GNSfishing

I'll second that.

Water and electronics never works out with positive results. So do you all when it starts to rain take your depth finders off and put them in the dry?? I have lowrance HDS units and 2 of them are flush mounts and the HDS10 is on a ram mount and the only time it is removed is when I park the boat in a public parking lot. Never had a water problem with any of them. My son had a HDS5 that did leak in a rain storm on Stockton lakes sent it to lowrance and they sent him a Refurbished unit which has worked perfect. All it cost him was postage to send the unit in. Of course you have to contact them prior to sending the unit in for repair.

I've caught several with the black markings in their fins and tail & on their head around the Cape Fair area from Thompson on up towards point 15. I don't have the slightest idea what it is. Becoming to sound like that its lake wide. Has this been notice in Beaver of Bull Shoals??

You know it is a simple maneuver and there are many boat operators either don't know or choose to ignore the rule. That is both boats turn right if it is possible if not shut down until it is clear to continue. Like I said before there is no center line on the water but if every boat operator drove their boat as if there was one we would not be having these problems on the water....

You got it that last sentence in your post is the bottom line. When you take the center stripe away they just run every which way and darn anyone else.. Have you ever meet a bunch of boats head on and wonder how to maneuver through the crowd without hitting head on another boat. They go every which way right and left till the only safe thing is to shut down and let them pass. I do the most of my fishing in the Cape Fair area and there are places that are narrow and it get hairy sometimes meeting other boats head on.. never knowing which way the other boats are going to turn they just don't know what to do or its like you said. Gosh the pleasure boat season has barely started and it a long haul till 1st of October.

I'll second that Fred at Ulrich is one of the best if not the best shop around this part of the country. They stock a lot of Evinrude and Motorguide parts also.

Well I'm one of those that put out my hard earned money for the equipment I have and I follow what the manufacture tells me what to use in the way of fuel, oil, and maintenance on my equipment. These manufacturers know their engines and what to use in fuels and additives to keep your equipment running as it should be and to keep the customer satisfied with their product so when you are ready you'll come back. They have spent many $$$$ on R&D on their product and recommend/tell you what to use to have a good experience with their product. All mechanics that wants/needs to continue working on the new equipment need to keep themselves updated with the knowledge to work on and service the latest equipment sold. The new outboard motors now days don't require the hammer & crescent wrench mechanics anymore and they are being left behind with new technology that these newer motors require to last and perform for a long time. These motors and oils along with the fuels being produced nowadays are the best ever for longevity if you follow their recommendations and if you don't then you'll pay the piper sooner or later. Then it is no laughing matter....

No dirty pins, the contacts were all bright and shiny and tight in the receptacle. Not discolored even from heat from the 2 wires burning into. So the plug did not cause the the problem. As far as a 12/24 charge switch my Z8 is 24 volt only no switch. I did have a 1983 350 V Ranger that had such switch and that boat and switch is 32 years old and still has the same switch that came on the boat with no problems to this date.. I would suspect a damaged power cable since it was about an inch from the plug. Vibration can cause the wires inside the jacket to break causing what is called a hot spot. I've worked in the offshore drilling industry as an electrician and vibration is a major problem with cables. I can't count the number of times that I've had to repair or replace cables due to internal damage; the outer jacket will show no sign of damage but when you cut it open you find several conductors or all of the broken. The cable is designed to be flexed but only for X number of times. An undersized cable will typically blister the entire length of the cable when over heated. A loose connection in the plug should show discoloration on the metal tabs and the plug itself would melt. Since the breaker did not trip that leads me back to the possibility of a damaged cable; broken conductors means less amp capacity which will cause a hot spot. I would check for excessive movement in the cable when the trolling motor is being deployed or when the main motor is running, especially in choppy water. Not sure if this is what happened but it sure fits the description for what I have experienced Now you could be on to something with a bad spot in the wires at the plug but the plug and wire are so short and confined within the the foot pedal well and that the wires are inside a sheath which contains the wires providing support with no room to flex from running in choppy or rough water. I bet that I haven't even unplugged it a dozen times or less since the boat was new. It is just now 5 years old, could've been a bad installation don't know that. I've come to the conclusion that with a motor that could draw up to 50 amps through a wires rated for 30 amp is asking for trouble in a prolonged run in high speed for any length of time and that's what I told the MotorGuide people on the phone.. Apparently the breakers were too small. I remember when Minn Kota first started selling trolling motors that they had a bad failure rate with the magnets breaking in the motor. I knew several guys that had that problem with the Minn Kota. Of course they all have shortcomings that can and do crop up at the most inopportune time. Thanks to everyone for their insights on the problem I have with my trolling motor. I am going to troubleshoot the amp draw when I get a AC/DC clamp on amp meter. Then I'll know what the real current draw is and size wire and breakers to their proper size and/or take it to Marine Repair for motor work if the board is the problem in the motor.

Yes there is a breaker at the batteries at least a 50 amp breaker and it is a 24 volt system with 2 #6 or 4 gauge wires ran to the front receptacle so the weakest link is going to break and that was the #10 gauge wire from the foot pedal to the plug. The replacement plug I got had a jumper for a 12/24 type system so had to remove it because the Pro 70 is a straight 24 volt. I did email MotorGuide about this and I just got off the phone with them about this problem. The only things they said was use a 50 amp breaker and there could be a loose connection or a circuit board in the motor that might cause a high amp draw if it was bad. Then said trolling motors are not for primary propulsion. Well I said I know that but the foot pedal has a switch which it can be put in a constant run position. They still held to the not for primary propulsion story. So even that option is there don't use it I guess. I would think that if there is a bad board in the motor head and if it is bad the motor should not run or it is going to quit soon... Bottom line they say it shouldn't have burnt the wires off but it did... Thanks for the replys and suggestions still searching for someone that experienced the same problem.. Oh I did call Marine Repair the first thing this morning with about the same results as MotorGuide..

