fishinwrench

Holy Crap, 30 feet from you, and then there was nothing to be found ? Did it leave a hole ? Myself and a buddy were at a MDC lake in montgomery county (many years ago) and three BIG objects aparently fell from the sky into the 15 acre lake. Made a hell of a splash and all three hit the water at the same time, two fairly close to each other and one on the opposite side of the lake. Like you the first thing we did was look up....but there was no planes or anything. We've told that story a dozen times and everyone accuses us of being really stoned......but we weren't. There's definately 3 things on the bottom of Marshall Diggs lake, each one the size of a V8 engine block. I would say "meteor"...but 3 OF THEM AT THE SAME TIME ? No Way!

Cricket, That one looks pretty sweet, more a leech imitation though. For imitating guts you want something more like this... You can dead drift it under a bobber if you want, but the most productive and FUN way is to sight fish it. Hook: mustad 3399 12-14 Thread: 6/0 uni-thread (white or red) Weight: 7 turns of .020 lead wire Body: sheepskin chamois from Bob Gaston (only one I know of that has the right stuff)

The Chamois fly (tied about 2 sizes larger than the ones you can buy at the flyshops) is about the best "gut fly" there is.

I have seen it printed from two different sources, that it takes 18 gallons of water to produce 1 gal. of ethanol. See what I mean about conflicting info? I don't know what to believe.

At one time I thought I had a good understanding of it, but now I'm not sure. I keep getting conflicting information that personally doesn't compute in my brain. LOL I was first taught (or at least it is what I thought I was taught) that higher octane fuel burned faster than low octane fuel. Then I was corrected and taught (by someone that really should know) that it was the other way around...(low burns faster than high) which made more sense when I thought about it. But then for awhile there is was a conflicting thing happening: Alcohol was being added to fuel to "boost"? the octane. But wait a second here....alcohol burns slower than gasoline, and any vapor particles in the combustion chamber that do not burn still serve to take up space within the combustion chamber which would have to....increase compression, right ? So which is going to give you more power per stroke of the piston, slow burning fuel that may not burn completely out... Or fuel with a faster flashpoint that burns completely WHILE LESS COMPRESSED ? Which could truly be considered "more efficient" in a 2 stroke engine ? ......I really don't know. And neither did my instructors. They just stated that running higher octane (slower burning) fuel in a 2 stroke, in which the burn has already been slowed down considerably by the addition of OIL to it, was not recommended. Not that it would do any harm whatsoever...but that it simply "was not recommended". I remain totally confused and clueless to the chemical qualities of the "fuel" that we get at the pumps these days. And unless I'm forced to, I have no desire to try and understand it any more clearly than I do. I have read all the BS on the internet that attempts to describe and explain it...but there are many little details that just don't jive... so I just work with the understanding that I have and leave it at that.

15" on Browns....and boy are they scarce.

Everyone is into adding Stabil and Sea-foam to their fuel, all the time, and I'm sure the manufacturers are loving you for it, but according to MMI (Marine Mechanics Institute) where I get my training, it is entirely pointless, and sometimes detrimental. I don't want to get into a huge fuel additive debate (stabil, sea-foam, octane enhancer, heet, ect.) but I will brief you on how fuel stabilizer works, and what I have been taught. First off, many additives are heavy in alcohol and even though most hoses,seals, and pump diaphrams nowadays are resistant to alcohol...it still is not recommended if other options exist. Stabil increases fuel life by forming a barrier on top of a fuel storage tank, isolating the fuel from the environment and sacrificing itself to evaporation which preserves the fuel below (for a while)....like a floating "seal". Once all the stabil evaporates...then the fuel below is once again exposed to the outside air. Fuel stabilizers can only do their job if the fuel tank is sitting still (not being shaken up). Mixing Stabil into fuel that you are planning on using up within the next few weeks does absolutely nothing except cost you money. And it has been known to throw off oxygen sensor input, confusing ECM's of EFI/DFI engines. IOW: additives can make the engine run rich by fooling the ECM into thinking it needs to dump more fuel.

Gavin, That only flys if it has never been registered. If there IS a title floating around out there somewhere, it is like pulling teeth. The WP "inspection" consists of him looking at the model/serial numbers. Your county Sheriff (supposably) can do it too if a WP officer is too far away, which they always are. Good Luck ! In my experience there is ALWAYS a title on record....somewhere. The crap that they will run you through over a few bucks worth of taxes is more than I can stomach. And the folks at DMV seem to get a real kick out of it.

Cricket, First off let me say, Sorry about your Papaw I can help you with restoring the little Johnnyrude but you will need a title if you plan to register and use it....And that will undoubtedly be a real PIA. The state DMV will not give you any cooperation or even tips as to the best way to clear it up. All they want is the matching papers and they will just treat you like you are wasting their time if you don't have it. That means "probate" if the motor has ever been registered before / or filing for a lost title if it hasn't... and often times it just isn't worth it. When I come across restorable old motors without titles I usually get them running, clean them up and auction them off on Ebay. There are a couple of groups (clubs) up in Wisconsin/Minnestota that pay top dollar for motors in that year/hp class.....as long as ALL the parts are there. If you PM me the Model number I can tell you (for sure) what year and model it is. Later, Wrench

Beautiful Brown. That's a shame about the Gig Scar.... looks like he lived through it ok though.

