depth of water can change quite abit in a small run. I also dont like to indicator fish on smaller creeks because you will miss many of the bites due to the time it takes for the slack get out of the line and move the indicator when a fish strikes. This is very evident when site fishing with an indicator. Many, many times I have seen the fish take the fly and attempt to spit it (what I call chewing it)and the indicator never even moved. With polish nymphing techniques, you keep your line fairly , let's say, "tight" with the fly while leading it down stream with the rod. You will feel every take instantly. I rarely nymph fish in slower moving water, and this polish nymphing style really works well in faster moving water.

How many flies are usually used in a polish nymph setup?

[mic]

  On 3/18/2011 at 12:45 PM, duckydoty said:

When fishing with an indicator, I have heard, the rule of thumb for how far your indicator is from the fly, is 1 1/2 times the depth of the water. Problem with smaller streams and creeks is the depth of water can change quite abit in a small run. I also dont like to indicator fish on smaller creeks because you will miss many of the bites due to the time it takes for the slack get out of the line and move the indicator when a fish strikes. This is very evident when site fishing with an indicator. Many, many times I have seen the fish take the fly and attempt to spit it (what I call chewing it)and the indicator never even moved. With polish nymphing techniques, you keep your line fairly , let's say, "tight" with the fly while leading it down stream with the rod. You will feel every take instantly. I rarely nymph fish in slower moving water, and this polish nymphing style really works well in faster moving water.

As I was learning how to fish the smaller wild trout streams, I followed this length rule. I was having the same problem, or I was snagging on the bottom all the time. When I changed to depth plus a foot, it really changed the look and feel of the setup. I don't have these problems as often.

Another reason I prefer to keep the tippet as short as possible is casting. On the smaller water, at least BSC, you are role casting a lot. With the longer tippet, I found that I would get the indicator in the right spot, but the fly would end up in overhanging trees, bushes, and grass. With all that said, it could be because I new to role casting, and I'm just over compensating.

[flyrodman]

  On 3/18/2011 at 1:25 PM, mic said:

As I was learning how to fish the smaller wild trout streams, I followed this length rule. I was having the same problem, or I was snagging on the bottom all the time. When I changed to depth plus a foot, it really changed the look and feel of the setup. I don't have these problems as often.

Another reason I prefer to keep the tippet as short as possible is casting. On the smaller water, at least BSC, you are role casting a lot. With the longer tippet, I found that I would get the indicator in the right spot, but the fly would end up in overhanging trees, bushes, and grass. With all that said, it could be because I new to role casting, and I'm just over compensating.

I heard the 1 1/2 times the stream bottom, but not length pus a foot

[drath]

When using small droppers in slow water I’ve had a lot of luck with a reverse para emerger as my indicator. This style Para emerger You can tie them with a small piece of bright foam at the top of the para for extra visibility. In shallow water I’ll tie my dropper on a long tag end of the emerger knot and deeper water (when I need more tippet) it’s easier to just tie it on the hook bend.

For big heavy nymphs like a #8-10 Montana stones and the like: In fast-ish water I’ll use ducky’s “tight” technique. But if it’s slow water and I need a good dead drift with a heavy nymph I have to break out the strike indicators. I have a hard time getting a quality, deep, dead drift without one and still “feel” the strike. I use the smallest one I can get away with and I do like the thingamabobber when I have to use a strike indicator. I always try to avoid this when going after wilds.

I’ve recently purchased my first snowshoe rabbits foot. I’m planning on tying some indicator flies with that. I hear the snowshoe rabbits foot is very buoyant.

I use a variety of furled leaders, uni, mono, and 100% fluoro for a fast sinker. 5-7X tippet.

-D

[flyrodman]

  On 3/18/2011 at 1:37 PM, drath said:

When using small droppers in slow water I’ve had a lot of luck with a reverse para emerger as my indicator. This style Para emerger You can tie them with a small piece of bright foam at the top of the para for extra visibility. In shallow water I’ll tie my dropper on a long tag end of the emerger knot and deeper water (when I need more tippet) it’s easier to just tie it on the hook bend.

For big heavy nymphs like a #8-10 Montana stones and the like: In fast-ish water I’ll use ducky’s “tight” technique. But if it’s slow water and I need a good dead drift with a heavy nymph I have to break out the strike indicators. I have a hard time getting a quality, deep, dead drift without one and still “feel” the strike. I use the smallest one I can get away with and I do like the thingamabobber when I have to use a strike indicator. I always try to avoid this when going after wilds.

I’ve recently purchased my first snowshoe rabbits foot. I’m planning on tying some indicator flies with that. I’ve hear the snowshoe rabbits foot is very buoyant.

I use a variety of furled leaders, uni, mono, and 100% fluoro for a fast sinker. 5-7X tippet.

-D

Thanks for all of the help