Crippled Caddis

I'm here. Just been taking a sabbatical. How many people (perhaps even yourself) have you heard say something to the effect of "Man a 3 day weekend barely gives me time to start slowing down so I can fish"? We've all seen them. They roar into the parking area in a cloud of dust, jump out and start throwing on gear, grab their rod and charge into the water like a Carabou with a Grizzly behind him. After putting every fish within a quarter mile under a rock in abject terror the angler then churns the water to froth with fruitless casts. My preferred course is to slow down first. A half hour may not be enough and some may just need a few minutes to realign thought processes polluted by 6 months of city stresses. But however long it takes the fisherman will reap great rewards the remainder of his allotted time on the water if he makes the investment up front. By using the time necessary to re-tune his soul with natural rhythms to observe feeding activity and retrain the eyes to spot fish when that first great sigh of well-being and release wells up he is ready for the fray. It's something of a combination of what Al described but I just think of it as common sense. CC

The best thing you could do would be to book a half day with Mark Crawford. <http://marksflyshop.net/default.aspx> He's almost ridiculously inexpensive and knows the big fish by their first names. Tell him you want to get to know the water below Dam 3 and are willing to hike the RR track. Tom

Something of an afterthought but I must comment on the repair estimate. Dealers do NOT want to repair older motors for a variety of reasons. Not least of which is that they want to sell you a new motor. on which they will make a LOT more than helping keep your 'Old Faithful' serving you dutifully into a graceful old age. In addition they are more aware than most that the manufacturers do NOT support older motors with parts supply past @ 7 years in most cases. So they hit you with repair estimates intended to either steer you toward the purchase of a new motor (From them of course!) from which they will derive a quick and easy profit or an obscene profit margin should you be so attached to 'Old Faithful' as to go for it. For them it is a win/win deal. Either you will buy a new motor, you will go for the obscene profit of the estimate or you will take your old motor and get out of their life. The fly in the ointment from the dealers' perspective is that they are bound by dealer agreements to use only factory authorized parts in thier service department. So the real culprit in the case is the manufacturers who often refuse to support their products with parts past 7 years. Anyone contemplating the purchase of a new motor that they intend to use for many years should ask some very penetrating questions concerning long-term support before spending their hard-won dollars! All that said it should be recognized that the largest supplier of aftermarket marine parts and products in the world is Sierra Marine. While many auto supply stores can order from Sierra and you can get a Sierra parts catalog for yourself by logging onto their website and simply filling out the request form it should be widely recognize by outboard users that the NAPA dealerships ALL have Sierra parts available to them from their own warehouses. The part #s are listed in their NAPA parts books. You might well have to hold their feet to the fire to get them to admit it and co-operate but they DO have access! CC

<Just goes to show not many people know about those records... that's an easy feat... not to take away from Micheal's angling ability. Just like JD Dudley breaking 5 line class records, catch and release, last summer in AK on sockeye. They weren't that hard to break, esp since 3 of them were open.> Very true. Somewhere @ 30 year ago I discovered that the 1 Kg & 2 Kg tippet classes for white bass were open in the IGFA record books. So I filled them. With fish barely over the minimum. Mainly to see if I could endure the bureaucratic process but also to get the World Record Holder pins for my fishing hat. While the catching of a deserving world record is no small achievement it is the meeting of all bureaucratic standards and filling out all the paperwork that is difficult. <What is the url of the record site with all the records? Is there more than one official entity recording records?> The International Gamefish Association is the recognized standard bearer for maintaining world records. Google should find them handily. CC

Check your PMs.

