RSBreth Posted November 6, 2011 Posted November 6, 2011 I don't want any part of the glass/graphite cranking rods. They are always heavy, and have an overly "mushy" feeling. If there is any kind of rod that you don't want a lot of extra weight, it would be a cranking rod, because it's hard enough work to use crankbaits for a full day as it is. What I look for in a cranking rod is something in graphite that is medium light power and a moderate action. While finding a rod that is RATED medium light/moderate is rare, if you go to someplace like BPS or Cabelas and hold the rods in your hand, bend them, shake them, etc. you'll find that some are more "limber" and more moderate in action than others, even though they may all have a medium/fast rating...especially the cheaper ones. My current canoe cranking rod is a 5'6" medium light BPS Tourney Special...less than $50. And although I got a deal I couldn't pass up on a Loomis crankbait rod that I'm using for my longer boat fishing rod, I suspect the 6 ft. or 6.5 ft. medium Tourney Special would probably serve the purpose. I hate the goofy "Power Hump" handle on BPS rods, but I just sand it down. Al's right on like he usually is - I go for a medium modulus rod (cheaper) in a lighter power. I do like the Crankin' Stick for it's price point, but I use superlines or superlines/leader on almost every rig I throw, so I need a lighter power/action than most others straight mono or fluoro guys need.
DChance Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 IMO you want a "mushy" slower action rod for cranking. that is why the "cranking" style rods are like this. It is done on purpose. You do not want something too sensitive where you react and pull the bait from the fish. Rick clunn says these same things in this month's bassmaster mag. I got a Daiwa Light and Tough Crankbait rod from BPS catalog outlet store. A $115 rod for $50. It is pretty good. I also though am not a fan of the heavy rods, but seems to be the way it is with crankin sticks If you want to try one on the cheap, go to Wal-Mart. Our local store here has a Berkley Bionix Crankbait Rod for about $40 or $50. Seems to be decent too for cranking. I am not too proud to say I fish and have had success with cheap rods.
Al Agnew Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 IMO you want a "mushy" slower action rod for cranking. that is why the "cranking" style rods are like this. It is done on purpose. You do not want something too sensitive where you react and pull the bait from the fish. Rick clunn says these same things in this month's bassmaster mag. I got a Daiwa Light and Tough Crankbait rod from BPS catalog outlet store. A $115 rod for $50. It is pretty good. I also though am not a fan of the heavy rods, but seems to be the way it is with crankin sticks If you want to try one on the cheap, go to Wal-Mart. Our local store here has a Berkley Bionix Crankbait Rod for about $40 or $50. Seems to be decent too for cranking. I am not too proud to say I fish and have had success with cheap rods. I know that's the theory, but I think the "cheaper" grade graphite rods, if they have a fairly moderate action and are not heavy power, are just as good on the hookset as the glass rods, and they just feel a lot better in my hand. A fast action, heavier power graphite is not only going to be sensitive, it will also transmit your hookset more quickly and positively. I think that's the real problem with using good graphite rods as crankbait rods, not just the sensitivity itself. At any rate, I have absolutely no problem getting crankbait hooks into fish with the low mod graphite rods I use. I don't miss many strikes. I do occasionally have a fish get off after playing it for while, but that's because I'm lazy about sharpening hooks, not because of the rod.
Members freelancer 11 Posted November 28, 2011 Members Posted November 28, 2011 I'm not sue the cost but Wright and McGill are going to release a Rick Clunn glass rod like his old ones. RC and David Fritts are good friends and Fritts lamiglass rods are really good but kinda costly, so if the RC glass rods are anything like the lamiglass rods it is a good investment.
jeb Posted November 28, 2011 Posted November 28, 2011 I'm not sue the cost but Wright and McGill are going to release a Rick Clunn glass rod like his old ones. RC and David Fritts are good friends and Fritts lamiglass rods are really good but kinda costly, so if the RC glass rods are anything like the lamiglass rods it is a good investment. I ordered one of those Rick Clunn rods from TackleWarehouse.com last week. It will be my first dedicated CB rod. I've not had a lot of luck on CB's over the years, but I do know they work. So I'm trying to dedicate more of my time to fishing them. John B 08 Skeeter SL210, 225F Yamaha
rps Posted November 28, 2011 Posted November 28, 2011 I ordered one of those Rick Clunn rods from TackleWarehouse.com last week. It will be my first dedicated CB rod. I've not had a lot of luck on CB's over the years, but I do know they work. So I'm trying to dedicate more of my time to fishing them. Tried and true basics: original series warts, bandit 200s and 300s, Norman"s Deep Little N and DD22. You don't need to plow with them, but you do need to be in contact with the bottom. Have faith.
Members freelancer 11 Posted November 29, 2011 Members Posted November 29, 2011 Let us know how the RC crankin rod works for you.
jeb Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 Fished the rod today on Beaver Lake. I got the "Wright & McGill Clunn Reaction Rod 7'8" Med Deep Crank" rod. I was surprised at how wide it is in the reel seat and foregrip area. Reminds me of a pool cue! And it is really heavy. I should mention that all of my other rods are fairly high end. Dobyn's Extreme's, Loomis GLX and NRX. So maybe I'm a little jaundiced on the weight and shaft thickness issues. But I held my thoughts until I could fish it. I mounted a Revo Premier on the rod. Nice, light reel to try and make up for some of that weight. But to no avail. Thing just weighs a ton. Put a Bomber 6 series fat free shad on it, which I've been fishing a lot lately. I did like how it cast the lure and the action of the rod was nice. I fished it almost exclusively for the first hour or so, and caught a couple of small fish on it. Then I picked up my Dobyn's DX784 (same length rod) with a 3/4oz football jig and it was SO much lighter and easier to handle. Again, not knocking the action of the rod, but it will flat wear you out casting big lures. I knew it would be mushier feeling than my graphite rods. That's kind of the point of glass to have less feel, but more give to help set the hooks in fish on cranks rather than tearing it out of their mouths. And that was certainly true. I had NO issues on my graphite rods telling I was ticking trees, rocks, etc. With the Clunn rod, you could kind of tell you were hitting something, but it was far more vague. Not a huge deal with cranks, I guess, but worth noting. I will not be keeping this rod. I just can't fish something this heavy. I'm a fairly big guy in good shape, and I work out often. I ride dirt bike competitively. So I'm not a wimp. I'd always told myself on casting rods that price and weight were not important. But I was wrong. I want a rod that handles like this Clunn rod does, just with half the weight. I "get it" more now. John B 08 Skeeter SL210, 225F Yamaha
vacation Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 I really like temple fork rods, they are under $99 and carry a lifetime warranty and were designed by gary loomis formerly of g.loomis company
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