timinmo

At this time the SV spool is limited to the Steez, Zillion, and Tatula SV. There was a limited run of Ryogas with the SV spool that were never imported into the US. There may be some that I am not aware of but it was pretty ground breaking when they started putting it in the Tatula because up to then you had to spend at least $300 to get that spool. I have backlashed mine but you really have to screw up, which I have no problem doing.

It casts heavy lures just fine. Guys I have about as many Shimanos as Daiwas. Both make great reels, I also have some Lews that I am satisfied with. The point is that the SV spool is trick stuff, for me. I don't know if you will find any great deals on the Tatula SVs, they seem to be hard to get.

The history is, first the 100, then came the CT, which is somewhat smaller,narrower. The Tatula SV is based on the CT. You can buy the CT for around $129.99 MSRP as I said before, the Tatula SV lists for $199.99. Probably you can get both for less on an auction site. The 100 has been replaced by the 150, supposedly has more line capacity. I have a 100 that I like real well but also have a SV and that spool is a whole new ballgame. All the Tatulas have the T-wing system. There should be some deals on the 100s. As far as the SV spool I will not attempt to explain the engineering as I'm not sure I understand it. In short it seems to keep the spool from running on after your lure hits. It does hold somewhat less line, it is lighter, I think. There are some great deals on the regular Daiwa CT as well as the Fuego. The Fuego is built on the Tatula CT frame without the T-wing. Both of those reels are available with premiums. The Fuego has a package deal with two Evergreen baits and a spool of Daiwa braided line all for the $100 MSRP of the Fuego. The CT has a similar deal. I have attempted to post a link for a video of Al Lindner. He talks about the Zillion but it is the SV spool that does it.

The 100 series does not have the SV spool. Good reels, I have one that I have been very happy with. The ones with the SV are the CT and not all of those. The ones with the SV are labeled as SV and right now are kind of hard to get. They are sold out at most places. As a comparison the regular Tatula CT lists for $129.99 and the SV is $199.99 so seventy bucks for the SV spool if you can find one. The 100 series has been replaced by the 150 series, I think.

The SV spool was developed by Daiwa and has really been a "brake" through. Until recently it was only available in the high end reels, think Steez and Zillion. Now you can get it in the Tatula with an MSRP of $200. It is way cool. I'm not sure I understand the engineering but it works. I am not that good with a baitcaster but I can skip with those reels.

Way to go Jim. Beautiful fish!!

beautiful fish man, congradulations

So, Fishfighter, did you order the canoe? From a dealer close to you? When will you get it? I think I am looking for a new solo.

Any canoe that is as short as 14 or 15 feet is hard for two people to fish out of, you are just too close to each other. No tandem paddles like a true solo. I have heard all the arguments of turning it around and paddling from the front seat but believe me it is not the same. When it comes to rocker a short canoe is better on "our" streams with little to no rocker. On true "whitewater" streams rocker is necessary for maneuverability. On most if not all Ozark streams a person would be better off with little to no rocker. A 14 foot canoe does not track as well as a 16 or 17 foot one would, all else being the same. If you were to paddle some of the 12 canoes on the market you will find going in a somewhat straight line is hard. As far as the high sides that is a double edged sword, yes that may help on rough water but yes they also catch the wind more and will let it blow you around more. I think your thinking on your original choice seems spot on.

Well apparently my dark cloud has passed. We did better today.

Drew I must be bad luck too. At least in Missouri.

So if I am reading this correctly, color probably does not matter on deep diving crankbaits or plastic on the bottom is 10 to 15 feet of water?

So just because I'm bored but also for the sake of discussion, I have two questions. Do you believe red hooks make any difference? Do you believe that fish, specifically bass, will bite more often if they can not see the line? Or see it less clearly, braid verses fluorocarbon?

Great day guys. Warm up.