They do have some value depending on what parts are still in good fettle AND if you can find anyone who needs THAT motor. For illustrative purposes only I recently bought one exactly like yours with a good powerhead on it for $10 to use as a parts donor for one I have. HTH, CC

As an observer of the Arkansas political spectrum I expect 'business as usual' will prevail. A token fine of far less than adequate proportions is my expectation. It is what I have expected ever since ADEQ, that had been dragging its' feet thru typical bureaucratic stonewalling, panicked and instituted an emergency suit in state court in order to get the ball in their (and their political bosses) court before TU could institute their own announced intent to sue in Federal District Court. Federal involvement was the very last thing that would be tolerable to the state political prostitutional hierarchy. IMO TU made a serious tactical error by announcing their intent prior to the fact. It should have been done in a stealth move to usurp the initiative . ADEQ is so politisized that it defies belief except for one accustomed to the institutionalized abuses of Arkansas politics that hark all the way back to the Reconstruction era following the War of Northern Aggression. CC

Here's one old cynic who will be surprised if that happens John. CC

I really like the new look, but the cotton-picking 'Reply Notification' feature still doesn't work.

Hmmmmm-----lesseee----. Try this: tie about 10' of chalkline onto the claw of your hammer and practice letting it straighten out on the 'backcast' before starting to drive the nail. When you are no longer getting frayed ends on the chalkline from 'popping the whip' you'll have the flycasting timing firmly fixed in mind and muscle memory.;o) (Hey! It might even work! )

Dang! You really know how to put a guy on the spot!;o) Rod lengths rise and fall at a rate that almost matches womens' hemlines. For decades the 'standard' was considered to be an 8' rod for a #6 line. With better rod designs, tapers and materials a #5 line will now do almost exactly the same job as a #6 would historically. 8' however is still the same length.;o) So if you held a gun to my head and demanded that I suggest a rod for a beginner that would match the greatest number of variables I would simply have to fudge just a bit and leave the choice of an 8'-9' rod for a #5 or #6 line up to you to be predicated on whether the majority of your fishing would be for Bass, panfish or Trout. Big waters where one has unlimited room overhead and to the rear for casting allow a 9' rod, an advantage under some fishing conditions whatever the species sought. A #6 line allows the caster to push out medium weight bassbugs or other heavy, bulky flies with advantage. The 5 wt. rod offers more feel and greater delicacy of presentation for smaller flies for both trout and panfish as well as being more convenient in tight quarters. As with life itself there are specific trade-offs involving preferences and what is best for the individual under his circumstances and personal choices. From the foregoing you may not be surprised to learn that I will soon be announcing that I will be running for political office.)

Anyone got any boatbuilding progress to report or has the cold weather halted your projects as it has my own? Also----I'm rereading Larry Dablemonts' book 'The Authentic American Johnboat' (C. 1978) and on pg. 13 he notes that there is an original Barnes built jon on display at the School of the Ozarks near Branson. Has anyone ever seen it? C

Tie 'em as Dano described. Fish 'em like Drew, Yakfly & River Runner said. The problem isn't with the fly. Stick with 'em 'til YOU 'get it'. You'll be glad you did! CC

<---says Dennis Steward, a member of the regulatory committee---They are high-powered---firearms---.> And once more an ignorant misstatement is sanctified by equally ignorant journalistic blessings. Both the committeeman and the journalist missed the whole point----they are not FIREarms! Sheesh! By just such factually destitute but editorially blessed declarations are deathless fallacies permanently ensconsed in public perception. <Air-powered rifles are nothing new. Lewis and Clark carried a hand pump-powered model on their 1804 expedition.> That much is true. I admit to surprise at encountering a grain of truth in an otherwise factually destitute piece of amatuerish journalism. <Long a popular tool for dispatching varmints, the guns have undergone recent refinements that make them suitable for big-game hunting.> Another woefully inaccurate statement. In the late 1700s Napoleon's army of European conquest was harrassed by marksman of the Austrian Army armed with air-powered 20 shot repeaters capable of accurate, deadly fire at ranges over 100 yards. So feared were the snipers so armed that one of his Generals issued an order that those who were captured were to be summarily executed on the grounds that (in modern parlance) they weren't 'playing fair'. <---Quackenbush says---"These rifles are quite powerful, but the belief that these would make a good---sniper weapon, that's just not true> In an effort, I'm sure, to contradict another journalistically preserved fallacy dating all the way back to the previously cited reference to the Austrian snipers that stated that airguns were silent. Simply stated---that is totally erroneous. The reason the French General thought airguns weren't 'fair' was that they failed to betray their location by a cloud of black-powder generated smoke. In point of fact they are VERY loud in the larger calibers suitable to killing either big game or French soldiers. The press preserved legend of silence continues yet despite reason, logic and all evidence to the contrary. Er---JJ? If you were baiting me----it worked! C

