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Fly line


Rusty

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Thanks snagged, that is what I was thinking, just needed a second opinion. I have been doing great. Really busy though, last two weeks, I have been working day and night. It sure makes an old man older. Just two more days like that. Then it is time to fish more.

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Careful you don't "mess up" then tip of your fly line. Masking tape over the end will help keep this from happening.

TIGHT LINES, YA'LL

 

"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman, trying to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, and getting licked in the process." - Paul O’Neil

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I don't know this for sure - but I don't think the hollow core of most fly lines runs the length of the line. I think it is broken up into sections so that if water gets in the whole line doesn't fill up with water. Again I don't know that for sure just that I think I remember reading that somewhere.

I also don't think the hollow core is what makes most lines float. It is the microballoons in the coating. Although the hollow core may help.

Greg

"My biggest worry is that my wife (when I'm dead) will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it" - Koos Brandt

Greg Mitchell

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I also don't think the hollow core is what makes most lines float. It is the microballoons in the coating. Although the hollow core may help.

Correct-a-mundo, Greg. Fly lines have glass "microspheres" embedded in the coating that reduce the specific gravity of the line to make it float. Rio has what they call "Agent X" which is some kind of process that supposedly does not use glass microspheres... well.. anyway.. they say it reduces the specific gravity of their line to 0.65 compared to "industry standard" of 0.88...

Anyway... the core is a woven mono that is, for most freshwater lines, hollow. Saltwater lines are not hollow (in most cases.) The hollow ones are that way to make the line more flexible in cold weather.

Water introduced into the core will increase the specific gravity of the line, therefore causing it to sink... even if just in "a section." So, closing this off is a good idea.

As a side note, Earl Stanek (retired from 3M) has a jar of those glass microspheres and uses them in his fly tying. I watched him mix some in some WalMart craft paint, then paint the legs of a hopper pattern he was tying (made them out of paint brush bristles) and that hopper floated on TOP of the water... on its legs!... WOW...

If you ever get a chance, take a look at Mr Stanek's flies... they are somethin'....

TIGHT LINES, YA'LL

 

"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman, trying to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, and getting licked in the process." - Paul O’Neil

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Zap -a-gap will ruin the coating on the out side of the fly line and it will also make it as hard as a rock. You will want to use somthing that is soft and pliable like pliobond it's like a rubber cement should be able to get at any flyshop.

Michael

To Know People Is To Know Thier Ways!

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Zap -a-gap will ruin the coating on the out side of the fly line and it will also make it as hard as a rock.

NOW you tell me! :lol:

I used Zap-a-Gap to keep my "loop to loop" connector on and you're right, Michael... good point.

Will Pliobond work on the loops?

TIGHT LINES, YA'LL

 

"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman, trying to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, and getting licked in the process." - Paul O’Neil

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