nathanhooper Posted July 20, 2013 Posted July 20, 2013 Well, you know the spot I was at. Island. I was thinking walleye too, kind of why I put on the flicker to see if I could snag one or a white. It was one of those gut feelings, should have followed it. I think I was running the ball too deep now also. Knocking them all in the head. Mitch, that's pretty much what I'm talking about. I really think its just a matter of knowing how to put all the data together. Just a step for a good programmer. I am kind of wishing I would have put 10lb test on my poles instead of 20. Then I could follow the dive charts for the flickers. I have tried searching for dive charts for 20 lb test but can't find any for the 7cm flickers. Don't know when I'll get out again, but I figure I'll hit the spot again with a slow presentation to see if those are walleye. I'll be sure to record again. One of these days I'll be able to post the sonar image and the accompanying fish along with it.
J-Doc Posted August 20, 2013 Author Posted August 20, 2013 Well this thread died a bit soon.... So here is a kick shot to re-start the discussion. I was out testing some motor issues and decided to play with my structure scan settings while idling around in Little Ventris on Beaver Lake. Here are some strange findings I found just by turning the surface clarity from "LOW" to "OFF". I found it really odd that it dramatically increased what I was picking up below the surface and not just "cleaning up the screen". No matter what unit you have, play with your surface clarity settings. You may be surprised at what you're missing out. The two screenshots on the bottom show a "LOW" and "OFF". With the clarity turned "OFF", I saw trees that the "LOW" setting did not pick up. I have problems using 800khz because I usually don't pickup bottom or anything at all. Here are some shots using these setings: - 800khz - Contrast 80% - Surface Clarity OFF - Color (White Background) - Depth (Auto) Here are two comparison shots using 455khz (what I typically use due to the wider sonar zone vs. the narrow 800khz The first image Surface Clarity "LOW". The second image shows Surface Clarity "OFF" In my mind, there is a dramatic difference in just those two settings. If I turned it to "MED", I wouldn't even get as much as I was getting on "LOW". Depth range also plays a big factor in this. The deeper the water, the less surface clarity you need. If I did this in 20ft of water, I'd probably have a very busy screen and just pick up a lot of debris and such thus the "LOW" setting is preferred depending on water clarity. Settings were: - 455khz - Contrast 68% - Surface Clarity OFF - Color (White Background) - Depth (Auto) Surface Clarity "LOW" Surface Clarity "OFF" Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
Members Weekend Worrior Posted August 23, 2013 Members Posted August 23, 2013 Well I have enjoyed this thread. I have a question a little off topic but any way I have enough money to buy one nice fish finder and was wondering if it would be better used monuted on the bow with the transducer mounted on the trolling motor or unit mounted at the console with the transducer at the transom. Thanks for the help in advance
J-Doc Posted August 23, 2013 Author Posted August 23, 2013 Depends on where you spend more time. Helm or bow? Before I got two graphs, I chose to put mine at the helm for safety reasons. I didn't want to damage my prop or hit something while on plane. I also bought a RAM mount so I could swing the sonar around and see it from the bow. Others have bought an extra transducer and mounted it to the bow and swap the unit back and forth. A lot of work in my mind. If you troll.....definately the helm. If you bass fish or fish from the bow, you could mount it at the bow. In all honesty, I've learned more this year by watching my fish finder at the helm than bow. I only use the bow unit now for depth, activity, and when I jig a spoon or drop shot. Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
Members Weekend Worrior Posted August 23, 2013 Members Posted August 23, 2013 Good info thanks I like the ram mount idea thanks again
J-Doc Posted August 23, 2013 Author Posted August 23, 2013 What type of graph are you looking for? Again.....depends on what and how you fish. You could be quite happy with a $150 Eagle. Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
GNSfishing Posted August 23, 2013 Posted August 23, 2013 Got a question on the settings for a HDS-10 Gen2 to being able to see my lures when vertical fishing a DS or spoon. I used to be able to see a large bait such as a spoon but when I upgraded to the latest software update somehow some setting changed to where I am not able to see my bait on the screen and now I don't remember what to change to get it back (old timers) disease . I have adjusted the sonar sensitivity up or down change the freq and all I get is more or less clutter on the screen, I see fish, structure & etc but can't see my bait.....especially smaller drop shot lures and/or the weight......What works for you????
J-Doc Posted August 23, 2013 Author Posted August 23, 2013 That would be a question for Feathers&Fins and others are are lucky enough to have fancy Gen-2 sonars. :-) Have you tried surface clarity? Also.....I have to ask the obvious. Are you sure the bait is beneath the transducer and in about 20ft of water? Tried 40ft yet? I've noticed that my graph won't pickup my bait some times and others its clear as a bell. Depends on if the bait is in the cone angle. Deeper the water, the bigger the cone angle. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
GNSfishing Posted August 23, 2013 Posted August 23, 2013 Yep and yep, I have changed the freq which will change the cone size versus water depth. What has me puzzled I've had it to work in the past and I could see the lure from entry in the water to the bottom and have seen fish take my lure. There could be a setting that is new with the software update that I have not discovered yet. Sometimes these settings can be obscure and sometimes hard to find on these things which will make them work great..
J-Doc Posted August 23, 2013 Author Posted August 23, 2013 In all honesty, call Lowrance technical support. That might help. Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
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