Ash Flat got hit and I heard a report that the Hardy fire station was damaged but it was Highland in between that was hit hardest by a wide margin. Radio was recommending that Hwy 62/412 passing thru Highland be detoured by going thru Cheokee Village. We were spared here in 'Greater Metropolitan Saddle' by @ 5 miles. Lot of debris in fields on either side of Hwy. 289 as I drove my wife to a therapy appmt. indicated that the storm had 'skipped' over us dropping debris from aloft. Reports suggest that it was a single massive storm that skipped across N. Arkansas last night in a path of random destruction of more than 100 miles. CC

Don't wanta be a wet blanket but you were catching Grass Pickeral. They get very active this time of year as the spawning urge hits them. Shoulda picked up a bunch immediately below Dam 3 too. CC

[Phil brought up a good point..an aging lake. I surmise the same thing is happening with Norfork lake being the first in the chain of dams and impoundments I do believe it's showing sides of dying---with constant development, the pumping of sewage and other chemicals from agriculture runoff have made it into a toxic soup.--The entire chain of lakes and rivers I am afraid are destined for the same thing unless something is done to slow or stop the progression. I know this sounds very pessimistic, but I do believe its happening.> Dano is correct IMO. Those who ignore the basic fact that reservoirs are settling basins insofar as their effect on streamflow is concerned are in for great disappointments. CC

<my dad has a Ben Franklin (I will have to check the model now that you have my interest). It is a pump with a single bolt action .22 caliber. It is fun to shoot, not very acturate though. The barrel and pump are all brass (except the wood ribbed pump handle)> By your description it is a 312 or early 342 model. Accuracy is normally pretty good with the Benjis unless someone (kids) tries to run something thru the soft brass barrels that ruins the rifling. On a gun of the age you are talking about it might simply be a decades old accumulation of dust and dirt. Back up to the the post that tells how to make a cleaning pull-thru with monofilament line and try cleaning it as recommended. Don't try to use aggressive firearms cleaners or you will surely melt the seals! The Goo-be-gone used VERY sparingly is the best thing I've found to date for airgun barrels. The other thing that inhibits accuracy with all domestically built airguns are the crude sights they are equipped with as standard equipment. Even young eyes can only do so much with very course open sights and aging eyes much less. Often replacing the rear sight with a peep will bring the real accuracy to the fore. Bryan & Assoc., mentioned in an earlier post, can supply the Benjamin 'Bar-O' rear sight that should fit your Dad' gun. My own preference for both Benjis and Sheridans however is the Williams peepsight made for them. On an older gun like we're discussing it would have to be drilled and tapped (a very simple job) but they are 'plug & play' on late models. A good sighting system and trying out different pellets until you discover what the gun WANTS is the key to extracting accuracy barring damaged rifling. CC

Nice! You're in the zone! Now go catch fish!;o) CC

Sho'nuff! Not recieving notices re: the airgun thread and the replies I made today took seemingly forever to get there.

brownieman wrote: <My old M-1 is all original, wooden stock and the original clip...pretty darn good shape considering the age and nothing on the gun has ever been refurbished...have considered refinishing the stock several times but have been hesitant to do so just because I like the idea of the old gun being in original condition.> Resist the urge to refinish---for several reasons. By so doing you steal the honest patina it has earned in serving you well over the years. Your heirs will value it more for the traces of your love it bears. Collectors abhor refinishes!;o) Better to protect it with a few coats of a hard Carnauba floor wax applied and buffed off with a soft cloth. My can of Johnson Floor Wax is older than many board members here, shows no sign of ever coming to an end and has maintained the finish (and value!) of many guns over many decades at this point. Any GOOD wax that doen't contain abrasives but IS heavy in Carnauba will serve, but watch out for automotive waxes which often DO contain abrasives.

