M_Taylor Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 Let me start by saying I have went through previous posts and tried to answer some of the questions I had on my own. I wanted to get a little more in depth knowledge from you smart guys out there. Combing other websites is good but I want to know how locals are doing it. I have heard the success stories and I'm convinced I need to learn how to walleye fish with harnesses. Here's my questions and I hope people can add anything that helps that I didn't ask. Hooks: I've seen one hook and two hook set ups. Preferences? Octupus vs straight long shank or twisting type Weights: cheapest lead weight vs. fancy bottom bouncer weights? Line: I know floro is hard to beat, anyone have experience with braid leaders? Knot: I saw F&Fs loop type knot where the dropper is, any more details to the exact knot and if you tie your piece of line to the weight, straight to that loop? Rods: If I use my medium action bass rods instead of longer softer action rods, how badly do I hurt my odds. Amount of line out: is there a rule of thumb on how much to start out with? Finally, are you letting them have it on the hook set or just a little pull? Probably novice questions but that's because I am at this type of fishing. I want to get out one morning before work soon and will share any successes or failures.
Feathers and Fins Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 Hooks: I've seen one hook and two hook set ups. Preferences? Octupus vs straight long shank or twisting type Single Hook slow death preferably but true turns work also in size 2 to 2/0 Weights: cheapest lead weight vs. fancy bottom bouncer weights? Bottom Bouncer pencil style Line: I know floro is hard to beat, anyone have experience with braid leaders? Negative ghost rider Knot: I saw F&Fs loop type knot where the dropper is, any more details to the exact knot and if you tie your piece of line to the weight, straight to that loop? I slip the loop through the eye of the swivel and pull it tight.... Main line goes to the weight Rods: If I use my medium action bass rods instead of longer softer action rods, how badly do I hurt my odds. I know when I use stiff rods I miss a lot of subtle taps so I would say it would hurt you. Amount of line out: is there a rule of thumb on how much to start out with? Set your trolling motor to where you are doing .3 mph.... Drop the rig down and close bail.... as the boat moves let out just enough line so you maintain bottom contact. Im not letting a lot out most the time I can see the baits on my graph Finally, are you letting them have it on the hook set or just a little pull? Depends on the fish if they load the rod im setting hook. if I see tap tap tap I will do a couple things from flipping the bail to give them the bait or swing the rod back to give slack. That is only something each circumstance dictates and only experience will tell you which to do https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
rps Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 Do you remember when you first thought about fly fishing? And how soon you became addicted? First, you live close to two excellent walleye lakes, Beaver and Table Rock. One of the United States best, Bull Shoals, is only a little farther. Second, a number of really excellent fishermen post to this board. Pay close attention to Feathers and Fins, Powerdive, Rangerman, Mike Worley, Kjackson, and .... drat I am sure I omitted someone I should include. Third, crawler harnesses are one of the top three or four methods used locally for walleye, but they are not necessarily the premier method as they are somewhat seasonal. I got hooked on walleye fishing by long line trolling. Powerdive is a strong leadcore advocate. Fourth, there are many paths to success and what you see on this board and elsewhere are different examples of different paths. I write about what works for me. As do the others. Have you read the articles I wrote for Phil Lilley on nightcrawler fishing and trolling. If not here are links. These are starting points. http://www.ozarkanglers.com/table-rock/trolling-for-walleye/ http://www.ozarkanglers.com/white-river-walleye-on-worm-harness/ Be sure you look at this: Scott, I need your help here. Give him the link to your post that showed your harness creations. If you have already read all of those, please forgive me. Now, to address your questions: IMHO, braid leaders suck. They are so limp that become easily twisted with the blades and such. I use a high quality mono or co-polymer. My choice is Suffix Elite or Yozuri Hybrid. I also like Trilene XT clear. I use 10 or 12 pound. I tie my braid, Power Pro metered multicolored 10/2 directly to the bottom bouncer using a double Palomar. I attach the leader and harness to the bottom bouncer. Scott uses a different and equally workable dropper concept. I made my walleye rod and have another in progress. In the mean time I use a inexpensive Falcon HD 7" medium action as my second rod. The amount of line depends on the weight/depth/speed equation. You want your bait just above bottom so your bait will be 6 to 12 inches above bottom. I use the philosophy that you let out enough line until you feel the bottom all the time. Then you reel in until you only feel it some times. Last of all, hookset - recently discussed. Look at my last two posts for an excellent discussion Good Luck!
Feathers and Fins Posted July 22, 2014 Posted July 22, 2014 Saving anything good here Randy, so its at a fingers click https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
M_Taylor Posted July 23, 2014 Author Posted July 23, 2014 Wow, I knew I had missed some things and would learn a ton. I will be trying to absorb this all and then implement it soon. I really appreciate it. Seems to me that from the reports, to be looking between 20-30ft of water. Any suggestions as to mainlake vs inside coves?
Feathers and Fins Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 25 to 35 fow... look on channel ledges and long points. Long points present a major challenge as your target zone may only be an area of 100 ft and takes really working it methodically and not giving up to fast if fish are present. Channel ledges present a bigger area to work and more forgiveness as they can be laying anyplace along it giving you many chances. I told RPS in another thread I foresee a jigging spoon bite coming on soon and its based off where the fish are at now and what they are doing there. The spoon bite can be some of the biggest and best of the year and a lot of fun. If one thing sucks about walleye fishing its how fast they can get off one technique and on to another. Not saying a harness wont get them year round because it will. But on the flip side Walleye can also be one of the best freshwater technique and pattern fish. In that I mean they have seasonal migrations and patterns that can be patterned year after year and when they do that move specialized techniques are needed and they are very simple at that but requires mastering how they want it on a particular body of water. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
rps Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 Harness worms are year round. BUT, during some parts of the year, trolled cranks deliver better fish, and during other times, jigged spoons are especially effective.
Members showmebass Posted July 23, 2014 Members Posted July 23, 2014 I've never learned the art of jigging spoons, but it's definitely something I'd like to add to my arsenal in the near future. I've considered trying smaller spoons in schools of deep crappie to begin getting the feel for it, but when I'm "in the moment" it's awfully hard to abandon an almost guaranteed mess of fish for the sake of learning a new tactic. One of these days....
Guest Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 I use a high quality mono or co-polymer. My choice is Suffix Elite or Yozuri Hybrid. I also like Trilene XT clear. I use 10 or 12 pound. Suffix Elite or Yozuri Hybrid are the 2 best fishing lines anybody could use
Tanderson15 Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 80% of the time I fish the crawler harness. I use 8/30 power pro main line with 14 # fluorocarbon harness line. 11/2 to 2 oz bottom bouncers. Except for dirty high water I only use copper, gold and silver blades. I use two hooks for crawlers and gulp worms, a slow death hook for gulp minnows. I might go faster than some .8 to 1.2 mph. Sometimes faster when the water warms up. I have found a 3 1/2 foot leader fits me fine. Last few years here I always use floats. I agree with RPS on trolling crank baits. I used to fish tournaments and when I had my limit I would troll large plugs for the kicker fish. For walleye my favorite way is jigs, next BB, then long line trolling and last lead line. I know,I'm weird, but I only fish for walleye here, except I do fly fish for trout in the winter. Beaver, tablerock and bull shoals have been kind to me. One thing I use is flipping reels. Since I fish holding two rods all the time. Left hand crank for the right hand and a right crank for left hand. That way I can use my knees to get line in if it gets shallow. Have fun as the fishing is great here for walleye.
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