Ned Rig Rod From Scratch

[5bites]

Just to add and be clear I am in no way saying rps is wrong. At all. So please don't read it that way.

[rps]

I will start and others can chime in.

Mudhole's kit that fits your description would be this:

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/MHX-Spinning-Kits/MHXSK-12

79.95 for what looks like 7 aluminum oxide guides, a handle kit, a hook keeper, and a tip top.

On the other hand, if I were making a simple drop shot/split shot rod I would buy these parts and and use this guide spacing method method:

Based on the fuji chart here:

http://anglersresource.net/Portals/anglersresource/KR%20CONCEPT%20Guide%20Placement%20Charts.pdf

I would order 9 guides and a tip top for the rod and I would use the Pac Bay Minima 4 chrome guides at a cost of $10.26. These 9 guides and tip will weigh considerably less than 7 aluminum oxide guides and tip, even with the thread and epoxy factored in. Less weight in the guides equals a balance point closer to the reel and greater sensitivity.

I would buy the MHX blank:

SJ842-MHX 7' 1 6-12 1/8 - 1/2 Fast Med-Lt Rattle Traps, Drop Shot, Live Bait, Twitch Baits, Walleye 1.83 .519 4.5 $52.25

For the handle I would go with a Tennessee style tube, but another option would be a handle kit such as this:

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Handle-Tubing-Tube-Grips/12-Woven-Graphite-Spinning-Handle-Kit at $29.15.

If you want to make a Tennessee style handle you will have to decide if a precut 12 inch tube suits you or if you need a longer piece cut down from stock. You will also need to decide outside diameter, figuring in the girth of your lizard skins.

A drop shot hook holder (http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Hook-Keepers/AJ454-Single-Foot-Hook-Keepers) adds $.51.

Winding checks, thread, rod bond, and thread epoxy will add a few dollars to the total.

In all, a bit over $100, but vastly superior to the kit to which we compare above.

[5bites]

^That^

Also eBay has carbon fiber tubing. I plan on buying some filament wound tubing sometime for a different look.

Swampland is another great place to buy from. Shipping cost is what eats you up in rod building unless you order from one place. Mudhole knows this.

[dtrs5kprs]

Kits basically help you build a factory rod, which sort of defeats your purpose. Nothing wrong with that to learn some basics, just keep your expectations reasonable. You will end up with a "hand assembled" factory stick.

If going the kit route, I would pick something pretty universal like a 6'6"-7' kit. You can always use a nice extra all purpose stick. If you like the experience, you can move up.

On other notes...

I do use brushes, that is with flex coat high build. Have tried other finishes and keep going back to FC. I use a hair dryer to get the finish moving, same as I do when using it to clear coat hard baits.

Generally I use 2 coats of finish, 24 to 48 hours apart. Yes it adds weight, but I sort of figure there is a reason St Croix does it. With a lock wrap, I don't have guide issues, and my wraps are well covered. Not to say a single coat does not work, just my logic for my process.

RPS is spot on about cutting, but I would add glue to that advice. Usually I will set up a rod with the grips and seat reamed, as I think it should be, then walk away for 24 hours and reexamine before gluing it up.

[rps]

This thread has become interesting.

Two thoughts after I re-read.

One - I seem to have dropped a post. I typed and thought I posted a comment that amicably welcomed 5bites comments on brushes and finish sag. I did not write down something I do that explains how/why my advice differs from his. I use a pallet knife to apply a generous amount of finish and then use that same knife to wick most of the finish back off. The wicked off amount does not go back in the pot. I aim to leave behind soaked threads and very little more, all in a level amount.

Second, if you use the KR method and Pac Bay Minima 4 guides, the first 4 from the reel need to be their Match variation for the extra height.

[5bites]

This thread has become interesting.

Two thoughts after I re-read.

One - I seem to have dropped a post. I typed and thought I posted a comment that amicably welcomed 5bites comments on brushes and finish sag. I did not write down something I do that explains how/why my advice differs from his. I use a pallet knife to apply a generous amount of finish and then use that same knife to wick most of the finish back off. The wicked off amount does not go back in the pot. I aim to leave behind soaked threads and very little more, all in a level amount.

Second, if you use the KR method and Pac Bay Minima 4 guides, the first 4 from the reel need to be their Match variation for the extra height.

I've thought about using the knife myself but just haven't tried it yet. I also do the wicking thing especially on the guides closer to the tip! The less weight out there the better! Another reason I love micro guides.

Since a dropshot rod is what we are talking about I've got an idea I've wanted to try. Maybe you guys can tell me if it's dumb or not.

My dropshotting is always vertical. A rod for dropping a dropshot and a rod for casting one are two different critters. Anyway since it's a vertical presentation why not forgo the heavy spinning guides altogether and just use lighter casting guides? Or maybe start with much smaller spinning guides and transition into micros? Casting distance is not an issue for this and I doubt the smaller guides would slow the drop down any at all. So you'd end up with a lighter better balanced rod for when you are looking at them on the graph and dropping to them. Also I've mentioned before (a while back) my general dislike for recoil guides. I've built with them and my favorite jig rod has them but I prefer ceramic. Anyway this dropshot rod I described above seems like a perfect candidate for for the single wire recoils.

Any thoughts?

[REDSOXWSCHAMP]

I can see where rod building can be overwhelming, as I haven't even started to build one yet, and i feel that way.

[dtrs5kprs]

I've thought about using the knife myself but just haven't tried it yet. I also do the wicking thing especially on the guides closer to the tip! The less weight out there the better! Another reason I love micro guides.

Since a dropshot rod is what we are talking about I've got an idea I've wanted to try. Maybe you guys can tell me if it's dumb or not.

My dropshotting is always vertical. A rod for dropping a dropshot and a rod for casting one are two different critters. Anyway since it's a vertical presentation why not forgo the heavy spinning guides altogether and just use lighter casting guides? Or maybe start with much smaller spinning guides and transition into micros? Casting distance is not an issue for this and I doubt the smaller guides would slow the drop down any at all. So you'd end up with a lighter better balanced rod for when you are looking at them on the graph and dropping to them. Also I've mentioned before (a while back) my general dislike for recoil guides. I've built with them and my favorite jig rod has them but I prefer ceramic. Anyway this dropshot rod I described above seems like a perfect candidate for for the single wire recoils.

Any thoughts?

Would likely work, as long as you did not mind a dedicated vertical rod. My drop shot type rods see far more duty with the Ned rig, small wacky worms, etc., than they do drop shotting.

[dtrs5kprs]

I can see where rod building can be overwhelming, as I haven't even started to build one yet, and i feel that way.

Really it is not that bad. I felt that way initially with rod building, and more so with reloading. Both are as complicated as you'd like them to be.

There are some great tutorials online. You can learn most of what you need to know at Mudhole and/or Merrick. As it is "art" heavy, it becomes very individualized, as you can see just from the differences in process between only three builders.