[quote name='jjtroutbum'Any recommendations for ammo. I have been using field point pellets. Last batch I bought was Daisy No.722(Quick Sliver)?> Several. At short ranges (15 yds. or less) it's hard to beat target wadcutters for both accuracy and transmission of terminal energy. At greater distance a round nose field pellet such as the Crosman Premier (available at W-M in a round metal screw-top lid container as Crosman round nose field pellets altho I'm not at all sure about the box legend) or JSB Exact (only from specialty suppliers) are very hard to even approach, much less beat, on long-distance shots on game. The one thing to avoid are the pointed pellets which lose accuracy very quickly and also are subject to over-penetration. The one exception to that rule of thumb are the heavy Beeman Kodiaks which are something of a halfbreed between pointed and roundnose. In guns that can handle the weight the Kodiaks are one of the very best pest and game pellets even though I find Premiers a virtual standard for my own use. On the subject of over-penetration: Due to 'the nature of the beast' there is no excess energy to be wasted in taking game with pellet guns. Pellets that are travelling so fast that they pass all the way through game leaving only a 'hypodermic' in nature hole behind have failed to dump all their terminal energy into the organism, usually leaving it to escape to a hole or burrow to bleed to death in pain and be wasted for the table. The sign of ideal useage of terminal energy is to find the expanded pellet just under the skin on the side opposite the entry point. That means that every single foot pound of energy retained by the projectile was expended in bringing about a humane kill without causing undue pain or waste. One of my friends and frequent correspondants is the acknowledged expert in the nation concerning terminal ballistics of pellets on game and we have extensively compared notes over the years to arrive at the conclusions above. A double lung shot from the side anchors game almost as quickly as a brain-pan strike and is normally far more doable under actual field conditions as well in our combined experience. Over-penetration is the bane of the .177 caliber when combined with excessive speed. In addition to controlled penetration due to increased frontal area of .20 &.22 caliber pellets the heavier caliber is simply more efficient at extracting energy from the limited power produced by a pellet rifle. Simply by changing from a .177 caliber barrel to one of .22 on the identical powerplant the .22 will extract an additional 30% of energy from each shot. And that, my friends, is like free money! <All my guns get cleaned and oiled after use, but I don't know that I have ever reamed cleaned the barrel on this one. Guess I'll run a patch through there and see whats what. Ok---here's where I simply can't avoid butting heads with 'jdmidwest' in good concience. No offense intended in any fashion whatsoever JD! Airgun barrels are built of basically 2-3 materials, brass or bronze or a relatively soft steel. Since lead is far softer than any of the barrel materials used and possesses a high degree of lubricity due to the very nature of the metal itself simply shooting soft lead thru a good barrel will produce so little actual wear that good barrels can tolerate perhaps millions of rounds without additional attention. In addition most pellets leave the forming dies with a trace of the release lubricant used to be sure they don't stick in the die and jam the production run. Many of us old 'airgun nuts' also pre-lube our pellets by lightly soaking a thin foam pad with something like FP-10, Slick 50 or bore wax and 'sloshing' the pellets back and forth over the pad to add a little 'slick'um' to each shot and condition the barrel. Additional petroleum-based lubricant is to be avoided at all costs in the case of spring-piston guns and is possible only in the case of pnuematics and CO2 since the high air temp produced by the sudden compression of the air in a spring-pistn powered gun can ignite excess petroleum products and throw the shot off into Never-Never land! ONLY a wax product should be used in the case of Springers! In the case of my Walther LG-55 Turkish Army trainer cited in a post above the sheer number of shots that's been ran down the pipe must be astronomical yet the barrel looks, and shoots!, as good as the day it was packed for shipment at the Walther factory. Would that the exterior looked only half so good! I ONLY clean a barrel when I know it has suffered intrusion of dirt or accuracy mysteriously vanishes and can't be recovered by changing pellets or shooting technique. Even then I use ONLY Ballistol or Goo-be-gone applied very lightly to a soft patch and pulled thru from the breech a few times by a pullcord rather than a rod.(using heavy monofilament line,[30-40#] melt a big blob onto one end and cut the far end at a sharp angle so you can penetrate the patch--the blob will keep the patch on the string if you make it big enough---far easier on the barrel than any commercial offering) I follow that with dry patches until clean, then a lightly oiled patch followed by a dry patch to remove excess oil. That is ALL that's needed! Metal brushes are pure death on brass or bronze barrels and little better on steel---if you feel you just MUST use a brush use ONLY one made of nylon and even then wash and dry it between passes! NEVER use lead solvents or barrel-cleaning chemicals in airgun barrels! They simply aren't needed unless the barrel is so far gone that it needs to be replaced and even then the darn stuff seems to be able to migrate through solid metal to reach and rot rubber seals. If you find your old 1322 Medalist is too loud to promote neighborhood tranquility you can achieve several goals by ordering the 24" barrel (@ $12) from the Crosman Model 2260 rifle and the accessory shoulder stock (@ $15) from the Crosman website. The longer barrel will serve to both moderate the noise, increase velocity and improve accuracy while the shoulder stock makes a carbine out of it that make steady, accurate shots easier. IIRC it's all plug and play requiring only a few simple handtools to make the swaps. Should you find the 24" barrel too 'gawky' to suit your tastes they also have barrels in the 14" & 18" range though I can't recall the models they were used on---you're on your own looking them up.;o) HTH, Tom

