Wayne SW/MO

I fooled around with different ways of securing the line, but I think a small cleat is probably the best bet. I generally maneuver some to set up for anchoring so I never need anything fast. My favorite use is to swing around opposite a tailout hole and drop the anchor on the shallow gravel that seems to always be present on the opposite side.

I hate to hear it, but I knew it was inevitable.

Another website, especially from a business that tends to cater to more fly fishermen will be a big help to many I'm sure.

I've always found sinking lines challenging to cast because of their different tapers. I would question the need for a 10 wt line on a Clearwater which isn't a fast rod. I suspect your problems are in the taper you have. You don't say if your problems are on grass or on the water.

If you tie a loose loop around the hand hold of the dumbell you'll get more resistance from it. Basically you want the blunt end of it to drag. The problem I see with having the rigging behind you is that you'll be late in knowing something has gone wrong, such as dropping un-noticed. It's also virtually impossible to reach it behind all the gear.

I would think intermediate would be more middle of the road, especially considering that Cabelas is trying to be period specific. Graphite's were just emerging 50 years ago and they wern't fast. SA's GPX is sized a half weight larger and you might like it.

I've used an anchor system for years that consists of a rope loop that I fasten to the front handle. I use a caribiner for a pulley and run my 3/16 rope through it to a 3# dumbell, available cheap at Walmart. If you tie a loose loop around the dumbell it will drag with the broad front digging into the gravel. I run my anchor from the front so I know where it is at all times and I can also move forward if necessary to cut it loose with a minimum of loss. I generally turn my yak or my canoe around and into shallow water to anchor so I can drop a minimum of rope. If you decide to put anything else on your yak that requires a firmer support than pop rivets, get some well nuts.

Another Falcon fan, I have 2 Low Riders that I'm very fond of. My only gripe is that the handles are too long, but it only takes a few minutes to shorten them.

Paco Pad is the way to go. Get a 2" for gravel. You roll it up and put it anywhere, it's waterproof.

Try what Dan suggest and if necessary roll cast the first 20-30 feet.

I can think of numerous stretches of what were once reasonably deep holes that are now long flat bottom shallow stretches devoid of much cover. The logs and boulders have been covered by gravel. It's not consistent on every river or even parts of some rivers, but it is a trend that has been on going in my view.

Braid is strong, but short on shock strength. That is why the light braids seem weaker then the same breaking strength in mono's. When you hit the wall on braid there is no wiggle room, they break, but mono stretches some giving you a little leeway. A leader does two things for me, saves my braid which can last for years and gives me a little bit of shock absorption.

Personally my thoughts are that they should consider them at risk in all flowing waters. The risk isn't from their numbers, but from the degradation of their habitat. That isn't going to change so they should probably focus on keeping the numbers as high as reasonably possible to keep ahead of the obvious future risks. I don't see a need for anything special for the Neosho, other than banning any introduction of other strains.

I use P-Line Premium in 6# or 8#, 6# on spinning and 8# on my baitcasters. I normally carry baitcasters, with a spinning rod thrown in sometimes. I like Tuf XP in 4-15 for topwater however.

Yup.

I have always like a short rod for walking the dog and jerkbaits. 5 1/2' is about right I think.

I suspect you won't get away with because once you have a limit possessed holding another one is possessing it.

This might be your best bet. Many modern graphite rods can handle a heavier line and if it were me this is the one I would start with.

I've looked at the Coosa, but for the life of me I can't see the extra cost above the tried and true Tarpon.

Actually there is more than just what is below the waterline. Much of the stability is in the tumblehome and the shape of the hull just above the waterline. The secondary stability is pretty much dependent on the design of the hull above the waterline.

Not a lot of water and no public access.

Same thing.

Yes you would need to license it, unless they have changed recently.

Missouri Smallmouth Alliance was offering a free copy with a years dues. I can't seem to get on the site to confirm. Al do you know if they are still making the offer?

If you're going for one rod, go big. A higher weight rod won't hurt the fight as much as many think, but a rod too light in a wind can make for a sour day. I like 7's and 8's, but many rods cross the line up or down so it really depends on the individual rod.