Trolling Motor Concerns

[stock jockey]

Went fishing today with my 2 boys and and my sons friend. I was fishing in illinois, however I was hoping to get some help from some of you here.

I was in a lake that was 25 horse power or less. I could not get the kicker to get in gear so I had to troll the whole time.

To the Point:

The wind was high so I had to use the trolling motor on high about half the time. The other half of the time I had the trolling motor on half speed.

I have a motor guide 71# thrust 24 volt trolling motor. I replaced the entire set up over winter. Two new batteries, new charger and new trolling motor.

After about 2 hours the motor was very slow. It never stopped going though. I figured one of the batteries was bad. After a 2 hour drive home I checked the batteries with a meter and both were still solid. Was getting 23.7 volts? What would have caused this. At one point I was high for about 10 minutes to get across a section of the lake.

Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks,

David

[dtrs5kprs]

Went fishing today with my 2 boys and and my sons friend. I was fishing in illinois, however I was hoping to get some help from some of you here.

I was in a lake that was 25 horse power or less. I could not get the kicker to get in gear so I had to troll the whole time.

To the Point:

The wind was high so I had to use the trolling motor on high about half the time. The other half of the time I had the trolling motor on half speed.

I have a motor guide 71# thrust 24 volt trolling motor. I replaced the entire set up over winter. Two new batteries, new charger and new trolling motor.

After about 2 hours the motor was very slow. It never stopped going though. I figured one of the batteries was bad. After a 2 hour drive home I checked the batteries with a meter and both were still solid. Was getting 23.7 volts? What would have caused this. At one point I was high for about 10 minutes to get across a section of the lake.

Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks,

David

How is it rigged, meaning: wire size, fuse / breaker set-up, plug or hard wire, etc...? Where did you measure the batteries, at the battery or at the bow? If it is a standard foot pedal is the wheel adjustment actually changing the speed setting? Is it a straight 24V or is it a 12/24V that requires switching?

Ran basically the same motor on a 462 Ranger for 9 years, except for toasting one at Pomme in a moment of stupid with a big hardwood, it was basically bulletproof. On a few occasions it was not, however, "me" proof. Usually was something to do with a wire, plug, or the foot switch. Had a lot of foot switches changed out on that one. 10 minutes on high should not have been a big deal unless you are running that motor on a boat over 18-19', or unless maybe it was on high bypass the whole time.

The fact that both batteries tested well makes me think the motor was somehow not pulling enough power, at least after it slowed down on you. Would have expected it to be down.

[getfished]

I replaced the entire set up over winter. Two new batteries, new charger and new trolling motor.

I would go back over the installation. I'll bet you can locate something out of place.

[fishinwrench]

Bad ground connection. Probably at the bow plug

[glennL]

i had the same type of problem and it was a poor connection.. Battery had some corrosion on it wasn't making a full contact. check the ground too..

[Martin]

I had a similar problem. I checked the batteries when I got home with a meter. It said both were OK. After checking everything else, I took the batteries back to where I got them. They checked the batteries "under load".

Both brand new batteries had one bad cell each. Fortunately, they loaded me up with two brand new batteries and they checked them "under load" before I left. They were good and I've had no problems since. I'm not sure how the average guy can check your batteries under load, but it sure revealed the problem.

[fishinwrench]

I had a similar problem. I checked the batteries when I got home with a meter. It said both were OK. After checking everything else, I took the batteries back to where I got them. They checked the batteries "under load".

Both brand new batteries had one bad cell each. Fortunately, they loaded me up with two brand new batteries and they checked them "under load" before I left. They were good and I've had no problems since. I'm not sure how the average guy can check your batteries under load, but it sure revealed the problem.

When you buy a "new" Marine battery in February or March you have to check the manufactured date to be sure your not getting one that has set on the shelf all Winter.

The "lead-acid battery tax" that the state imposed awhile back has caused some battery vendors to be very frugal (and sneaky) when it comes time to rotate out dated inventory.

If you don't own a load tester, You can load test your cranking battery using a digital voltmeter (or even the voltmeter on your dash, if your boat has one). Just pull your kill switch so the engine will not start, and crank the engine for 10 seconds while watching the voltage drop. If battery voltage falls below 10v during the 10 seconds of cranking, it failed the test.

For trolling motor batterys you have to run in 12v mode with a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals, and test them one at a time. Operate the TM on high 12v (in the water) with the boat tied to a dock so it can't move, while watching the battery voltage drop.

Same deal, you are checking for a voltage drop to 10 volts or less in 10 seconds.

When your battery charger tells you that the battery is at full capacity, that does not indicate that the battery is fine. That simply indicates that the battery has reached its individual charge capacity.

A totally wasted battery will show "fully charged" (on a charger), simply because it is resisting the amperage being poured into it. Kind of like the way a dry crusty sponge resists soaking up a splash of water.

[dtrs5kprs]

That is a great explanation.

[stock jockey]

Here is an update:

Went to boat shop today and they ran a few tests. The did a test on the batteries with a load and they tested good. The checked the amperage on the system and it worked fine. The technician said that the MotorGuide must be failing. I am working with Cabelas right now to get the motor replace.

Please give me input to let me know if you think it could be anything else.

Oh, and I bought 20 foot of 8 gauge wire to wire directly to the batteries if the problem continues.

Thanks,

David

[dtrs5kprs]

Here is an update:

Went to boat shop today and they ran a few tests. The did a test on the batteries with a load and they tested good. The checked the amperage on the system and it worked fine. The technician said that the MotorGuide must be failing. I am working with Cabelas right now to get the motor replace.

Please give me input to let me know if you think it could be anything else.

Oh, and I bought 20 foot of 8 gauge wire to wire directly to the batteries if the problem continues.

Thanks,

David

Wiring directly is ok, but don't forget some sort of breaker.