176champion try this on you guides. http://www.mudhole.com/Guide-Tubing Just cut little rubber bands. Roll them onto the blank, as many as you plan to put guides on. For me it is way easier than using tape, especially with micro guides. After you get enough wraps on to hold the guide just cut the band. I have three different sizes for whatever diameter the blank is where the guide is going. Its cheap.

Careful use of heat, and scraping with something softer than the blank. I started using a candle but after ruining a blank with "too" much heat I went out and bought a heat gun. Care is still required and I think the best recommendation is, not getting it hotter than you can comfortably touch. I then scrap the surface with something like a Popsicle stick or plastic knife, or in most cases my thumbnail, unless I have done a bunch lately and have no nail left. I wipe it often with alcohol, this tends to soften the epoxy somewhat but doesn't seem to soften it enough to remove without the heat. A word of caution is that any colored rod is painted and the heat can soften the paint enough to where it comes off. When repairing rods with broken guides it usually takes more time to remove the old guide and epoxy than to install a new guide. There was a good written instructional on "rodbuilding" a while back, but I have been unable to find it with a quick look. In any case it is not a one shot deal. Gently heat, scrape. wipe, repeat, repeat, repeat as needed. If you are lucky the new guide wrap will cover the old wrap. As a disclaimer there maybe a better way, and I am open to learning

Guys I think it is a great hobby. The fact that you can build a rod the way you want one is the best part. For me and maybe this does not apply to anyone else, but I am sure I have spent much more money than I would have if I had to buy rods. You like a short grip go for it, fish out of a canoe and a 7 foot rod does not fit, no problem. In any case I think I have built somewhere north of 50 and have two in process right now with 2 more blanks waiting. In any case my suggestion is do not be hyper critical of you work. In a year or so you will probably look back at some of your early attempts and wish it were better, but you will get there by practice. Sometimes the best way to learn is to make mistakes and if you are afraid of doing that you will not try new things. Like a spiral wrap. The rods I build are certainly not prefect but I strive to make each one better than the last. If you don't like the results you can always strip it down and start over. I have blanks on their third iteration. In any case good building everyone.

Yeah Champ they are not necessarily real forth coming. Often they advise to search the archives. You might try messaging directly to Tom Kirkman who owns the site. Another resource is Otterods who is a custom builder in Mn. Both those people are believes of spiral wraps. I am kind of not convinced, but I also don't see a negative. As someone who repairs alot of rods I love rod boxes in boats. Oh the guy at Otterods name is Matt but I can't think of his last name right now.

If you would like advise from people who build lots of rods go to "rodbuilding.org"

Well did you use your new reel?

Welcome to the forum.

I have left cars at all the places you mentioned and not had a problem. That certainly does not mean I won't have a problem the next time or that you will not have a problem. Camping spots on the Jacks Fork is the least of your worries. It is blessed with more good gravel bars than almost any other river. The ones you mentioned are certainly great but there are others also. Buck Hollow to Bay Creek is my favorite stretch. Enjoy yourselves.

Having seen some of the jigs up close I can tell you they look great. Congrads Jim

Like your diagram Al. I think the key is laying your loop in early. There is no negative, or very few, to laying it in early. If you wait until you only have 5 or six wraps left you can not cut it right so it does not show. On the other end I do two coats of epoxy on all my guides so if a nub sticks out so what. I shave it off and the second coat covers it. The only other thing I can think of is do not lay your loop in right next to the foot of the guide. It will not hold your line tight. For the best looking wraps it is like painting, two thin coats turns out better than trying to put on one heavy coat, or at least it does for me. I guess that wasn't all. Before I put the epoxy on my wraps I take a toothpick, dip it lightly in the epoxy and hold it at the tunnel that forms on each side of the guide foot. The epoxy will wick into the tunnel. If this tunnel is not sealed water can get in and possibly rust the guide, non stainless of course. Water in this area can also cause you wraps to turn milky looking when wet. Your results may vary.

good stuff as always!