Trailer Bunks ?

[eyeman]

What is the best thing to use for trailer bunks for an aluminum boat ?

[gramps50]

I used 2x4's with marine carpet on them. Do NOT use pressure treated ones. I have heard of guys using the plastic 2x4's too. Over on Tinboats.net some of the guys used composite ones that they really liked. Can't remember the name of them a little more than wood and carpet but it's a one time expense.

[JohnF52]

I recommend pressure treated 2x4s with 1/2 inch HDPE plastic screwed onto them with countersunk deck screws. That is the single best improvement I have ever done to make my launching and retrieving easier. I got the HDPE pretty cheap cut to order at Mr Plastic on Kelley Ave in west Springdale where they make cutting boards. At $50 for two ten foot by 3.5 inch pieces, It cost less than half as much as the commercial "bunk slicks" like they sell at Cabelas, is much sturdier and longer, and works much, much better.

[Feathers and Fins]

I have factory bunks on mine but added Bow Rollers for positioning when loading and its the best money Ive spent. Loading by myself so often they line the bow right up and put it right to the hook, no way I would own a boat now and not have them. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Bow-Assist-Rollers/700761.uts?productVariantId=1204278&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=bingcashback&WT.z_mc_id1=00040076&rid=40&mr:referralID=eef77c88-f8fd-11e2-9dea-001b2166becc

[eyeman]

i have an aluminum lund and the trailer has 2' side bunks to guide me up straight and a rear roller to pick up the keel . trying to decide to use either wood or the new composite deck material. not sure how the lag bolts will hold in them.

[J-Doc]

Trailer bunks...........yeah here's a story, I'll keep it short.

I used pressure treated 2x6's (that's what was on my trailer - 1979 fiberglass tri-hull) and I coated the boards with a mineral oil/outdoor stain that was recoommended to waterproof the wood (as waterproof as can be expected anyway). Then I used marine bunk board carpet from Cabelas.

Here's the twist......

Former owner used carriage bolts and didn't use stainless grade to save money. What do you think happened when the boards needed replacing? Yep......bolts were so rusted you couldn't unthread the bolts with very little thread left and the bolts turned inside the wood. I had to use a claw hammer to remove portions of wood to get a pair of vicegrips on the bolt to unthread the nuts.

So I used stainless lag bolts..........

BIG MISTAKE!! When loading the boat a while back, the board was rotating due to the bunk mounts becoming loose due to boat impact when loading. The boar rotated 90-degrees and went vertical causing the board to shear loose from lag bolt, which resulted in a nice scar up the side of my fiberglass boat!! UGH!! Take it from me, you don't want a hole in your aluminum boat either. Use stainless grade carriage bolts countersunk. YES it's expensive but it's worth it in the end.

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR BUNK BOARDS EVERY TRIP. Check to see if they are loose, solid, carpet holding, etc. One slip up can be expensive.

[JohnF52]

I never power load. Always by hand. With the HDPE bunk slicks the boat slides on and off like it is heavily greased. If something starts to go wrong when loading I will feel it long before any bad damage could occur. Power loading digs a hole at the end of ramps in times of low water when not much of the ramp is under water, and is strongly discouraged at some ramps.

[MOPanfisher]

If you opt for the all plastic bunks or the plastic layered on top be careful when unloading. The plastic will make the possibility of an unintended slide off more likely. I know folks who used to stop at the top of the ramp unhook the bow eye and back it it. Do that with the plastic bunks and you may find your boat lying on the concrete ramp. Don't unhook it until it would at least fall into shallow water. Otherwise the plastic bunks work pretty well.