J-Doc

I knew that would draw you out. Lol I was only kidding.

I think we should attend just to make F&F angry. Lol!!

I wasn't able to make it to the meeting but would like to have out of curiosity at least. When is the next meeting?

Thanks. Yes, I replaced the carpet on the front deck. I understand your frustration on carpet replacement. It can be a job and some folks do not have very good luck with it. You get what you pay for on carpet and you need a carpet with a rubber backing to prevent the adhesive from soaking through the carpet while the adhesive cures/dries. Replacing the carpet isn't that bad. At least, it wasn't for me anyway. Build the extension with the old carpet in and then have someone replace the carpet and add carpet to your deck extension as well. JUST MAKE SURE you do not "overbuild" the extension. I was very cautious on this as no one needs or wants extra weight that's not needed. It will screw with your boats performance and ride. Go as light as you can. Heck, send me a PM with photos of your deck and I can help you design it.

You said "I search the bass out in deeper channels and timber where the bikini boats won’t go." I've seen skiers in Van Winkle, Rambo, and other heavily tree infested areas where they will drive right over the tops of trees. Nothing scares the skiers. They just don't think about hitting anything.

The transoms on these boats had a bad reputation and were known for having some warranty issues. So far, mine is solid and no signs of any kind for weakness or other such problems. The day that happens is the day she is parked somewhere permanently until I win the lottery. LOL Currently (thanks to fishinwrench's motor rebuild), she's running 39-40mph (GPS) with just me and a light load. Gets on plane in about 4.5 seconds (torque-filled little rascal) and gets about 3mpg at 5,100 WOT. If I back it off to about 4,200 and quiet down the motor, I can get 3.5-4mpg and run around 35mph. Motor is much quieter at that spend and RPM.

And you have discovered my pain. LOL It is my current boat and I do not yet have a shop and work out of the garage when I can. Actually, the goober that replaced the deck did a bad job and only glassed the top side of the deck using 3/8 plywood and filled the entire boat with spray foam to support the weak floor and for floatation. The problem is, he did not fully remove the old deck and just lapped over the new on top of some of the old and it did not seal off that well. Some of the decking is "spongy" and should be replaced. The foam is the only reason my foot is not going through the floor. It's really good foam and a pain to rip out. (as I know from experience due to other repairs). I'm not worried about the floor right now as it's still quite usable and I would have to split the boat in half (separating the hulls between top half and lower half) and it's just not worth it currently. Yes, it will probably get worse but I'd say it will be fine for another few years before the entire deck needs replacement. By then, I'll have more money, a shop, and time to work on it while my new boat will be my primary vessel and this will be the "sunday driver".

You just blew up my ADHD......... I'll have to read it in chunks. LOL!

My point was...... An older boat is a lot of fun IF you get one that it's in good enough condition you can work with it over a long time period. If you have the money to invest and willing to do it (knowing you'll never get that amount back), enjoy restoring things, willing to work at it, and plan on keeping the result, it can be worth it. I'd say 8 times out of 10 it's not worth it financially.

I know the feeling. At the time, I had been waiting to buy a boat for several years. My cousin and his family owned this one since it was only 1-2yrs old and had used it 2-3 times a year for 30yrs for skiing and occasional fishing. It sat under a garage covered until recent years. The deck was replaced within the last 5yrs, etc. Not yet knowing anything about boats (no where what I know now anyway), I bought it at a great deal. All it needed was a new trolling motor so I got a used one and I was in business (so I thought). A 25-30yr old outboard will need rebuilding if it has not been rebuilt already. The service/life span will last about that depending on hours (per fishinwrench and many others I've spoken with) Here is a before shot when I first got it. Here is a more current photo from this summer (before the deck extension) I quickly began wet-sanding to remove white oxidized haze and removed the old steps (my foot went through them one day) and replaced them with welded wire mesh (won't rot again). The short list of things I've done include - replaced the bilge pump with 1,000gpm Mayfair - replaced aerator - bought a better prop for optimum performance and ride (about $350...Turbo props are great) - replaced batteries and added a 3rd for 24v trolling motor - new trailer winch - boat buddies (replaced the transom straps with retractable straps) - eventually painted the wheels - sanded and painted the motor cowling - upgraded to LED lighting for entire trailer - new trailer tires - new bearings (thanks again to fishinwrench for showing me how and for helping in the process as well) - I added a livewell aerator with timer - motor rebuilt (Eventually, 30yrs of use led to a blown piston and then fishinwrench shot me a message and a great friendship was formed. He rebuilt the motor last year and she's running better than ever - new starter for motor (needed that) - new stator for motor (probably needed, went ahead and replaced it) - replaced trailer bunks last spring - added rod holders for trolling and crappie fishing - new carpet (recent addition) - deck extension project (taking a breath) So.......... Yes, they are money hungry. This was the first boat I had ever experienced as a kid and I was able to enjoy it several times. When I heard it was for sale, I bought it because I knew the owners well (family) and felt it would be really reliable. It was........it was just time to rebuild and they did not know it and neither did I. B.O.A.T = Break Out Another Thousand

You name the time and place and I'm in the back of your boat. Heck I might even throw a fly rod if someone handed me one. LOL I'm all about filling an ice chest for some whites.

