Hydraulic Trim & Tilt Pump

[Guest]

I spent all of last week getting the fuel drained out of my tanks.

Replaced it with fresh gas.

Then had to replace a bilge pump.

Took the boat out saturday to run it.

Everything was perfect, even caught a couple nice bass.

We made the 70 mile drive to Tenkiller in Oklahoma.

I missed the turn to Chicken Creek and ended up launching out of Snake Creek.

We motored out of the no wake area and I pointed the boat towards the dam.

Its about 6 miles down there, so I stopped at burnt cabin instead.

Its a good thing, bc the trim & tilt pump locked up.

I could trim up but not down.

So we had to limp it back to the ramp with a 150hp in shallow water drive.

The 4ft waves didnt make it any easier.

There was a point in time, when the waves crashed over the transom.

I actually thought to myself, Im not going to die out here today. LOL

Its the 4th Hydraulic Trim & Tilt Pump we've had replaced in 2 years.

WTH???

[fishinwrench]

Well, we know it's a 150.....

Ford, Chevy, or Dodge? and what year model?

[Guest]

Well, we know it's a 150.....

Ford, Chevy, or Dodge? and what year model?

1986 Mercury Black Max 150

also, the starter was replaced in april.

Ever since then, it draws the cranking battery dead after a week.

I have to unhook the starting cables to prevent the battery going slap dead every time.

[fishinwrench]

When you press the trim switch to the "down" position can you hear the pump motor hum, click or do anything.....or is it just dead?

On the other issue: Battery drawdown is either a blown diode in the rectifier, a bad key switch, or a damaged circuit somewhere in the wiring harness (specifically the Purple, or Red w/Purple stripe circuits).

Do the two large yellow wires coming from under the flywheel look like they have been hot ?

[Guest]

When you press the trim switch to the "down" position can you hear the pump motor hum, click or do anything.....or is it just dead?

Its was very windy on the lake, but it seemed to do nothing.

I didnt hear or feel a click in the switch.

Im going to test it out tonight and see if it makes any noise, but I think its dead.

[Guest]

On the other issue: Battery drawdown is either a blown diode in the rectifier, a bad key switch, or a damaged circuit somewhere in the wiring harness (specifically the Purple, or Red w/Purple stripe circuits).

Do the two large yellow wires coming from under the flywheel look like they have been hot ?

I havent checked under the hood, but I will do that too.

Thanks

[Ranger520vx]

If it will go up but won't go down the pump is good the same pump raises and lowers. Should just be a bad solenoid on the lower side. It will be mounted on the pump looks just like an old style Ford starter solenoid which by the way will work. Fixed my 83 Black Max years ago that way.

[fishinwrench]

If it will go up but won't go down the pump is good the same pump raises and lowers. Should just be a bad solenoid on the lower side. It will be mounted on the pump looks just like an old style Ford starter solenoid which by the way will work. Fixed my 83 Black Max years ago that way.

Um...wha ?

Pump...Cylinders..., trim motor..., harness..., relays..., switch.

There's some confusion of components going on there ^^.

At this point all we have eliminated is the trim motor.

[Ranger520vx]

More than likely it is the down solenoid on the pump. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the wire on the small post of the solenoid when the trim switch is in lower position if not you have bad switch or wire if there is 12 volts check for voltage on both large posts . One large post should be hot all the time . The one going to the motor should be hot when switch is in lower position if not the solenoid is bad.

[Ranger520vx]

Forgot to tell you there will be 2 solenoids on the pump they are identical one to raise one to lower so need to make sure you are checking the one that lowers the motor