MrGiggles

3M 90 or Super 77. Both will work, but I like 90 more for carpet, it's a lot stringier than 77. Cut your piece, spray both sides, wait till it dries enough for it to not stick to your fingers, and slap them together.

I found a few smaller ones checking river channels, but nothing big like I had been fishing before we got the bad weather. I found the one in the photos totally by accident, was motoring around a cove trying to see how thick the ice was, and ran across it. Didn't think you'd find them back there when the water is this cold.

Sync was set pretty good. Quick adjustment to the linkage got the idle down. Just for shits I removed the carb linkage and tried opening each carb one at a time. They all responded pretty much the same, speeding up slightly and eventually choking out if you went too far. Plugs are looking better, bottom is still just a touch cleaner, they're oily because it's essentially running a 25:1 oil mix, the oil system should be bled, so I can fill it up with straight gas. Not sure if it was the Boyeson reeds, or just the removal of a big vacuum leak from the crank seal, but it picked up 2mph on the top end as well. I disconnected the electric pump, the mechanical pump seems to lose prime, think the plastic check valves may leak, need to prime it up if it sits for more than 30 minutes. Those are NLA so I'm not sure what to do about that. Wonder if a Briggs impulse pump would work. I'll keep an eye out for a set of carbs on Ebay, until I find a decent deal it runs well enough as is. I did try counting turns on the pilot air screws, they're so long winded that it's hard to keep count, and worn enough that the screwdriver just wants to slip out, then you're back at square one. They do all bottom out with the screws oriented differently (meaning, one may have the slot horizontal, the other vertical, and the other in between), but that may very well be just variance in the way those needles are manufacturered. I guess I could take one needle and try it in every carb.

You know it's a good one when the depth finder gets confused and thinks they're the bottom.

After running it for a good long while tonight, it is definitely better, but still not 100%. I'm going to pull the plugs in the morning, see what they look like. It was also idling high, higher than it ever has, I'm going to check the sync again, it never occurred to me until now that since I had the reed plates and everything apart things may not have gone back in the exact same place. Watching videos on Youtube of these motors, half run perfectly smooth, and the rest are lumpy and rough like mine.

Got out today. Quite a few boats out, most ramps are clear now, very little ice left, what is there is really slushy and easily broken. Wind was brutal and I didn't really do much main lake fishing. I eventually stumbled across a school of shad back in a cove and found some fish in it. Mostly short crappie, but a couple keepers and one walleye. No luck with the spoon today, 1/8 oz pink jig and a zoom tiny fluke is what they seemed to prefer.

I saw a video on Facebook of a guy that was busting ice with the boat, but he got out there. Think he had a slip, all the ramps are probably still iced in.

I played the heck out of Reel Fishing on the Dreamcast. Even had the fishing reel controller. Split my lip with it once during a particularly rowdy hookset.

I started seeing the ponds forming holes yesterday. The snow pack is a great insulator. There will likely be ice in shaded coves for a long time, but I don't think it will take long for the main lake to break up.

I believe the wobbly one is bent along the outer portion, not the actual needle, but it's really hard to tell. I order a set and see what happens. I figured someone got between the needle and the carb plate with a screwdriver while trying to adjust them through the airbox, you can't see anything through the little holes that they give you. Looking down into the hole, it looks like the tapered seats are fine, but without having anything to compare them too, I don't know. I've got it all together and will give it a rip when the ice melts, see what it does after it's had a good run. Looks like finding another set of carbs may be a dubious task, there's a couple sets on Ebay for $300, and they look like they've been fished out of the bottom of a lake.

There was the 400 SBC, and the 383, although that was not a factory engine. They're starting to fall out of favor now, with the LS craze. Hard to beat a $300 junkyard 5.3 that will make 500+hp with an Ebay turbo and pump gas.

One of them is bent a little bit. Would there be a visible indent around the needle if that were the case? I've been watching Ebay for a set of DT85 carbs, those and the intakes are the only big difference between the 85 and 75. Haven't seen any for a decent price though, and I may not get anything that's better than what I have. There is a whole DT85 in Springfield, but the guy wants way too much for it, and he won't part it out.

I know it. I back the idle screws out until it starts to run crappy, and then give them 1/4-1/2 turn in. They're air screws, backwards compared to many. I think the thing to do now is get it out on the water and run it, get it cleaned out, and start over with adjustments. I think it is loaded up big time from running on premix and injected oil, continuing to run it in the barrel is only making it worse. Compression is 125# on all three, before and after the teardown.

Its a pain to adjust. You remove a rubber plug and there's a tiny flathead screw inside. I've considered adjusting it, but with the initial timing being about where it should be, I don't think it's causing the issue. It has idle air jets, I've played with them quite a bit, I think they're set pretty close. It was actually running pretty well tonight, but Im not totally sure it is hitting on #3, so I pulled the lower plug wire, evidently there was some gas in the lower cowl, which quickly went up in flames. I packed it full of snow and called it quits after that. The fire got some of the wire loom but I don't think it's too bad. If I had insurance I may have just pushed it outside and let it burn.

The fuel is probably a month old. I've been fishing with this motor all year, it's probably had over 100 gallons ran through it. It has what Suzuki calls a throttle valve switch. I replaced it a while ago and adjusted it according to the manual. From what I understand, it determines the point where the CDI starts to advance the timing when the throttle is opened.

Thanks Wrench. I went through the carbs again and set the floats a little more conservatively. They were pretty high before, the service manual is a little ambiguous. Oil pump output is well within spec. I pulled the fuel pump and ran it with my finger in the port. No gas coming out of it. It is still smoking like crazy and loading up. Thinking I might just put it all the way together and run the heck out of it for an afternoon after the ice melts, and regroup.

From what I'm seeing on Facebook, that appears to be the case.

I played around with it some more. Timing is perfect, but it's not adjustable anyway. There is no big difference between the brightness of the timing light of all cylinders. I swapped in a cleaner set of plugs and it was running much better initially, then starting acting up as it ran longer. I'm starting to wonder if it isn't getting too much oil, all the plugs are oily, with oil wicking up the threads, and you can see the smoke in the videos I recorded. It's got premix in the tank and the oil injection is hooked up as well, although I'm not sure if it is working since I haven't bled it. Acting up. Running better.

Craigslist is more or less a ghost town since they started charging for ads. Facebook is where it's at now, despite how awful it is. Change your location to Minneapolis and have at it. Much like how Tracker and Lowe are king in this area because they are made here, Lunds are made in Minnesota and have a much higher market share up there.

Forgot to mention, I put new diaphragms in the pump last summer. It does run off #3. Would putting a vacuum gauge on the crankcase balance ports tell you anything meaningful about the crank sealing rings? I'm going to play with the TVS as well, that is what controls the timing curve.

I could get it to you if you've got an opening. Ain't that far. I can give #3 a shot of brake cleaner. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow. I'll have to dig out the timing light, spark on #3 is identical to 1 and 2, and I have tested the whole ignition system before.

It's an email that I got this morning. They didn't hack anything, just using scare tactics. They want $1250 or the equivalent in Bitcoin. I'll take the humiliation.

A guy can't even rub one out without being extorted.

Well I got a hose thawed out and got it running in a barrel. It doesn't really seem to run any differently. It's not lean sneezing like before, but ocassionally "putts" through the exhaust and stalls. Smells super rich, smokes like crazy, if I lean out the idle air screws that it starts to putt more and runs worse. Hitting the choke causes it to stall. Stuffing a rag in #3 seems to make no difference. Pulling the #3 plug doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. If it does, it is so slight that it's hardly discernible. On the middle and top cylinder it's a lot more obvious.