That's what I was wondering. He has a pretty hefty alum mud boat with a mud jet motor on it. Axle could be a bit undersized (just enough to cause flex). You won't see the flex unless your following your trailer in another vehicle. If you see it flexing when hitting bumps, there's an issue. If not, it could be factory tires but I would think it's something else. Checked to see if bearings are tight? That's an easy thing to check and a probable cause.

Sorry to hear that. Is it a solid axle trailer? Axle out of alignment maybe? What do you think are the causes? I used yellow pages (which you probably have already) and found a lot more listings than I would have thought there were. http://www.yellowpages.com/fayetteville-ar/trailers-repair-service When you get new tires, shop hard. You can find some good deals on a good tire. I ended up getting a pair at Walmart (HD trailer rated tire) for about $80-90 for a 14" wheel (I think it's 14, might be 15). I was amazed at the price of trailer tires. They used to throw cheap whitewall tires on older boat trailers like mine but they are not load rated and it's dangerous. So make sure you get a load rating that meets your need.

Ah. Thanks for the info Bird Watcher. Glad you clarified that. I really didn't know and was basing what I had been told 2nd party.

Here is the new rod storage. I'll add the plastic downspout tubes and some method for securing the tubes between the floor and the factory storage compartment that's now covered by carpet instead of the old board that hid this un-tapped resource.

Thanks. I have to give credit to Legend Boats for the bait holders. Their Alpha series has them factory (better too). Actually, I won't miss those seats at all. I didn't use them and the family rarely ventures out on the boat (claiming they will). They were rotting, vinyl was cracking, not enough storage, etc. Oh and during this process I found an un-discovered place to store my rods when it's just me on the water (95% of the time). When replacing the carpet, I removed a board under the console to install the carpet and noticed a large gap that goes all the way up to the front of the boat. Added some bungee chord, stainless tie downs and now I have rod storage. I can keep a few up front vs having 5-8 rods on an already small front deck. I have a picture. I'll see if I can upload it from my phone. I want to use some plastic gutter material (lighter than PVC) as rod tubes. That will come soon when it warms up in the spring.

Okie shad aren't good enough for Razorbacks? My guess is species and disease control....or....depletion of resources by fishing out a resource from one lake and giving to another. When done regularly and in a hi volume, that will hurt the host lake and could hurt the benefit lake if disease or species issues arose.

Tohatsu must be a little secret that most rednecks want kept quiet.... My brother-in-law (avid duck hunter) swears by these motors. So much be bought a rebuilt outboard. He doesn't know the details but swears lots of "good ole boys" in the South Arkansas Delta (rich in ducks) are buying these outboards (not jets) and overhauling the motors with performance parts and such. He said just about everyone in the delta is running the Tohatsu because they are leaving everyone else behind them. A 1650 flat bottom loaded with 3-4 hunters, 1-2 dogs, gear, decoys, etc on a 25hp outboard running mid-30's easy. Sound too good to be true? I thought so too but my nephew, brother-in-law and a couple of other guys were there and they all swear they are "super bad" when they are hopped up. Look into it. Might be something into it and I hear they are very reliable. I know that when I see a flat bottom with a Tahotsu, I respect it and know it's probably been "hot-rodded". LOL

Good tip!

I'm happy to offer design help or advise too. (I am a licensed architect, I think I can come up with a few ideas - haha)

Thanks. I hope my thread inspires others to see a need and make a solution.

Two words... "Budget cuts!" (Aka) "the wife" Okay that's 4 words. Lol

Construction Progress Photos After cutting out initial deck and holes for the new lids Reinforced hinge points with solid 2x4 material vs. plywood ends (much stronger connection) Bottom view of project View of project with sub-framing beneath. NOTE the ripped 2x4's are filler and not as much structural as much as they were needed to raise the deck up to be flush with the existing deck up front Initial coat of epoxy resin to waterproof top layer Photo showing ledge created to support deck lids - all fully epoxied and sealed with Liquid Nails prior to sealing with epoxy - I allowed 3/8" overlap to support the lids and secured the ripped 1x4 to the bottom with exterior deck screws about 3" on center as well as Liquid Nails to help secure it to the bottom of the plywood (overbuilt? - never coming off!) These are the bait hangers after welding fender washers on the ends. I added a coat of brown epoxy paint. Initial carpet installation

Before Photos Finished Project ***UPDATED 02/03/14*** A) Added photos of the initial voyage after the deck extension I also dded photos showing alum. sheet metal backing for reinforcement to help prevent plywood warp during heated summer days and humidity. I have to give credit to fishinwrench for the suggestion/idea. The sheet metal is fully secured to plywood creating a reinforcement diaphragm that should keep the plywood from curling. The sheet metal used is a bit smaller than the lids themselves which is a disadvantage. That's the only stock sizes I could get my hands on at the time. I'm hoping they work well enough. The idea is there nonetheless.