[ quote name='brownieman' date='Jan 16 2008, 08:48 PM' post='55823'] good read CC, made me dig my old gun out, first one i had...can't find a date on it but I received it for Christmas probably around 1960, 62...somewhere in there. Only info i can find on the gun is on the barrel...Crossman Arms Co. Inc, Fairport N.Y. USA, M-1 Carbine BB Air Rifle. Are you familiar with the old un?bm Sho'nuff! The M-1 Carbine was, as you well know, an excellent visual reproduction of the U S Military original. At a short distance it's hard to tell the two apart. The M-1 was an outgrowth of the Crosman V-350. The V-350 was introduced in 1961 as Crosman's first outright head-butting with Daisy in the 'BB gun wars'. The model designation pretty much said it all: V (velocity)- 350 (350FPS). That was deliberately done to point out that Daisy had detuned their traditional offerings to sub 300 ft. per second velocity and that Crosman offered a more powerful option. The V-350 was a modern revival of the Quackenbush principle push-to-cock barrelled BB guns of the turn of the 19th/20th centuries. Known as 'Gats' in Europe where the design principle was commonly used in inexpensive air powered pistols it is the origin of the common term 'GAT' in reference to handguns. So successful was the V-350 (produced thru 1969) that in 1966 Crosman issued the basic gun action dressed out in US Army uniform as the M-1 Carbine. The 1st varient in wood stock version lasted only two years before being supplanted by the plastic-stocked version which enjoyed a run lasting from 1968-1976. Both models are far more collectable than the parent V-350, which seems almost beneath notice, with the rarer 1st varient wood-stocked model enjoying a clear preference with collectors. In the case of both varients however it is the presence or absence of the 'clip' that makes all the difference! If you still have your original clip "Do not pass Go, Do not Collect $200" go take the dang clip out and put it in the safe before the grandkid loses it!'o) Produced for only 2 years (1963-64) the V-300 pistol in the family is both less findable and more collectable, enjoying something of a premium in value as a direct result. The V-350 enjoyed one last 'Run for the Roses' from 1970-73 as the Model 3500 'Slidemaster' before falling off the production roster into obscurity. FWIW, to answer the perennial "What's it worth" enquiry; the last M-1 I sold was a plastic-stocked varient with original clip in pristine condition. I sold it 3-4 years ago to a man seeking one for a brother dying from a terminal disease who was suffering nostalgia pangs atop his feeling of inevitable mortality. I sold it for $125 IIRC but that was probably a bit below market value since I have a weakness in such instances. I haven't been keeping up with the collector market since even before that event so I can't well advise on current trends, but I doubt you can plan on sending the grandson thru university on the sale proceeds.;o) HTH, CC