She's sold. Thanks

4 to 6 WEEKS ? Considering the cost, and reputation of Sage I find that slightly....No, Entirely unacceptable. I've had similar dealings with St.Croix, 3 different times within the last 4-5 years and have always gotten my replacement between 6-8 working days from the date I sent it off.

Z, The JD is a "mini-jig" tied with a short tuft of green (moss colored) marabou for a tail, and a matching chenille body on a 1/80 or 1/100 jighead painted John Deere green with a yellow eye. There's a discription and pic here www.geocities.com/kcmtfa/Troutline/AUG_2006_TROUTLINE.pdf

For comparison I have both 2 and 4 piece St.C LU's in 5 and 6 wt's.(same length) I've never had any of them come unbuttoned, and I definately appreciate the shorter rod tubes. But the 2pc. rods feel better in the hand and they take a lighter reel to balance them out, which means the overall weight is less. We're talking less than 1/4 oz. but it is noticable. Higher end rods are a different story I'm sure, If you are buying low or mid-priced rods...go with 2pc. But for high end sticks I'd go with the 3 or4 pc. I would personally never consider a 5 or 6 pc. rod though, that's just crazy

wanna trade?

Yeah that's a slab! The amazing thing is....it looks like it might be a male ?

I wonder if the reason carp and buffalo are able to pull so hard is simply a result of the positioning of their mouth. You pretty much have to roll them "belly up" to turn them around. Any fish hooked in front of, and below their center of mass probably has a leverage advantage over a fish hooked in front of, and above their lateral line, like most gamefish are hooked. If you've ever foul hooked a fish just behind the pectoral fin you know they instantly gain about 3 pounds...untill you see what's happened. If you hooked a smallie, or a Wiper on the bottom of his chin...... he would probably pull like a carp of the same size.

The Ranger just isn't getting used anymore and registration is due, so I think I'm ready to sell it and get a 18ft. Aluminum rig with less motor. It's a '94 Ranger 364V Comanche, RangerTrail single axle trailer, 94 Mariner MagIII 150 (23p Predator prop), Minn Kota Maxum 74lb.thrust hand op. 24v trolling motor w/ bigfoot kicker and switch, Lowrance in-dash flasher, Lowrance X55 LCR on bow, 2 Pro-pole pedestals, Ranger boat cover, fairly low hours and garage kept 7500.00 OBO If anyone has any questions or wants more detailed pics hit me with a PM.

I figured they would have an extra 40 feet of running line....those Carp can rip guides off with a backing knot, and spool ya

The Ranger just isn't getting used anymore and registration is due, so I think I'm ready to sell it and get a 18ft. Aluminum rig with less motor. It's a '94 Ranger 364V Comanche, single axle trailer, and Mariner Mag. 150 (23p Predator), Minn Kota Max 74lb.thrust hand op. trolling motor w/ bigfoot kicker and switch. 7500.00 OBO If anyone has any questions or wants more pics hit me with a PM. Edit: OOOPS ! posted in the wrong topic catagory

According to the average.....my best guess is June 17 2009

Well for starters, blowing the fuel out with an air compressior isn't going to empty the tank any faster or more efficiently than syphoning it out the old fashioned (safer) way. Besides, unless you left the inlet cap on and blew through the vent hose it wouldn't work very well anyway. EFI/DFI engines with pressurized fuel systems are designed to contain a relatively small amount of pressurized fuel with appropriate seals, fittings and vapor separators suited for the pressure involved. Advising someone with unknown mechanical ability to pressurize their 12 to 25 gal. fuel tank without regard to how well the fuel is contained in THEIR particular boat is just not good advice ...IN MY OPINION. Someone could end up with raw fuel in their face or a few gallons in the bilge of their boat from a bad clamp or alcohol affected hose. And raw fuel in the bilge of a bassboat is (as you say) "a bomb waiting for ignition". I'm sure your intentions were to be helpful, and I apologize if I insulted you in some way, but I felt obligated to point out that people sometimes get hurt bad doing dung like that. I can introduce you to a few that lived through it if you actually need "proof". As far as "alcohol causing your plugs to run lean for their heat range"... I'm not even gonna touch that

I'm not into snagging, but I get to hear alot of snagging talk . Osceola gets talked about more, nobody I know spends much time around Talley bend...or if they do they don't talk about it

Soft hackles are a good fly to carry, and try, anywhere trout swim. These two patterns in size 16-18 do well at Bennett during this time of year. Copper-rear hares ear: IceDub soft hackle in lt.olive

With all due respect, This won't work. Onboard tanks are (or better be) vented, and some are equipped with anti-syphon valves....Besides, pressurizing fuel that way is kinda dangerous. Not so.