Anyone ever wanted to do one of these? Never thought about it? Already did but want to redo it? I just completed mine and decided to post a write-up and a few photos to documented the process, describe materials, how it’s built, etc. In case someone wanted to do this for their boat, shoot me a message and I can provide some help/feedback/ideas. I will also share some things I've learned along the way that I would do different if anyone is interested. Here is a quick video link of the final product for you attention deficit types (myself included) http://youtu.be/BDWlzx7CDfo So here we go.... 1979 Cane Cutter 15.2 Modified Tri Hull Original seats wrapped on plywood backs were rotting Seats are a bit of a pain for fishing because you had to move the seats around when you needed access below for the factory storage Storage was little to none. I was always tripping over my tackle bag in the middle of the floor or other gear and wanted more "floor space". It was probably a wash in cost to replace the seats or build the deck extension. (I didn’t keep track but I’d say I spent an easy $400+ mainly due to hardware and not material – screws, hinges, latches, gas strut, etc. It all adds up super-fast even when you find great deals like I did) Total weight added to boat: 40lbs (new deck weight, not gear added) Waterproof? Yes! Sealed top and sides with fiberglass resin Sealed bottom side with Thompson’s Waterseal so water will quickly “drip off” and not soak into wood Sealed all penetrations as best as possible with either Liquid Nail (waterproof kind) or 100% silicone Are lids waterproof? Lids yes, contents below? No. I did not have time or desire to create drain channels so the storage compartments can get a little wet – I was used to that already so no big change Design Goals Be as light as possible but have solid floor without flexing or bounce Reduce weight by using as little framing as possible (no big 2x4 frames) I used 1x4’s (lighter, just as strong) to support plywood at middle lid Lids must not fall through – must be able to stand on lids without failure I ripped 1x4’s to make a ledge for the lids to rest on Locking middle lid for secure storage A locking Attwood latch for only $12-13 http://www.wolfsmarine.com/Attwood-99603B7-Latch-Kit-P4507.aspx Make a bait hanger for soft plastics I used a display rod from Southern Imperial, cut it in half, welded fender washers on the ends as mounting plates, instant bait hanger! http://www.southernimperial.com/merchandising-accessories-wand-retailers-c-214_215.html Secure deck extension to existing boat I used only (4) ¼” stainless bolts – did not see the need to add more if bolted at extreme corners to resist curling Material Used ¾” BC Pine plywood (flatter and not warped like CDX grade exterior plywood) – no it’s not marine grade either, keep reading J Cedar 2x4’s (lighter than pine) #2 grade 1x4 pine About (2) tubes of HD Liquid Nail (exterior grade, waterproof) About ¾ tube of 100% silicone Just over (1) cane of fiberglass resin (the cheap stuff….Bondex from Lowes) I say it’s cheap because it’s $12-13 a can vs. top of the line West Marine system at about $150-200 Cheap stuff dries over several days – West Marine…..buddy you better get that stuff on in under 7mins before it hardens! West Marine has 36,000lb modulus of elasticity – same as steel! (mod of elasticity means it takes 36,000 pounds to pull it apart basically) Lots of assorted stainless steel screws, lock nuts, & washers in various lengths (#6 for latches, #8’s for hinges, ¼”x3” bolts to secure new deck to original boat) Exterior grade deck screws for wood construction (small box) Pressure treated 2x4 (had some scrap material in my shed from previous projects) Thompson’s Waterseal for multiple materials (conc, masonry, wood, etc) Lessons Learned: Don’t be a tightwad and save a few bucks on carpet or glue (see below) Since I was making a deck extension, I replaced all carpet with a cheap outdoor carpet (microbial resistant meaning it’s marine grade) from Home Depot Carpet did not have rubber backing and very thin. Saved some money but not that much – get decent material. DO NOT use outdoor carpet UNLESS it has a rubber backing WHY? Glad you asked……..adhesive will soak through carpet leaving footprints in the carpet and then re-harden gumming up the carpet with dried glue DO NOT use WATER BASED outdoor carpet adhesive No matter what it says and no matter what online reviews say………it’s NOT waterproof and will get “mushy” when wet If you do use carpet adhesive that is not “marine based”, read up and research it online vs. buying it in the store and seeing a $6 price tag and saying “HECK YEAH!” like I did. Impulse buy, totally regret it. 3M77 and Loctite Spray adhesives are good cheap alternatives for carpet replacement but, they are nowhere near as good as marine carpet adhesive For a small project like this, it’s probably a good cheap alternative Tips for a project such as this: (I have to credit Fishinwrench here. He gave me a good tip (I have not done yet but will be soon) Install alum. sheet metal on the bottom of the lids to keep them from warping Secure around the perimeter with screws at about 1-1/2-2” on center and a few in the middle of the panel as well Apply a thin bead of 100% silicone around the edge between the alum. and the lid to keep water out. If you install it correctly, it should help control warping and keep the plywood in check. The aluminum acts as a structural diaphragm when secured with screws and will limit the amount of stretch and prevent the ends from curling If you don’t use screws, it’s pointless –the screws and sheet metal work in unison to lock down the plywood Pics to follow in additional post to this thread.