Members Sharkey Posted May 13, 2012 Members Posted May 13, 2012 Most of the kill circuits are grounds. I would check from the kill circuit to the ground with an ohm meter. If the kill switch it tripped it should complete the circuit showing close to 0 ohms
JohnP Posted May 13, 2012 Author Posted May 13, 2012 so with a 12v light tester there should be no power like there is now. If that's the case then nothing wrong with the switch and the problem is in under the cowling somewhere.
fishinwrench Posted May 13, 2012 Posted May 13, 2012 There should be no voltage on the kill circuit until the engine is running, and don't ever touch it when it is cuz it'll hit ya....hard! If it is is not activating the starter solenoid OR the choke solenoid it sounds like a open circuit....Fuse link ? (see if you have voltage on both sides of the fuse link while the fuse is in it. Then see if you have voltage on the relay side of the starter solenoid when cranking. And ditto with the choke solenoid.
JohnP Posted May 23, 2012 Author Posted May 23, 2012 Wrench, and everyone that put in suggestions to the fore-mentioned problem, thanks for the help/suggestions. The problem turned out to be the neutral switch assembly within the motor which I didn't realize was there till after I got to looking at the schematics. Traced the wire back from the starter relay which had no power to the neutral which did have power (when key was turned over) to it but not coming out. Checked the connections to make sure the plunger was being depressed and also manually depressed and still no power out from sitch to the relay. Bypassed the switch, turned the key and it fired right up. The cutting out problem I'm almost certain was a fuel line primer bulb problem as there was no fuel in the filter bowl and no going in when squeezing it. Order the switch yesterday and already replaced the bulb, once the switch gets here and I get it installed i'll be back on the water. Thanks again all John
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