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Posted

I have 2 of four carbs on my 2004 Merc starving the engine, I have sprayed a can of carb cleaner through them and they are still starving. Fuel is getting to them but not through to the engine. I know this because when I spray in the carb cleaner the bottom two carbs love it and rpms go up when I spray in the top two carbs it floods out and I have to increase rpms to keep the engine from dying just like the instrustions say.

Now for the question;

After looking on iboats the only carb rebuilding kit I can find only has gaskets and seals, there is no float or needles listed for a 2004 4cyl 115hp Merc only the older 6cyl 115s. Does that mean the flots and needles are not replaceable? I notice after shutting the engine off, fuel spills out of the carbs and that says float replacement to me.

If anyone has rebuilt a carb on this model motor please help since I really need to get going on this project.I wish going to mechanic was possible but current employment situation will not allow that.

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Posted

I have 2 of four carbs on my 2004 Merc starving the engine, I have sprayed a can of carb cleaner through them and they are still starving. Fuel is getting to them but not through to the engine. I know this because when I spray in the carb cleaner the bottom two carbs love it and rpms go up when I spray in the top two carbs it floods out and I have to increase rpms to keep the engine from dying just like the instrustions say.

Now for the question;

After looking on iboats the only carb rebuilding kit I can find only has gaskets and seals, there is no float or needles listed for a 2004 4cyl 115hp Merc only the older 6cyl 115s. Does that mean the flots and needles are not replaceable? I notice after shutting the engine off, fuel spills out of the carbs and that says float replacement to me.

If anyone has rebuilt a carb on this model motor please help since I really need to get going on this project.I wish going to mechanic was possible but current employment situation will not allow that.

Sadly, welcome to my world.

I suggest you post the same quesion on iboats forum. There are a bunch of very experienced guys on that forum. You can also try looking online under Mercury's website. I know Evinrude has detailed parts/assembly breakdown drawings showing parts for the motor. That can help you determine what part numbers you need to search for.

As for "not taking to mechanic", I totally get that. I'm forced to rebuild my motor because my carbs were not working properly and I didn't know it until it was too late and I have low compression in one cylinder now. Fix it now before it's too late and check your compression. Might even break the head gaskets open and visually inspect. Head gaskets are reasonably affordable and you'll have peace of mind.

Again, the guys on iboats can walk you through detailed issues. I've had lots of luck there.

Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. 

He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!

Posted

I can't speak for your motor, but I can offer this, after a certain year and depending on motor, they quit making floats out of foam and went to hard plastic. The hard plastic ones do not deteriorate and therefore do not need to be replaced. I ran into the same issue one time on a 98 Mercury. For what it's worth, I would bet ethanol residue has your needle vavles gummed up, but that's just a guess.

PM fishinwrench on this forum. I think he's a marine mechanic from his posts.

Posted

PM fishinwrench on this forum. I think he's a marine mechanic from his posts.

He's a really good marine mechanic at LOZ. But he won't be able to receive a PM for awhile, he's off the grid right now.

 

 

Posted

Before you get in too deep.... Have you tried a can of "Seafoam" or the new "Sta-bil" green (for the Aliki gas)???

I have a 98 MERC 175 and it didn't seen to have the "giddy-up-go" it used to and I ran a tank of gas with the amount recomended for storage, of Sta-bil green and at about a half-a-tank... The old Merc took off and sounded like it did when it was new..........

I have added it every tank since......

(no I don't own stock in Sta-bil !!! )

"Look up OPTIMIST in the dictionary - there is a picture of a fishing boat being launched"

Posted

Before you get in too deep.... Have you tried a can of "Seafoam" or the new "Sta-bil" green (for the Aliki gas)???

I have a 98 MERC 175 and it didn't seen to have the "giddy-up-go" it used to and I ran a tank of gas with the amount recommended for storage, of Sta-bil green and at about a half-a-tank... The old Merc took off and sounded like it did when it was new..........

I have added it every tank since......

(no I don't own stock in Sta-bil !!! )

I can't get off the trailer to run anything through it, runs fine off the ears in the yard but as soon as put it in the water and put a load on it,it stalls out. Bottom two carbs are differently not pushing gas and that means not pushing oil so I am not running it until I am sure something is getting threw. I will run Seafoam in the future.

Posted

I can't get off the trailer to run anything through it, runs fine off the ears in the yard but as soon as put it in the water and put a load on it,it stalls out. Bottom two carbs are differently not pushing gas and that means not pushing oil so I am not running it until I am sure something is getting threw. I will run Seafoam in the future.

I would read up on Seafoam and be quite cautious before using it. It has been known to deteriorate gaskets, gas lines, and other things if not properly used. It can also dry-out rings, if rings are worn and has deposits helping to hold compression up, Seafoam will remove the deposits and free up the ring thus loosing compression because of the deteriorated ring (one of my problems). Regardless, a deteriorated ring needs replacement.

I don’t think your problem is expensive if fixed now. As for oil not cycling, that’s not as big of an issue as having good water flow to cool the engine. It’s definitely a carb problem and I would rebuild it vs. flushing any “majic formula” through it. Trust me on this. I have tried stalling a carb rebuild and now I’m stuck rebuilding where as a carb kit could have avoided that.

Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. 

He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!

Posted

I would read up on Seafoam and be quite cautious before using it. It has been known to deteriorate gaskets, gas lines, and other things if not properly used. It can also dry-out rings, if rings are worn and has deposits helping to hold compression up, Seafoam will remove the deposits and free up the ring thus loosing compression because of the deteriorated ring (one of my problems). Regardless, a deteriorated ring needs replacement.

I don’t think your problem is expensive if fixed now. As for oil not cycling, that’s not as big of an issue as having good water flow to cool the engine. It’s definitely a carb problem and I would rebuild it vs. flushing any “majic formula” through it. Trust me on this. I have tried stalling a carb rebuild and now I’m stuck rebuilding where as a carb kit could have avoided that.

I am with you on that, I have downloaded the manuel now and looks like removing the bowl, cleaning jet, replacing gasket is all that there is too it, as long as you don't bother the idle air screw should be fine. Around $7 per carb for gaskets.

Anybody had problems doing this?

Posted

Sounds like $7 will have you fishing in a week. :touched:

Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. 

He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!

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