Yes there is a breaker at the batteries. the wire size is a #6 or 4 gauge plenty big enough for a trolling motor.

Got a question about the wiring on a MotorGuide Pro 70 series 24 volt only trolling motor from the foot pedal to the receptacle plug on my front panel. This last Saturday was out fishing and decided to cross the lake using the trolling motor to discharge the batteries which most of the time they are short cycled and never get completely run down which can affect the battery life. After about 5 mins or so of running in (Rabbit) ;-) high speed, the wires burnt (melted) into about an inch from the plug. The smoke made me think that the boat was on fire, unplugged the trolling motor and it quit but it had burnt it completely off. Has anyone else experienced this problem?? I checked the screw terminals on what was left on the plug and they were tight so I am at a loss of what caused it other than too small of wire between the foot pedal and the plug which is 10 gauge and should be good for a 30 amp draw.....Called Marine repair but they did not have a real answer for me... Try to find a replacement 12/24/36 volt plug at 8:00 PM Saturday night. BPS had a 12/24 plug but would not fit the receptacle and it was priced at over $30.00 just for the plug. Did find a 12/24 plug and receptacle at Academy for $7.00 bucks each rated at 50 amps so wound up replacing both to get it back in service. So curiosity has got me to wondering if anyone else had this problem and if any one has found out why these wires burn if the trolling motor is ran at a constant high speed??? I have e-mailed MotorGuide also..

You had better keep a sharp look out on the James river arm anytime the lake rises because things that are on the bank wind up floating towards the channel due to the current. I saw a few larger floating trees and sticks Saturday below cape Fair, Piney has a few also with color in the water towards the back end.

Well what ever but that combination is solid and is not like using a spring for fishing line when setting the hook as mono and FC becomes when you have 50 to 75 ft of line out you don't have to have those show boat hook sets.. with the braid/NanoFil line to a mono/FC leader...

You might want to give the Albright knot a try. I use it 100% of the time, it works great for me no matter difference of diameters between the braid/NanoFil line verses leader diameters.

I bet if you will check Harbor Freight you'll find their cutters to match the Blue Point ones. Both are made in China the exception is the Harbor Freight ones are about 1/4th of the cost of Blue Point. Here is theirs.....the picture looks identical to the Blue Point ones. 11 in. Long Reach Diagonal Cutters 11 in. Long Reach Diagonal Cutters Pittsburgh - Item#37837 Cut out of the way cables and bolts with long reach bolt cutters Only: $6.49

That's right and don't mix them with other plastics either, the Zman plastics will melt other soft plastics. I glue them and place them right back in the same bag. Also I learned to not glue up no more ahead of time that what I might us on a trip. The salt in them will rust the hooks and they will break with very little pressure.

I'll have to say that after 65 years of fishing and I have tried and used several brands and styles of reels. The Lew's reels now days are the best reels for the buck. I use the Lew's Tournament Pro TS1SH and TP1SH there not much difference between those 2 reels both are excellent. Of course they make other reels above and below those 2 models but I've found that those 2 do all I need in a reel. I also use the Lew's TS200H & TS300H in their spinning reels and have found the same results with those also.

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I'd sure take a look at the Lawrence elite 7 chirp unit. A good full featured unit with chirp technology.

You should be able to find what you can use either in Bass Pro in Springfield, MO. or Walmart usually will have jigs that will work just fine. Oh also you will need some Loctite Super glue the gel type is easier to use. Other brands of super glue just don't like the plastic used in the Zero or Zman 5" worms. Good luck you will have a great catching time with the Ned/Varmint rig. We like to use light spinning gear with 6# line of your choice....

I use Stren clear blue braid on my baitcasters and NanoFil on my spinning reels 100% of the time. Tieing a leader on has become second nature to me. I use Yo-Zuri Pink 100% fluorocarbon leader line across the board on all of my spinning and bait casters. I have found that leader line is better to use instead of just regular spools of line. I just compensate for the lack of stretch with the drag settings on the reel and of course you need to use a good quality reel with good drag settings. I don't have to do a 180 deg monster rotating hook set like the Fluorocarbon and Mono line users do. You'll be surprised how much stretch there is in 50 Ft of Fluorocarbon or Mono line as compared to braid and/or NanoFil line. Brand & type of line usage is a personal preference and whatever works for you. I've tried them all looking for what works for me....

This needs to be addressed to all boaters not just bass boat operators. You'll find a lot of boat operators do not know how to maneuver their boat when meeting another boat head on. There's no center stripe on the water but in that book it will tell you and I'll bet that at least 30% or more operators don't know what both operators are to do in this case. That is why I believe that young and old operators be licensed to operate a boat. At least they will be exposed to the laws and rules to operate a boat in all states.

That was their fix for the prop becoming loose after running it a few times. The torque spec to seat the rear bushing is 100 ft/lbs on the tempest plus II props with that newer bushing..

Just attach the new one to the old cable and pull the new one through the sleeve. That's the way I pulled the new cable on my Motorguide trolling motor.

The hard part is snaking through the sleeve containing the wires. Then adjusting the pedal positions to your liking with the gear rack.