Trolling with gas outboard vs trolling motor . . . ???

[wareaglecamo]

I have decided to give trolling a try in 2016.  I have done very little trolling in the past . . . actually, next to nothing.  I also want to be able to get down to very slow trolling speeds  (0.5 to 1.0 mph at times).  My main concern is the sound of a gas outboard running at idle speed vs the hum of a trolling motor.  Will the sound of a gas motor (Honda 5hp) reduce the number of bites as compared to the trolling motor? . . . let's say bottom-bouncing at a depth of 30 fow, 45 degree line angle to the water surface and 75-100 ft of line out . . . if I "strike out" while trolling, I'd like to at least know that it was due to technique and not noise . . . as aiways, thanks for your input . . . happy new year to everyone out there in the OAF world?

[LoweSTX175]

War Eagle - I troll with a 60 HP four stroke Mercury.  In the spring I have no issues with fish biting.  The main reason I use this motor instead of my trolling motor is because I have my higher end chart/graph mounted on the console.  I do have a few recommendations (take them however you want).  I use counter reels... and pretty much everyone I fish with uses them as well.  That helps to really get an accurate feel for where the bait is in the water.  If using bottom bouncers you are going to want to slow it down like you mentioned to about 1 MPH to make sure they are on the bottom correctly.  Other things to consider is trying out lead core line.  I just started that here recently.  It gets bait deeper into the water.  The biggest problem I have right now with trolling with the larger motor is when someone gets a hang up.  I have a bad tendency to stop the motor then go in reverse.... yes I have got line in my prop on several occasions.  Once again I don't think the sound really does much to the fish during the spring when the bite is on.  It has worked for me over the years.

[wareaglecamo]

thanks L175 . . . just ordered 2 Okuma Convector line-counter reels model CV-20DLX (left-handed) for $61.64 each from Amazon . . . best price I could find anywhere . . . 33 "rave" reviews on the Fish USA website averaging nearly 5 stars convinced me that it would be a great reel without breaking the bank . . . really looking forward to using them . . . I'm very glad to hear that using an outboard has no noticeable impact on fish count . . . gas outboard is the direction I was hoping to go

[LoweSTX175]

I have had great results trolling during the spring and early summer on various parts of the lake.  I like to troll the flats using 9 Flicker Shad at 150-175 with a counter reel.  That puts them down around 16-18 foot.  For some reason going bigger with them has produced both walleye and slab crappie.  Also the nice part about the flats is there typically isn't too much to get snagged on.  I've also heard the "whopper plopper" has been a good top water trolling lure if you want to get the white bass.  I've never used one so I have no comments.  I'm going to try a couple of them this spring.  With my outboard I can get between 1.5 to 2 MPH.  If I need to back it off more I throw out a drift sock to get some resistance.  I think you will like those counter reels for trolling because if you have several guys in the boat you can go to various depths to get a pattern.  I have mounted several rod holders on my boat.  Basically I kick back and travel with the contour of the lake using the map.

[Walleyedmike]

Good advice from LoweSTX175. That Honda isn't going to bother the fish at all. When bottom bouncing, kinda the rule of thumb is 1 oz of weight per 10 feet of water. So if your going to bounce in 30', 3oz bouncers would be recommended. I rarely bottom bounce any deeper that 25'. In the spring you'll find walleye in 10-15 feet of water. Actually, I start at those depths all spring and summer and then move out until I find the fish. Knowing what speed your running and being able to duplicate speed and depth is important when trolling. I also don't necessarily have my bouncers dragging on the bottom, I let line out until I feel the wire on the bouncer hit bottom and then reel up a turn. Then in a few seconds I drop the rod tip and check that I have contact with the bottom and adjust accordingly. Try crawler harnesses with different blade colors and slow death rigs to dial in what the fish want. I use a combination of bait casters with a flippin' switch and cheapo Cabelas line counters when bouncing. 

I generally use lead core for trolling crank baits usually after the 1st of July, however trolling cranks on lead in the spring can be killer for walleye and crappie. I'd recommend trolling bouncers first and become proficient with that and then move on to crankbaits. Don't be afraid to bounce a little faster than 1 mph, lmtout out was bouncing somewhat faster this summer and was hammering the walleye. Also if you hook up, turn around and troll right back through that spot until you stop getting bit. Good luck, I'm thinking you'll find success trolling.

WM 

[wareaglecamo]

wow . . . L175 and Wmike . . . priceless input . . . thank you guys so much!  I have been buying trolling merchandise on and off over the winter for the last 2 years in anticipation of trolling . . . but, I am embarrassed to admit, everything is still in its original packaging and never been opened . . . just never made the commitment . . . 2016 will be different!  I have some Mack's smile-blade slow death rigs and some Flicker Shads, just never used them:(  However, since taking the the big step by ordering the Okuma line-counter reels this week, I will follow through with the commitment this time . . . You guys have definitely got me "PUMPED".

[powerdive]

WEC, some good advice here. We have won walleye tourneys on Stockton, trolling bottom bouncers right under the boat in 11-12 feet of water with a noisy old 25hp gas motor....from a huge bathtub of a Lund boat, with bags out on both sides. Doesn't seem to bother the fish, so long as there's at least a ripple on the water.

For bouncing, 45 degrees is the point of diminishing returns--the absolute max limit for line angle, not the usual protocol. Ideally, we always wanted our lines to be as vertical as possible for best feel, quickest deployment, and fewest snags. Also, rarely should you drag your bouncer, but just drop the the rod tip to check/contact bottom and lift back to run just inches up. You can use a 2-oz bouncer to fish 30 feet, but you will have to let out a little more line due to increased water drag.

If you snag while trolling with a gas motor (cranks and bouncers), just quickly pull up your other lines and turn around toward the deep side, and motor back to the snag.  Get right on top of a bouncer and gently work your rod tip around till it pulls free. For cranks, continue on past the snag on the deep side, tighten the line, and it'll usually pop free in the opposite direction. Good luck!

[powerdive]

P.S. Keep your drags light when trolling!

[dennishoddy]

In our Oklahoma lakes, I troll with a 75hp merc.

Adjust depth with the type of lure. Of course you can only go so deep without lead line, etc.

The striper/hybrid/sand bass guides slap the water with fishing poles, paddles, or use aux trolling motors with special blades that only beat the water and not provide propulsion to simulate feeding frenzies. Motor noise does not appear to hinder the bite. Possibly enhance it?

[wareaglecamo]

powerdive and dennishoddy . . . thank you . . . interesting, informative and eye-opening for me . . . one thing for sure, after all the comments shared here, I definitely will be using my Honda 5hp with no thoughts of scaring the fish . . . for me, having now resolved the outboard vs trolling motor issue is a load off my mind . . . it also puts the pressure squarely on my shoulders . . . can't blame a no-fish day on the gas outboard . . .